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05 R6 Resurrection

25K views 120 replies 44 participants last post by  Starbuck 
#1 ·
Hello nice people! I bought a bike-in-a-box and hope to accomplish the impossible task of putting the puzzle back together. I have no idea what I'm doing but armed with a Haynes manual, some parts diagrams and the interwebs...I'm hoping to have something to ride by 3015! Comments and tips are always welcome. There will be many more pictures uploaded later... :D
 
#3 ·
101 year build? This is going to be awesome sauce!!!!!
 
#5 ·
Your off to a rocky start already brutha.
 
#12 · (Edited)
So, if I’m the girl and I put the cases in the dishwasher…who yells at me?



Yes I degreased them first…I mean, that would be gross.


Old case.



It looks like…metal.



I’d like to invite all of you over for dinner. What are we having? Bearing soup.



Who needs a lift? The book just said to take all the weight off the suspension. Safe? Yeah, Mom, I was perfectly safe. See how those tires were totally keeping the bike from falling?





 
#13 · (Edited)
Ugh. That’s so DIRTY! Where’s my Mr. Clean?



So much better! Yes, I’ve quietly watched the debate over suspension/ride dynamics for years. I have installed the lowering link, I’m not racing the bike…deal with it. My stripper shoes just didn’t give me enough purchase on the ground so I needed my baby lower.



That stand actually works pretty well. Initially it was a bit of a pain in the ass to get perfect but it works. I have NOT sat atop the bike on the stand though as I don’t trust it that far yet.










To torque down those sprocket (gear?) nuts, I can only imagine how…interesting…it must have looked as I sat astride the tire and grunted it out. I know I had a good reason I didn’t torque them with the tire mounted but heck if I remember what that was.

 
#14 · (Edited)
This is what I had to work with...



BEST. 3D PUZZLE. EVER. Hopefully I assembled it correctly!





Here is my pride and joy, the output transmission shaft. I think. I had so much fun reassembling it (and also the input shaft). Who came up with these names? Naughty! Anyway, Molybdenum oil is used to make it gooey for lubrication and whatnot. You make the molybdenum oil (from now on we shall call it molybdenum juice) out of the grease and engine oil. I was super excited to learn that.



Old case again.



Annnnnnnnd some damage. That hole makes it breathe better, right?





“New” top end. All cleaned up and oiled. This was my first real dumbass moment. I mean, aside from buying the bike in the first place. I thought I could keep the cases from rusting by coating them lovingly in oil. Then I realized they were aluminum. Shhhh…don’t tell anyone.

 
#15 · (Edited)
This is the new bearing that goes in the housing for the input transmission shaft, where the clutch is. Boiling the old bearing (I don’t have a knife-edge bearing puller or whatever they were talking about in the ‘help’ section of the book), is a good way to extract the steel bearing from the aluminum housing as the aluminum will expand well before the steel will. Basically. Very basically. Heh. I actually had two of these from both cases but I wanted the older housing as it didn’t look like someone had extracted it with Channellocks. I boiled the old one and froze the second and freezing actually worked better. You still have to pound the shit (can I say shit?) out of the shaft with a rubber mallet but it did work without causing harm to the components. I then used the bearing press I bought when I replaced my car’s rear wheel bearing to press the bearing in. Freezing the new bearing is also a great way to ease the pressing process but I’m sure you guys know that.





Here’s the trial run of the input shaft in the case. I was also testing the old bearing (the one pressed into the back of the case) because I couldn’t think of how to get that bearing out except with a bearing puller/hammer…thing. Whatever that is called. I don’t have that tool either. XD I was lucky the old bearing is still good so I saturated it with moly juice and Bob’s your uncle.



Next we have the case with input trans and shift drum. I put the input shaft in and was like…what’s that hole next to it for? Ha. It was an ‘Oh, perhaps I will need that drum thing later.’ I probably had some Redbull after that to regain focus.







Look! The selectors! That was a fine amount of squinting at diagrams to get the alignment correct too. Then there was the, ‘Left side of the engine, what? Y marks?’ I think it was getting late.




Finally, pressed in.







More later! (I’m at work…SHHHHH!)
 
#28 ·
you must be a mechanic by trade, most of us are pretty confident with our wrenching abilities, and some can check and adjust valve clearences, but building a engine from a bucket of parts, without knowing what parts your looking at?

Fcuking kuudos to you.

i sure as shit would not have taken that project on.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Ha. You guys are so funny (OMG Ryan, ROFL).

I’m not a mechanic , I’m just interested in learning how to work on my own stuff. I undertook this project because I really wanted to ride again and I needed something to occupy myself after my BF and I broke up (TMI sorry). That and I beat Last of Us (effin’ awesome!) a while back and haven’t wanted to get into a new video game. Anyway, let’s can the talky-talky and get back to the meat and potatoes! Yeah!

Dirty…



Clean.



That valve cover was easy-peasy.



I think I needed a shot of vodka for this next task though.



If you’re going to dive headlong into crazy like I did, I highly recommend a neat work area. I didn’t want to eff anything up at this point so I made the engines mirror each other. Sometimes I need things explained to me in Blonde and the diagrams written in crayon. Feel me? It’s the KISS principle.





 
#30 · (Edited)
Oil pan (and the other half of the trans). I think the parts diagrams and the book call them different things. There were several of those parts which led to much furious page-turning. I’ll try to find the names and edit the post later.



Here was the first snag. The motor refused to find Top Dead Center. I marked the hell out of the gears and chain even more than this but I got sick of taking pictures. I put little ‘v’ marks on the actual chain itself too to make sure the pokey gear thingie would go back in the right link.



Oh hey, I guess I did snap one.



Next are pics I referred to later upon reassembly. This guy should have changed his oil before he blew the gears out. Don’t worry baby, I’ll love you more than he did!










I think it took me literally an hour and a half to undo all these bolts, I was so careful. The book says camshafts are very fragile and have their feelings hurt easily. After seeing how much a replacement camshaft cost, I was very cognizant of their ‘issues.’ To keep up with how far I’d turned each bolt, I marked on one flat with the trusty paint pen, then made sure all were turned exactly the same amount each time. Tedious, I know. I think I remember the book saying when disassembling, loosen the holder covering the pushy things (sorry guys) actively pressing down on the valve…hat… LAST. I guess because this would make room for the shaft over the pressured valve when you loosen it. Naturally upon reassembly, you would do the opposite to support the pushy thing…(Googles: [DO NOT GOOGLE “what is the pushy thing on a camshaft called” WHEN SOMEONE WHO MIGHT CARE IS AROUND] “camshaft” is safe). Okay, where was I? It’s a LOBE, people. Right. Who still thinks I’m a mechanic? Yeah that’s what I thought.



I remember letting out an involuntary giggle at seeing this the first time. I still don’t know what prompted it, just that maybe it was a feeling of accomplishment? *whispers* Also, I find camshafts kinda sexy. Let’s keep that between us.



I’m allowing a brief rant about the chain guide in the lower left hand corner of that picture, btw. The book says it ‘may be tight.’ Yeah, whomever wrote that can go eff themselves along with the MF who designed it in the first place. …’may be tight.’ Screw you man. Yes, it was tight.

I was so worried about losing those little hats I ended up taping around each side. I used electrical tape because I knew it wouldn’t work as well as duct tape and I was right, it didn’t work at all! Well, until I looped it around and secured it to itself. I’m sure you’ll see it in latter photos.



More dirty! I’d messed around with maybe some Simple Green on that…cleaner…piston before remembering to take a picture.



In case you were wondering what I did with them.

 
#31 · (Edited)
I guess I was done for the day. That’s what no one’s shop looks like, ever. I was probably cleaning because I was thinking.









There’s the tape!



I needed all the obvious references I could get. I was raised by the Star Trek Principal (TNG). You know, always have backups for the backups?



Crankshaft.







I decided after taking this picture that too much could go wrong if I removed all of the pistons at once so I did it one at a time.



#4 was my first victim!



Look at how shiny! Kinda.





All done with THAT case!



The Simple Green Spa and Eco-soak. Gift certificates are available on our website (not really). Please note the leak in the container that drove me nuts for a half hour.



All cleaned up and ready (to be put in a bag for later)!



Guess what? It’s REALLY effing DIFFICULT to convince a piston to go into a cylinder. Ever try to put a cat into a carrier? It’s worse. Even with that ring holder compression tool. Which SUCKS. Okay, some of it was user-error and it didn’t help that I like a liberal coating of oil on everything. So yes, I installed fresh rings in the pistons and it only took me three or so hours to get the damn things installed. Use the wooden handle of your rubber mallet and lean into it like a crutch. You have to be quick though because the rings don’t like change. Oh and it really helps if the side of the compression cup that rests against the motor is perfectly straight and aligned with itself. The ring will want to pop out at the slightest chance. Did I say perfectly aligned?

 
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