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2009 R6 Track Bike

14K views 71 replies 20 participants last post by  High Side 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey all,

I bought a 2009 R6 in 2015 to use for the track. Since October 2015, I've been converting it from stock to a mild mannered track bike. Not too interested in outright power or speed, but I want it to slide better when it goes down. I've never posted anything about it here, but I sure have gotten a lot of good info from you folks. Prob put some pics of the build on here and use this to document some of the changes I've made since.

Details already on my web site: www.outcropacres.com
 
#2 ·
Initial Build

Here are some of the things I've done to the bike since purchase in July 2015 and dedicating it to the track:

  • MJS Exhaust with the stock (EXUP) slipon
  • Power Commander 5 with Autotune
  • Graves Smog Blockoffs
  • K&N Filter
  • GPR4 Steering Stabilizer
  • Galfer GP Stainless Front Brake Lines
  • Galfer G1375 Sintered Pads
  • Woodcraft Frame Sliders
  • ETI Fuel Tank Sliders
  • Optimal Racing Body

Most of that was just to get the stock plastics off. It started with the new track body, but the stock exhaust wouldn't fit. So got the header. But then I needed to correct the fueling, so got the PC5. Which required a dyno tune or at least an Autotune. Both of these required smog block off plates. And I should at least change the air filter.

The rest was for protection - of the bike and me. Sliders, better brakes (way better brakes!!!!) and the stabilizer.
 
#11 ·
Re: Initial Build

Here are some of the things I've done to the bike since purchase in July 2015 and dedicating it to the track:

  • MJS Exhaust with the stock (EXUP) slipon
  • Power Commander 5 with Autotune
  • Graves Smog Blockoffs
  • K&N Filter
  • GPR4 Steering Stabilizer
  • Galfer GP Stainless Front Brake Lines
  • Galfer G1375 Sintered Pads
  • Woodcraft Frame Sliders
  • ETI Fuel Tank Sliders
  • Optimal Racing Body

Most of that was just to get the stock plastics off. It started with the new track body, but the stock exhaust wouldn't fit. So got the header. But then I needed to correct the fueling, so got the PC5. Which required a dyno tune or at least an Autotune. Both of these required smog block off plates. And I should at least change the air filter.

The rest was for protection - of the bike and me. Sliders, better brakes (way better brakes!!!!) and the stabilizer.
would be nice to have all this done
 
#4 · (Edited)
2016 Changes

During 2016, the R6 went to the track a good bit. Mostly Summit Point and NCBike. During that time, I made a few little updates:

  • Stompgrip Tank Pads
  • Bauce Racing ECU Flash



The ECU Flash was fantastic in terms of ridability, throttle response, and overall performance. Anthony from Bauce Racing also corrected most of the slightly warm idle problem I have had since adding the Power Commander.

While updating my slowly developing track skills, I also added some personal safety stuff, i.e., a Hit-Air vest. Meanwhile, I went through three sets of tires. I probably could have squeezed some more life out of them, but figured I would error on the safe side.

One day I might paint the body or put some decals on it. Maybe just stripe it. Or maybe do nothing. It works fine as is.
 
#5 ·
Vortex Rearsets

I thought it may be good to get my feet a little further up above the asphalt since I drag my toes every once in a while. Not because I am fast or leaning way over. Usually, my big ole size 12 boot finds itself pointing too far down. I've mostly figured that out, but found a good deal on some new Vortex V2 Rearsets and, since they look pretty cool and are very grippy, I thought I'd add them to the build.

Install requires a good bit of rework or compromise on some basic stock functions. Brake fluid reservoir needs to be relocated or replaced by the hose-only option, no brake return spring, and the brake line, which is now too long, has to be rerouted. Most complicated was the brake reservoir relocation.

Here are the problems all laid out. Note the homemade brake return spring over the master cylinder. I thought that was pretty clever and then found that like everyone that wants a brake return spring does the same thing.



I have the pegs installed at highest, farthest back position. That may make it all a bit tougher. I fabbed a new bracket for the brake reservoir. And I found a purpose built brake return spring by Woodcraft. That was a bit cleaner than my washers and weed eater spring, so I sprung for that (get it??).

Here is the bracket I fabbed from 1/8 x 1 1/4 aluminum stock. It simply raises the location of the reservoir using the same bolt hole as the stock bracket.



Here is the new, painted reservoir bracket mounted up and the Woodcraft replacement return spring in place.



Gear shift side went on ok. Except I have to figure out what grease applicator works for that tiny little fitting on the rod end / heim joint.
 
#10 ·
Clip On Replacement

So I saw the video that showed up on this site during December 2016 about the guy who crashed cause one of his OEM clip ons broke going into a turn. I figure that was a one-off, but it created just enough doubt for me to go get some new clip ons. Yeah, I know I could apply that logic to everything on the bike.

I bought some Renthals, thinking the markings on them would make it easy to get them even on both sides. As I was checking the fit, I discovered the spring clip on the stock clutch lever may interfere with the Renthal Fork Clamp. The Renthal Fork Clamp is pretty bulky where the bar fits in, because it has to make room for the two bar bolts. So I am exchanging them for Woodcrafts. The Woodcrafts have a pretty low profile Fork Clamp so the stock clutch spring clip will fit.

Renthals


Stock


So now waiting on the Woodcrafts. These updates (rearsets and clip ons) are turning out like the track body - changing one thing creates a chain reaction leading to changes of a bunch of other things. I know its fun and all, but where does it stop? The bank wants to know.
 
#12 ·
While I Wait for Clip Ons

Its pretty cold here in Virginia. Wet too. Given I don't like to be cold or wet, there are few indoor things as much fun as a day in the garage, even if the new Woodcraft Clip Ons haven't arrived. I do have the GB Racing case covers and Lost Key Stupidity Insurance system to install. I also have some extra wheels I wanted to clean up and ready for some spare tires.

I know many say to get any real case protection, I should use Woodcraft or NRC case covers. I've heard ok reports with the GB Racing covers and, since I have them, will install them. It would be good if they last one crash at least. Then I'll go to the Woodcrafts. Here is the right side with the GB Racing covers installed.



Here is the left side, showing the clutch cover installed.

 
#13 ·
Lost Key Stupidity Insurance

It would suck to drive for hours, spend $100 on diesel fuel, and pay for a hotel room only to get to the track with the scooter, a full tank of gas, and no key. So while I had the top triple clamp off, I figured I go keyless using this handy Woodcraft key loss prevention system.



I'm still going to need the key for the gas tank after I run the first tank dry. Or, like the rest of this nearly uncontrollable chain reaction fueled by dollars, I could go get a keyless gas tank for $100.
 
#16 ·
Thanks. They do blend well. I guess they could be painted if I wanted to stand out. Never thought of that.

Funny, I pretty much work all the time. Don't get much done, but always working some crisis, some gotta-have-now project. Mostly IT type stuff. I don't want to spend all this money, but would like to return this scooter to stock one day. So trying not to cut too many harnesses, subframes, body parts, etc. Then, one day, I'll get about 15-25% of my investment back (if I'm lucky).
 
#15 ·
Spare Wheels

I bought these wheels from a guy on the forum. They are in great shape. Here, I pulled the rotors off the front to knock any solidified brake dust from the rotor buttons and let me get the wheel hub cleaned up a bit. I was very pleased to find the rotor buttons had little petrified brake dust - they turned pretty easy. Also cut off the valve stem so I could put a 90 degree stem on.



Not sure what kind of tires I'll go with. I was thinking I would move up to slicks or at least Pirelli Supercorsa SCs. Of course, I would have to get some warmers for those (the chain reaction continues). Right now I use Supercorsa SPs and they seem to be fine for me (mid Intermediate). Plus no warmers necessary.
 
#18 ·
I was a little hesitant about the ETI sliders, given the expense. But given the horror stories of having the bike skipping and grinding down the asphalt with fuel pouring out and turning into a fireball, I figured better safe than sorry. When I got them, there were no bumpers inside the sliders to limit abrasion on the tank. So I covered the sides of the tank with that 3M Auto Bra clear plastic stuff. I didn't put it on very well, considering all the curves. But it is there for protection only and is said to peel off with no damage to the paint. Had a look after a year of track riding and its holding up nicely. It would be nice to not have to test them anymore than I already have.



I was worried that the leathers might catch on the back lip near the seat. So far that hasn't happened. I also thought they may flex or shift and not be stable enough for tank grips. But I put some Stompgrips on the ETI covers and I've never felt them give at all.



All in all, I like them a lot.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Woodcraft Clip Ons

Received the Woodcraft clip ons in exchange for the Renthals. Much more clearance for the stock clutch adjustment spring tang.

Not sure how folks get them angled consistently. I used a metal rule resting on the fork clamps across the front of the fork tubes. Then I set a reference point where the rule touched the fork (the tangent). Then measured 11mm from that point to the clip on inside clamp seam. I set the clamps 40mm from the top of the fork tube (not the cap). For the tube length, I measured 30mm of tube sticking out of the inside of the clamp.



Clutch lever is not tightened, but you can tell there is plenty of room for the spring tang. Throttle side is pretty busy. Would like a throttle and cable that routed from the top or front of bar, but I expect that will require custom cables.
 
#31 ·
Optimal Racing Bodywork

The Optimal Racing body work has been excellent, though I don't have experience with the other brands. It hasn't gone thru its first crash yet, so I can't tell you how it will hold up. A track day coach I know uses Optimal Racing bodies on a couple of his race bikes and they went through a couple of crashes pretty well.



On my bike, the body fit perfectly, with the drilling marks/dimples being exactly where they needed to be after extensive measuring. I also like that the left side does not extend back past the shift rod. That allows easy access to the shift rod and simplifies fairing removal.

The draft shield on the tail was a tight fit in that there was barely enough overlap between the shield and tail to get a screw in. So instead of a screw through both, I used a couple of coax cable clips on the shield that then fit into the tail at the point. Reduces the number of screws I have to remove to take the tail off. Works well.

 
#32 ·
The Optimal Racing body work has been excellent, though I don't have experience with the other brands. It hasn't gone thru its first crash yet, so I can't tell you how it will hold up. A track day coach I know uses Optimal Racing bodies on a couple of his race bikes and they went through a couple of crashes pretty well.



On my bike, the body fit perfectly, with the drilling marks/dimples being exactly where they needed to be after extensive measuring. I also like that the left side does not extend back past the shift rod. That allows easy access to the shift rod and simplifies fairing removal.

The draft shield on the tail was a tight fit in that there was barely enough overlap between the shield and tail to get a screw in. So instead of a screw through both, I used a couple of coax cable clips on the shield that then fit into the tail at the point. Reduces the number of screws I have to remove to take the tail off. Works well.
Awesome thsnks for the super detailed reply! A buddy and I are planning to pick a pair up and we appreciate the info!
 
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