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Thinking that my 07 R6 engine is toast...

6K views 67 replies 17 participants last post by  MELK-MAN 
#1 ·
I've read things from this forum for a long time just never made an account until now. Anyway if you guys could hear me out that would be great. So last weekend I was riding and got stuck at a construction zone where there was a light and had to wait almost 2 minutes for the light. It was 95 degrees out, my bike warmed up and fans turned on. Light turned green, I started going. As i was shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear I lost lots of power and it started to sound almost like a V-twin bike with very loud ticking/clanking. I rode a quarter mile perhaps to the next exit and got off and shut it off, haven't turned it on since. From posts i've read im assuming its a rod bearing, or crank bearing or something. (I'm not good with all the terms). I had the right amount of oil, but i've read about oil pressure problems in the 06-07's? Is my engine likely shot? What are my options? I know i'm going to take a big $$ loss here but just trying to see how bad.

And if anyone is from Minnesota and knows of a good trustworthy shop to bring the bike to in the Minneapolis area that would be awesome. If I need a new engine where is the best place to get one and how much am I looking to be spending for a good one, is it possible to put engine in with some knowledge of these things?
Hopefully this post makes sense, I love my R6... wan't to see her run again. By the way bike has nearly 18k miles on it.
Thanks again anyone who sees this!
 
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#4 ·
Take a spray bottle first and check to see if all four header pipes are at temp. if a cylinder went down (engine failure, plug fell out, or the ignition coil popped off) it could sound like a lawnmower.
 
#5 ·
Sidavong, I started bike for only about 30 seconds until headers got hot enough to evaporate water. If you are sitting on the bike.. the right three pipes evaporated water at equal rates, but the left one did not at all. Would that mean just no compression in that cylinder? therefore screwed up piston? Big problem?
 
#10 ·
gonzalo4... the bike got up to probably 230 degrees before the light turned green. Like Aleeex said, i doubt sitting at a light could cause the motor to go bad.. but I am not sure. Could it have melted a spark plug or something? I am bringing it to a mechanic that an older adult I know recommended and has used for years. I would jump into the bike myself, but I don't have a lot of know how with the actual mechanics of the bike. Just basic stuff like chain tightening, oil/filter change, stuff like that.
 
#11 ·
I've done it all on cylinder one or the one on the left when sitting on the bike....


I pulled a burnt plug. I also had the threads go to shit and spit a plug out 8 months and full season of track days later. I had a threadsert thrown in and I think its toast. I'm just gonna throw another head on it with a thinner gasket lol.

If the spark plug is just spinning or you can't get the plug to tighten fully you're probably gonna need it heli-coiled or threadserted. I had a machine shop do it for me last time. Its much easier with the head off but it can be done with the head on the engine off the bike.
 
#12 ·
Almost every time I hear "it sounds like a v-twin" it is a coil.
 
#14 ·
I brought it to a small shop that is recommended by someone I know (plus positive online review's) yesterday. So we will see what he finds. Would a coil go bad randomly once your up to speed (60mph)? That's whats weird to me, that it would go bad while I'm riding it easy, but then again.. I'm no bike expert. :p
 
#20 ·
THis is 100% a coil issue! you have a tiny crack in the coil. it will run fine when its cool but when it heats up ( like it happened to u at the light) everything expands making the crack bigger and instead of sending the spark down to the plug it finds a path of less resistance and shoots it out the side. No spark = cylinder not firing.
 
#22 · (Edited)
where else would you expect to find a used set of coils at any given moment ? I sold a set on this forum's classified section for $60 i think some time ago. But finding them that way is hit or miss. And unless you do some research on that specific person selling stuff, it's "buyer beware". On ebay, from a reputable seller (those with literally THOUSANDS of positive feedback replies) you at least can buy with some confidence you will get what you pay for..

and before you go buying coils, you need to do the spray bottle/thermo gun test on the headers. If cyl #1 isn't heating like the others, move the coil. If the problem STAYS on cyl 1.. it's obviously NOT the coil ;) Have you tested the resistance of your coils ? THere are plenty of "how to's" in the how to section. you simply need an inexpensive multi meter. do they get cracks? the early ones.. sure. the later ones especially with a "13s" in the part number on the top of the coil ? not so much

and a bad coil won't make the motor make horrible noises. You need to do a compression test at least (but this won't show if the lower end bearing is going). you can pick one of those up at an auto parts store for $35 ! and if you can remove spark plugs, you can do a compression test. again. Google/youtube is your friend. but since you already took your bike to a shop, expect to pay a lot more than $35
 
#26 · (Edited)
Sounds like you may have dropped a valve to me. See attached. This was a "clunky sounding" R1 that wouldn't idle.
 

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#27 ·
Mechanic called me today and told me it dropped a valve.. He said that he could likely repair it for 2-3k if I don't need a new cylinder wall. But he personally advised me to look for a used 07 engine. So I'm stuck guys, i love love love my R6 but if its going to cost me that much is it even worth it? Would parting out be a good bet? Or is parting out tough/tedious to do? I would love to buy a 08+ R6 but this has made me weary of R6's.. Even though we have 3 more Yamaha vehicles in the family (2 stroke dirt bikes) those are a lot different than these obviously.. What's peoples opinion on what I should do? Are the older 04,05 R6 good reliability wise?
 
#31 ·
^^^^ I win!

Pulling the motor and replacing the head and piston is not too difficult "if" you have above average mechanical skills. If you do decide to take on the job, find a friend that has done it before or has better than average skills. It is easy to mess up especially when torquing bolts into an aluminum crankcase or head.

I can't tell you how many times I've been diagnosing a noisy engine to find out whomever was in there before doing valve service had stripped the cam cap bolts out and the cams were bouncing around in there.
 
#28 ·
you can buy a COMPLETE 06-current R6 head on ebay, with valves and everything, for $350-550. Head gasket is $65 or so. Get a used piston for the year of your bike.. Bolt the thing on and go. Done. Shouldn't be $3000 but will be if you buy lots of new stuff and pay the labor to remove/replace the motor and rebuild the engine.

r/r motor should be about $250. Motor rebuild labor should be around $900-1500 (parts additional)

IF you decide to put a complete used motor in, you can use ANY 06-current r6 engine. They all fit.

you can send the head to millenium technologies to be repaired, but it would be cheaper to just buy a used r6 head with the valves and everything in it. .

i am rebuilding a supersport motor right now if you need a complete set of valves, pistons, and con rods with just over a season on them. we rebuilt that motor with all new parts in early 2014. $375 for those parts.

the 03-05/s model r6 is awesome. And more durable as it uses steel valves, not TI valves like on the 3rd gen motor (06-current r model)
 
#29 · (Edited)
Would it be a project that I could do.. I am not super knowledgeable with engines. I mean I can do oil and other simple stuff but I don't consider that hard.. I did a midpipe and put exhaust on/off by myself but i know that is basic stuff most anyone can figure out... I have the want to learn how to take apart these engines and repair/replace stuff in them. But I also don't have unlimited money to screw up trying to figure it out.. (who does haha..) If I get a new head with valves already in it.. how do i know if the valves are good? things to look for?! Is it a easyish winter project? Mind you I have never seen the inside of one of these engines in person, more or less taken an engine out to work on it.
 
#30 ·
this isn't something you can likely tackle, so your options for the most part, are limited to paying someone to do it all. that doesn't mean you can't ask them to buy a used head with valves that is ready to bolt on..
 
#33 ·
Thanks for your honest opinion, I was figuring it was probably above my level. If i do pay the 2-3k to have mechanic do it do i still run the risk of this happening again in the future if i kept the bike for quite a while? What causes a dropped valve? Can getting valve clearances checked sooner stop a dropped valce? Im just trying to figure all of this out as I don't know a lot about it. You guys are a big help, I appreciate it!
 
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