Hey guys,I've used several of your How-To's personally and your forum for invaluable advice, so I thought I'd contribute something back!
I did this mod a month or 2 ago but took plenty of pics to help u guys out.
This mod was done on an 08 R6 to change the stock gauge cluster backlighting from red to blue.
I've heard a few guys ask about how long this may take and it really depends. I'm fairly experienced with soldering and circuit boards and it took me (including fairing removal and replacement ~ 40 min) about 3 hrs.Most of the time is spent trying to properly de-solder the lcd screen pins, but i'll get into it none the less.
- 8 x Replacement LEDs (4 x for LCD panels, 4 x for tacho, you will need this type of LED (http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p...e-led/6659380/), i'm an aussie, but i'm sure you can find a supplier of similar LEDs elsewhere. Also, when ordering these, make sure you get AT LEAST 224mcd(intensity/brightness), otherwise they will be too dull. Go higher and you can always adjust them with brightness control buttons))
- Soldering Iron (preferably a soldering station with adjustable temp, but a low power iron with a SMALL tip will do)
- Thin gauge solder
- Solder-wick (to remove the existing solder)
- Isopropyl Alcohol (to clean the board after removal/installation)
Righto, so first step is to get your gauge out.You will need to remove mirrors, windscreen and front cowl. You can just drop the front cowl down and rest it on a towel then unplug and remove the gauge cluster via 3 screws on the back (~ 20 mins)
Next you'll need to remove the gauge casing and needle to expose the circuit board. Place the cluster face down.
Remove all the black screws (11) and remove the back casing.
Lift the circuit board out using the black plug and flip it over.Remove the tacho needle by pulling STRAIGHT up, you can use your fingers or alternatively use 2 teaspoons on either side as levers.
Flip it back over and remove all the other small black screws (13) on the circuit board.
This will remove the black shrouding along the top of the gauge.
Next step is where some of the de-soldering starts.In order to remove the tacho faceplate, you need to de-solder 2 pins sticking through the board for the security/key/flashing red light LED.
For those of you not familiar with solder-wick, simply place the end of the solder-wick on the existing solder, place the soldering iron on top and the solder will melt into the wick and off the board.You may need to cut the used tip of the wick off and re-do this a few times to remove all the solder from the pin/board.
Once both pins are free the gauge faceplate should lift off the board.
Now the real fun begins! This is the most time consuming part. Not hard, just a bit fiddly.
Youll need to de-solder about 16(ish) pins on each side to remove the LCD screens and get access to the LCDs underneath.
(this pic was taken with the pins already removed)
After de-soldering all the pins in the same way as the previous red-light pins, you can check if the pins are loose by grabbing the pin end with some needle-nose pliers and moving side to side.
You'll need all the pins to be loose/separated from the board to lift the LCD screen off.
Once off, should look like this:
NOW you have access to all your LEDs that you want to replace.
(8 total, 2 behind each LCD and 4 behind gauge)
De-solder the LEDs (there is a small amount of solder on each edge, as these are surface-mount and don't go through the board), taking note of the orientation of the LED. LEDs will only work in one direction, so you can test this with a multimeter if you're unsure.
But if it's the same type of led you're fitting the just make sure they're facing the same way.
Before you solder anything back on, give the board a good clean with the isopropyl alcohol to remove the flux (yellowy stuff).
Now it's simply a matter of soldering your new LEDs and the screens back on.
Like I said before, it can be a little tricky as they are small parts. But small gauge solder and a fine-tipped soldering iron help A LOT.
I found the easiest way to get the LEDs back on was to melt a little solder onto the pad where it sits, then hold the led with pliers and re-melt the solder as you place it on the pad.
Clean off the yellow flux after you're done.
Once you're done with the LEDs, place the LCD screens back on and feed the pins through the holes.
Re-solder all the pins back to the board (you will only need a very small 'dab' of solder per pin) to make a good connection.
Also be careful not to allow solder to 'short' any pins together.
Once you re-soldered all the pins on both LCD screens, you can re-attach the tacho and feed the 2 pins for the security light through the board and re-solder.
Once these are done give the board a good clean with the alcohol and simply re-assemble in the reverse order.
All these steps may look a bit daunting but when you break it down it's very simple, just time consuming.
So you can now change your gauges to whatever colour you want in whatever configuration you choose.
ie: blue screens and white tacho etc.
Any questions feel free to ask!
Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app
Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app