FIRST DRAFT: PICTURES TO COME SOON
The Annitori QS comes with a reasonably "meh" set of instructions that doesn't explain the special little bits I had to do. Remember, this cuts the ignition, not the fuel supply. The wires given are to be connected to the spark plug coils and not under the tank.
First off, my apologies for being practically without pictures (I was working on this in the evening and my phone is crap-tastic). I will do my best to be as detailed as I can in the descriptions and post-install pictures.
What you will need: Whatever tools you need to free the tank, radiator, seat and shift link.
There are two possible routes to this: from the air box, or under the radiator. I chose under the radiator. The airbox is small and you’ll need to be able to get a full hand in to accurately do what you want.
Bike Pre-Prep: Free the tank so it can be lifted when needed, and disconnect the radiator from the bottom nut so it can swing back to give you more space.
NOTE: If you plan to keep your rad fans, you might want to consider dropping the radiator or going through the air box. This is my race/track bike so I was removing the fans anyway... but either route is a tight fit.
Part 1: Installing the Coil Connectors
DO NOT remove all the coil connectors from your spark plugs at once. You should be connecting one connector one at a time. I started with the Clutch side and moved by way one by one to the brake side.
You should have your Annitori supplied coil wires set up so the longest wire that connects to the sensor is on the clutch side. Otherwise, it might be a tight/stretching fit.
When your free the radiator, start by connecting the first plug coil (you can start on either side). Remove the stock plug coil, and attach the ‘IN’ Annitori coil adaptor to the plug coil, and ‘OUT’ to the wire leading into the next coil.
NOTE: The Annitori coil plugs do not snap in and out like the stock ones do. But they fit snuggly and as they should. What you need to do is, once the Annitori adapter coil is in, gently lift the tab about a centimeter. If you give a slight tug, then it should be held in place. DO NOT APPLY FORCE! If you break the tab you’ll be SOL, it only needs a slight lift to attach it to the coil connector.
Repeat this step for all four coils, remember: long wire connecting to the Annitori sensor should be on the clutch side.
When all the coils adapters/plugs are in, you may give it a start up to make sure it’s firing properly. If it doesn’t, make sure all the tabs are properly secured (and the right ones too!).
Part 2: Installing the Sensor/Shift Linkage
I needed to contact Annitori for additional help on this. But the pic below is how it should be set up (confirmed by Annitori after I sent them pictures). Once the shifter is put together and securely installed using the stock lock nuts in their normal placement, connect the sensor wire and clip it to the spark plug coil wire (the long one from Part 1).
*Picture coming soon
Part 3: Power & Wire Routing
BEFORE YOU ZIP-TIE ANYTHING:
Make sure you have enough wire on the Annitori sensor (shift link) so that when you shift up or down, there’s enough free play without forcing or bending the wire. Once I found that perfect amount (with a little extra), I zip-tied the wire to the shift knuckle so it wouldn’t slip down or stick out any more than it should.
Now is time to lift your tank. I routed my wire from under the heat shield right above the shift link, keeping it under the tank, snug against the frame, underneath the tank to the clutch side of the battery. After I connected the power supply to the battery terminal, I zip-tied the Annitori wires to the main set of harness wires to keep it secure.
Once everything was set with the right amount of slack, I zip-tied the wires to the main set of the wire harness to keep everything neat and tidy. I kept the Annitori set up/light box under the seat. If I ever wanted to change the setting, it's easy to get to without getting in the way).
Final Step: Start Up and Set Up
I didn’t bother putting anything back together until I tested it, knowing it was installed and worked properly.
Move your Engine Run switch (aka Kill Switch) to the Off position. Turn the Key/Ignition “ON”. Quickly turn your Engine Run/Kill Switch on and off 4-5 times. When you turn it on the last time, you’ll see the Annitori light boxy blink. It will cycle through the low/med/high settings. When you’re at the setting you wish, just turn the Engine Run/Kill switch off.
I kept mine on medium sensitivity since this is my race bike; it will be hard on the go/stop/turn and don’t want any bumps or movement changes to set it off.
I’ll get a test video up soon... .but for now, all I can say is it’s beautifully smooth.
The Annitori QS comes with a reasonably "meh" set of instructions that doesn't explain the special little bits I had to do. Remember, this cuts the ignition, not the fuel supply. The wires given are to be connected to the spark plug coils and not under the tank.
First off, my apologies for being practically without pictures (I was working on this in the evening and my phone is crap-tastic). I will do my best to be as detailed as I can in the descriptions and post-install pictures.
What you will need: Whatever tools you need to free the tank, radiator, seat and shift link.
There are two possible routes to this: from the air box, or under the radiator. I chose under the radiator. The airbox is small and you’ll need to be able to get a full hand in to accurately do what you want.
Bike Pre-Prep: Free the tank so it can be lifted when needed, and disconnect the radiator from the bottom nut so it can swing back to give you more space.
NOTE: If you plan to keep your rad fans, you might want to consider dropping the radiator or going through the air box. This is my race/track bike so I was removing the fans anyway... but either route is a tight fit.
Part 1: Installing the Coil Connectors
DO NOT remove all the coil connectors from your spark plugs at once. You should be connecting one connector one at a time. I started with the Clutch side and moved by way one by one to the brake side.
You should have your Annitori supplied coil wires set up so the longest wire that connects to the sensor is on the clutch side. Otherwise, it might be a tight/stretching fit.
When your free the radiator, start by connecting the first plug coil (you can start on either side). Remove the stock plug coil, and attach the ‘IN’ Annitori coil adaptor to the plug coil, and ‘OUT’ to the wire leading into the next coil.
NOTE: The Annitori coil plugs do not snap in and out like the stock ones do. But they fit snuggly and as they should. What you need to do is, once the Annitori adapter coil is in, gently lift the tab about a centimeter. If you give a slight tug, then it should be held in place. DO NOT APPLY FORCE! If you break the tab you’ll be SOL, it only needs a slight lift to attach it to the coil connector.
Repeat this step for all four coils, remember: long wire connecting to the Annitori sensor should be on the clutch side.
When all the coils adapters/plugs are in, you may give it a start up to make sure it’s firing properly. If it doesn’t, make sure all the tabs are properly secured (and the right ones too!).
Part 2: Installing the Sensor/Shift Linkage
I needed to contact Annitori for additional help on this. But the pic below is how it should be set up (confirmed by Annitori after I sent them pictures). Once the shifter is put together and securely installed using the stock lock nuts in their normal placement, connect the sensor wire and clip it to the spark plug coil wire (the long one from Part 1).
*Picture coming soon
Part 3: Power & Wire Routing
BEFORE YOU ZIP-TIE ANYTHING:
Make sure you have enough wire on the Annitori sensor (shift link) so that when you shift up or down, there’s enough free play without forcing or bending the wire. Once I found that perfect amount (with a little extra), I zip-tied the wire to the shift knuckle so it wouldn’t slip down or stick out any more than it should.
Now is time to lift your tank. I routed my wire from under the heat shield right above the shift link, keeping it under the tank, snug against the frame, underneath the tank to the clutch side of the battery. After I connected the power supply to the battery terminal, I zip-tied the Annitori wires to the main set of harness wires to keep it secure.
Once everything was set with the right amount of slack, I zip-tied the wires to the main set of the wire harness to keep everything neat and tidy. I kept the Annitori set up/light box under the seat. If I ever wanted to change the setting, it's easy to get to without getting in the way).
Final Step: Start Up and Set Up
I didn’t bother putting anything back together until I tested it, knowing it was installed and worked properly.
Move your Engine Run switch (aka Kill Switch) to the Off position. Turn the Key/Ignition “ON”. Quickly turn your Engine Run/Kill Switch on and off 4-5 times. When you turn it on the last time, you’ll see the Annitori light boxy blink. It will cycle through the low/med/high settings. When you’re at the setting you wish, just turn the Engine Run/Kill switch off.
I kept mine on medium sensitivity since this is my race bike; it will be hard on the go/stop/turn and don’t want any bumps or movement changes to set it off.
I’ll get a test video up soon... .but for now, all I can say is it’s beautifully smooth.