Yamaha R6 Forum: YZF-R6 Forums banner

Random Stalls / Dies 2005 R6

8K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  playtowinpb 
#1 ·
Okay,

So the issue I have been having is a very annoying one that has been going on for about a year now and I have finally just got around to having time to fix it. ( that and It is getting worse )

What happens is this, Randomly when either a) in neutral at a light or b) clutch in my bike will dies, clean death like you hit the kill switch and or turned the key. but its completely random. It will work great all day then it will die.
when you try and restart it it just fires right up like nothing happened.

The only way I was able to get this to stall last time was a 26km drive on a warm day to/from a local airport stalled when I arrived, parked my bike for a hour then stalled on the last light before my house.

For what I have done..
Professionally had a valve adjustment done, new air filter K&N
oil change + new filter
didn't take long.. maybe a hour but I left it on over night..
I've made sure to put new fuel in it.. ( Petro-Canada 91 vs Chevron 94 ) to see if the old Chevron 94 was just going bad..
checked idle, according to the tachometer its sitting bang on 1350-1400RPM very little jiggling
Anything else I can try without spending too much money?
 
See less See more
#3 ·
Aye, I've been thinking that ( I have been searching this forum for a few weeks trying to figure this out actually )

but would the TPS senesor make it randomly crap out after 25+ km from my gatherings I thought it would be a lot more common then that.
 
#5 ·
If it isn't the TPS, then dollars to doughnuts, your fuel pump filter sock is dirty. Started happening to me at the track, would ride fine, then randomly bog down and would die if I ever let it drop to idle. Seemed like it was starved for fuel. I cleaned injectors, valve clearances, tps, all that crap, and it was all good. Kept having problems. Finally pulled the drained the tank and pulled the fuel pump. Took off the base plate and found the filter sock to be dirty as hell, covered in bits of crap that had snuck into the tank over the years. Blasted it with carb cleaner, cleaned out the tank, and filled it with fresh/clean gas, never had another problem.
 
#9 ·
I love how you say "carefully", makes me feel like i'm going to rip it out and dunk it in a bath of Isopropyl but I will do that also thanks

Right now i'm just trying to drain my tank a bit.. I don't have that big of a bucket so I don't want to be trying to empty out a full tank of 91 gas in a underground parking lot ( where the rules state "YOU ARE NOT ALLOWED TO PREFORM ANY MAINTENANCE ON YOUR VEHICLES IN THE UNDERGROUND PARKING LOT"
 
#10 ·
Don't know how these are designed, but many MAF sensor designs have a delicate thin wire just inside the orifice. Some folks will hit that wire with the spray can's straw or put the straw right-up on it and blast it. There have been reports of folks damaging their sensors in such cases with other vehicles.
 
#12 ·
Okay,

bit more digging zero idea how to read this ( and my web searching abilities have confused me )

D01:17
D02:101
D03:0
D05:13
D06:14
D07:0
D09:11.4
D20:ON
D21:ON
D30:00
D61:20,30
D62:2

I belive that means there are two errors and as far as i can tell..

20: intake air pressure
30: Lean angle cut-off

what does that mean exactly?
 
#13 ·
Bump.

I don't have any experience with this re motorcycles but if it were a car, I'd guess that out-of-parameter intake pressure might be considered a "vaccum leak" issue.

The other code, again guessing, might be mean that either, the sensor shut down the engine at some point in the past, or it failed power-on self testing.
 
#14 ·
Per the (2nd gen.) manual, any fault in the intake pressure sensor system shouldn't cause the bike to stop running. It should revert to a preset value.

The tip-over sensor will however shut the bike off and would need to have the ignition cycled before restarting. I would definitely look at this switch and the wiring.

It may not be either of these things, but I'd start looking into things that would actually make the bike turn off such as, tip over switch, kickstand switch, crankshaft position sensor, and associated wiring.

It is likely not a fueling or air issue, as you said the bike is running fine. Intermittent faults tend to be electrical problems.

Download the manual if you haven't already. There is a lot of good info in there.

There is no Mass Air Flow Sensor.
 
#17 ·
Hey,

here is what got me working at 100% again..

took out the TPS, disconnected the leads, blasted the entire things with electronic cleaner ( isopropyl in a spray can ) made sure all the leads where clean.

slapped it together and went for a cruise

just make sure you give it time to dry before you put it back together ( takes about 10 minutes )

Don't ask me how that helps.. must be a really sensitive part.
 
#19 ·
Ok guys.... I don't post much but after me myself going through this nightmare I'll share what I've done which has seemed to fix this stupid random stalling BS. My bike is a 03 R6 with roughly 13k with only a Devil slipon. The problem only used to be low RPMS approaching a stop... clutch in and bam stall.... then it went the same thing but only when my temps were up over 200. Highway riding I was fine.... THEN.... it started happening no matter temp... rpms day or night it was stalling on my.... even doing 70 MPH it would cut out.... limped it home one night really bad....

BUT THERE'S LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL. Here's what I did:

1. Checked my coils... had the old Denso coils... bulletin was expired so it came out of my own pocket.. $240. Didn't fix the problem
2. New plugs when I changed the coils. Didn't fix the problem
3. Cleaned the kickstand sensor. Didn't fix the problem. (even popped a code this at one point in time!!!)
4. By passed the kickstand sensor. Didn't fix the problem.
5. Checked my lean angle sensor... was out of spec slightly (over 4volts). Bought a used sensor and waited for it in the mail so I just kept using the one I had. I even moved the lean angle sensor and taped it on top of the ECU since it's a pain to get out.
6. Cleaned the TPS and adjusted the settings and put them slightly out of spec just to see. Fixed the problem for about 1 day. Second day went for a ride and was worse than ever once it started stalling! At this point I said to myself... it has to be the TPS since I've read soooo many things about bad TPS sensors.... bought a used online and was waiting for it in the mail.
7. Built a home made monograph and synced my throttle body. Didn't fix BUT was fun to build and actually made it run smoother!!
7. THEN I read something about a few years ago Yamaha had a major recall about grounding issues which stalled that bike (DIFFERENT MODEL YAMAHA). I new it wasn't fuel or air related... so I said 'it's gotta be electrical". So the next three steps fixed my problem (after a week of messing with it... and lots of beer)!!!!!!

A. I cleaned EVERY electrical component from grounds to ALL THE connectors!!! Grounds I took off and sanded and cleaned spray/cleaned with electrical cleaner. Connectors I hosed down with the electrical cleaner then blow dry with compressed CAN air (not air compressor...... due to it having moisture). I even took off the ECU hosed the connector then blow dry.
B. I got my used lean angle sensor in the mail... so I threw that on to!
C. And lastly....... I charged my battery.... it was reading 12.8 volts... but said... MIGHT AS WELL....

Next day I did a 200 mile benefit run. Stop and go in the city for 40 mins with temps hitting over 200 with not one stall and still got me all the way home (1hr ride back home)... Not sure which one did it... but I thought I'd pass on what worked for me!!!!!!!!!!! RIDE ON AND BE SAFE!!!!
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top