I recently bought an 08 R6 with 2800 miles on it. I didn't ride it too hard, like under 40 mph when I first got it for a few days. Then I put sea foam in the oil and ran it for a little bit and then I changed the oil. I put some castrol power rs r4 4t 5w-40 in it. The oil is about 8 years old but it hasn't been opened. Now I finally took it out on the interstate and it was slipping like crazy, I'd be at 7k rpms and I'd roll the throttle, it would jump to 14k in a second. I've been reading a lot of of posts on here and people are saying oil, linkage adjustment. I don't see how the clutch could go out in >3k miles. Any advice you could give me would be greatly appreciated.
I would assume the oil was still good after 8 years since it was still sealed, let me know your thoughts please.
oil would last for thousands of years... stop putting sea foam in your oil. This bike has issues as it is with low end bearings. stop putting something as thin as what has the consistency of water into the crank case. Also, when you do an oil change, there is nearly 3/4 of a quart LEFT in the motor. you don't get it all out.
Step 1. BUY A MANUAL
first, do you have free play in your clutch lever ??
next, pull the clutch stack out, measure all the fibers and metals together. needs to be 42.3-43mm high.
next, measure the individual fibers . they need to be at least 2.85mm thick (3.0 is new).
Yeah, don't ever add stuff to the oil.
So far as the clutch, if all of what Melka suggested is good it may indeed be the plates. They may have degraded since they sat with little to no oil on them for years and years. I had one come apart after sitting for 9 years. Granted, the storage was outside under a tarp so not ideal for any parts of that bike.
I put the sea foam in because the bike had been sitting for 2 years in storage.
I have a manual and I don't want to tear the clutch apart because I have never done that I am not comfortable doing that. I'd rather just pay to have a new clutch put I'm not sure if that would fix the problem.
Why didn't you just put new oil. It has to be motorcycle oil cause car oil will cause the clutch to slip. Just keep it simple you don't need fancy stuff in there
agree about not putting other stuff in there, but it's not mandatory to run a bike specific oil. Any quality oil that doesn't show "ENERGY CONSERVING" in the little round symbol on the back label is fine for wet clutch bikes. Like Rotella. MILLIONS of dirt and road riders use this oil. zero issues.
I prefer Silkolene Pro4 in my roadrace bikes.. but use rotella a lot on my dirt bikes, and i compete offroad in the top "A" class in harescrambles .
It's pretty funny, I went and talked to the dealership this morning. They told me it was too early to put synthetic in and the weight was too light for here. I just put some 20w-50 mineral yamalube in and it's like a different bike now.
the plot and the oil thickens. 20w?? :surprise: Wholly crap you must be thick. Aint no modern engine needs a 20w. Christ even turbo charged engine use a 5 or 10w max.
^^ exactly .. many of the top MotoAmerica teams are using 0-20wt (i have personally talked with and know a couple mechanics ) but this stuff gets changed out a lot.
something else was going on. It wasn't just the oil. i can't imagine that the seafoam caused it, but as mentioned, STOP putting anything but oil in the crankcase.
i'm glad your bike is working, but "too early" for synthetic ?? that's laughable. You had 2800 miles on the bike already. You need to understand that a race motor of a top team, won't ever see more than 1000 miles TOTAL before complete rebuild. That means often full synthetic from the day it's started. Some will often put in dino (conventional) oil in for break in (few heat cycles and 1 session on track ) then switch to full synth. and yea, they/we don't have clutches that slip. ever.
I still think this nonsense about "too soon for full synthetic" is just that, nonsense.
Modern day motors already come broken in from the factory and in my opinion you can use full synthetic from day one. Most oil manufacturers tend to agree from what I have read.
totally agree.
myself and other racers are occasionally having to install new clutches right at the track, with hot synthetic oil in there, then do a warm up lap and launch to turn 1. Never an issue.
i put a new clutch in each of my 2 bikes at the beginning of the season.. usually it's still in spec. I check the stack height a couple times during the season, and occasionally need to replace one of the standard metals with the thicker optional metal to get the stack height closer to 43mm, but the fibers are all still above 2.85mm.
i know guys that fry em more than once a season.. they are trying to launch the bike at way too high an rpm in most cases.
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