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Electronics issue? Bike shuts off while riding.

14K views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  Turkey_Bait 
#1 ·
Okay, before I start, I somewhat know my way around a multimeter.

Bike is a 2002 YZF R6 w/14,000 miles

The bike has shut off twice while I've been riding.
The first time this happened I had somewhat of a warning. I looked down at my gauges and saw that my speedometer had shut off but my tac was still working. about 30 seconds later I pulled the clutch in to downshift and as soon as the transmission was disengaged the RPM's started to tank. I quickly throttled up and the bike started to sputter. I was able to travel another 300 yards or so before the bike completely died. I shifted into second and tried to pop the clutch to restart it but it wasn't having it. I was down the street from my work and just so happened to have my battery tender in my bag. I coasted into a Veterinary clinic and they were nice enough to let me plug the bike in for about 15 min. I didn't want to fool with it at work so I just turned around and went home. (10 min ride).

Went to an auto parts store and got a brand new battery. With a full charge. (metered it)

The second time this happened was the next time I rode my bike. I was no where near a power outlet when it happened so I had the bike towed back home. Upon returning home and pushing the bike into my garage I tried the electric start and it fired right up with no sound of it having a low charge. (Starter chirped twice and the bike started fine)

Both times, when i was on the side of the road and in the parking lot of the clinic, I tried restarting the bike (within 5 min of it dying) with the e-starter only to hear the starter barely make 1 full turn. (almost as if i had a dead battery)

The bike had sat for 3 to 4 weeks while I read up on what the issue could be. I have a feeling its the regulator/alternator/whatever the hell it is.
I went back up to the auto parts store and returned the battery and got another one (just in case the battery wasn't holding a charge).
I let the new battery sit on the tender overnight and into the afternoon before I unplugged it and metered the battery.
Results were:
Key off: 12.91
Key on: 12.18
At idle: 12.91
5,500RPM: 13.26

The jump in the voltage would lead me to believe that its not the charging system. I'm sort of at an end with my electrical knowledge at this point. A buddy of mine who also has a bike suggested that it could be fuel delivery if the bike is able to start after I let it sit for a while. But if its fuel delivery, why would I lose my gauges?
I've also thought it could be a short in the wiring somewhere but I'm not sure how to check for that aside from taking everything apart.
If its the alternator I'd be surprised being that there is only 14,000 miles on it.

If anyone has any insight into what the problem could be, it would be greatly appreciated. I need to commute to school on this bike, or suck down gas in my truck.
I would also like to be able to fix it myself if at all possible and save some $.

Thanks guys.
 
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#3 ·
This.

Your at-idle and at-load voltages are insufficient. Time to go through charging system diagnostics! There's numerous threads on how to do this. It's easy and won't take long. As a nod to 8Ball's suggestion, I'd check the regulator/rectifier plug first as you can see it without having to remove anything.

For what it's worth, I just put in a new OEM R/R to solve my charging issues. My voltages were similar to yours, i.e. insufficient.
 
#8 ·
I would go through all of the charging system diagnostics as stated above. You will find that the 99-02 are notorious for burned/melted plugs on the r/r and the stator connections. Your measured voltage above 5k is low. Even after replacing all of the charging system wiring, I ran into a problem with a replacement regulator that tested fine when the bike was cold but would drop off after 5-10 minutes of riding.
 
#10 ·
Not to thread jack, but I literally had the same problem after I replaced my battery and stator. And my volt meter has different markings than most (on top of that, I hardly know how to use it other than voltage readings)... In the ohm section it has 2m, 200k, 20k, 2k, and 200. On the 200 setting I checked my stator (1-2/3...2-1/3...3-1/2) All at .6 on my new and old stator plug. All plugs are greased for contact/ weather proofing, and Stator plugs/ R/R plugs are fine. Not sure how to test the R/R, but at idle bike holds a 12.27. at 4k, no difference. Rode fine for 4 miles, head lights flickered, and voltage was at 10. On the way back home, speedo shut off (signal lights/N still worked...?) Ran like crap as I idled and died on the side of the road. Super frustrating. I support the guys at my local bike shop, but jesus, they did my tires, chain, sprockets, ECU nightmare.... Im tired of getting stuck in the wallet lmao.
 
#11 ·
Okay. I believe I located the source of the problem.

I pulled off the regulator/rectifier and could see that the plug had corroded. There was some damage to the rectifier but I believe it will hold out.
I found this thread and used this guys idea :grin:
http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/51-how-tos/326265-rectifier-plug-replacement.html

If you guys have any charging issues, I strongly suggest looking at the regulator/rectifier plug first.

Thanks for all the help guys. I cant tell you enough how happy I am that this is resolved. Really appreciate being a part of such a great community of likeminded and knowledgeable people!:YEA
 

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