Where to look first? - Yamaha R6 Forum: YZF-R6 Forums
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-19-2016, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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Where to look first?

UPDATE POST 13

I was riding last night and I noticed my lights were flickering (getting dimmer/brighter every several seconds) several minutes later my check engine light popped up. Pulled over and turned off the bike, turned the ignition on and a code 46 popped up. Started her right back up and rode home. During the ride home the engine light was off then came back on a few minutes later, then turned off for the remainder of the ride home. After reading through some threads I know it could be an issue with either the rectifier or stator. Or just the rectifier plug? My local dealership quoted me $200 for labor and around $300 for parts (new rectifier/stator/gaskets). Should I just bite the bullet and have them both replaced or try to see if something is fried in there and maybe its a simple fix? What should I check first and how? No idea when the last time the battery was replaced. Is she safe to ride for the time being or is it best to not risk stalling out somewhere?

Mods: Bauce Racing ECU Flash, PCV, Custom Dyno Tune, MJS Mid-Pipe, Graves Carbon Fiber Slip-On, Graves Smog Block Off Plates, Graves Bar Ends, Zero Gravity Double Bubble Windscreen, Woodcraft Front & Rear Axle Sliders, Woodcraft Cut Frame Sliders, Woodcraft Slider Spools, T-Rex Clutch Sliders, K&N Air Filter, Fender Eliminator, Motodynamic Integrated Taillight, Hot Bodies Flush Mount Turn Signals & Pazzo Levers.

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-19-2016, 02:19 PM
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Re: Where to look first?

Its really easy for you to do the work yourself. Get the parts and try it


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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-20-2016, 09:09 AM
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Re: Where to look first?

Get a multimeter and follow the how-to's that are posted all over the internet and forums and check your rectifier and stator. Start simple, and check the battery first. Replace battery as required, but don't say problem solved until you check the stator and rectifier or you'll just burn through another battery. But yea do it yourself.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Where to look first?

Checked the battery and it sits around 12v before startup. On startup it drops below 9v then shoots back up to around 13v. When revved to around 4-5k its at a steady 13-14v. Instead of OEM I am looking into ricksmotorsports as it is a cheaper option and I've heard good things about them. My local dealer recommended getting new stator bolts because they said that its loctited from the factory by a strong compound. Do I need new bolts for the stator or can I just re-use the old ones?

Mods: Bauce Racing ECU Flash, PCV, Custom Dyno Tune, MJS Mid-Pipe, Graves Carbon Fiber Slip-On, Graves Smog Block Off Plates, Graves Bar Ends, Zero Gravity Double Bubble Windscreen, Woodcraft Front & Rear Axle Sliders, Woodcraft Cut Frame Sliders, Woodcraft Slider Spools, T-Rex Clutch Sliders, K&N Air Filter, Fender Eliminator, Motodynamic Integrated Taillight, Hot Bodies Flush Mount Turn Signals & Pazzo Levers.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-22-2016, 02:30 PM
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Re: Where to look first?

Quote:
Originally Posted by TubbsMcGee View Post
Checked the battery and it sits around 12v before startup. On startup it drops below 9v then shoots back up to around 13v. When revved to around 4-5k its at a steady 13-14v. Instead of OEM I am looking into ricksmotorsports as it is a cheaper option and I've heard good things about them. My local dealer recommended getting new stator bolts because they said that its loctited from the factory by a strong compound. Do I need new bolts for the stator or can I just re-use the old ones?
Per your tests you are pretty close to spec for charging voltage, how old is your current battery? Try to run the same test with a know good quality battery, general spec is over 14v at 5k rpms

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-23-2016, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Where to look first?

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Originally Posted by tdoss1980 View Post
Per your tests you are pretty close to spec for charging voltage, how old is your current battery? Try to run the same test with a know good quality battery, general spec is over 14v at 5k rpms
No idea how old the battery is, I bought the bike about 9 months ago and I haven't changed it yet. I tested it again and its around 14.5v at 5k rpms. I'm assuming the battery is fine and my problem is either my stator or rectifier. I might just go ahead and replace both of those. A friend of mine re-used the old stator bolts when he changed his so I'm not gonna spend the extra cash to get new stator bolts if its not needed.

Mods: Bauce Racing ECU Flash, PCV, Custom Dyno Tune, MJS Mid-Pipe, Graves Carbon Fiber Slip-On, Graves Smog Block Off Plates, Graves Bar Ends, Zero Gravity Double Bubble Windscreen, Woodcraft Front & Rear Axle Sliders, Woodcraft Cut Frame Sliders, Woodcraft Slider Spools, T-Rex Clutch Sliders, K&N Air Filter, Fender Eliminator, Motodynamic Integrated Taillight, Hot Bodies Flush Mount Turn Signals & Pazzo Levers.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-23-2016, 05:16 PM
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Re: Where to look first?

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Originally Posted by TubbsMcGee View Post
No idea how old the battery is, I bought the bike about 9 months ago and I haven't changed it yet. I tested it again and its around 14.5v at 5k rpms. I'm assuming the battery is fine and my problem is either my stator or rectifier. I might just go ahead and replace both of those. A friend of mine re-used the old stator bolts when he changed his so I'm not gonna spend the extra cash to get new stator bolts if its not needed.
I would say that indicates just the opposite. If it is charging at 14.5v @5K Rpm, then the stator and reg/rec seem to be doing their job! Start with a new battery.


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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-23-2016, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Where to look first?

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Originally Posted by 8Ball View Post
I would say that indicates just the opposite. If it is charging at 14.5v @5K Rpm, then the stator and reg/rec seem to be doing their job! Start with a new battery.
Ahh really? If the voltage was any lower than it would be one of those? I am gonna check the rectifier tonight as well as the stator and see how they measure up on the multi-meter. I just didn't want to buy a new battery only for it to be one of those that went defective.

Mods: Bauce Racing ECU Flash, PCV, Custom Dyno Tune, MJS Mid-Pipe, Graves Carbon Fiber Slip-On, Graves Smog Block Off Plates, Graves Bar Ends, Zero Gravity Double Bubble Windscreen, Woodcraft Front & Rear Axle Sliders, Woodcraft Cut Frame Sliders, Woodcraft Slider Spools, T-Rex Clutch Sliders, K&N Air Filter, Fender Eliminator, Motodynamic Integrated Taillight, Hot Bodies Flush Mount Turn Signals & Pazzo Levers.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-24-2016, 07:37 AM
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Re: Where to look first?

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Originally Posted by TubbsMcGee View Post
Ahh really? If the voltage was any lower than it would be one of those?....
Correct. The ONLY job of the stator and rectifier is to charge the battery at a regulated voltage at about 14.5 volts. Too high or too low and the issue would be one of those components.

The battery's job is to take that charge and hold it. If the battery is getting the correct charge, but the battery isn't keeping the charge, start with the battery.


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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 12-26-2016, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Where to look first?

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Originally Posted by 8Ball View Post
Correct. The ONLY job of the stator and rectifier is to charge the battery at a regulated voltage at about 14.5 volts. Too high or too low and the issue would be one of those components.

The battery's job is to take that charge and hold it. If the battery is getting the correct charge, but the battery isn't keeping the charge, start with the battery.
Checked the voltage again on the battery last night. Ran a few tests and it seemed to be sitting around 14ish when at 4-5k rpms. But at some points it would go over 14 to around 15. Maybe it was the way I was holding the multimeter but I'm assuming it should be at a steady 14.5 or around 14. Regardless, I ordered a shorai and will replace my current battery. If problem still persists I will just replace both the stator and rectifier.

Mods: Bauce Racing ECU Flash, PCV, Custom Dyno Tune, MJS Mid-Pipe, Graves Carbon Fiber Slip-On, Graves Smog Block Off Plates, Graves Bar Ends, Zero Gravity Double Bubble Windscreen, Woodcraft Front & Rear Axle Sliders, Woodcraft Cut Frame Sliders, Woodcraft Slider Spools, T-Rex Clutch Sliders, K&N Air Filter, Fender Eliminator, Motodynamic Integrated Taillight, Hot Bodies Flush Mount Turn Signals & Pazzo Levers.
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