I'm planning on changing the stock exhaust to a Leo Vince full exhaust, and at the same time I want to add the Bazzaz unit with the self tuning feature. My question is regarding the O2 sensor. Looking at the pictures of the Leo Vince exhaust, it looks like it already has an O2 bung welded on. I see that Bazzaz has their own oxygen bung... is this the same as the one that comes with the exhaust, or would it be a different size?
Also, when installing the Bazzaz unit, will I still be using the stock O2 sensor, or will I have to remove it and use the wideband AFR sensor?
Check out my sig....and yes it does already have a bung on the leo exhaust...and yes the wideband from bazzaz will screw right in and yes you have to use the wideband that comes with the ZAFM unit. Good to go? lol
he is correct. the leo comes with the 18x1.5 for the wideband sensor. The unit you're looking at is a hell of a unit for the bike also. We still have some of the leo full cf's at the old 2008 prices as well and in stock. Once you add the product to your cart you get a hell of a discount
Thanks for confirming Corey... and trust me, if i lived in the US i would've ordered the Leo Vince from you a long time ago (I still might order the bazzaz unit from you soon)
I've been reading around the forum a bit and I have a question regarding the smog block-off plates. From what I can tell I should install this in order to get a good air-fuel ratio reading, so I'm assuming i should do this when installing the bazzaz in order to get a good tune. Is this assumption correct, or should I leave the AIS as it is stock?
yes you do want the block off plates installed with the bazzaz to get a very accurate afr. You can do it w/o the block off plates, but the data won't be dead on accurate. still fairly accurate and better then a downloaded pc3 map, but not as good as it can be. I would highly advise you do the block offs with it.
Not a problem and if you need any help feel free to pm us or even call us (tue-sat when we are open). As you can tell we are still on the forums though on our days off lol.
I'm not corey, but higher is leaner. The ratio works like this. Technicially it should be typed out like this 13.0:1 That means 13 parts of air to 1 part of fuel. So the smaller the first number, the less air per fuel, thus richer.
What people mean when they say stock is 14.7:1 is the stoichiometric ratio. That means that this is the perfect ratio for complete combustion of all gasses and air. This DOES NOT mean it is what your ratio should be set at. 14.7 would be ideal in a perfect situation with perfect conditions...which will never happen in an engine. 13.2 would be good for the street. If you are going to use the Bazzaz suggestions alone and not mess with the calculations yourself, then i wouldn't go any higher than 13.5 for daily use. 13.7 for the track? That's a little high if you wanna keep your engine around. I would go lower for the track as you want to keep your engine together...somewhere around 12.8-13.0. If it were a track only bike where the engine would be trashed after a season, then yeah, you could go higher and make a little more power.
yes sir...i took some but they were shitty as it got dark and my garage doesn't have the best lighting....i'll get some as soon as i get home while there is still light out with the door open.
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