So I'm still having some issues with the jetting on my bike, and was wondering what everyone else is running. It's driving me nuts...

My mods/settings:

Yosh TRS slip-on
Ivan's jet kit
OEM & K&N air filters

Going from memory, but I think my needle clips are on the second notch, and my mixture screws are 2.75 turns out. Carbs have been synched, and I haven't checked my float levels.

Elevation is pretty close to sea level (Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada).


My issue is around 8000-9000 RPM, the bike feels like one or two cylinders miss temporarily. Power is reduced, and she sputters until she turns up a bit higher. I've tried running the mixture screws out to 3.25 turns out, and I've tried swapping my K&N filter for an OEM, and neither seems to fix the issue. If anything it currently runs better with the K&N, but not by a lot. It runs pretty well everywhere else in the RPM range, but 8-9K is a horrible spot to have a power loss.

Suggestions? Needles? Check the floats? Change the mixture? I haven't pulled the plugs recently, should I do so?

Cheers!

I was gonna post a thread similar to this but i forgot lol. hopefully we get a lot of people replying so this could be a first gen carb database. instead of power commander maps this is what we have...

anyway here are my mods:
Leo Vince slipon
Factory Pro 1.0 jet kit (with 152/148 main jets and stock pilot)
airbox modified (restrictor cut out, and the only air entering the box is from the air ducts up front and the side carb hoses.)
YEC pressurized float bowl clone mod

My jet kit settings are:
needles at the 5th notch, mixture screws at 3.5. float height set to 1mm higher. carbs synched about a week ago.

It was running very lean (plugs were white and there was surging at certain RPMs) so i raised the float level a bit which made it run much smoother. I still have a little tuning to do because I dont believe the needles should be on the 5th notch...

As for your problem Rad33, try lowering the clips on the needles so it runs a little richer. 8-9k is part of the RPM range that the needles heavily affect. Also if you pull your plugs and look at the color of the carbon buildup, it will give a good indication of how rich/lean your engine is running.

Still workin the bugs outta mine too.. It runs like a raped date at WOT all the way to the rev limiter. Breaks up a hair at part throttle when maintaining speed, and around 8k, I get a nice surge of power, and burping the gas shows a mild hesitation below 9k.

Motox is right, you should try to richen your needles.

My setup:
02 R6
HR1 Riot slip on running the baffle wide open
Factory Pro Velocity stacks
OEM air filter
Factory Pro 1.1Ti jet kit

Pilot screws 3.5 turns out
Needle clips are on the 3rd line from the top of the needle.
1100 Ft above sea level
Carbs never synch'd. Floats left as is.

Still workin the bugs outta mine too.. It runs like a raped date at WOT all the way to the rev limiter. Breaks up a hair at part throttle when maintaining speed, and around 8k, I get a nice surge of power, and burping the gas shows a mild hesitation below 9k.

Sounds just like my bike. Is it even possible to get a carbed bike to run well at low rpm/part throttle AND run very well at wide open throttle? Its like its either one or the other from what i've noticed :confused:

Sounds just like my bike. Is it even possible to get a carbed bike to run well at low rpm/part throttle AND run very well at wide open throttle? Its like its either one or the other from what i've noticed :confused:

Hahahaaha I'll let you know. I will definitely get it perfect with a little more effort. Personally, I think the real problem is us putting in these jet kits. None of em come with pilot jets, the needles have play in them, they dont sit nicely like the stock ones with the big cap at the top.

If I can't get it nice after adjusting the needles and going way rich on the pilot adjusters, I am going to order different pilot jets. I think there is only so far you can go by adjusting the screw. And then I'll go back to factory needles but will shim them up for finer adjust-ability. A guy who owns a reputable shop by me has told me a few times that the stock needles with shims are the only way to go.

So I finally got around to pulling the plugs today. If anything, I'd say it looks like I'm running rich. All four plugs looked identical. Not the nice tan color I'd like to see, and not white-ish indicating running lean, but slightly darker/sooty color. Still figure I should try going a bit richer on the needles?

So I finally got around to pulling the plugs today. If anything, I'd say it looks like I'm running rich. All four plugs looked identical. Not the nice tan color I'd like to see, and not white-ish indicating running lean, but slightly darker/sooty color. Still figure I should try going a bit richer on the needles?

It's hard to say. I would try going riche on the needles cause I feel like the bog is aused by that. Lookin at the plugs is a good way to see overall perormance/mixture.

The plug would really indicate your main jetting setting. Since that's what the bike really sees.

with the factory pro kit the guy from factory pro said their needles seem to be rich, but you have the ivans. Despite what the factory pro guys said I'm gonna try and go richer. I'm 1 clip from as lean as possible now

Looks like Im not the only person trying to figure this out haha

Full akro system
BMC highflow
Factory pro jet

2.5 out and clip on 5th down from top. It runs great 8K+ but bottom seems like it can do some work, occasional bog and crummy start from stop. just replaced plugs and the old one seems rich, carbon build up and one of them seems wet a bit, not too much. Im gonna try to move to fourth clip and see how it runs tomorrow.

Looks like Im not the only person trying to figure this out haha

Full akro system
BMC highflow
Factory pro jet

2.5 out and clip on 5th down from top. It runs great 8K+ but bottom seems like it can do some work, occasional bog and crummy start from stop. just replaced plugs and the old one seems rich, carbon build up and one of them seems wet a bit, not too much. Im gonna try to move to fourth clip and see how it runs tomorrow.

Let us know. I was thinking 5th clip?! Really? That's really rich, but with the BMC that just may be how it needs to be. How's it run with the BMC? I am finding my bike is running lean when it's cold out. I guess different/larger main jets before the fall comes..

So with the 4th clip it feels a bit dif but not by much around the mid. I guess it'll save me some MPGs. I found out 2 of my float needle were just not good and leaking fuel slooowly and I cleaned it up a bit and it has gotten better. Last week I opened the carb and looked to find pools of gas on top of the valve. The idle is better, no more hanging before dropping. Doing the blip test now show signs of being lean at idle so im gonna try and do 3 turns out and see how it goes. My exhaust decided to snap off at the collector too so its loud and I loosing power. Sounds great and runs like a mad man in high RPM though haha.

So with the 4th clip it feels a bit dif but not by much around the mid. I guess it'll save me some MPGs. I found out 2 of my float needle were just not good and leaking fuel slooowly and I cleaned it up a bit and it has gotten better. Last week I opened the carb and looked to find pools of gas on top of the valve. The idle is better, no more hanging before dropping. Doing the blip test now show signs of being lean at idle so im gonna try and do 3 turns out and see how it goes. My exhaust decided to snap off at the collector too so its loud and I loosing power. Sounds great and runs like a mad man in high RPM though haha.

3 turns seems to be the best bet. I wanna get bigger pilot jets. I don't think it will ever be smooth or perfect without a bigger jet. There's only so much turning the screw can do

I was wondering if running in cold weather will lean our bike out, like 60F. with windchill it must be like 50 something. I was running awesome this morning when it was nice and 80 out but on the way home from work it was 60 and it started to bog and lean pop from 3-7k rpm. works normal during WOT, maybe I should lower the needle back to 5...

yeah it will definitely lean the bike out. thats why carbs suck because they need tuning for significant changes in temperature

Need Help!
Recently aquired 01' CLE R6
Has shortened Yoshi TRS(has to be off a suzuki(4bolt connection to mid pipe))
K&N Filter
New plugs
Just put Factory Pro 1.1Ti in it
Screws 3 out
Needles on 3rd clip
Would set floats if I knew what Factory height was.
Runs like GARBAGE between 4&8k(spit, sputters, surges, stumbles)
Above 8k runs great, pulls like a banshee to redline.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Oh yeah, I'm @ sea level (Florida)

http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/pdf/99-02R6_Service_Manual.pdf

grab that and adjust the float height. try lowering needle to 4th clip. mine used to be on third and it would stumble a lot.

http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/pdf/99-02R6_Service_Manual.pdf

grab that and adjust the float height. try lowering needle to 4th clip. mine used to be on third and it would stumble a lot.

Thanks for the info. Guess no one knows the float measurement from the carb surface? I'll have to make a gauge to check the way it shows in the manual.

Thanks for the info. Guess no one knows the float measurement from the carb surface? I'll have to make a gauge to check the way it shows in the manual.

Ok, i found out what was killing me. 2 of the 4 pilot jets were restricted. After a thorough cleaning :nocontrol.
Final settings (til I get a chance to get her on a Dyno):
1- Pilot screw out 3.5(recommended max in the kit instructions is 5(think I
would go up 1 size before going 5 turns))
2- Pilot Jets stock 38
3- Needle clip #4
4- Main Jets 155 1-4, 152 2-3
5- Floats??? Close to stock as i can guage using a piece of hose with a
syringe used for measuring baby medicine.

Runs almost perfect. Still a little weak around 8k but liveable, everywhere else is smooth and strong :toocool:!

Thanks for the advice x0ny!

Thanks for the info. Guess no one knows the float measurement from the carb surface? I'll have to make a gauge to check the way it shows in the manual.

Ok, i found out what was killing me. 2 of the 4 pilot jets were restricted. After a thorough cleaning :nocontrol.
Final settings (til I get a chance to get her on a Dyno):
1- Pilot screw out 3.5(recommended max in the kit instructions is 5(think I
would go up 1 size before going 5 turns))
2- Pilot Jets stock 38
3- Needle clip #4
4- Main Jets 155 1-4, 150 2-3
5- Floats??? Close to stock as i can guage using a piece of hose with a
syringe used for measuring baby medicine.

Runs almost perfect. Still a little weak around 8k but liveable, everywhere else is smooth and strong :toocool:!

Thanks for the advice x0ny!

One more note. The needles that came with the Factory Pro kit were loose and bouncing around. Put a couple of those tiny washers that came with the kit on top of them and replaced the needle retainer. Not loose any more :D

One more note. The needles that came with the Factory Pro kit were loose and bouncing around. Put a couple of those tiny washers that came with the kit on top of them and replaced the needle retainer. Not loose any more :D

WErd. I'm gonna give this a go. And by replaced the needle retainer, are you talking about the c clip on the needle, or the green piece that clips on and holds the needle in place?

When you say 4th clip for the needle, is that the 4th clip down from the top of the needle as it sits in the carb?

WErd. I'm gonna give this a go. And by replaced the needle retainer, are you talking about the c clip on the needle, or the green piece that clips on and holds the needle in place?

When you say 4th clip for the needle, is that the 4th clip down from the top of the needle as it sits in the carb?

Retainer= green peice
4th clip position= 4th down
Keep me posted how this works for you.

Retainer= green peice
4th clip position= 4th down
Keep me posted how this works for you.

Will do. I got new bowl gaskets sittin in the garage, and it's time for cold weather rejetting. I'm hopin to get on this during the week, or next weekend if I have trouble finding bigger main jets

Ive got a question maybe you guys can help me with. as far as I know my carbs are factory. when its 80-90 degree's outside it has a hesitation/sputter around 10K at WOT but when its 60 or below it runs perfect through the hole range. is this somthing a synch would fix? thanks I know Ive talked to one or two of you about this already just wanted to get the most opinions possible right now since I dont have the time to rip the bike apart this week.

Ive got a question maybe you guys can help me with. as far as I know my carbs are factory. when its 80-90 degree's outside it has a hesitation/sputter around 10K at WOT but when its 60 or below it runs perfect through the hole range. is this somthing a synch would fix? thanks I know Ive talked to one or two of you about this already just wanted to get the most opinions possible right now since I dont have the time to rip the bike apart this week.

If it runs better when it's colder outside like you are saying, the bike is running rich. The colder air mass is denser, and allows the bike to squeeze more combustible air into the combustion chamber..

At 10k RPMS, the slides are open and you are running on your main jets. The synching sets the carbs up so the slides all open simultaneously. You'd notice more of a breaking up around 7-8k if the carbs were way out of sync.

With that being said, have you looked at your air filter at all? If not, it could be dirty and that is what's causing the rich condition you are describing.

If it runs better when it's colder outside like you are saying, the bike is running rich. The colder air mass is denser, and allows the bike to squeeze more combustible air into the combustion chamber..

At 10k RPMS, the slides are open and you are running on your main jets. The synching sets the carbs up so the slides all open simultaneously. You'd notice more of a breaking up around 7-8k if the carbs were way out of sync.

With that being said, have you looked at your air filter at all? If not, it could be dirty and that is what's causing the rich condition you are describing.

Air filter is only a month or two old (OEM from yamaha) however when I first synched the carbs it ran a lot better then I got caught in a rain storm a couple days later and parked the bike a few days after that I got back on it and noticed the problem then. dont know if the rain could have had anything to do with it but that happened a month or two ago.

I synched the carbs with a homeade machine. couldnt get it perfect but as close as I could. I changed the air filter the fuel filter and the spark plugs the same day before I synched. I changed the oil last week.

Any ideas on where to start?

Air filter is only a month or two old (OEM from yamaha) however when I first synched the carbs it ran a lot better then I got caught in a rain storm a couple days later and parked the bike a few days after that I got back on it and noticed the problem then. dont know if the rain could have had anything to do with it but that happened a month or two ago.

I synched the carbs with a homeade machine. couldnt get it perfect but as close as I could. I changed the air filter the fuel filter and the spark plugs the same day before I synched. I changed the oil last week.

Any ideas on where to start?

Mine has been running crappy after a diesel rainstorm I was in too. LOL. I just assume that some water came in thru the ram air tubes and hit the filter getting drawn thru and bringing some sediment in with it.. This should only jam up the pilot jets tho.. It's possible you jammed up some of the emulsion tubes for the main jets, but kinda unlikely..

You kinda got me wondering what could be your issue

what main jets are you guys using? This would also be helpful info. I just put the stock 152/148 set-up back in and its running much better cold/warm. before i was using Factory Pro's 155/150. ill update my main post with this new info

So, again, I'm spending winter days picking at the bike a bit.

When you guys are saying you're on the fourth clip/etc, are you referring to the fourth notch from the tapered end of the needle, or the fourth clip from the "stub" end of the needle?

Mine are currently in the middle notch (so third clip from either end), and they currently also have one shim.

I've still got that dead spot around 8000-9000 rpm. Which way will lean me out, and which way richens? I would asume moving the clips close to the tapered end of the needles will richen it? Correct?

So, again, I'm spending winter days picking at the bike a bit.

When you guys are psaying you're on the fourth clip/etc, are you referring to the fourth notch from the tapered end of the needle, or the fourth clip from the "stub" end of the needle?

Mine are currently in the middle notch (so third clip from either end), and they currently also have one shim.

I've still got that dead spot around 8000-9000 rpm. Which way will lean me out, and which way richens? I would asume moving the clips close to the tapered end of the needles will richen it? Correct?

Rad,
When referring to the clip it is always from the top down (i.e. 4th clip= 4th down from the top).
Also, what are your pilots screws set at? Mine didn't start to act right til I was 3+ turns out (currently 3.5 out, might go back to 3(lil rough around 7k)), still on 4th clip down though.
Have you cleaned the pilot jets yet? I was un-tunable until i cleaned mine. 2 of the 4 were almost completely clogged.

I'm running Factory Pro jets 155 (1&4 carbs), 152 (2&3 carbs).
K&N filter(runs better for me with my elevation and settings).
Yoshi TRS shorty.
Sea level elevation(Daytona Beach). 78 degrees today!

I'm running the Ivan's kit, so I've got 148's in all four, with 68/105 airs. Running the Ivan's needles, with the clips on the middle notch (third), plus a shim on each. Mixture screws are at 2 3/4 turns out. Plugs are showing a mild rich condition, if anything. Slip on Yosh pipe, and a K&N filter.

Runs good on the bottom end, just a bit of a stumble if I let it idle as low as it probably should. Terrible dead spot/miss around 8000rpms. Feels like one or two cylinders miss temporarily, and then once it rev's beyond that point, it runs strong again.

Thinking I may be running a bit rich at WOT around 8000rpm. Sound plausible?

running the ivansk kit with a yosh slip on and factory air filter.
needles 3rd from the top with both washers on top.
fuel screws 2 1/2 out. i live at sea level

pulls like a champ, a little slow below 6k if you just throttle on and it requires a blip of the throttle to start but it runs great. i think you guys who are having issues need to center the needle and go back to 2 1/2 on the screws and start from there. unless you are at a higher elevation

I'm at sea level as well, and have swapped to the same setting as you're using FW.

Needles on the 3rd notch, shims on top to take some of the extra slop out. Mix screws are 2 1/2 turns out.

The dead spot around 8000k is better, but not gone. The idle is terrible. If I try and idle it where it should be, it stumbles, stammers, and misses. Is there anything else that may be causing my issue(s). I've tried a number of carb settings now, swapped filters, etc, all to no avail. Is it possible I've got some bigger issue? Compression? Vacumn lines? Bad seal somewhere?

Well, had the motor out doing the 05' tranny swap to get 2nd gear back and I ran my pilots back in to 3 turns out instead of the 3.5 I was at before. Re-synced the carbs, and it runs like crap (poppin sputtering under 8k, wicked decel pop) again unless WOT. Gonna go back to the 3.5 turns and leave it.....

And my plugs were nearly perfect looking.
Didn't realize how a little .5 turn makes so much difference, nore how much I missed 2nd gear.

I finally decided to install a jet kit for My 02. I have a BMC Air filter and HR1 Riot slip-on. I purchased the Dynojet Kit Stage 1 and first went by the settings they provided.

Needles e-clip second slot from top with 2 washers
142 main jets 1&4, and 140 main jets 2&3 cylinders
Air mixture screws 2 turns out

After this it idled normal until It warmed up. Then the idle would hang around 3-4k RPM. Other than that it ran pretty good.

I PM'ed Chiefsmokedog for some advice and he informed me that 2 turns out on the mixture screws were stock. Which was weird when dynojet recommended that. So he suggested to turn them out 3.5 turns. I gave that a try but the idle still hung and actually lasted a bit longer before dropping somewhat.

For some reason I decided to try 4 turns out thinking it would help on the hanging idle, but this time it stayed idling around 3-4K. So I decided instead of tearing her apart again since it was getting dark and didn't have any light I decided to adjust the Idle Knob to lower the idle down to 1500-1750 RPM. Keep in mind the bike was already warmed up. After the adjustment and a blip of the throttle, it responded instantly and dropped back to normal RPM instantly. :toocool:

Going to take her for a spin tomorrow and see what the actual results are. Hopefully I got it set :sing

Final Settings are:
BMC Air Filter, HR1 Riot Slip-on
Dynojet kit Stage 1
Needles, e-clip second slot from top, 2 washers above e-clip
142 main jet 1&4, 140 main jet 2&3 Cylinders
Idle mixture screws 4 turns out.
Also roughly around 505 above sea level

PS: I would like to give thanks to Chiefsmokedog for some good advice!
I present you with a e-beer!
:cheers

Well, had the motor out doing the 05' tranny swap to get 2nd gear back and I ran my pilots back in to 3 turns out instead of the 3.5 I was at before. Re-synced the carbs, and it runs like crap (poppin sputtering under 8k, wicked decel pop) again unless WOT. Gonna go back to the 3.5 turns and leave it.....

And my plugs were nearly perfect looking.
Didn't realize how a little .5 turn makes so much difference, nore how much I missed 2nd gear.

Update: 5/13/11
Back to 3.75 turns on the piolts and its as close to perfect as I can get it w/o going to a dyno. Wish i could get this 8k thing figured out....
Oh wait, if i just run WOT through 8K I'm good. :lmao

I've got my carbs pulled off again. I've tried the mix screws, I've tried adjusting needles, all to no avail.

Anyone have a how-to that'll show me how to pull them apart further to make sure there are no plugged jets or something else I'm missing?

I've got my carbs pulled off again. I've tried the mix screws, I've tried adjusting needles, all to no avail.

Anyone have a how-to that'll show me how to pull them apart further to make sure there are no plugged jets or something else I'm missing?

The 02 thread in my signature has pics of the cleaning process.


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I got dynojet stage 3 installing as we speak.

K&N filter. Yosh TRC c/f slip on.

Anyone here running a timing advancer? If so which one and where did you buy it?

I know they make a big difference on the fuel injected bikes but not sure if its worth it on the carb'd R6. I run 98 octane fuel.

Anyone here running a timing advancer? If so which one and where did you buy it?

I know they make a big difference on the fuel injected bikes but not sure if its worth it on the carb'd R6. I run 98 octane fuel.

I dunno if anyone other than factory pro makes em. On the at gen r6 it's more effective than on the newer bikes cause the carb'd bike is timed to run on 85 octane. Runnin 98 octane will allow u to run 6 degrees of advance or more!!!!

^Cheers!
Are you running one?

^Cheers!
Are you running one?

I wanted one, but last year when I called them, they told me they were indefinitely back ordered. Somethin about their tool and die contractor getting into business with smith & wesson. If u get one lemme kno! I did promise myself no more spending on the old bike, but rules are made to be broken! :laugh

I wanted one, but last year when I called them, they told me they were indefinitely back ordered. Somethin about their tool and die contractor getting into business with smith & wesson. If u get one lemme kno! I did promise myself no more spending on the old bike, but rules are made to be broken! :laugh

ha the spending never ends :nono
Will let you know if I get one.

LOL, Ign Adv rocks! Found 1 with a LONG and drawn out search (email notices and all). Called Factory Pro too, they said 60-90 days until they would possibly be making more....... this was awhile ago. Finally in a last stitch effort, tried mis-spelling a letter or 2 in searches and found a guy in Cali. that had 1 left in stock for $50 shipped. YAY!

After the install the 7-8k cruise suk'ed again until after I opened the pilot screwez to over 3.5 turns out. WOT is all you can ask for but cruisin @ 7-8k is rough unless ur doing 70+, then the ram air kinda smooths it out a bit but not perfect. But WOT is smooth through all revs and it pulls like HELL @WOT!
Best $50 I've spent on a performance mod.......

It does run a little warmer but I put Engine Ice in right before this and the temp after the install went back to avg running temp with regular antifreeze (between 170 and 180 unless sitting still). I live in Florida, so I can live with that for sure....

Good luck on the search for 1.........:toocool:

Ive been speaking with the Aussie factory pro dealer and he's telling me factory pro are only making -2 and +2 retarders/advancers!!! Seems a bit strange to me.

Shush319 which one did you go with, +4 or +6? Im keen to find one now.

Ive been speaking with the Aussie factory pro dealer and he's telling me factory pro are only making -2 and +2 retarders/advancers!!! Seems a bit strange to me.

Shush319 which one did you go with, +4 or +6? Im keen to find one now.

+4 and running 2.9ish gear ratio 16/47 (more top end, slower take off). 3.00 is stock, 16/48, which i'm going back to when I get the chance to switch the rear back (got the bike with -1/-1 from stock, weird right...).

Check this chart for gear ratios:
http://srs6.com/gearratiochart.html
2nd gear about 50mph and snatch it and it will flip you if your not careful.

Damn, I want one even more now...

^^:werd:toocool:

Might want to check with Factory Pro to get an eta on when they will have them again.

Ok guys, im suffering from the 6k-8kish hesitation problem. As I roll it on it hesitates a bit then comes good and pulls to redline.

Carbs are clean and in sync. Stock jetting. Only thing I can think of is that the pilot screws are only 2.5 turns out. Will turning them out to 3.5 help with this problem?

Thanks.

P.S you can buy the ign advancer here:
http://www.mypartshouse.com/FactoryPro-IGNITION-ADVANCERS-detail.htm?productId=7864366

What would you guys reccomend? 4+ 5+ or 6+
I run 98 octane fuel but occasionally have to put in 95.

Ok guys, im suffering from the 6k-8kish hesitation problem. As I roll it on it hesitates a bit then comes good and pulls to redline.

Carbs are clean and in sync. Stock jetting. Only thing I can think of is that the pilot screws are only 2.5 turns out. Will turning them out to 3.5 help with this problem?

Thanks.

P.S you can buy the ign advancer here:
http://www.mypartshouse.com/FactoryPro-IGNITION-ADVANCERS-detail.htm?productId=7864366

What would you guys reccomend? 4+ 5+ or 6+
I run 98 octane fuel but occasionally have to put in 95.

If u run 98 octane u would be fine with the +6 but if u end up runnin 92-93, u could get pinging from detonation.

Regarding the 6-8k hesitation, if u are 1/4 throttle and about when it happens, u need to adjust your needles. What line are the clips on if u have a jet kit?


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If u run 98 octane u would be fine with the +6 but if u end up runnin 92-93, u could get pinging from detonation.

Regarding the 6-8k hesitation, if u are 1/4 throttle and about when it happens, u need to adjust your needles. What line are the clips on if u have a jet kit?


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I dont have a jet kit (that I know of). From memory the jets on 1 and 4 are 142's. 2 and 3 are 140's. Needles are on the middle setting. This is how the bike was when I bought it. Ive installed a uni filter and micron slip on. Perhasps this has thrown the tuning out a bit. The bike does sound a little lean on deacceleration after a hard run.
It doesnt seem to matter what the throttle position is. Can be 1/4 or WOT it still hesitats around the 6-8k range then comes good and hauls ass. :toocool:

Thanks your your help.

I dont have a jet kit (that I know of). From memory the jets on 1 and 4 are 142's. 2 and 3 are 140's. Needles are on the middle setting. This is how the bike was when I bought it. Ive installed a uni filter and micron slip on. Perhasps this has thrown the tuning out a bit. The bike does sound a little lean on deacceleration after a hard run.
It doesnt seem to matter what the throttle position is. Can be 1/4 or WOT it still hesitats around the 6-8k range then comes good and hauls ass. :toocool:

Thanks your your help.

If the needles have the clips on them and the grooves to make them adjustable, you most likely have a jet kit. Maybe you need to move the clip even lower by one line. That would be pretty darn rich tho. I guess maybe the uni filter is that much of a difference..

Now that I think of it I dont think there were clips or groves on the needles (I was thing of my motorcross bike earlier). Im wondering if its worth throwing the stock exhaust back on to see if it makes it better. That way Ill know if its just a minor tuning problem.

Adjusting the pilot screws wont help me will it?

Hey guys
Just took my carbs off for the first time and cleaned them and drilled the pilot caps out. No jet kit. Bike has a K&N filter that is kinda dirty and looks old. It also has a yoshi slip on. I cleaned everything and put it back together and turned the pilots to 2.5 instead of the stock 2 turns out. Now I am getting horrible horrible horrible hesitation between 6k and 8k. It doesn't hesitate all the time though which is weird. The cleaning made a great difference in idle consistency and it also runs a lot smoother and just overall better. Anyway, so my hesitation is so bad that when it happens I am not able to even get it past 8k and the whole bike jerks back and forth. Doesn't matter if it is 1/4 throttle or full throttle. But like I said, the hesitation isn't always there. Is there some chance that the carbs got metal shavings from drilling out the pilot cover in them? Any ideas? Also, I don't really want to do a jet kit because they are overpriced in my mind. So i was thinking of slipping a washer over each needle. I want to hear opinions on this as well. Thanks guys!

Hey guys
Just took my carbs off for the first time and cleaned them and drilled the pilot caps out. No jet kit. Bike has a K&N filter that is kinda dirty and looks old. It also has a yoshi slip on. I cleaned everything and put it back together and turned the pilots to 2.5 instead of the stock 2 turns out. Now I am getting horrible horrible horrible hesitation between 6k and 8k. It doesn't hesitate all the time though which is weird. The cleaning made a great difference in idle consistency and it also runs a lot smoother and just overall better. Anyway, so my hesitation is so bad that when it happens I am not able to even get it past 8k and the whole bike jerks back and forth. Doesn't matter if it is 1/4 throttle or full throttle. But like I said, the hesitation isn't always there. Is there some chance that the carbs got metal shavings from drilling out the pilot cover in them? Any ideas? Also, I don't really want to do a jet kit because they are overpriced in my mind. So i was thinking of slipping a washer over each needle. I want to hear opinions on this as well. Thanks guys!



Definitely shim the needles up, so they are lifted out of the bowl more.

Also, it will happen more when the engine is cold than when it is hot. I'm sure when it didn't happen the bike was hot and the carbs were heat soaked, which richened it up for you.

Shim those needles and you'll see an improvement.

Do they have to be specific shims/washers or is it something you can find at a hardware store?

Update: 5/13/11
Back to 3.75 turns on the piolts and its as close to perfect as I can get it w/o going to a dyno. Wish i could get this 8k thing figured out....
Oh wait, if i just run WOT through 8K I'm good. :lmao

Update: 6/11/11

I got back into them again yesterday. Compared the OE needles with the Factory Pro(FP) needles. The OE has a much sharper point than the FP, so I did some measuring. The OE with a .55 mm shim is as close to exact in length as the FP on the 4th clip down as i can measure. So I put the OE back in with the .55mm shim synced the carbs (they were off by a little since I last synced them last August) and went for a ride.

The power feels good with the normal flat spot between 8-9k. The stumble i was getting between 6-8k cruise and is much better but not gone completely. This seems to be a step in the right direction. Maybe another shim....... we'll see....
Stay TUNED!

Do they have to be specific shims/washers or is it something you can find at a hardware store?

You may be able to get them at a hardware store. I am uploading pics of the measurements of the shims that came with my Factory Pro jet kit.

You may be able to get them at a hardware store. I am uploading pics of the measurements of the shims that came with my Factory Pro jet kit.
Outside:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h122/shush319/IMAG0529.jpg
Inside:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h122/shush319/IMAG0530.jpg
thickness should be around .50 to .60 mm

Slush319 you are a frikken legend.
Ive got the 6-8k hesitation, doesnt seem to matter what the throttle position is. Maybe I should start with 2 shims.

Its as simple as slipping these shims over the needles?

Slush319 you are a frikken legend.
Ive got the 6-8k hesitation, doesnt seem to matter what the throttle position is. Maybe I should start with 2 shims.

Its as simple as slipping these shims over the needles?

Yes, just pull the needles and slide the shims on and put the needle back in. I think they use .50mm to give some fine tuneability.

Hey guys, little update on my situation.
I was suffering from the 6-8k hesitation. Stock (Aussie spec)bike with a micron slip on and uni filter.

I decided to shim the needles as Shush reccomended. Couldnt buy the correct size washes so I had to modify the closest I could get. No biggie. In doing so I noticed the needles had been mixed up at some stage of the bikes life. They were in the following order:
1. n7sa
2. n7ra
3. n7sa
4. n7ra

They should be:
1. n7ra
2. n7sa
3. n7sa
4. n7ra

So I put them back in the correct order and installed the shims/washes aswell, and im glad to say it has made a huge difference. The 6-8k flat spot is barely noticeable, you wouldnt be able to tell unless you were really feeling for it. I used 0.8mm shims and I think I could have gone slightly thicker again, maybe 1mm. But Im happy with how it is untill I get it onto the dyno. Thinking I need to go up in the main jets aswell.

I also wanted to turn the pilot screws out to 3 turns, they are currently 2.25, but they are such a pain in the ass to get at I didnt bother. The dyno will tell me if I really need to.

So cheers to everyone who helped

Hey guys, little update on my situation.
I was suffering from the 6-8k hesitation. Stock (Aussie spec)bike with a micron slip on and uni filter.

I decided to shim the needles as Shush reccomended. Couldnt buy the correct size washes so I had to modify the closest I could get. No biggie. In doing so I noticed the needles had been mixed up at some stage of the bikes life. They were in the following order:
1. n7sa
2. n7ra
3. n7sa
4. n7ra

They should be:
1. n7ra
2. n7sa
3. n7sa
4. n7ra

So I put them back in the correct order and installed the shims/washes aswell, and im glad to say it has made a huge difference. The 6-8k flat spot is barely noticeable, you wouldnt be able to tell unless you were really feeling for it. I used 0.8mm shims and I think I could have gone slightly thicker again, maybe 1mm. But Im happy with how it is untill I get it onto the dyno. Thinking I need to go up in the main jets aswell.

I also wanted to turn the pilot screws out to 3 turns, they are currently 2.25, but they are such a pain in the ass to get at I didnt bother. The dyno will tell me if I really need to.

So cheers to everyone who helped

:beerchug:beerchug:beerchug

Glad to hear it is running better. I will be getting back into mine tomorrow after work to add another shim also. Should put me around 1mm maybe .10 over that. I'll post the results.

Wanted to mention... (I remember reading this on Factory Pro's website somewhere awhile ago)
When tuning carbs, the main jets have to be right FIRST. If you don't get the right mains first, everything else is pretty much going to have to change again after you do get the right jets. If you have never installed a jet kit or read the tuning instructions, they follow in order like this:
1. Main jets
2. Adjust Needles
3. Adjust Float Height (if necessary)
4. Adjust Pilot Screws

If you don't follow that order, you will have to go back and do steps 2,3,4 again when the jets are changed.

Thats interesting. So by going to larger mains if might make my midrange 100% without touching the needles again. Ill run it on the dyno in the next couple of weeks and go from there.

Just got back from test ride after adding 1 more shim to the needles. Seem a lot smoother nearly everywhere but 8-8 1/2k.

No hesitation anywhere throughout the entire rev range when applying full throttle or just a blip. Best it has run since I have had it.

so your now running 2x 0.5mm shims, totaling 1.0mm?

Booked in for a dyno run on Fri 24th.

so your now running 2x 0.5mm shims, totaling 1.0mm?

Booked in for a dyno run on Fri 24th.

Only had .60mm shims, so I'm @ 1.15mm. May be different for individual situations (elevation, temp, ect.).

I live @ sea level, temp is in the high 80's-low 90's and dry. Bike has +4 ignition advancer, Factory Pro 1.1TI jet kit (minus their needles of course), Factory Pro Velocity Stacks, K&N Filter, and a really short Yoshi TRS from a 03ish GSXR 750. Since I have all that extra air flowing, I ended up with 155 main jets 1-4 and 152's in 2-3.

Your situation may vary from mine but you can perhaps use my experiences to help you in which way to go with yours.

Definetly helps thanks mate. My bike is stock with just the uni filter and micron slip on. Just the slip on was enough to make it lean out at 6-8k so I suggest everyone with a slip on go at with a 0.5mm - 1.0mm shim on the needles.
What do you think of the Velocity stacks? Do they make a noticable difference?

And im so frustrated that I cant find an ignition advancer haha.

V-stacks just helped smooth everything out @ WOT, maybe a small performance increase, but the ign adv was noticeable power increase.

V-stacks just helped smooth everything out @ WOT, maybe a small performance increase, but the ign adv was noticeable power increase.

Just a note.. The velocity stacks richen the bike quite a bit. Like a few jet sizes iirc. That info is on FP's black hole of a website somewhere...


Sent from my iPhone using Motorcycle.com forum app

Just a note.. The velocity stacks richen the bike quite a bit. Like a few jet sizes iirc. That info is on FP's black hole of a website somewhere...


Sent from my iPhone using Motorcycle.com forum app


:werd You know, I kinda remember reading that once upon a time too, now that you mention it.
:lmao The FP BLACK HOLE! Fell in that bish a few times.....

I'm going to leave out the gory details about the why and jump right into it. I've got an 02 that I just put back together. An unknown prior to this. Starts beautifully and runs strong in 1st and 2nd from idle to red line. Third gear falls off a bit and any gear higher just stumbles and barely accels regardless of throttle position until around 10k. From there to red line pulls great. Plugs looked normal to slightly lean but only put a little over 100 miles on them. Pulled the carbs today and WTF?? Check this out:

D&D slip on
K&N filter
FP V-stacks
FP ignition advance +4
Jet kit - unknown brand

Main jets: 130 - 1&4; 128 - 2&3
Clip on needle: 4th - 1&4; 5th - 2&3
0 shims on 1
1 shim on 2
2 shims on 3&4
Pilot: Jet - 38
1.5 turns out

Going to clean and reassemble back to a "best guess" starting point. This should be interesting!

Everything looks ok except for the shims! WTF is with the shims? Go with 1 shim on each, leave the clips where they are. That explains why it runs like crap until it come onto the main jets. Id adjust that pilot screw out to 2.5 turns aswell. Should run sweet then.

Oh and you definetly need to sell that ign advancer to me :sing

Everything looks ok except for the shims! WTF is with the shims? Go with 1 shim on each, leave the clips where they are.

Oh and you definetly need to sell that ign advancer to me :sing

No problem man, it's yours. Just PM me your credit card info and I'll send it your way pronto! :D

As far as the clips go, I think I'll start with them (all of them) in the 4th groove unless someone can tell me WHY I should do anything different. Shims? On top of the clip? Do they serve any purpose other than taking up slack between the needle clip and retainer? I think not. So, with that in mind, I feel the number is irrelevant so long as the slop on each needle is minimized and the same. Two and a half turns out on the pilot screw sounds like a good starting point to me.

Not trying to step on any ones toes here but I don't blindly follow anybody's suggestions. Give me some sound reasoning or else I draw my own conclusions and run with that. I'd also be the first to admit when those conclusions turn out to be wrong.

I'm going to leave out the gory details about the why and jump right into it. I've got an 02 that I just put back together. An unknown prior to this. Starts beautifully and runs strong in 1st and 2nd from idle to red line. Third gear falls off a bit and any gear higher just stumbles and barely accels regardless of throttle position until around 10k. From there to red line pulls great. Plugs looked normal to slightly lean but only put a little over 100 miles on them. Pulled the carbs today and WTF?? Check this out:

D&D slip on
K&N filter
FP V-stacks
FP ignition advance +4
Jet kit - unknown brand

Main jets: 130 - 1&4; 128 - 2&3
Clip on needle: 4th - 1&4; 5th - 2&3
0 shims on 1
1 shim on 2
2 shims on 3&4
Pilot: Jet - 38
1.5 turns out

Going to clean and reassemble back to a "best guess" starting point. This should be interesting!

Hopefully you have read posts in the beginning of this thread. If not, we'll start here:
I live in Daytona so, exact same elevation, temp(maybe 3-4 deg hotter here), ect.

Your jets are really small! Even smaller than stock, 152 for 1-4 carbs, 148 for 2-3 carbs is stock. So your bike is starving for fuel! Keep running that lean and you may want to start looking for a replacement engine.....
Not tryin to be an azz or anything, but I have never heard of anyone running jets that small in these bikes.

I have almost all the same mods to mine(different pipe), but wound up putting the OEM needles back in with 2X .55mm ish shims under each needle to get close to where it needs to be(still not right, but close). Pilot screws are at 3.5 turns out, and I think I may go to next size up next week. Cant really get any more from turning them out any further.

I'm running Factory Pro 1.1TI jet kit in mine, and wound up using the 155 jets for 1-4 carbs, and the 150 jets for 2-3 carbs. Runs like a raped ape at wide open throttle. Only issue I am still trying to tweak our is like 7-8k cruise is rougher than I would like, but I am almost there.

This Information is not gospel by any means, but I have been playing with different things for awhile now and it is running better than it ever has since I've owned it.

You might want to start back at the beginning of this thread and see what others have posted about their own personal settings and issues. You will see a common problem here, just sayin'......

Yep, I've read this thread (every post) at least half a dozen times. Got a lot of useful information from it. The only thing that puzzles me about the jets is why it runs so strong at WOT above 10k when the jets are so small. Still going to put the larger jets in and go from there. Like I said, a best guess starting point. Thanks for the input.

Keep cyl 2&3 leaner on the needles than 1&4, its done for a reason. Not sure if everyone knows this but with the stock headers cyl 1&4 flow more then 2&3. Hence 1& 4 need more fuel.

Shims on the needles are lifting the needles out of the fuel bowls earlier, letting more fuel through, running the bike richer. My bike is happy with stock needles and 0.7-0.8mm shims. So no the shims dont just take the slop out of the needles, they richen the bike through the mid range, same as adjusting the clips.

I understand you dont want to take someones advice off the net, but Shush is pretty much an expert in this field, and Ive been experimenting with my bike for the last 2 months. Finally got it running spot on, its going on the dyno on fri for its final ratio check. So what we are saying is not word of mouth, its based on experience.

All the best, hope you get it running right.

Yep, I've read this thread (every post) at least half a dozen times. Got a lot of useful information from it. The only thing that puzzles me about the jets is why it runs so strong at WOT above 10k when the jets are so small. Still going to put the larger jets in and go from there. Like I said, a best guess starting point. Thanks for the input.

It runs good on the main jets cause the exhaust and air filter allow a TON more fuel to be drawn out of the jets. This is why they are smaller than stock, but work great. The saving grace is also the Velocity stacks. They richen the bike a bit as well.

Having your needles shimmed all unevenly is a poor idea. Set the clips to 4 lines down from the flat part/top of the needle and go 2.25-2.5 turns out on the pilot adjustement screws. Start from there. Washers on top of the clip on the needle is a good idea and cannot hurt. That will take some play out of them. If you have the adjustable needles, which you said you do, you do not need to shim them below the c clip unless you need to be between adjustment of the lines.

Thanks Chief. That sounds like solid reasoning. I knew some of the mods would richen it up a bit but was unsure if the jets would need to be that small. Yeah, the needles being uneven was how I found it. Not good. Like I said, this bike was an unknown when I bought it a couple months ago. Thanks again.

Thanks Chief. That sounds like solid reasoning. I knew some of the mods would richen it up a bit but was unsure if the jets would need to be that small. Yeah, the needles being uneven was how I found it. Not good. Like I said, this bike was an unknown when I bought it a couple months ago. Thanks again.

:cheers

Let us know how it runs after you make the changes.

Ok just got back from my dyno run. In a nutshell this is what the tuner said/wrote down on the print outs.

Bike is way to lean and out of sync at idle. Even though sync was fine when I checked it after assembly.

Bike is way to rich when cruising at 60-100km/hr, so to rich when on the needles.

From 10K through to red line its spot on. Cruising at 200km/h is spot on ;)

My summary, to lean on the pilots, way to rich on needles, spot on on the mains. Obviously they overlap each other but that the starting point.

His reccomendation:
Sync carbies
Wind the pilot screws out to 3.5 turns.
Remove the 0.7mm shims from under the needles. Possibly buy aftermarket needles and needle jets as these may be worn, therefore you cant meter the fuel. Good point considering the bikes done over 50 000km's.

This guy is working off a perfect fuel ration of 13:1
Opinions?

Okay, after a couple of weeks of beating my head against a wall this is what I've got. Bike runs beautiful except for a slight stumble just off idle to about 2k rpm. Should be able to cure that after some more tweaking. My major problem before was the bike ran very lean at anything below 10k rpm. Nothing I did seemed to help. The problem turned out to be that the carbs had none of the plumbing for the bowl vents or balance tubes. They were just vented to the atmosphere under the airbox. I figured it couldn't make that much difference. Man was I wrong! I bought the fittings and lines and reconnected everything. All of a sudden it was a different bike. I was able to do in one afternoon what I was unable to do for 2 weeks. Tune this thing! This may be common knowledge for some but it was a learning curve for me. Make sure all of your plumbing from the carbs to the airbox is connected and routed properly. It DOES make a difference. Here is what I ended up with so far:

Needles on 4th groove
142/140 jets
38 pilot
2.25 turns out

Going to 2.5 turns out on the pilots will probably clear up that 2k rpm stumble, if it doesn't at least help, look into float settings. I'm glad to hear you got it all hooked up right. These vacuum slide carbs (CV/Constant velocity) are super specific with the hoses. Flat slide carbs on this bike would make it into a downright MONSTER.. Always wanted a set. Anyway, post a pic up so people can have something for reference. I got some in my 02 thread, but thats a novel now. lol

I see you went bigger on the jets too. I just got 40 pilots in the mail the other day, gonna go put them in in a few minutes. Got the bigger pilots because mine at anything less than 1/4 throttle cruise has a little surging and even some popping, indicating a lean condition.

You should turn the mixture screws out to about 3.5 turns and your low end should clean up nice. Never even would have guessed that you were missing hoses and chit. Some people should never pick up a wrench or screwdriver (your bike's previous owner for example).

Glad to hear your still somewhat sane after bashing your head against the wall so much. And good to hear it is running better too.:toocool:

Found some good information over at factorypro.com, just have to dig deep to find it.

Check out:
factorypro.com, then click on "Product support" at the top, then click "Motorcycle Tuning", then "CV Carb Tuning", then "High RPM Engine", then after you blow your mind reading all of that like ten times(LOL, thats what I did), go to step 4 and you will see in little blue letters "pj tuning information" check what the factory pro rep says about pilot jets.

Happy reading........

Glad to hear ppl are having success.

Update on mine:
As reccomended by the dyno tuner I wound the pilots out to 3.5 turns and took the .8 shims off the needles. The bottom end is better but I think 3.0 turns would have been better. Because I removed the shims the bike now has the minor 6-8k splutter again. So I would like to try 0.3-0.5mm shims. Cant find any.

Speaking of carb vents, has anyone here done the carb vent mod where you take the pressure from the front of the ram air (rather than the airbox) to pressurise the float bowls. It is supposed to force more fuel into the bike then the standard setup.

P.S I finally found a +4 advancer but it is their last one. Im thinking of having a few made by a local engineer to replicate the factory pro one im getting. That way I can sell them to others who cant find one.

Glad to hear ppl are having success.

Update on mine:
As reccomended by the dyno tuner I wound the pilots out to 3.5 turns and took the .8 shims off the needles. The bottom end is better but I think 3.0 turns would have been better. Because I removed the shims the bike now has the minor 6-8k splutter again. So I would like to try 0.3-0.5mm shims. Cant find any.

Speaking of carb vents, has anyone here done the carb vent mod where you take the pressure from the front of the ram air (rather than the airbox) to pressurise the float bowls. It is supposed to force more fuel into the bike then the standard setup.

P.S I finally found a +4 advancer but it is their last one. Im thinking of having a few made by a local engineer to replicate the factory pro one im getting. That way I can sell them to others who cant find one.

Careful with the P.S. I'm sure they have a patent on it and will sue u for copying and selling their chit.

New note, my chit is running like :YEA and feels a little like :hump and maybe a little :flex:, just sayin!

*** them, their not even making them and cant tell us when they will be making them again.

alright guys, I need a little bit of help finishing my tuning. I got an Ivan's jet kit, all settings adjusted according to his little manual. The problem is a bad hesitation from like 4.5k to 7.5k under 1/4 throttle or more. The more throttle the worse. Needles are on the 3rd notch from the top (the middle notch for those that don't know what the top is). 2.75 turns out on the screws because that seemed to be better but I could be wrong. Anything below 4.5k seems better than it has ever been. Any ideas? I am running a K&N filter currently but have a stock one on the way. Ivan won't even talk to me till I get the OEM filter in, so whatever. I am like 99% sure it isn't a filter problem. HELP!!!!!

My 99 R6 carb settings/mods

Dan Moto shorty carbon fiber moto gp slip on.
Oem air filter
Needles shimmed .1mm
2.5 turns out on the pilots
Stock main jets
Stock Pilots
Stock float height
Bypassed coolant lines
At sea level

She runs great through out the rpm range. :)

I started out with a k&n air filter and these settings and could not get her tuned right (terrible flat spot from 6-8k). As soon as I ditched the k&n for the oem filter she came alive!

Thanks everyone for sharing!
Kawdog/Nick

alright guys, I need a little bit of help finishing my tuning. I got an Ivan's jet kit, all settings adjusted according to his little manual. The problem is a bad hesitation from like 4.5k to 7.5k under 1/4 throttle or more. The more throttle the worse. Needles are on the 3rd notch from the top (the middle notch for those that don't know what the top is). 2.75 turns out on the screws because that seemed to be better but I could be wrong. Anything below 4.5k seems better than it has ever been. Any ideas? I am running a K&N filter currently but have a stock one on the way. Ivan won't even talk to me till I get the OEM filter in, so whatever. I am like 99% sure it isn't a filter problem. HELP!!!!!

I just saw your post. If you have a 1st gen, you have to get rid of that k&n. I don't think anyone has ever been able to tune a fairly stock 1st gen with a k&n air filter. Our bikes just don't like them.

I did not believe it at first either until I tried it. Read my post above this one.

Let us know how she runs when you get your oem filter installed.

Kawdog/Nick

Glad to hear ppl are having success.

Update on mine:
As reccomended by the dyno tuner I wound the pilots out to 3.5 turns and took the .8 shims off the needles. The bottom end is better but I think 3.0 turns would have been better. Because I removed the shims the bike now has the minor 6-8k splutter again. So I would like to try 0.3-0.5mm shims. Cant find any.

Speaking of carb vents, has anyone here done the carb vent mod where you take the pressure from the front of the ram air (rather than the airbox) to pressurise the float bowls. It is supposed to force more fuel into the bike then the standard setup.

P.S I finally found a +4 advancer but it is their last one. Im thinking of

having a few made by a local engineer to replicate the factory pro one im getting. That way I can sell them to others who cant find one.

I just saw your post. If you have not found the shims yet. Radio shack has the .5mm shims. They sell a bag of small assorted washers. I think its the smallest washers they sell and they should only be $1 or $2. I did have to drill out the washer a tiny bit to make it fit but they worked great.

I just saw your post. If you have a 1st gen, you have to get rid of that k&n. I don't think anyone has ever been able to tune a fairly stock 1st gen with a k&n air filter. Our bikes just don't like them.

I did not believe it at first either until I tried it. Read my post above this one.

Let us know how she runs when you get your oem filter installed.

Kawdog/Nick

I managed to get mine running nearly perfect with a K&N, took the carbs out like a dozen times over the last year to get it right but it runs awesome now! Most people don't have the patience it takes to get it worked out with the K&N, I think.

Update with FINAL settings:

FP +4 ignition adv
FP Vstacks
FP 1.1ti Jet Kit
155 jets in 1&4, and 152's in 2&3
Put OE needles back in with .55mm shims under them
*** went up to 40 pilots*** and back to 2.5 turns out on the screws(due to bigger pilots)
Floats are stock height
Running K&N Filter
Short azz Yoshi TRS (8.5" can)

This thing is as smooth as butter through out the rev range, no surging or popping at steady cruise at any RPM. No unbearable popping during heavy engine braking.
The bigger pilots made all the issues I was having go by by. :YEA

Update with FINAL settings:

FP +4 ignition adv
FP Vstacks
FP 1.1ti Jet Kit
155 jets in 1&4, and 152's in 2&3
Put OE needles back in with .55mm shims under them
*** went up to 40 pilots*** and back to 2.5 turns out on the screws(due to bigger pilots)
Floats are stock height
Running K&N Filter
Short azz Yoshi TRS (8.5" can)

This thing is as smooth as butter through out the rev range, no surging or popping at steady cruise at any RPM. No unbearable popping during heavy engine braking.
The bigger pilots made all the issues I was having go by by. :YEA

I'm a huge fan of changing the pilots. If you want super smooth that's the only way to go! :fact

Looks like I need to change the pilots. Ive got the pilot screw 3.5 turn out but I think its to rich. Theres a slight hesitation when I build the revs to ride the clutch out. Once its past that hesitation its all sweet. Might just try turning them back to 3 turns

I managed to get mine running nearly perfect with a K&N, took the carbs out like a dozen times over the last year to get it right but it runs awesome now! Most people don't have the patience it takes to get it worked out with the K&N, I think.

Good deal man! I was just going by my experience with the k&n and from what everyone else said about them, but I only tried 3 times.

So was the time it took you to get your bike tuned right with the k&n worth it? If so, maybe I'll try again.

Kawdog/Nick

I know im new here but I have been around all yamaha bikes and quads for YEARS... carbed motors arent hard to get running perfect from idle to WOT and all in between just listen to your plugs they dont lie if they are black lean it out if they are on the verge of white richen it up you want a good mocha/tan color also carbs being synced properly is a huge deal with most people spend the money approx. 45 bucks get a vacum sync tool you will get the carbs synced perfect everytime, when you mess with the factory air system REJET when you mess with factory fuel system REJET and I promise you will be good everytime

:popcorn:

I'm considering the Ivans kit for my 99 r6 and have read alot of good things about it. How hard is it to remove the Main air jet and Pilot air jet? And does the kit include the tools used to remove the these jets? Being that they are pressed in i'm assuming it would take a vise or something to hold the carbs to pull them out? Looking for some closure before i spend the $160 dollars on this kit.

I'm considering the Ivans kit for my 99 r6 and have read alot of good things about it. How hard is it to remove the Main air jet and Pilot air jet? And does the kit include the tools used to remove the these jets? Being that they are pressed in i'm assuming it would take a vise or something to hold the carbs to pull them out? Looking for some closure before i spend the $160 dollars on this kit.

They just screw in with a regular screwdriver.

I guess i'm a little confused, if you read on there website they say that the "air jets" are pressed in?

I guess i'm a little confused, if you read on there website they say that the "air jets" are pressed in?

Maybe they are referring to the caps on the pilot adjustment screws. The caps are presssed in

Ok thanks for clearing this up for me, there site is worded funny, still undecided on factory pro vs. Ivans, not sure which would work best for me, elevation is 890' above, only mod is m4 short can slip on

I found this while doing research on the Ivans jet kit, The "problem pilot air jets" in the 1st picture, and "main air" and "pilot air" are the jets that i was asking about as far as them being pressed in. According to Ivans instructions, these are pressed in, you have to tap them, screw in bolt supplied, and pull them out, then tap the holes, and screw in the new air jets. Soo, if they are pressed in from factory i'm thinking it's easier said then done. Does anybody have any experience on this? After reading all of this i'm really leaning toward the factory pro kit.
http://www.sportbikeguy.com/garage/floor/r6carbinfo.html

I found this while doing research on the Ivans jet kit, The "problem pilot air jets" in the 1st picture, and "main air" and "pilot air" are the jets that i was asking about as far as them being pressed in. According to Ivans instructions, these are pressed in, you have to tap them, screw in bolt supplied, and pull them out, then tap the holes, and screw in the new air jets. Soo, if they are pressed in from factory i'm thinking it's easier said then done. Does anybody have any experience on this? After reading all of this i'm really leaning toward the factory pro kit.
http://www.sportbikeguy.com/garage/floor/r6carbinfo.html

Didn't have those in my FP kit, so I didn't change those.

The ivans jet kit almost sounds like the factory pro 1.7 race kit.

Been eyeballing this lately:
http://www.flo-commander.com/

^ Nice find very interesting. Read through the testimonials and a few people have had good results in the R6. Would love to see some installation instructions.

^ Nice find very interesting. Read through the testimonials and a few people have had good results in the R6. Would love to see some installation instructions.

At that price, its gonna be my next mod.

It turns out i have a Factory Pro jet kit, Mains in 1 & 4 are 155 and 2 & 3 are 150, clip on the needle is 3rd from the top (middle) but no shims at all, pilots are #38, and of course, when i opened the airbox up, a k&n filter caked with dirt was sitting in there. a/f mixture screws were 2.5 turns out. The problem i had was poor idle, after you revved it up and it would drop past idle point and die, and it surges real bad at cruising speed, 4k to 6k rpms. So i'm going to clean everything up, should i ditch the filter and get oem or bmc? and how about moving up to #40 pilots?

I'd ditch the k&n to make life easier.

The flocommander is a ghetto ass jet kit for the most part. I've seen a forum member open his airbox to that mess and was all like WTF!! :eek5 :lmao

man, after reading all 11 pages just now, i'm kinda happy w/ my OEM set-up. haha. thinking i'll just stick with that instead of going through all of this magic.

It turns out i have a Factory Pro jet kit, Mains in 1 & 4 are 155 and 2 & 3 are 150, clip on the needle is 3rd from the top (middle) but no shims at all, pilots are #38, and of course, when i opened the airbox up, a k&n filter caked with dirt was sitting in there. a/f mixture screws were 2.5 turns out. The problem i had was poor idle, after you revved it up and it would drop past idle point and die, and it surges real bad at cruising speed, 4k to 6k rpms. So i'm going to clean everything up, should i ditch the filter and get oem or bmc? and how about moving up to #40 pilots?

I had the same surging issue until I put OEM needles with shims back in and went up to 40 pilots.

I'd ditch the k&n to make life easier.

The flocommander is a ghetto ass jet kit for the most part. I've seen a forum member open his airbox to that mess and was all like WTF!! :eek5 :lmao

I like the thought of being able to adjust the mixture w/o having to take the bike apart. So when I go on trips, I can adjust if needed for temp/elevation. They say it will smooth the on n off throttle response too, which is giving me grief at the track.

I ended up calling Factory Pro today and asked what settings they recommend on my mixture screws with the elevation i'm at, and yes the 1st thing he said was ditch the filter and get the oem, he said to start out at 3 turns and go from there. So i'm going to order the filter and see what happens. Clean carbs, new plugs, it should be better.

I'm trying to piece together everything i need, and i want to double check before i order it, but i'm looking at the plate element, element air cleaner, and a guide? Is this correct? this is going to equal up to close to $80, which is the same price as the bmc filter.

Ok, so i'm waiting on the OEM filter assembly now, i decided to throw the k&n back in it since i have cleaned the carbs and turned the mixture screws to 3 turns out, fired it up and the idle does not drop any more, i think my carbs just needed cleaned, however i took it for a spin and now i'm having the 8k problem you guys have mentioned, i never had this problem before, but now everything is clean. So next week i will put the oem filter in, but i'm wondering if there is more to be done? It's soo bad it won't even rev past 8k.

Ok, so i'm waiting on the OEM filter assembly now, i decided to throw the k&n back in it since i have cleaned the carbs and turned the mixture screws to 3 turns out, fired it up and the idle does not drop any more, i think my carbs just needed cleaned, however i took it for a spin and now i'm having the 8k problem you guys have mentioned, i never had this problem before, but now everything is clean. So next week i will put the oem filter in, but i'm wondering if there is more to be done? It's soo bad it won't even rev past 8k.

I tried the OEM filter thing too, didn't fix the problem. So I put the K&N (since I had 2) and the OE needles back in with 2 shims under each , and was at 3.5 turns out, this smoothed most of the stumble but not fully. I went up to the 40 pilots, and back to 2.5 turns on the mix screws and its WAY better now. Pulls strong and smooth all the way to redline. I don't remember the total size of the shims, but I posted my final settings a few pages back.

Ya i have studied your settings pretty hard lol..even printed them out, if the oem filter doesn't do the trick i will be ordering oem needles, and some #40 pilots. I am 875' above sea level, so i don't know how that will effect me.

Ya i have studied your settings pretty hard lol..even printed them out, if the oem filter doesn't do the trick i will be ordering oem needles, and some #40 pilots. I am 875' above sea level, so i don't know how that will effect me.

I had my same setup when I went to Deal's Gap last year and it was even smoother up there. That's why the Flo Commander seems so appealing to me, so I can fine tune on the fly depending things like elevation and temp. If it ran that good when I went to the mountains, I should be able to have the same performance here at sea level.

Just wanted to share that i got my oem air filter today, put it on and no more problems at 8k-10k now, it runs all the way up to red line. However, i still have the surging and a slight sputter when cruising. My oem needles are on back order and it will be 3 weeks before i get those, and i'm still waiting on my #40 pilot jets. It's 36 degrees and a light mist in the air so i'm not sure how it would run with warmer temps.

Just wanted to share that i got my oem air filter today, put it on and no more problems at 8k-10k now, it runs all the way up to red line. However, i still have the surging and a slight sputter when cruising. My oem needles are on back order and it will be 3 weeks before i get those, and i'm still waiting on my #40 pilot jets. It's 36 degrees and a light mist in the air so i'm not sure how it would run with warmer temps.

Glad to hear. You'll be soooo happy when you finally get it smoothed out.

Hi guys,

Im new to this and im hoping someone might be able to help. I recently purchased a 2000 r6 that needed some work. The bike has a D&D exhaust. When I was cleaning the carb I noticed that the jets are at 142. I believe that the stock jetting is (#152) (#1,4) & (#148) (#2,3). From what I understand when you put an exhaust on the bike you either increase the jetting or leave it as is. I was wondering if anyone knew the proper jetting or could verify that the current jetting was appropriate. Also, the mixture screws were all 2 turns out, is that ok? All help greatly appreciated.

P.S. I dont know a lot about bikes, this is actually my first bike. I also tried to get a hold of D&D but I haven't heard back from them.

Hi guys,

Im new to this and im hoping someone might be able to help. I recently purchased a 2000 r6 that needed some work. The bike has a D&D exhaust. When I was cleaning the carb I noticed that the jets are at 142. I believe that the stock jetting is (#152) (#1,4) & (#148) (#2,3). From what I understand when you put an exhaust on the bike you either increase the jetting or leave it as is. I was wondering if anyone knew the proper jetting or could verify that the current jetting was appropriate. Also, the mixture screws were all 2 turns out, is that ok? All help greatly appreciated.

P.S. I dont know a lot about bikes, this is actually my first bike. I also tried to get a hold of D&D but I haven't heard back from them.

I answered you other thread too. Yes the stock jetting you have listed is correct. Can't remember the factory screw settings. Sounds like it is jetted for high altitude, where do you live?

Thanks for the reply. I live in San Diego, California. As far as i know the previous owner originally lived in El Centro CA (which is bellow sea level i think) for a few years and has lived in SD for the past few years. Should I use that stock jetting with the d&d exhaust or is the current setting because of the pipe?

Thanks for the reply. I live in San Diego, California. As far as i know the previous owner originally lived in El Centro CA (which is bellow sea level i think) for a few years and has lived in SD for the past few years. Should I use that stock jetting with the d&d exhaust or is the current setting because of the pipe?

Stock jets on CA bikes is 148 in all 4 carbs. #142 means it is jetted for around 3000' not sea level, that's lean as hell @ sea level. I would go back to stock and start from there.

Sup guys, new to the forum, and recently bought a new headache. 01 R6, fresh motor, unknown carb kit, and everything was supposed to be setup to go. Elevation ~800', temp today about 60. Bike cranks and idles fine, but runs like poo from ~4k up and barely wants to get above 8k. Took out the BMC filter and ran it with an empty airbox and it worked great. Figured it was rich so popped the needles out and they were on the 5th of 6 notches from the top. Put all of them up to the 3rd from top, put em back in the carbs, and ran it again and it runs like crap between 4-8 with or without the airfilter. I have a full shop back home, but thats 8 hours away, and I wasn't really looking forward to pulling the carbs completely off in the apt parking lot. Any suggestions about what the prob could be? Also is bypassing the coolant lines off the carbs a bad idea? Ive worked extensively on newer FI bikes, and older carb'd bikes, but these middle ground ones just aggravate me. Help!

Sup guys, new to the forum, and recently bought a new headache. 01 R6, fresh motor, unknown carb kit, and everything was supposed to be setup to go. Elevation ~800', temp today about 60. Bike cranks and idles fine, but runs like poo from ~4k up and barely wants to get above 8k. Took out the BMC filter and ran it with an empty airbox and it worked great. Figured it was rich so popped the needles out and they were on the 5th of 6 notches from the top. Put all of them up to the 3rd from top, put em back in the carbs, and ran it again and it runs like crap between 4-8 with or without the airfilter. I have a full shop back home, but thats 8 hours away, and I wasn't really looking forward to pulling the carbs completely off in the apt parking lot. Any suggestions about what the prob could be? Also is bypassing the coolant lines off the carbs a bad idea? Ive worked extensively on newer FI bikes, and older carb'd bikes, but these middle ground ones just aggravate me. Help!


What sort of air filter is in it?

Yes you can bypass the carb coolant lines. Mine stated leaking from the fitting on the carb so I bypassed them. You only need them if you ride in freezing temps :(

Sup guys, new to the forum, and recently bought a new headache. 01 R6, fresh motor, unknown carb kit, and everything was supposed to be setup to go. Elevation ~800', temp today about 60. Bike cranks and idles fine, but runs like poo from ~4k up and barely wants to get above 8k. Took out the BMC filter and ran it with an empty airbox and it worked great. Figured it was rich so popped the needles out and they were on the 5th of 6 notches from the top. Put all of them up to the 3rd from top, put em back in the carbs, and ran it again and it runs like crap between 4-8 with or without the airfilter. I have a full shop back home, but thats 8 hours away, and I wasn't really looking forward to pulling the carbs completely off in the apt parking lot. Any suggestions about what the prob could be? Also is bypassing the coolant lines off the carbs a bad idea? Ive worked extensively on newer FI bikes, and older carb'd bikes, but these middle ground ones just aggravate me. Help!


What are the mix screws set at? Stock 38 pilots? What size main jets?

"unknown carb kit" needs to be "known" I'm at 875' elevation so we should be fairly close on set up.

Don't know about the jets.. I never took the thing apart but i guess the best option is to know all the variables. I'll get back in a few when I figure out whats inside those things. Anyone in Chattanooga have an LC-1 i can borrow?!

Stock jets on CA bikes is 148 in all 4 carbs. #142 means it is jetted for around 3000' not sea level, that's lean as hell @ sea level. I would go back to stock and start from there.

Thanks for the help.. any chance you know what the pilot should be.. Right now all 4 are at 35.. im assuming that since the jets were off, the pilot might be as well..

#35 is the right size for CA models on the pilot jets

The Dynojet Kit for a CA model actually has jets that go up to 138 (DJ jets flow different than the OEM, so the sizing is different) The 49 state kit goes up to 144. So if the jet kit you have is a Dynojet (you will se a DJ in front of the jet size), you might actually be running too rich. It may be set OK.... depends on how it is running.

http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/4161CA.pdf
http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/4163.pdf

aight so all carbs have 142 mains and 38 pilots. Needles weren't consistent but I doubt that caused my main problem. From what Ive read 142 is small, but that doesn't explain why it was choking for air with the air filter in, but ran fine with no air box. Suggestions?

The Dynojet Kit for a CA model actually has jets that go up to 138 (DJ jets flow different than the OEM, so the sizing is different) The 49 state kit goes up to 144. So if the jet kit you have is a Dynojet (you will se a DJ in front of the jet size), you might actually be running too rich. It may be set OK.... depends on how it is running.

http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/4161CA.pdf
http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/4163.pdf

:werd Good to know. I stayed away from the DJ kit after all the bad reviews I heard about them.

Me too. I have always been a FactoryPro guy, myself. And that goes back to my FZR400 days. (way before the R6 came out)

Anyone using a wideband sensor and gauge on their R6. Would be great for checking carb adjustments

Ha when I was tuning my turbo bike I ran an Lc-1 and spliced the TPS sensor and data logged it into a laptop I threw in my riding bag. Worked great! too bad I sold the stuff, I could really use it now. AFR gauge would be great on a straight road, could get a lil tricky staring at it while going around corners though.

Hey guys,can anyone tell me the amount of fuel that each carb should have when adjusting the mixture screws? Reason i'm asking is because i recently replaced all my needle valves,and didnt do anything with the float adjustment,now i slapped it back on,starts fine and runs ok,but when you get into the higher rpm,it breaks up.
Someone told me to get a medical syringe and check how much ML each bowl is holding,he said he THINKS its suppose to be 12ml,but he cant be certain.

Everything is stock,i.e. carb jets,exhaust etc.

Hey guys,can anyone tell me the amount of fuel that each carb should have when adjusting the mixture screws? Reason i'm asking is because i recently replaced all my needle valves,and didnt do anything with the float adjustment,now i slapped it back on,starts fine and runs ok,but when you get into the higher rpm,it breaks up.
Someone told me to get a medical syringe and check how much ML each bowl is holding,he said he THINKS its suppose to be 12ml,but he cant be certain.

Everything is stock,i.e. carb jets,exhaust etc.

The mixture screws have no bearing on how much fuel is in the bowls, they adjust how much fuel is in the air coming through the carbs up to around 3-4k. If you didn't mess with the floats, you should be fine.

The syringe trick is a pain in the azz. There is a level mark on the side of each carb used to measure. You connect the syringe via a hose to the float bowl drain, hold the syringe up next to the level mark, and open the drain screw. The syringe will fill up with gas and hopefully it stops at the same level as the mark on the carb. Like I said, PAIN IN THE AZZ! If you have never done this, I would suggest not doing it. Just my .02

^ok,thanks for the quick reply,i did notice when i put in the new needle valves that the floats went a bit higher up than the ones i took out,i'm guessing this is normal? because fuel was leaking in my cylinder into the crankcase and mixing with the oil.Also how many turns out should the mixture screws be? i didnt mess with it,recently all i've done is change the fuel pump,could a leaky vacuum hose cause my problem as well? i'll look over all the airbox hoses to make sure just in case.

^ok,thanks for the quick reply,i did notice when i put in the new needle valves that the floats went a bit higher up than the ones i took out,i'm guessing this is normal? because fuel was leaking in my cylinder into the crankcase and mixing with the oil.Also how many turns out should the mixture screws be? i didnt mess with it,recently all i've done is change the fuel pump,could a leaky vacuum hose cause my problem as well? i'll look over all the airbox hoses to make sure just in case.

The screws are normally 1.5-2 turns out stock.

What exactly is the problem you are having? I didn't see it mentioned in your 1st post. There isn't any "vacuum" hoses on the carbs, there is hoses that help pressurize the float bowls at higher speeds, and coolant hoses (mine are bypassed, I live in Florida not Alaska).

^ok,my coolant hoses are bypassed as well,cause i live in a tropical country.The problem i'm getting is that once your riding it,and reaches higher rpm's,it begins to break up,no backfiring or anything like that,but i was told by someone who has experience with this particular model bike that its sounding like it may be starving for fuel.I changed oil (using castrol 20w-50) Plugs (NGK Iridium)Oil Filter,needle valves(not yamaha,but they were the exact models like what the bike currently had,and sealed off properly),cleaned out the carb completely (it was pretty gunked up inside) like 3 days ago.I also noticed that the person i bought the bike from installed a fram gas filter between the tank and fuel pump,why ? i have no idea.Could this be restricting fuel flow?

^ok,my coolant hoses are bypassed as well,cause i live in a tropical country.The problem i'm getting is that once your riding it,and reaches higher rpm's,it begins to break up,no backfiring or anything like that,but i was told by someone who has experience with this particular model bike that its sounding like it may be starving for fuel.I changed oil (using castrol 20w-50) Plugs (NGK Iridium)Oil Filter,needle valves(not yamaha,but they were the exact models like what the bike currently had,and sealed off properly),cleaned out the carb completely (it was pretty gunked up inside) like 3 days ago.I also noticed that the person i bought the bike from installed a fram gas filter between the tank and fuel pump,why ? i have no idea.Could this be restricting fuel flow?

Sounds typical, starts to break up around 6-8k? When you had the carbs out, did you notice the jet sizes, and if it had factory needles (not the float needles, the ones in the slides)? Just wondering if it is stock or if there is a jet kit in it.

Any mods other than that (pipe, v-stacks, ignition advancer)?

i would like to believe the jets were stock,and what do you mean by sounds typical? Was gonna carry it for a spin again today to see the exact rpm range it's doing it,but rain :( I'll try and take her for a spin tomorrow.

He means its very common to get hesitation from 6-8k with this model. A simple slip on muffler will cause it.

Read all 15 pages, very anxious to tear into mine. I was out riding today and got stuck at 8k, wouldnt go past it no matter what i did. I know I have a FP jet kit but dont know what sizes or what anything is set at. I pretty much got from reading this that i need to try the fourth clip and 3-3.5 turns out and go from there. If Shush or Chief want to throw in their .02 that would be great. About how long does it take to do all this cause its really close to being able to ride everyday?

Read all 15 pages, very anxious to tear into mine. I was out riding today and got stuck at 8k, wouldnt go past it no matter what i did. I know I have a FP jet kit but dont know what sizes or what anything is set at. I pretty much got from reading this that i need to try the fourth clip and 3-3.5 turns out and go from there. If Shush or Chief want to throw in their .02 that would be great. About how long does it take to do all this cause its really close to being able to ride everyday?

I would try 3 turns out.

Fourth clip is rich. You'll be ok with that tho. if its on the second and won't go past 8k then moving two clip spots is a good call too

There's some helpful pics in my 02 thread linked in my signature. Finding the screws to loosen the carbs is tough but the pics will help. Set aside a Saturday and u can knock it out. Just take your time

Whats a good jet kit to put on guys? and what stage? Ivans or dynojet? Where i live is currently hot/humid basically and elevation is between 68-100ft. Stock headers,K&N Air Filter and apparently i have a aftermarket exhaust,dunno the brand though (no markings on it whatsoever due to rash)

I would try 3 turns out.

Fourth clip is rich. You'll be ok with that tho. if its on the second and won't go past 8k then moving two clip spots is a good call too

There's some helpful pics in my 02 thread linked in my signature. Finding the screws to loosen the carbs is tough but the pics will help. Set aside a Saturday and u can knock it out. Just take your time
Thanks man. Id have to admit im a little nervious and excited to learn at the same time. Ive done it to a dirtbike and a car. Im very mechanically inclined its just I dont want to F it up. Just want it to run like its supposed to. Ill start this coming week, Ill let you know If I run into any problems. Hopefully it will turn out to be a simple fix.

I'm needing suggestions.... just cleaned and reset carbs, 38 pilots, 3rd of 6 clips, 142 main (unless they're drilled), 3 turns on mix... wayyy rich between 4-8k, stuttery going down the road, but very shitty to ride around the corners... clears up at WOT though. Adjusted the mix to 2.5 and it didn't do much. Should I bump the needles to second clip? turn the mix to 2? Anyone here mess with carb adjustments with diff heat level plugs?

Thanks man. Id have to admit im a little nervious and excited to learn at the same time. Ive done it to a dirtbike and a car. Im very mechanically inclined its just I dont want to F it up. Just want it to run like its supposed to. Ill start this coming week, Ill let you know If I run into any problems. Hopefully it will turn out to be a simple fix.

I have found it helps to take pictures as your taking it apart.

Its just running like shit and its pissing me off a lot.

Seemed to run a little better since it was chilly air tonight. Is that and indicator that its running lean in warm air? Is the cooler air making it run richer? Curious on how air effects it, I know it was touched on in this thread. Waking up early, I want to knock this out by friday afternoon.

Seemed to run a little better since it was chilly air tonight. Is that and indicator that its running lean in warm air? Is the cooler air making it run richer? Curious on how air effects it, I know it was touched on in this thread. Waking up early, I want to knock this out by friday afternoon.

The air is denser when it's cold out, so you get more air in the mixture. So when it's colder out, the bike is being leaned out. As the bike gets hot, and the air gets hot, and the carbs get hot, the mixture richens. This is why you must use the choke when the bike is cold. The choke richens the mixture by injecting extra fuel.

Sometimes if it's lean and u suspect it, you can run just a little bit on the choke. If it helps, then you're lean

Here's a picture of the washers from radio shack, the smallest washer included in this package fits the OEM needles great, I still have to measure thickness to determine how many i'm going to use. (My #40 factory pro pilot jets are to the left). The part number for these washers are #64-3022 and it's a 100 pack (quantity).

http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af123/bgballin26/r6washers.jpg?t=1330617786

Holly shit, I think I fixed it. Will know for sure when I go for a longer ride. Before my needles were sitting on the 3rd clip (in the middle) and the mixture screws were at 2.5 turns out. Currently the needles are on the 2nd clip and the mixture screws are 3 turns out. I adjusted it this way because I actually think I was running rich. So far runs A LOT better...good enough to leave it. Im pumped I pulled this off, Thanks Chief and everyone who started this. Will update how it runs tomorrow, hopefully great because I really dont want to take it apart again.

That's great news!!! :cheers

That's great news!!! :cheers
:cheers

:toocool: Awesome brotha, glad to hear this! :cheers

How does it return to idle when you snap the throttle? I.E. does it go back to normal idle without hesitation, does it drop low then come back up to normal, does it hang a little high then drop down to normal?

It returns to idle just fine drops right back no hanging or anything. I just really hope its fixed. I've worked so hard to get it and I want it to ride damn near perfect. Use to ride fuel injected but this is a whole different beast. I will know tomorrow how it is at higher speeds, keeping my fingers crossed. Will definitely let yall know.

It returns to idle just fine drops right back no hanging or anything. I just really hope its fixed. I've worked so hard to get it and I want it to ride damn near perfect. Use to ride fuel injected but this is a whole different beast. I will know tomorrow how it is at higher speeds, keeping my fingers crossed. Will definitely let yall know.

:werd Enjoy!

Where did you buy the #40 pilot jets? Online or shop?

Where did you buy the #40 pilot jets? Online or shop?

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/53/213/930/-/25591/Keihin-N424-74C-Series-Pilot-Jet/KEHIN+PILOT+JET

link posted by slush319 is the cheapest, but i ordered mine directly from factory pro.

Hi All,

I seem to have the same problem. My R6 seems to have a major flat spot between 8000 & 9000 RPM. I found that when the bike is cold, lets say at between 50°C and 65°C and I open her the flat spot seems to be gone but when the bike is at optimal she will not go and starts over fuelling and ultimately refuses to rev any higher. When I slow roll the throttle though she seems to be able to go past 9000RPM and at about 9200 to 9500 "depending" she starts getting power again and then sometimes between 10 000 and 11 000 RPM the flat spot returns. It is very erratic and seems to come and go. I have so far cleaned the carbs out but not yet balanced them. any help will be appreciated.

I am currently running...
Pipe: Full Yoshi TRS
Jeting: Factory 148 - 152
Air filter: BMC

And I'm 5790ft above sea level

Not sure what my Needles are set at, will check again and post.

A little warmer out today, about 80°+. Thought I fixed it but apparently didn't. Rode an hour and a half out and started messing up about an hour into the ride, then rode fine after a 10min wait. Started coming back and same thing about 3 times. Sat for a bit and almost had it towed, decided to try again and rode fine all the way home. Running temp was 176-178°. To me, its like the carbs are getting flooded or maybe when the carbs are hot the a/f is jacked (seems to run better in a little cooler weather). Maybe the fuel pump is going bad (is there a way to test that). I guess I'm going to try 3.5 turns out. Disappointed because I thought I fixed it. Just doesn't make since that it rides fine for a few rides then all of the sudden does it again (stuttering till it eventually dies and then fine after a little break)

:popcorn:

A little warmer out today, about 80°+. Thought I fixed it but apparently didn't. Rode an hour and a half out and started messing up about an hour into the ride, then rode fine after a 10min wait. Started coming back and same thing about 3 times. Sat for a bit and almost had it towed, decided to try again and rode fine all the way home. Running temp was 176-178°. To me, its like the carbs are getting flooded or maybe when the carbs are hot the a/f is jacked (seems to run better in a little cooler weather). Maybe the fuel pump is going bad (is there a way to test that). I guess I'm going to try 3.5 turns out. Disappointed because I thought I fixed it. Just doesn't make since that it rides fine for a few rides then all of the sudden does it again (stuttering till it eventually dies and then fine after a little break)

If you went up 1 size on the pilots, you have to turn your mix screws IN 1.5 turns to be at the same point you were at before you changed them, then adjust from there (mine are 2.5 turns out for example). I spent a TON of time reading FP's tuning section, stumbled across this (taken from FP Pj tuning section) and it helped tremendously:

"As far as the pilots... Look at it this way...

There are 4 outlet holes for the pilot mixture. ~3-4 at the butterfly and one "downstream" of that (for 75% of the idle mixture).

1 hole is controlled by the mixture screw and with the other 3 or 4, max flow is limited by the size of the pilot jet.

At idle, 1 hole (metered by the fuel screw) and 1 un metered hole are open.

At cruise, when the "butterfly" is just "cracked", all 3-4 unmetered holes + the 1 metered one are uncovered -

So.....

At cruise, you get those 3 unmetered holes + the metered hole... So, at least 75% of the fuel delivered at cruise is limited by the size of the pilot jet.

At idle, you get 100% of the trimmed 1 hole + a butterfly valve-trimmed amount of the other 3-4 metered holes.

Rule of thumb....
If you go 1 size larger or smaller on the size of the pilot jet, you will change the fuel screw ~1.5x richer or leaner to retain the original idle mixture -

Example:
You have a #40 pilot jet installed (with the proper main, needle height and fuel level already done) and to get best idle, you are 4.0 turns out (from lightly bottomed out).
Cruise seems lean....

So, I'd expect that I could richen the cruise with 1 size larger (42) pilot jet (size of pj is 75% of cruise mixture) and the "trim" the fuel screw "in" for best mixture for best idle (size of pilot is 25% of idle mixture).

To go back to ~ the same idle mixture, after going from 40 pj/4.0x to the 42........ try 2.5x

40 pj / 4.0x = our reference idle mixture
42 pj / 2.5x = ~ same idle mixture
38 pj /5.5x = ~ same idle mixture (this is a "stretch - after 4.5x, not much changes)

(Using another "rule of thumb", if you have the correct pilot jet, the fuel screw will end up at between 1.5x and 3.0x when set for best idle.)

Macr (FP tech)"

I don't remember so i'll ask. Have you changed your float needles? The rubber tip get worn out and will cause sticking floats or flooding if they don't seat properly.

Damn, thats a lot of info. I don't even know what size pilot jets I have because last time I took it apart I just lowered the main jet and turned mixture screw out to 3. I will look this time (should be a number on it??) I will check to see if the floats are sticking or anything too. Just kinda lost on where to go now.

NOTE: It ran fine with full length exhaust on it, I think this all started when I did the 06+ exhaust mod. Unless that was just coincidence.

Just got my bike back together and took her for a spin, i must say it's the best i have had it soo far, no more surging at cruising speeds, runs real clean and smooth. I did have a slight stumble when i went from a dead stop to wfo, but it only happened one time and couldn't get it to do it again. I do still have a slight idle drop after it returns back to idle, but not as severe as it was, if i do anything else it will be a sync and set the float levels which as of now i don't have the proper tools to do that (next on the list).
Final settings:

Factory Pro 155 & 150 mains
Factory Pro #40 pilots
OEM airfilter
OEM needles with 2 shims (1mm)
screws 2.5 out
elevation is 875' above

Just got my bike back together and took her for a spin, i must say it's the best i have had it soo far, no more surging at cruising speeds, runs real clean and smooth. I did have a slight stumble when i went from a dead stop to wfo, but it only happened one time and couldn't get it to do it again. I do still have a slight idle drop after it returns back to idle, but not as severe as it was, if i do anything else it will be a sync and set the float levels which as of now i don't have the proper tools to do that (next on the list).
Final settings:

Factory Pro 155 & 150 mains
Factory Pro #40 pilots
OEM airfilter
OEM needles with 2 shims (1mm)
screws 2.5 out
elevation is 875' above


Go back to 2 turns out on the mix screws and that should take care of the idle drop before settling. I have to do the same to mine when I get back in there, it does the same thing (drops a little before returning to idle(means too rich on the screws)).

Ok i will give it a try next time i get in there. Thanks for all the help

Called my local yamaha shop and they say it sounds electrical. If it was the carbs it would do it all the time not just after riding for a while at random times. Says stator or rectifier maybe getting too hot and acting up, thats why when I let it sit for a few min afterward it rides fine till it gets hot again. Also maybe why I haven't experienced it in cool weather. Unfortunately I cant pay for $100/hr of work that they have no idea how long it will take to find the problem.

Ok i will give it a try next time i get in there. Thanks for all the help

Glad to help! Also glad to hear the help actually worked for you.
:cheers

Called my local yamaha shop and they say it sounds electrical. If it was the carbs it would do it all the time not just after riding for a while at random times. Says stator or rectifier maybe getting too hot and acting up, thats why when I let it sit for a few min afterward it rides fine till it gets hot again. Also maybe why I haven't experienced it in cool weather. Unfortunately I cant pay for $100/hr of work that they have no idea how long it will take to find the problem.

Have you checked the regulator plug? They tend to melt on these bikes. Melting plug = intermittent contact, fluctuating voltage, and unnecessary additional heat on the regulator. I would start there. If you look under the right side just above the rear shock you can see the reg and plug.

Its the thing with all the fins on it right? No I haven't checked it. I would think that if that was the problem I would have a hard time starting my bike and I don't. Who knows, maybe this is why my blinkers don't work with my headlights on. I want to check the voltage on the stator you know the steps to doing this and what its supposed to be at?

Theres a brown plug on right side of bike with a yellow wire and a brown wire, whats its importance because its not plugged in on my bike and I don't know where it goes.

Its under the tank with all the other wires

Its the thing with all the fins on it right? No I haven't checked it. I would think that if that was the problem I would have a hard time starting my bike and I don't. Who knows, maybe this is why my blinkers don't work with my headlights on. I want to check the voltage on the stator you know the steps to doing this and what its supposed to be at?

Yes, that is the regulator. Check the plug, they like to melt down, also check the stator plug (close to the left carb float bowl (white plug with 3 heavy white wires in it) both melted on mine).
You can check the stator with a multimeter. Put the meter to ohms, find stator plug, unplug it and check each coil (1&2, then 1&3) for resistance, it should read .27 - .33 ohms resistance between the coils when cold. If it is out of spec, the stator is bad (not as common as the regulator being bad).

Theres a brown plug on right side of bike with a yellow wire and a brown wire, whats its importance because its not plugged in on my bike and I don't know where it goes.

From what I can tell, this is for the rear brake light switch. Does the brake light work when you hit the rear brake?

Yes, that is the regulator. Check the plug, they like to melt down, also check the stator plug (close to the left carb float bowl (white plug with 3 heavy white wires in it) both melted on mine).
You can check the stator with a multimeter. Put the meter to ohms, find stator plug, unplug it and check each coil (1&2, then 1&3) for resistance, it should read .27 - .33 ohms resistance between the coils when cold. If it is out of spec, the stator is bad (not as common as the regulator being bad).



From what I can tell, this is for the rear brake light switch. Does the brake light work when you hit the rear brake?
Thanks man :bow, Ill check it all out tomorrow if I get some time. No my rear brake doesnt have the switch in it because of aftermarket rear sets which is why it would be unpluged. I would just think if this was my problem I would have trouble starting my bike from lack of voltage which is why i lean towards a carb problem but then again if it was the carb it would do it all the time and not only when it feels like it. Any way this could be a fuel pump issue??? Maybe even coils, i dont know. Id just hate to take it to a shop because I know they are going to screw me. Id much rather do it myself and learn in the process. Im going crazy trying to narrow this down.:confused: I want it to be the stator so i can be done with this mess.

This thread really needs to be a sticky!

2000 EB5
standard airfilter
lazer exhaust

factory pro jets and needles

Jets
#150
#155

Needles
three from top

pilot screw
3.5 turns out

My elevation is 78 m or 255ft above sea level.

I'll let you know how it goes.

kilburn, whats your elevation?

2000 EB5
standard airfilter
lazer exhaust

factory pro jets and needles

Jets
#150
#155

Needles
three from top

pilot screw
3.5 turns out

I'll let you know how it goes.



Do let us know. Ive found 3.5 turns out on the pilot to be to much at sea level.

Ehh... well I have A full Muzzy exhaust, and Just got a K&N air filter.
Carbs are stock, my top speed tonight was 140 and it kept sputtering at 13k and would not go faster :(
I need a jet kit.

My elevation is 78 m or 255ft above sea level.
what symptoms did it cause on your bike?
so far it seems fine

Ehh... well I have A full Muzzy exhaust, and Just got a K&N air filter.
Carbs are stock, my top speed tonight was 140 and it kept sputtering at 13k and would not go faster :(
I need a jet kit.

You for sure need a jet kit, but for now try taking that k&n filter out and put the stock one back in and see if that makes the sputtering go away.

You for sure need a jet kit, but for now try taking that k&n filter out and put the stock one back in and see if that makes the sputtering go away.

It only started to happen when I put the new filter in... ran better with the dirty stock filter!

Old one will go back in for the time being, next paycheck Im getting my jet kit :YEA

I am probably going with Ivans ...unless it is cheaper to buy jets individually?

I guess thats more personal preference but it is cheaper to buy them individually, i have heard many good things about the Ivans jet kit, i don't like how the aftermarket needles fit sloppy in the retainers.

So I finally installed my Factory Pro 1.1Ti kit in my 2001. Only mod is a 2 bros slip on pipe and I'm around 370 ft above sea level. Here are my settings:

2.75 turns out
3rd notch
155 #1,4
150 #2,3
OEM air filter

From what I can tell, the bike runs A LOT smoother. I used to have minor hesitations, flat spots and popping but it seems like that is all gone now. The idle is much smoother (still have to sync carbs) and cruising is less "Choppy" as well. Before the kit the idle would hang around 3000 RPM for a split second. Now it is much better and "responsive".

Only question is how to check my mid-range without dyno sessions. There are no hesitations or hiccups but it just doesn't feel as strong as it should. I know the R6 doesn't pack a lot of low-mid range power so it's hard to tell based on seat time.

So I finally installed my Factory Pro 1.1Ti kit in my 2001. Only mod is a 2 bros slip on pipe and I'm around 370 ft above sea level. Here are my settings:

2.75 turns out
3rd notch
155 #1,4
150 #2,3
OEM air filter

From what I can tell, the bike runs A LOT smoother. I used to have minor hesitations, flat spots and popping but it seems like that is all gone now. The idle is much smoother (still have to sync carbs) and cruising is less "Choppy" as well. Before the kit the idle would hang around 3000 RPM for a split second. Now it is much better and "responsive".

Only question is how to check my mid-range without dyno sessions. There are no hesitations or hiccups but it just doesn't feel as strong as it should. I know the R6 doesn't pack a lot of low-mid range power so it's hard to tell based on seat time.


what made you choose 2.75 turns out over the recommended 3.5? was this trial and error and what was the symptoms at 3.5 turns out?

what made you choose 2.75 turns out over the recommended 3.5? was this trial and error and what was the symptoms at 3.5 turns out?

I read a couple of posts from other users that are at lower elevations. I have no idea if 2.75 turns is optimal or not, but from what I can tell it is a FAR better setup than the stock 2 turns.

Do you suggest that I bump it up to 3 - 3.5 turns out?? One thing I notice is that when I rev it in neutral, the bike isn't as "responsive" and rev happy like other bikes. Good indication that is still running a little lean?

i'm running 3.5 not had any problems
Took it on a track day and it flew no problems keeping up with 2005 cbr600RRRRR.
Only thing i have noticed is when cold, i put full choke to start, but if iwant it to start on the button i need to crack open the throttle a fraction.
This may be me not clamping the choke cable at the right point.

other than that no complaints

i'm running 3.5 not had any problems
Took it on a track day and it flew no problems keeping up with 2005 cbr600RRRRR.
Only thing i have noticed is when cold, i put full choke to start, but if iwant it to start on the button i need to crack open the throttle a fraction.
This may be me not clamping the choke cable at the right point.

other than that no complaints

What is your current bike setup and what elevation are you at?

I think I might go to 3 turns out and try lowering the needle to the 4th notch to "lean" out the mid-range. Like I said, the bike doesn't hesitate or stumble but it just doesn't wind-up and accelerate like I think it should. Perhaps I should try some seat time on other stock bikes to see how my R6 compares.

I'm 255ft above sea level.

I'm 255ft above sea level.

Interesting. Do you know what your needles are set at and the size of your main jets? I might try your setting since we're around the same elevation.

thanks!

How many notches are on the OEM needles? I've got the Ivan's needles (five notches) and another set of needles with six notches. Not sure if they're the OEM ones, or something the PO crammed in there.

The Ivans appear to taper much quicker, and to a much finer point. Considering trying the spare (OEM?) set that I've got...

Oem needles do not have any notches, thats why you have to shim them if you want to adjust them, Ivan's and Factory Pro needles have 5 slots, and Dyna Jet has 6 Slots. I tried the Factory Pro needles and ended up going with Oem needles shimmed and had a better result. Hope this helps

Oem needles do not have any notches, thats why you have to shim them if you want to adjust them, Ivan's and Factory Pro needles have 5 slots, and Dyna Jet has 6 Slots. I tried the Factory Pro needles and ended up going with Oem needles shimmed and had a better result. Hope this helps

:fact This exactly. Factory needles with shims FTW. I even read somewhere a few years ago on FP's website, that race teams were doing the same thing. OEM needles with shims for the strongest, smoothest, and most linear HP pulls on the Dyno.

Interesting. Do you know what your needles are set at and the size of your main jets? I might try your setting since we're around the same elevation.

thanks!

2000 EB5, standard airfilter, lazer exhaust(end can only)
factory pro jets and needles
Jets
#150
#155
Needles set three down from top

pilot screw
3.5 turns out

My elevation is 78 m or 255ft above sea level.

NOTE:
my kit came with 8 C clips so I put one on the three down from top(this sets the height) and put a few washers on top and then used the other C clips to go on the top ring. This was to make the needle more stable and solid (also makes it less likely to loose the washers when putting in or removing them).
I assume this is why they give you them.

:fact This exactly. Factory needles with shims FTW. I even read somewhere a few years ago on FP's website, that race teams were doing the same thing. OEM needles with shims for the strongest, smoothest, and most linear HP pulls on the Dyno.


has anyone got dyno sheets that show this?

has anyone got dyno sheets that show this?

I wish I could still find it, but they either moved it or took it down.

So with all of that said, anyone got an extra set of OEM needles kicking around? Where's the best place to pick up a set online without paying stealership prices?

Been eyeballing this lately:
http://www.flo-commander.com/

Anyone installed one of these yet?

Id like to know exactly what is involved in the installation.

I just want to say thank you all for the great input on this topic! Im close to having my bike figured out.
Im running #152 mains and #40 pilots, factory pro needles 4th down from top with washers on top so they wont move about one on each wish i had two on each. I have a kn air filter would run stock if I had one but I dont.
My bike runs so smooth since I put the #40 pilots in, was so far the best thing to bring it closer to perfect.
My air fuels are 3 turns out.
My only problem seems to be a miss in the 10,000 rpm range which I suspect to be my needles or mains seems to be a lean miss so will move my clips down to the 5th slot if that wont fix it then will go with #155 on the outer two carbs.
Anyway just wanted to say thanks for all the great info, btw im sea level here in bakersfield ca. stay safe rubber side down.

I know this is a old thread but i would like to add my settings on my 02 r6 . my main jets are 148's and pilot jets are 35's. my needles dont have clips so i bought small washers at radio shack and shim them with 3 washers. also 2.75 turns on pilot screws. the exhaust is a stock cut off. the bike runs great the only problem i have is on the frwy at a constant speed and suddenly punch it there is a delay in response,does anyone know why?

I know this is a old thread but i would like to add my settings on my 02 r6 . my main jets are 148's and pilot jets are 35's. my needles dont have clips so i bought small washers at radio shack and shim them with 3 washers. also 2.75 turns on pilot screws. the exhaust is a stock cut off. the bike runs great the only problem i have is on the frwy at a constant speed and suddenly punch it there is a delay in response,does anyone know why?

Just wondering are you in California? Only asking because of the #35 pilot jets. What kind of air filter are you running? When your running down the freeway what rpm are you punching it at?

I just want to say thank you all for the great input on this topic! Im close to having my bike figured out.
Im running #152 mains and #40 pilots, factory pro needles 4th down from top with washers on top so they wont move about one on each wish i had two on each. I have a kn air filter would run stock if I had one but I dont.
My bike runs so smooth since I put the #40 pilots in, was so far the best thing to bring it closer to perfect.
My air fuels are 3 turns out.
My only problem seems to be a miss in the 10,000 rpm range which I suspect to be my needles or mains seems to be a lean miss so will move my clips down to the 5th slot if that wont fix it then will go with #155 on the outer two carbs.
Anyway just wanted to say thanks for all the great info, btw im sea level here in bakersfield ca. stay safe rubber side down.

When i was running a K&N filter, every change i made just moved the miss around to a different rpm, once i went with the OEM filter, the miss went away. I didn't have the original filter, and was not too happy about spending $85 dollars on a OEM air filter, but once i got it installed, it was worth every penny. My K&N filter hangs on the wall next to the clock now. :YEA

I just want to say thank you all for the great input on this topic! Im close to having my bike figured out.
Im running #152 mains and #40 pilots, factory pro needles 4th down from top with washers on top so they wont move about one on each wish i had two on each. I have a kn air filter would run stock if I had one but I dont.
My bike runs so smooth since I put the #40 pilots in, was so far the best thing to bring it closer to perfect.
My air fuels are 3 turns out.
My only problem seems to be a miss in the 10,000 rpm range which I suspect to be my needles or mains seems to be a lean miss so will move my clips down to the 5th slot if that wont fix it then will go with #155 on the outer two carbs.
Anyway just wanted to say thanks for all the great info, btw im sea level here in bakersfield ca. stay safe rubber side down.

At 10k your running on the mains, so moving the needles will not help your lean situation.

At 10k your running on the mains, so moving the needles will not help your lean situation.

I am coming to the same conclusion, seems if I rev it up keeping consistantly half to 3/4 throttle, no miss whatsoever. If I go over 3/4 throttle it misses no matter what the rpm's are so it must be the mains. Came to this conclusion tonight aft a ride around town, had only ridden in the day at 105 temps. The much cooler air made the problem stand out like a sore thumb, as soon as i cracked it past 3/4 throttle miss miss miss pissed me off.... have to pull those suckers out again, at least im getting good at it haha The wierd part is when its so hot was 107 the other day the thing might miss 1x in the whole rpm no matter so i must be close no? So should I go with 158 or 160 have 155 and 152 in now. I am thinking 158 and 155 will be the setup and back to 3rd clip on the needles and a/f where they are now. And yes I think a stock air filter would be the best thing to get as soon as I can throw $80 away, lol just hard to believe the K&N can be the best thing since sliced bread in so many other vehicles but be so worthless in the R6. Sad state it is, i'd say.
P.S. That flo commander is looking better and better all the time to me just got to figure out how to make my own, sure seems like somthing I could make. hehe mabey not

I am coming to the same conclusion, seems if I rev it up keeping consistantly half to 3/4 throttle, no miss whatsoever. If I go over 3/4 throttle it misses no matter what the rpm's are so it must be the mains. Came to this conclusion tonight aft a ride around town, had only ridden in the day at 105 temps. The much cooler air made the problem stand out like a sore thumb, as soon as i cracked it past 3/4 throttle miss miss miss pissed me off.... have to pull those suckers out again, at least im getting good at it haha The wierd part is when its so hot was 107 the other day the thing might miss 1x in the whole rpm no matter so i must be close no? So should I go with 158 or 160 have 155 and 152 in now. I am thinking 158 and 155 will be the setup and back to 3rd clip on the needles and a/f where they are now. And yes I think a stock air filter would be the best thing to get as soon as I can throw $80 away, lol just hard to believe the K&N can be the best thing since sliced bread in so many other vehicles but be so worthless in the R6. Sad state it is, i'd say.
P.S. That flo commander is looking better and better all the time to me just got to figure out how to make my own, sure seems like somthing I could make. hehe mabey not

You should go over to http://factorypro.com/ , go to product support, cv carb tuning, high reving engines. That helped me get mine right. it helps you understand what every change actually does. There is also a note on "pj tuning" that pushed me over the edge on going larger on the pilots.

Basically, you want to make one change at a time and see how it reacts. It takes time to get it right and its a complete pain, but once you find your sweet spot it will be worth every minute you put into it.

It took me 5 try's to get mine running good, i still have a bouncy idle, but when i decide to pull the carbs off for a 6th time, i will make minor adjustments to the mixture screws, also i have not done a sync since i have owned the bike.

You should go over to http://factorypro.com/ , go to product support, cv carb tuning, high reving engines. That helped me get mine right. it helps you understand what every change actually does. There is also a note on "pj tuning" that pushed me over the edge on going larger on the pilots.

Basically, you want to make one change at a time and see how it reacts. It takes time to get it right and its a complete pain, but once you find your sweet spot it will be worth every minute you put into it.

Yes been there and read it before, but always a good idea to read it again and get a fresh perspective. Your comments and posts as well as chief's are what made me decide to go with the larger pilots in the first place, that made the bike run so smooth and steady, idles great. I just need to figure out whats breaking it up at wot. I will pull the plugs and get a look at whats really going on. Who knows I may have some other problem I was unaware of. Seems like the bike tossed a wheel weight cause have a bit of vibration at high speeds I didnt' have before and that may be causing a weak contact to fail. I guess my bike has issues. lol I just like things to be as close to 100% as possible. Thanks for the opinions and sudgestions cheers

So the final outcome is 160's and 158's 3.0 turns out on my AF, #40 pilot's, still using K&N filter. needles are 3rd down from top. The miss I was having was caused by a bad irridium plug. Go figure, bike pulls hard from the bottom to redline, it runs so smooth. Fastest its ever been. It has not been easy but sure is satisfying knowing I did it myself
(by that I mean with everyones suggestions and help from people I ride with) So I am saying thank you to everyone who has posted here with their settings and also Thank You to Sush319. I must say it sure is nice to have the bike running so well. And yes you can do it with a K&N filter, it might run better with the stock one IDK as I only have the one I have. I would have to say the one thing that made the most improvement was putting in the pilot's. If your having problems with idle or cruzing from light to light around town, change your pilots and enjoy your bike again its worth it! Cheers, stay safe!

So the final outcome is 160's and 158's 3.0 turns out on my AF, #40 pilot's, still using K&N filter. needles are 3rd down from top. The miss I was having was caused by a bad irridium plug. Go figure, bike pulls hard from the bottom to redline, it runs so smooth. Fastest its ever been. It has not been easy but sure is satisfying knowing I did it myself
(by that I mean with everyones suggestions and help from people I ride with) So I am saying thank you to everyone who has posted here with their settings and also Thank You to Sush319. I must say it sure is nice to have the bike running so well. And yes you can do it with a K&N filter, it might run better with the stock one IDK as I only have the one I have. I would have to say the one thing that made the most improvement was putting in the pilot's. If your having problems with idle or cruzing from light to light around town, change your pilots and enjoy your bike again its worth it! Cheers, stay safe!

:cheers Glad to hear you got it worked out, Enjoy!

For All you guys running factory pro kits my instructions say inner cyl jet 155 outer at 150 I have not seen that opposite staggering mentioned anywhere I even contacted Marc at f.p. he says instructions are right? Just curious if anyone else seen this on there instructions

what are the advantages and disadvantages of have a jet kit installed? I just cleaned my carbs and as far as i know everything is stock for me.

So the final outcome is 160's and 158's 3.0 turns out on my AF, #40 pilot's, still using K&N filter. needles are 3rd down from top. The miss I was having was caused by a bad irridium plug. Go figure, bike pulls hard from the bottom to redline, it runs so smooth. Fastest its ever been. It has not been easy but sure is satisfying knowing I did it myself
(by that I mean with everyones suggestions and help from people I ride with) So I am saying thank you to everyone who has posted here with their settings and also Thank You to Sush319. I must say it sure is nice to have the bike running so well. And yes you can do it with a K&N filter, it might run better with the stock one IDK as I only have the one I have. I would have to say the one thing that made the most improvement was putting in the pilot's. If your having problems with idle or cruzing from light to light around town, change your pilots and enjoy your bike again its worth it! Cheers, stay safe!

I just cleaned my carbs. I cleaned everything but the pilot screw because it had a plug on it that i would have to drill out. Reading your comment makes me want to clean them. So should I buy new pilot screw or just clean the stock ones? Should I install a new plug over it like my clymer book tells me too? I am currently planning to sync my carbs later this week when my sync comes in the mail. So i figured i might as well check the pilot screw. Any advice will help. My bike runs run fine, just cant idle well. So i keep the idle adjustment at 3ks when i ride for now.

I just cleaned my carbs. I cleaned everything but the pilot screw because it had a plug on it that i would have to drill out. Reading your comment makes me want to clean them. So should I buy new pilot screw or just clean the stock ones? Should I install a new plug over it like my clymer book tells me too? I am currently planning to sync my carbs later this week when my sync comes in the mail. So i figured i might as well check the pilot screw. Any advice will help. My bike runs run fine, just cant idle well. So i keep the idle adjustment at 3ks when i ride for now.

If their way out of sync it will not want to idle, just a little out shouldn't affect it much. No need to put new plugs over the mixture screws.

I was having problems with the low speed and idle in excess I would fix one problem only to ecounter another and turning out the pilot screw 4 x brought me the best low and idle but syncn' carbs and adjusting needle pos would not fix, I read a comment chief said about if ya want rock solid idle go with #40 pilot jets so I figured he must know and wow once i did that everything else came together, I know you should work out main jet first and i would reccomend doing so. In retrospect the pilots made the biggest differance as to how the bike runs for me, made everything so smooth and made the adjustments applied afterwards more noticeable for me that it is, air fuel and needle clip changes I could see good or bad which way to go easier if that is possible just the way it appeared to me, understand I was also learning along the way too so my understanding of the process also improved. (I hope) I dont see a reason to replace the covers for the A/F screws either, just a good cleaning of the passageways with some carb cleaner ect. and adjustment. shush319 is wise and helpfull also I think you may be confused as to pilot jet and A/F but I could be wrong I dont want to make assumptions sorry

has anyone tried to get the jets out without removing the carbs, just unscrewing the float cover while carbs are on bike? I want to clean the emulsion tubes

has anyone tried to get the jets out without removing the carbs, just unscrewing the float cover while carbs are on bike? I want to clean the emulsion tubes

Impossible!

Does the emulsion tubes clog as easily as the pilot jets?

No but they can if there is that much junk in the system, a thrurough cleaning is allways best. I used 3 or 4 cans of carb cleaner and seafoam just to be sure. (And a bright flashlight)
and No you cannot remove anything effectively with carbs on the bike!! Take your time do it right or dont do it at all!! i cant stress that enough. Dont waste your time doing a half ass job because when its not running right you'll know why....

Yeah, I took the carbs apart a few weeks ago and took out the pilots and the main jets but not the emulsion tubes, didnt know I should. Yamaha guys said try some ring free, seems to be helping.

I used the carb cleaner in every passage unscrewed all the parts that were related pilots mains and emulsion tubes soaked in seafoam and sprayed the carb cleaner in the air jets and all passageways and checked with flashlight b4 reassemble just to be sure. Also taking time to be sure the small holes on pilots sides and emulsion tubes were all clear and clean. Also I took apart my fuel petcock and cleaned, found an abundance of muck in there for some reason, may have been just my bike but worth mentioning considering all that I found in that thing!!

My bike sat for over 12 mo.s its amazing all the junk that builds up. guessnits the alcohol in the gas

Your probably right, so make sure that stuff is all clean, take your time, makes all the differance in the world as to how it will run. also that way you can hopefully rule that out as a problem later, it will pay off if you do it right, took me a couple of trys but once I got comfortable with taking em off and putting em on it was a breeze. I can take em off adjust and put em back on in 45 min now (thats tank airbox and cables hoses and accessories) so not too bad, considering it took me 3or4 hours just to get carbs off b4 lol

thats true I was scared the first time now it should be easy. Did you plug off the carb coolant lines? I was thinking of doing that. Do you clean around the carbs before you remove them? just wondering

Here's what I've got: 02 r6
OEM air filter
FactoryPro spec custom V stax
Two Bros slip on (chopped)
Dyno Jet stage 1 kit, I think... (needles have 6 slots)
Clips on 3rd slot. 2 washers on top
Mains jets: 142's on 1 and 2
140's on 2 and 3
Pilots are 35's (WTF? Non Cali model???)
Mix screws are 2.75 turns out
200ft above sea level

I just cleaned carbs and it runs good and smooth through the whole RPM range with these new settings. Put a new set of plugs in too. I want to get some #40 pilots if it will make it run even better but I have no complaints as of now.
I have this adjustable timing advancer I want to install but need a second opinion on the way it should be set. I think I need to turn the outside piece clockwise to get the advance 3 degrees. The way it's set in the pic I believe to be advanced. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks

advancer won't do you any good, you should probably just sell it to me..

How is your idle? I still have a bouncy idle on mine and can't figure it out.

Here's what I've got: 02 r6
OEM air filter
FactoryPro spec custom V stax
Two Bros slip on (chopped)
Dyno Jet stage 1 kit, I think... (needles have 6 slots)
Clips on 3rd slot. 2 washers on top
Mains jets: 142's on 1 and 2
140's on 2 and 3
Pilots are 35's (WTF? Non Cali model???)
Mix screws are 2.75 turns out
200ft above sea level

I just cleaned carbs and it runs good and smooth through the whole RPM range with these new settings. Put a new set of plugs in too. I want to get some #40 pilots if it will make it run even better but I have no complaints as of now.
I have this adjustable timing advancer I want to install but need a second opinion on the way it should be set. I think I need to turn the outside piece clockwise to get the advance 3 degrees. The way it's set in the pic I believe to be advanced. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks

If I had to guess, the big line in the middle is stock and you can go either +2 or -2 with the marks. I got lucky and scored a +4 Factory Pro awhile ago and what a difference that thing made. Best $50 bolt on I've bought for this thing.

advancer won't do you any good, you should probably just sell it to me..<br />
<br />
How is your idle? I still have a bouncy idle on mine and can't figure it out.

Yea it's not for sale and it idles smooth. But when I rev it and let go it hangs around 3k for a couple of seconds before slowly dropping to idle..


Back on my advancer, there's only 2 marks for advance or retard but it will slide over to where a 3rd mark should be. Are the marks to the left of the big "stock" mark for advance or retard?

I have no idea which way is advance. I have to change my timing cover with a Woodcraft one some time this week. If I can find my factory advancer, I'll hold it up to the FP one and I can tell from there which way is advance. Hopefully I can find the old one.

Hanging up on the idle means it is lean, try 3-3.5 turns out on the screws.

DJ is the only jet kit with jets that small and 6 clip positions. I've heard it is all but useless on these bikes. Ivans or Factory Pro is what everyone has used for the most part since these bikes were made.

http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/ss288/rgvsidewayz/DSC_1059.jpg

if any one wants to fill in the rpms to match this diagram feel free it might help anyone having problems.

Ok so i have never messed with carbs... i work on fuel injected cars all day as im a auto tech. :P so i figured id give jetting my carbs a shot. I have no idea what my elevation is, havent searched it yet. i live in waterloo IA and i am looking to either just buy seperate jets or buy a factory pro kit. What do you guys recommend? And also if i dont get the kit do i just shim the needles? Any help would be appreciated!!! Thanks

Bryant

Ok , since I have adjustable needles could I just copy your jet sizes and be better than the DJ setup? We have about the same engine mods. Or are the FP needles different than the DJ other than the notches?

Ok so i have never messed with carbs... i work on fuel injected cars all day as im a auto tech. :P so i figured id give jetting my carbs a shot. I have no idea what my elevation is, havent searched it yet. i live in waterloo IA and i am looking to either just buy seperate jets or buy a factory pro kit. What do you guys recommend? And also if i dont get the kit do i just shim the needles? Any help would be appreciated!!! Thanks

Bryant

Yes, just shimming the needles will work (seems to work better then FP needles IMO). You could get close with the jets by studying some of the settings listed here, but may need to adjust up or down 1 size for your particular situation.


Ok , since I have adjustable needles could I just copy your jet sizes and be better than the DJ setup? We have about the same engine mods. Or are the FP needles different than the DJ other than the notches?

If you do copy jet sizes, use genuine Kehin jets. Other than the notches, I really don't know about the DJ needles, I ended up putting the factory needles back in and shimming them before I got mine smoothed out (ended up adding another shim (think I'm at 1.1mm now) once I started hitting the track, made the 6-8k steady maintainer throttle around corners butter smooth, it was breaking up and annoying before).

ok so i figured out im 846 ft. above sea level so theres a start :D

I would think my set up would be a close start for you, i'm at 875' above. My bike runs awesome other than at idle.

what are your exact specs...

Check out the thread "idle got the best of me" i listed my set up there, also i just posted a video of my bike.

would these be ok to use for my needles?

http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/S-S-Cycle-Shim-Kit-5-16in-I-D-Breather-17-0314-p/4612687.htm?Click=35177

and also off this page here what all do i want to order?

http://www.jetsrus.com/a_jet_kit_street/yamaha_600_YZF-R6.htm

Those shims will be way too big.

Is it possible to replace just the o-rings on the mixture screws? I can't find them without having to buy the whole screw kit.

where can i get some good shims?