Well for the next round of mods to the bike, decided to go with -1/+2 sprockets. Once again called up Mike at MJSPerformance, as always, Mike answered every question I had, and gave me plenty of advice. Ended up ordering 15 tooth Vortex front sprocket, 47 tooth Vortex rear sprocket (aluminum), EK chain, and SpeedoTuner.

http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/bike/chain1.jpg

http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/bike/chain2.jpg

Rear sprocket seemed easy enough, but it turned out to be a disaster. FSM said to torque the sprocket nuts to 72 ft-lbs. Not thinking anything about it being only a 10mm stud, I start to torque them to 72 ft-lbs, and promptly strip to nuts, the other 4 actually did torque. Ended up having to remove the studs (with nuts still freely spinning on them) from the hub, and find a local source for 10mm hardened studs, and nuts. I found some, just slightly shorted, replaced all the studs, and torqued to 45 ft-lbs. (10mm bolt, class 10.9 is supposed to have a maximum torque of 47 ft-lbs.) Not sure if this was an error in the FSM or what?

http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/bike/chain3.jpg

15 tooth, and 16 tooth front sprockets next to each other.

http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/bike/chain4.jpg

On my bike, I've tried real hard not to have anything real flashy, no logos, etc, trying to keep a clean look. I originally was leaning towards just a silver sprocket, and silver chain. Mike kept saying the black looks really good with all the rest of the black stuff on the rear. Now I'm really glad he talked me into the black, it looks good.

http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/bike/chain5.jpg

As for the install, well for some reason everything fought me. Now I can say first thing you do on a chain install: clean off every LAST bit of grease they put on the chain from the factory first. It was a metric crap load of grease on the chain, I wiped most of it off before even riding it, and you still couldn't tell it was black. The grease that was on there, got flung all over my paint, tires, and everything else back there. And when I say tires, I mean in the tread and all, it was extremely dangerous. I went through an entire bottle of degreaser getting all that crap off. Plus half a bottle of some paint prep stuff to remove the grease from the painted surfaces. (The pictures above are after I cleaned all the grease off the chain, and re-lubed it correctly)

The chain ended up the same length as the factory chain, honestly if I had to do it over, I probably wouldn't have even changed the chain. I tried one extra link in the chain, and it had the adjustment on 4th mark so the rear wheel was pretty far back, and I was worried about having enough adjustment, so I cut one more link out, which resulted in the adjusters being all the way forward.

As for riveting the chain, ended up using the harbor freight chain breaker, with a ball bearing in the end, and metal plate on the back side, worked great.

http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/bike/chain6.jpg

looks good in the back bro!

Yea those rear sprocket bolts dont torque that high i remember reading that before i did mine. I just did the -1 /+2 last week i was gonna post it but looks like you beat me to it. I used the same harbor freight tool but for the master i used a screw type master link its self riviting.

Heres some pics of my setup

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v643/S1ckn3s/2027b553.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v643/S1ckn3s/8868d970.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v643/S1ckn3s/4696016c.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v643/S1ckn3s/311e99b3.jpg

i did mine last week and didnt have a problem torquing them down to around 70.. just do the star pattern and torque them down in stages..40..50..ect.

what do you think about the acceleration?

Yeah that torque number has been off for some time now. 45ftlbs is plenty. Glad you were able to get it fixed up. Ive stripped 1 or 2 out in my day before I figured out the printed torque value was wrong. Doop

Lookin good! I'm gonna be due for a new sprocket/chain kit in the near future...

Must be sprocket season, just did mine this past weekend as well. I 2nd the motion to remove the factory grease before the first ride. I thought I wiped mine off good enough, but still ended up getting flung everywhere. Can't wait till weather clears enough to really test them out.

Even when you wipe it off you'll still have shit that gets everywhere...just clean it up after each ride for awhile

I suggest leaving the factory grease on there. You will never get grease like that so deep into ever crevice. Let it fling off. It wipes off in one swipe with goo gone.. And honestly, that factory grease lasts forever(really long) too..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v643/S1ckn3s/311e99b3.jpg

your chain looks a lil loose like mine did.... didn't cut off enough links so had to buy new master link and redo :rant

what do you think about the acceleration?

I'm happy with it, it definitely revs up quicker. I don't know in my mind I sort of expected more, but I couldn't have gone anymore and still ridden it on the highway really, so it's a good compromise. I'd go the same route again, so I'd say money well spent. It's definitely the most bang for your buck.

You will never get grease like that so deep into ever crevice. Let it fling off. It wipes off in one swipe with goo gone.. And honestly, that factory grease lasts forever(really long) too..

You'll never get all the grease out anyways, and if you lube your chain like you're supposed to I don't see it being a problem (Not being trying to be a smart ass, Just saying I don't forsee it being a problem). Maybe my chain was greased by the "new guy" at the factory or something, but it was flat dangerous, on the tire treads and everything.

i did mine last week and didn't have a problem torquing them down to around 70.. just do the star pattern and torque them down in stages..40..50..ect.

That's what I did, 4 of the 6 torqued to 72 ft-lbs. However the other two did not. I couldn't find a single manufacturer that recommends that high of a torque for a 10mm fastener. It's got to be a mis-print in the manual.

Even when you wipe it off you'll still have shit that gets everywhere...just clean it up after each ride for awhile

Yeah I noticed, I degreased mine pretty good, and when I got home from work today, it still had grease in a few places...

the torque specs ARE a misprint. most dealers now will recommend some blue loctite and torquing to about 50. and getting to 50 is a joke.

lemme know when you're ready for a speedoDRD. :)

the torque specs ARE a misprint. most dealers now will recommend some blue loctite and torquing to about 50. and getting to 50 is a joke.

lemme know when you're ready for a speedoDRD. :)

Most info I saw said even 50 was too high, 10.9 said 45 ft-lbs, even 12.9 says 49 ft-lbs.

Now I did find a couple tables that said 12.9 could be torqued to 70 ft-lbs, but that was lubricated, oil on the threads, same source says 50 ft-lbs dry.

I got a speedo tuner, with everything when I ordered it from MJSPerformance. Just got done hooking the speedo tuner up actually, getting ready to go take it out and hopefully get it set.

your chain looks a lil loose like mine did.... didn't cut off enough links so had to buy new master link and redo :rant


Yea I cut about 4 links off an the wheel was back a little to fit the chain I moved it forward an adjusted the chain tension it's tighter now.

Just got done hooking up the SpeedoTuner:

http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/bike/speedo1.jpg

The instructions suck ***, but here is how it works, in case anyone else has trouble figuring out their cookie-cutter instructions.

The speedo plug is white, right side of the bike, just under the gas tank back close to the battery, it's below a couple plugs, but it's easy enough to see without tanking the tank off completely, you can just lift it up to get to it.

Once it's hooked up, route the wiring outside the seat, and make sure a passenger can hold it (you could do it yourself, but probably safer for a passenger to do it).

1. Ride the bike at 60 MPH, actually 60 MPH, not what the speedometer says. For my bike, that was 70 MPH (70 MPH as indicated on the speedometer).

2. Press and hold the button until the light blinks rapidly. (5-6 seconds) (Release the button when it starts to blink rapidly.)

3. Now press the button again until the blink slows down (1-2 seconds). Make sure you are still riding at a "true" 60 MPH (again on my bike the speedo is indicating 70 MPH).

4. Now actually make the speedometer say 60 MPH. Press the button again for 1-2 seconds, and the blinking should stop.

5. The light should go solid, and the speedo should jump to your actual speed. (Mine went from indicating 60 MPH, to indicating 53 MPH pretty much instantly)

that thing is MASSIVE. is that an "mjs product" or better yet, who makes it?

i heard sprocket swaps mess with your odometer. is that true?

without a speedo correction device, yes. it will make your bike think it's going faster and in turn, further, then you actually are, and in doing so you'll be clicking up miles that haven't actually ridden. hence the speedoDRD in my sig. ;)

that thing is MASSIVE. is that an "mjs product" or better yet, who makes it?

It is a little large, it's not by MJS, it's just what Mike at MJS sent me. It's from SpeedoTuner (http://www.speedotuner.com/)

it does the same thing as a speedotuner. Only downside to it is that it requires riding your bike to program it and have the rear wheel going/moving while programming it. Not the easiest to program, but it does the same thing as the speedoDRD and Speedohealer.

BTW the grease that the chain comes with is the best stuff you'll ever get. Best to wipe it down with a rag then leave the rest in there.

so the speddodrd corrects the speedo and odo?
sweet i was hesitate because ,since it being a new bike and all, of that but now i might do this.

so the speddodrd corrects the speedo and odo?
sweet i was hesitate because ,since it being a new bike and all, of that but now i might do this.

The odometer goes off the speedo, so if your speedo is correct so is the odometer.

I waited until my factory warranty was up, and then pretty much did everything at once, exhaust, etc.

The sprockets make a pretty big difference, thats for sure, best bang for your buck. If you go the 520 route, you'll go through chains and sprockets slightly quicker. Thats why I ended up staying 525.

As said above the speedo and odometer work together. So the speedodrd, speedohealer, and speedotuner basically do the same thing. Each unit is just a little bit different in terms of size, how to program it, features, and price.

ahh i see thanks for the info

What do you lose off the top end of the bike in terms of MPH after a -1/+2 change? Highway riding has me thinking twice about doing this mod. I would hate to be doing 80 and have the bike screaming around 10,000 rpm in 6th gear.

What do you lose off the top end of the bike in terms of MPH after a -1/+2 change? Highway riding has me thinking twice about doing this mod. I would hate to be doing 80 and have the bike screaming around 10,000 rpm in 6th gear.

According to a gearing calculator, 6th gear is ~ 1:100 ratio speed:rpms with -1/+2, ie 80mph ~ 8000rpm. I don't have any real world data though

speedoDRD FTW!