Does anyone have any imput on thsese? I hear that 2 up on the back and 1 down on the front is the way to go. Can I get some other views?
Thanks!







T-minus 3 weeks until I'm on the way home. :jump

I don't liek the looks of vortex sprockets, and everyone and their dog has vortex.

I like the SS sprockets

I have heard some issues of premature wear on the Vortex aluminum rear sprockets. I haven't experienced it myself, but I went with Sprocket Specialists on my bike and am happy.

And as far as setting your gearing... what kind of riding do you do?

The tracks I ride on the most are pretty short and curvy. I could probably go even lower than 1dn/2up, maybe 2dn/2up as long as the chain won't bind. But since it is a track only bike, I don't have to worry about the revs for cruising on the highway.

I have heard some issues of premature wear on the Vortex aluminum rear sprockets.

So have I... I have a picture somewhere of one that failed... i'll see if I can dig it up...

I really don't do alot of really hard riding. I'm looking for good low end speed off the start.

I don't liek the looks of vortex sprockets, and everyone and their dog has vortex.

I like the SS sprockets

I couldnt agree more... Vortex look :gay



**1 dn AND 2 up is a MAJOR change, unless this is what you want, consider two up in back stock front, or for a little more one down in front stock rear**

How much of a difference are we talking?

One down in the front, and two up in the back is what I have, and I would suggest it to anyone. Go with whoever you want on the sprockets, just replace the sprockets and chain in a set, or a package deal if you can get it. If you keep up on the chain maintenance, and always keep it adjusted, the whole set should last you a long time. The sprockets are easy to put on, if you plan on doing it yourself, you are going to have to cut the stock chain off. The new one should come with a master link. Oh, yeah...throw some blue locktight on the bolts for the rear sprocket.

**1 dn AND 2 up is a MAJOR change, unless this is what you want, consider two up in back stock front, or for a little more one down in front stock rear**

If you try this method, go with the 1 down in the front first, since the two have almost identical results, the front sprocket is cheaper, and easier to put on.

To give you an idea of what MAJOR is, I can smoke 750's from a stoplight, all the way up to around 130...The bike will do 4th gear stand-up wheelies...and I can still get into to 150's. I've got an exhaust, and a PC3, too.

How hard is it to change the front?

**1 dn AND 2 up is a MAJOR change, unless this is what you want, consider two up in back stock front, or for a little more one down in front stock rear**

If you try this method, go with the 1 down in the front first, since the two have almost identical results, the front sprocket is cheaper, and easier to put on.

To give you an idea of what MAJOR is, I can smoke 750's from a stoplight, all the way up to around 130...The bike will do 4th gear stand-up wheelies...and I can still get into to 150's. I've got an exhaust, and a PC3, too.

Dont mean to be argumenative, but one down in front is almost twice the change in gear ratio as two up in the rear.

It goes like this powerwise

2 up in back = the bikes manners stay about the same, just gives you a mild increase in power

1 dn in front = A very noticeable increase and the bike will start to act differently. Front wheel will come up easier, you will have to shift a lot more. lots more power

2 up and 1 down = your bike now acts like bigger bike. Shifting becomes very frequent, the front wheel comes up if you make a mistake, road manners are changed. This changes your bike.



How hard is it to change the front?

not hard at all

Take off sprocket cover, it is a plastic cover with like six bolts. snaking it out from behind the shifter rod is the hardest part.

loosen the rear wheel and take off the chain.

Bend the lock washer over - it is a small thin washer that has a flange on it, a screwdriver and a mallet will easily help you complete this sttep.

Remove the one nut that holds the sprocket on.

Remove the sprocket (it might be tuff to get it off due to the amount of shit that gets clogged in between the area.

put the new one on,

put the lock washer then the nut on,

torque the **** out of the nut (like 108 lbs or something obnoxious-consult your manual) bend over the new lock washer, look at it from the back of the bike to make sure the chain is straight

put the cover on

try it out

Get ready for some wheelies!!!!

Also, the Vortex sprockets look ghetto buy a good one

If you guys are looking to get sprockets give my buddy Gene a call at www.gearworksmfg.com good prices and he can answer any questions you have.

http://www.chicagoriders.com/forum/uploads/post-23-1075943929.jpg

he has tires wheels and mini chopper parts too if you need any of those.

I don't mean to be argumentative either, but dropping one tooth in the front is almost exactly the same (0.30 ratio difference) as adding three teeth in the rear.

The stock ratio is 58.5 or 16/48.
If you drop a tooth in the front and keep the 48 rear, it changes to 62.4
If you keep the 16 front and add three to the rear, it changes to 62.1

So from the choice of 1 in the front, or two in the rear, there is a little difference, but not a whole lot. 60.9 is the ratio for a 16/50 combo.

Personally, I would drop a tooth in the front, before I added to the rear. Like I said, it is easier, and cheaper.

Great information! I think I will do 1 down in the front to start off.


Now I need to know.... How is this going to effect my MPH gauge? How do I fix it?

Chris 23 days left!!!

it is going to royally jack it up!! it will say you are going about 8 mph faster than you really are. you can get this thing called i think a yellow box or something that will fix it but that costs like 100 bucks. :moon not worth it if you ask me (for the box) i would def do the sproket though

I don't mean to be argumentative either, but dropping one tooth in the front is almost exactly the same (0.30 ratio difference) as adding three teeth in the rear.

The stock ratio is 58.5 or 16/48.
If you drop a tooth in the front and keep the 48 rear, it changes to 62.4
If you keep the 16 front and add three to the rear, it changes to 62.1

So from the choice of 1 in the front, or two in the rear, there is a little difference, but not a whole lot. 60.9 is the ratio for a 16/50 combo.

Personally, I would drop a tooth in the front, before I added to the rear. Like I said, it is easier, and cheaper.

again not being mean or be a smarty-pants...but Math is one thing i cannot be argued with upon...


Gear ratios are shown in thins format ----> X:1

X represents the number of teeth on the rear sprocket for every 1 on the front

Stock (48/16) = 3.000
or a ratio of 3.000:1 (exactly 3 teeth on the rear for each tooth on the front)

two up in the rear (50/16) = 3.125
a ratio of 3.125:1 (seems like a small change but it is a major difference)

one down in front (48/15) = 3.200
a ratio of 3.200:1 (quite a bit larger tahn the 3.125:1 ratio resulting from the previous example)

Just for everybody's info:
one dn AND two up (50/15) = 3.333
a ratio of 3.333:1 ( MADNESS, I TELLS YOU...MADNESS!!!!)

These seem like small numbers but yor engine turns over like 8-10,000 times per minute under heavy use so these small numbers SEVERELY change the number of times your rear wheel make a full rotation in a given amount of time SEVERELY changing the way it performs

I am not trying to "show anybody up" I just want to spread the knowledge!

Also, xr6ross is right your speedo wil be ****

(Although they are not overly accurate from the factory either)

I don't mean to be argumentative either, but dropping one tooth in the front is almost exactly the same (0.30 ratio difference) as adding three teeth in the rear.

The stock ratio is 58.5 or 16/48.
If you drop a tooth in the front and keep the 48 rear, it changes to 62.4
If you keep the 16 front and add three to the rear, it changes to 62.1

So from the choice of 1 in the front, or two in the rear, there is a little difference, but not a whole lot. 60.9 is the ratio for a 16/50 combo.

Personally, I would drop a tooth in the front, before I added to the rear. Like I said, it is easier, and cheaper.

again not being mean or be a smarty-pants...but Math is one thing i cannot be argued with upon...


Gear ratios are shown in thins format ----> X:1

X represents the number of teeth on the rear sprocket for every 1 on the front

Stock (48/16) = 3.000
or a ratio of 3.000:1 (exactly 3 teeth on the rear for each tooth on the front)

two up in the rear (50/16) = 3.125
a ratio of 3.125:1 (seems like a small change but it is a major difference)

one down in front (48/15) = 3.200
a ratio of 3.200:1 (quite a bit larger tahn the 3.125:1 ratio resulting from the previous example)

Just for everybody's info:
one dn AND two up (50/15) = 3.333
a ratio of 3.333:1 ( MADNESS, I TELLS YOU...MADNESS!!!!)

These seem like small numbers but yor engine turns over like 8-10,000 times per minute under heavy use so these small numbers SEVERELY change the number of times your rear wheel make a full rotation in a given amount of time SEVERELY changing the way it performs

I am not trying to "show anybody up" I just want to spread the knowledge!

nerd

Check this out: http://www.wfo.net/sprockets.html or any other site you can find. Check out the 16/48 combo, 15/48, and 16/51. Those will be the results from dropping one, or adding three. If you want a :1 then take whatever number you come up with, and throw a :1 behind it.

Check this out: http://www.wfo.net/sprockets.html or any other site you can find. Check out the 16/48 combo, 15/48, and 16/51. Those will be the results from dropping one, or adding three. If you want a :1 then take whatever number you come up with, and throw a :1 behind it.

good

thank you for proving my point, that chart exactly agrees with everything i said

It makes things easier for me...

Im gonna change to 12/52 and jus tflip over backwards all the time!!

The stock ratio is 58.5 or 16/48.
If you drop a tooth in the front and keep the 48 rear, it changes to 62.4
If you keep the 16 front and add three to the rear, it changes to 62.1

So from the choice of 1 in the front, or two in the rear, there is a little difference, but not a whole lot. 60.9 is the ratio for a 16/50 combo.

Personally, I would drop a tooth in the front, before I added to the rear. Like I said, it is easier, and cheaper.

16/48 = 58.5?

16/48 = 0.3333
48/16 = 3.0000

where is this math coming from?

The stock ratio is 58.5 or 16/48.
If you drop a tooth in the front and keep the 48 rear, it changes to 62.4
If you keep the 16 front and add three to the rear, it changes to 62.1

So from the choice of 1 in the front, or two in the rear, there is a little difference, but not a whole lot. 60.9 is the ratio for a 16/50 combo.

Personally, I would drop a tooth in the front, before I added to the rear. Like I said, it is easier, and cheaper.

16/48 = 58.5?

16/48 = 0.3333
48/16 = 3.0000

where is this math coming from?

I was using a graph that also took into effect the diameter of the tire.

You guys are soooooo funny! I really love the info you guys and galls give keep it comming.

Now.... what can I do about my Spedo? The "tellow box" the only fix?

Chris

22 Days to go! :jump

or you can try www.speedohealer.com

[quote=miraclegrau]

Im gonna change to 12/52 and jus tflip over backwards all the time!!

lol if you do that i want to race you. top speed of 80 mph :hammer :hammer

isn't 1 down in the front the same as a 520 conversion?

no a 520 conversion is changing the chain from 530 to 520 which is a bit smaller. when you change the chain you also have to change the sprockets cause the teeth will be too big. usually if you have to change the sprockets anyway people will change the sizes like going down 1 in the front

the previous owner said he converted the bike over toa 520. so i should assume he put the smaller chain on there (obviously) and dropped one tooth in front?

well he did do the smaller chain but you will have to ask him about the sprocket sizes. or you could just take a look at it and it should say the size right on the side. the stock front is 16 teeth

isn't 1 down in the front the same as a 520 conversion?

520 conversion is actually swapping out your stock chain and sprockets for a narrower setup

the stock chain size is 532 (it is the width that changes not the length of the links)

now, just swapping out the chain will not work because the stock sprockets are 532 sprockets meaning they are too thick to asccommodate a narrower chain.

The benefit of doing the 520 conversion is less weight. Yea, the narrower 520 chain matched with a set of aftermarket lightweight sprockets makes a big difference in unsprung and rotational weight

A drawback of this mod is less strength, but the 532 is WAY overkill for a 600, and i have not heard of anyone having problems with a 520

You can do any gearing you can do with a 532 using a 520 setup.

Hope that clears things up

oh okay so it has nothing to do with how many teeth rather just norrower chain and sprocket to make for lighter rotation.

you got it man. i wish i had a 520 conversion, it costs about 200 bucks

well unfortunatly my chain and sprockets need replacing lots of uneven ware on the chain.

he mentioned the bike having a higher top speed of 175 instead of 155. so he probably put a 15 on the front and 52 or something on the back? I'd rather have more power to get up and go then being able to go 175...!

well about the uneven wear he probably didnt align the sprockets right when he put them on.

if he said that the top speed was raised that would mean that he actually went up teeth in the front or down in the back.

what is stock? 16/50? or something?

16/48

well about the uneven wear he probably didnt align the sprockets right when he put them on.

if he said that the top speed was raised that would mean that he actually went up teeth in the front or down in the back.


How do you align the sprockets?

Wow... you guys are so much smarter than me when it comes to this stuff. I am learning so much!

Besides geiing an expensive chail... what do you look for in a good one?


21 days to go!

well about the uneven wear he probably didnt align the sprockets right when he put them on.

if he said that the top speed was raised that would mean that he actually went up teeth in the front or down in the back.


How do you align the sprockets?

well about the uneven wear he probably didnt align the sprockets right when he put them on.

if he said that the top speed was raised that would mean that he actually went up teeth in the front or down in the back.


How do you align the sprockets?

check this out for the chain and sprockets

http://www.yzfr6.net/manual/R6_manual_chasis.pdf

pretty much any aftermarket chain is good, you just want to look at strength and if it has o-rings.

there are also a ton of manuals available for downloading here (http://www.r6-forum.com/nuke/modules.php?name=Downloads&d_op=viewdownload&cid=3)

this is the list............feel free to check them out and d/l them.
2003 Engine manual
2003 R6 manual chasis
Pre 03 Carb manual
Pre 03 Chasis Manual
Pre 03 Cooling system
Pre 03 manual adjustments
Pre 03 R6 Electrical system
Pre 03 R6 Engine manual
Pre 03 R6 Specs
Pre 03 R6 trouble shooting
Pre 03 R6 wiring

well about the uneven wear he probably didnt align the sprockets right when he put them on.

if he said that the top speed was raised that would mean that he actually went up teeth in the front or down in the back.


How do you align the sprockets?

The front one is aligned using the shims that come with it. you put the shims one one side or the other to locate the sprocket in the same plane as the rear.

The back one you align using the two adjuster screws on the swingarm. It is sufficient to just eyeball it (lookdown the chain from the rear of the bike and spin the wheel), but there are more complicated ways to make sure it is lined up.