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Motorcycle Suspension Setup 101

187K views 199 replies 71 participants last post by  R6Ruckus 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I've been riding for almost 30 years, and I've learned a little about the sport and the machines. But somehow, I've developed an affinity for the suspension issues of the machines we ride. Somehow I think it's because so many people focus on power, and so many people are not keen on working on handling it.

In the following series of posts, I hope to get some information that can help with a basic setup. As the thread continues, I hope we can discuss chassis setup matters and learn from each other.

I've read several books, watched many videos, and searched through many websites and forum posts for this information, so I hope it helps someone.

I'm breaking it down into different sections. Hopefully, if you are tuning your suspension, you will follow the thread and get somewhere you haven't been. Remember, if the rest were meant to be set one way, the factory would not have made it adjustable.

In the world of motorcycling, we encounter many changing conditions, and we modify our machines to accommodate them and customize our machines to suit individual tastes. But one of the areas typically left unchecked is the suspension. And when we do address our break, many have the tendency to go from one extreme to the other by purchasing mega-buck parts that we may not necessarily need. Often, a basic setup with the stock or mildly modified details is all we need.

In this thread, I'd like to address some of the basics of suspension setup. As you will find, there is no one set adjustment for everyone to use, and it's fine-tuning the component setup to accommodate the specifics of an individual pilot on a given motorcycle. I hope you'll learn something from the following and better understand how to adjust your suspension to provide yourself with the best handling and comfort possible.
 
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#152 ·
Question: when setting the static/rider sag..... where do all the other settings (preload, compression, rebound, etc...) are supposed to be set?

Does it matter?
 
#153 ·
preload will be adjusted in or out based on how the sag numbers are.. too much sag - you add preload, too little sag - dial some out. The comp/reb don't matter, they don't affect sag unless something is wrong with the shim stack/valving. this assumes your springs are in the ballpark too. If you have to dial in so much rear shock preload to get the rider sag you want that there is zero free sag (the bike is topped out with you off the bike) the spring is too soft. (for example).
 
#154 ·
When adjusting the rear shock...which way does the clicker need to go for it to go from 34 to 30 mm? Clock wise or counter clockwise? And how many clicks approximately is that?

I had someone do all the measurements, but I didn't have the proper tool at the time to adjust it.

Thanks for the help.
 
#155 ·
There's no 'clicker' for adjusting sag / pre-load. You're turning the collar on the spring perch. Clockwise will add pre-load, and reduce sag.

The number of notches you'll need to adjust the collar is going to depend on how much you weigh and what spring is in there. You need to adjust it and remeasure and repeat until you've got it where you want. Somebody with more experience might be able to ballpark it for you with some accuracy.

Based on my limited experience, I'd probably try 2 notches and then remeasure. I'm really just throwing a random number at it though.
 
#160 ·
Coming soon... web casts with a reputable tuner

Some of you know that I've been talking to a well known tuner about organizing some motorcycle specific web casts, about once a month starting in November, to discuss things he's learned about our model bike. After about 30-40 minutes of presentation, he will have an "Ask ----" session for 20 minutes or so to allow us to ask any questions we may have on bike setup, from ergonomics to chassis geometry to damping considerations, and anything else control related.

This is really a great opportunity to have dedicated attention of a true suspension genius, and I am looking forward to post more detail very soon. I'll link it in this thread.
 
#161 ·
Re: Coming soon... web casts with a reputable tuner

Some of you know that I've been talking to a well known tuner about organizing some motorcycle specific web casts, about once a month starting in November, to discuss things he's learned about our model bike. After about 30-40 minutes of presentation, he will have an "Ask ----" session for 20 minutes or so to allow us to ask any questions we may have on bike setup, from ergonomics to chassis geometry to damping considerations, and anything else control related.

This is really a great opportunity to have dedicated attention of a true suspension genius, and I am looking forward to post more detail very soon. I'll link it in this thread.
Awesome!

:popcorn: subbed for this.
 
#167 ·
Gents,

Quick question on front fork set up for 3rd generation (08). I recently had my suspension set up (front and rear). When the tech set up the forks he moved it up to the 1st line instead of leaving it at the OEM setting and adjusting from their. He said this would the bike turn in quicker.

For those that have had their suspsension set up. Were your forks raised? Is this common or just a preference by the tech? He had said that the R6 with OEM internals was soft up front. I am not questioning his decision to move it up so much as he is way more qualified than I am, I just want to get others experience.

I won't get a chance to ride in it until the first track day in May. Will that 5mm make that big of a difference in turn in and exit of a corner?

Thanks in advance for any input.
 
#169 ·
Need more info:

Tire size and manufacturer
spring rates if aftermarket or are you on stock suspension?
what style of rider are you? do you brake hard and late and trail brake into corners or brake early and off the brakes turning in?
 
#170 ·
what's braking got to do with it?

A taller bike drops in faster from what i've gathered

Sent from Motorcycle.com App
 
#178 · (Edited)
DanQ,
Thank you sir, for the outstanding write up! I'm fairly new to this forum, but have been riding the R6 since my first bike in 2005. Now I have a track only '08, and after seeing this thread decided to have a go this weekend at setting up my suspension. I had the forks rebuilt last year due to a leaking seal, and hadn't set them up yet. I was able to set the shock to a 28mm static sag, and 6mm free sag. But for the fork, I could not get any closer than 33mm static and 20mm free sag. The only way I could get to 33mm static was to max out the preload to setting 5 on the forks. I weigh 160lbs (180lbs with full gear). I did all the settings with a 3/4 full tank, correct pressure for warm tires, and all my gear on. I didn't think that at my weight I'd have to be anywhere near max preload? Do you think that I need new springs, or perhaps the re-build on the fork somehow messed up? Would rebound or compression settings have an influence on the sag (I have these set close to factory settings)? The fork is stock. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!
Thanks again for the great how to. Hopefully this will revive this thread to make it easier for others to find also!
 
#179 ·
DanQ,
Thank you sir, for the outstanding write up! I'm fairly new to this forum, but have been riding the R6 since my first bike in 2005. Now I have a track only '08, and after seeing this thread decided to have a go this weekend at setting up my suspension. I had the forks rebuilt last year due to a leaking seal, and hadn't set them up yet. I was able to set the shock to a 28mm static sag, and 6mm free sag. But for the fork, I could not get any closer than 33mm static and 20mm free sag. The only way I could get to 33mm static was to max out the preload to setting 5 on the forks. I weigh 160lbs (180lbs with full gear). I did all the settings with a 3/4 full tank, correct pressure for warm tires, and all my gear on. I didn't think that at my weight I'd have to be anywhere near max preload? Do you think that I need new springs, or perhaps the re-build on the fork somehow messed up? Would rebound or compression settings have an influence on the sag (I have these set close to factory settings)? The fork is stock. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!
Thanks again for the great how to. Hopefully this will revive this thread to make it easier for others to find also!
Hi! Welcome to the Forum.

Let me start by saying sag numbers are more of a starting reference than a definitive point. A bike won't be absolutely perfect at 35mm, but a complete death trap at 34mm or 36mm. I like the front end a little deeper in the stroke than 33mm myself (usually more like 38mm on the R6 and R1). I got there by trial on the track with the only variable being front preload.

Spring wise you are essentially between springs. What I mean by that is your bike came from the factory with .90 kg/mm springs in the front. At a weight of 160lbs without gear, a good starting spring would be .927kg/mm, which doesn't exist. The next rate up from .90 kg/mm is typically .95kg/mm, which is over the .927kg/mm by nearly the same amount you are currently under. So realistically you are pretty close on the spring. You could by a set of .95kg/mm springs and use one along with one of you.90kg/mm springs for a .925kg/mm rate, but I wouldn't spend the money on that unless you determined for absolute sure that you need more spring than .90kg/mm. If you can get to 33mm using all available preload, and you don't need to use any more preload, then using all the preload in and of itself is not a problem. It won't mechanically damage anything, you just can't go any further.

Rebound and compression won't interfere with the sag measurements, so I wouldn't worry too much about them with regard to the measurements you've gotten, and it sounds like your method can get repeatable results, which is a very important thing at this stage in the game, since in order to experiment and find what is best for you you will be repeating these steps a time or three.

I hope this offers some help.
 
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