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2008 CBR 600RR Graffiti owner here...looking into possibly trading/owning a 2009 R6

16K views 135 replies 37 participants last post by  M.leeds11R6 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone. This is my first post. I ride a 2008 CBR Graffiti edition and I'm contemplating trading it for a 2009 R6. I just test rode the R6. The ergo's/seat height etc is definitely not half as bad as people make it out to be. I was very comfortable on it. The motor also makes good power everywhere (and isn't a dog like most say down low and midrange) it's just not half as torquey as my RR. The R6's engine spins VERY freely though. I noticed that it spins much more freely than my RR. It "SPOOLS"...and it does it fast. I opened the bike up quite a few times and yes up from 10k-17k rpm she spins and pulls seemlessly. The slipper clutch is nice. I read about people complaining about stalling in 1rst bc or the clutch and lack of torque down low...and while I do agree that the bike just needs a small rev action while letting out the clutch, it is by no means an "issue". I think those people just don't know how to use a clutch What I do notice that I did not like was that low speed cornering was a tad hard...with no steering damper etc you really need to push and pull the handlebars on turns. The front end feels heavy. All in all, the bike felt strong. My RR definitely has more umph from the get go...but the R6 is no slouch. Still really torn between my graffiti and this 09 R6.

Here's the breakdown:
2009 R6 Black/Charcoal. One owner. 6k miles. No mods except for fender eliminator. Needs new front tire and a few blemishes buffed. $6200

My 2008 CBR 600RR can be sold for $7600 (already have buyer standing by)

Both bikes have their perks obviously. I love my graffiti and she is MINT. I've done all maintenance and modifications on her.

I understand the pro's and con's of each bike. The RR is simply an amazing machine. I think maybe I just need to ask myself if I want something different and new eh? Plus, $1400 on top of it is a nice perk (for mods)

Here is my RR. Any help on the decision would be greatly appreciated. I really am interested in learning more about the 08-09 R6's!



 
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#67 · (Edited)
Thanks ya that GYTR shorty carbon fiber can doesn't look too bad:)

Real quick. My rear tire is a sportmax qualifier (ya I know, previous owner :nono) and has 500 miles on it so I'm going to leave it for now. The front NEEDS to be replaced. Should I go with a pilot power, power 2ct, power pure or Dunlop Q2'? And why? I want a grippy soft tire on the street that will last. (Don't we all)
 
#68 ·
Thanks ya that GYTR shorty carbon fiber can doesn't look too bad:)

Real quick. My rear tire is a sportmax qualifier (ya I know, previous owner :nono) and has 500 miles on it so I'm going to leave it for now. The front NEEDS to be replaced. Should I go with a pilot power, power 2ct, power pure or Dunlop Q2'? And why? I want a grippy soft tire on the street that will last. (Don't we all)
:yes...
http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=155541


I will just say that the stock tire suck donkey balls; change them ASAP if you have the means. I got soo much more confidence once I switched to aftermarket stuff (Q2).

Ideally, you want to match both front and rear...Strange how the front went out before the rear, but I'd try to get the same tire (it's a profile issue from what I understand). All I know is Q2's I'm going to be trying out a set of Pirelli soon...Others more in the know will have to give that input..
 
#69 · (Edited)
The EXUP valve will cause extreme back pressure because it stops all exhaust flow even all the way at the end of the exhaust. Just like sticking a potato in the tail pipe of your car. Easy fix to exup failure is just through it and the muffler away! I did it to my 07 R-6 and have not looked back. I went down to the local auto parts store and spent $7.00 on a small piece of exhaust pipe to direct the exhaust away from my feet and it works awesome. I have picked up a pony or 2 and have save at least $200.00 to $600.00. The exhaust volume went up less than a desible as long as the cat is still in stalled. Slip ons are not needed for this bike and are a waste of money. Buy a full kit or just get rid of the stock muffler.

The front end will feel a little heavy due to the lean forward of the engine to prevent wheelies at the track. A good quality front tire and some upper body strength is all you need.

I have not riden a CBR or an 09 R-6. But I love my 07 and will not give it up even after it got smashed by a suburban November of 2012.

Change the sprockets, get an exhaust, power commander and an air filter and you should be very happy. Ride that bitch like you stole it and it will keep you happy. I ride the canyon at no lower than 8,000 rpms and it screams for more! Also the quality of gas you use makes a work of difference. I love in San Diego County and I have over 35,000 mile on my bike. Bought it March of 08 with 0 miles, November 3rd of 12 it had over 35,000 miles and it was still running strong. under 6,000 rpm it is week but go up 2 teeth in the back or down 1 in the front and you will more than fix that.

But stop the debate and buy the new toy! R is for RESPECT!

Mine is blue with the purple tint. The Black with gold you are looking at is a sick ass color! Get it before some one else does!

RIDE SAFE AND KEEP THE STICKY SIDE DOWN!!
 
#70 ·
Mac7504- Ya I hear ya about keeping the same profiled tires. Since the bike has 6500 miles on it, the front is the OEM and the previous owner swapped the back 500 miles ago for a sportmax qualifier :( Now I have always run pilot powers or pilot pures. I want to run either one of those on both front and back but can't justify getting rid of the back right now as it's virtually new! I just want ot know what my option are. Bc if I'm stuck now putting a sportmaz qualifier on the front bc of the back then I guess that's what I'll have to do. Ideally though, I'd rather put a power or pure on the front and then when the back goes out, match it up.

Ralfferly- Thanks man. But I obviously already bought the bike :eek5 :popcorn:
 
#72 ·
LOL. Maybe he crashed it this morning and then hopped on r6-forum.com :eek:oh

Any feedback on my tire question on the bottom of page 7 would be great!

So here are my overall impressions so far:

09 R6 vs 08 RR
1. The seat height is 33.5". That's 1.2" higher than the CBR (07+). The ergo's are definitely more "in" the bike but by no means "uncomfortable". I flat foot it all day and I'm 5"11. Ergo's, not an issue.

2. I've adjusted the clutch lever all the way out and this helped with 1st gear take off. She idles at 1,400rpm and NEEDS a rev'ing to get going. I am getting a tune that raises my idle to 1,900rpm which should help. With no low end power, this bike needs to be spooled, yes even a tad from idle to clutch disengaged 1rst gear. Think about it, an idle of 1,400rpm on a bike that makes no power down low is like idling at 200 rpm on the RR. Needless to say, a little rev action on take off is necessary. I can see why people stall these bikes (I haven't stalled it once, bc I did quite a bit of research/reading before buying)

3. OMG does riding this bike make you realize how much torque and low rpm response the RR has. In saying this though, the R6 engine rev's WAY faster than the RR's. It's almost like it WANTS to be spooled. With that being said, it really doesn't matter that the R6 has less torque/responsiveness feel down low bc simply manipulating the throttle will put you in the sweet spot in a second. Just gotta know how to work with what you've got

4. The spooling, zipping and whistling sound of the R6 motor and intake is simply gorgeous. Sounds like a frickin whipple cobra. Ok not that cool but you get the idea. Can't be happier about this. I will say though, the valve-train and upper engine chatter on the R6 is more prominent than the RR's. But then again, the RR was as smooth as butter and made little to no chatter whatsoever.

5. I noticed that the R6 takes longer to warm up but once warmed (thermo open) it runs a tiny bit warmer. Not an issue as crusing speeds are still at 168-172. Fan comes on @~210 on the R6 rather than 220 on the RR. Also, the engine gives off quite a bit of heat which is def. felt on your thighs.

6. I need to bleed my brakes so no comparison yet on brake feel. Initial bite feels somewhat numb though.

7. Slipper clutch is great.

8. Shift light is great lol...but by the time you see it you're hauling ass so it's basically a light saying "remember to shift, you're reaching warp speed"

The only gripe I have so far is front end feel. It feels very "heavy". WORLDS apart from the RR. Turning is sometimes rather tricky and not confidence inspiring. My front tire is also bald though (being replaced tomorrow) so I am hoping that after I get a fresh tire on there she will handle differently.
 
#73 ·
Bald front will completely wreck front end feel and turn in speed. A new front should fix that. But note that there is still even more of an improvement when switching off qualifiers to a decent tire (pp, q2, 003, sc). You won't be able to make a fair comparison until you have matching front and rear tires that are not qualifiers
 
#75 · (Edited)
Thanks ya I'm just going to ditch the rear and get a pair of regular ole pilot powers. STG has them shipped for $203.

I'm super anal about my tire psi. I'm running 34F/38R for street.

Random question, what are some good semi-inexpensive rear turn signals? The ones that integrate into the tail.
 
#80 ·
Typically, you suppose to run higher PSI in the front....Also, for the street just keep them up at recommended PSI or you will get excess wear and or cupping.

Just do 38f-35-37r on the street and drop it down if doing canyons...

Many get confused with regards to PSI on track and street so don't be dropping it down to the 20's or any of that......fyi.
 
#78 ·
Whoa that's awesome! And only $66.95 with direct plug and play, included sub-harness (OEM connectors for 100% bolt-on with zero modifications)

Thanks guys looks like a simple plug and play swap for the OEM tailight!
 
#81 ·
My bike had no turn in, bad front, slapped on a Pirelli Diablo Rosso II and now it is super easy to turn and do fast. Now it only wants to be sideways. Integrated tail lights are pretty cool, one of the first mods I did. Also, you definately need to check/bleed your brakes. I only have about 1.5 inches of pull before Im locked or doing a stopy, and initial bite is the complete opposite of numb, it is fierce.
 
#82 · (Edited)
mac7504- First you stated to do the recommended PSI on the street (which is 36f/42r) and then you state to do 38f-35-37r? 38psi front is OVER the recommended psi for the tire! And ya I would never drop them in the 20's as I'm not stunting nor doing wheelies:) Lowest I'd go on a Arizona summer day would be 32/32. I find that 34f/36r works well for street riding most the time.

07R6JC- Thanks ya I have a feeling that bald sportmax front is what's eff'ing my whole front end feel up. Slapping Pilot Powers, front and rear, on there today :flex: As for the brakes, I was just going to bleed them. Anything else I should look at?

And btw, I noticed that when I shut the bike down, each time I hear this little "poof" or "gargle" of air coming from the intake. What is this? Also, is the valve-train supposed to chatter as loud as it does? Seems like the whole upper engine makes much more chatter than I'm used to, esp. when cold (which is fine, I just want to know that it's normal for these bikes) My RR was SO QUIET. No cam chain, valve-train or chatter what-so-ever.

I ordered the motodynamic tail-light:jacked
 
#83 ·
mac7504- First you stated to do the recommended PSI on the street (which is 36f/42r) and then you state to do 38f-35-37r? 38psi front is OVER the recommended psi for the tire! And ya I would never drop them in the 20's as I'm not stunting nor doing wheelies:) Lowest I'd go on a Arizona summer day would be 32/32. I find that 34f/36r works well for street riding most the time.

07R6JC- Thanks ya I have a feeling that bald sportmax front is what's eff'ing my whole front end feel up. Slapping Pilot Powers, front and rear, on there today :flex: As for the brakes, I was just going to bleed them. Anything else I should look at?

And btw, I noticed that when I shut the bike down, each time I hear this little "poof" or "gargle" of air coming from the intake. What is this? Also, is the valve-train supposed to chatter as loud as it does? Seems like the whole upper engine makes much more chatter than I'm used to, esp. when cold (which is fine, I just want to know that it's normal for these bikes) My RR was SO QUIET. No cam chain, valve-train or chatter what-so-ever.

I ordered the motodynamic tail-light:jacked

Hope you got the smoked taillight, it looks great!
 
#86 ·
Ok thanks ya I figured the valve-train was just noisey:popcorn:
Anybody have any tips or good write-ups on how to take the fairings off and do an oil change? I know how to, just for the best way to do it! Never had to mess with a bike's linage to simply change the oil :eek5:rolleyes:


 
#87 ·
Pull the left side middle and lower fairings. The drain bolt is obvious when you look under for it. You can pour and check and drain with the right side fairings on.
 
#89 ·
That's a sweet looking CBR. I've never ridden one, but I would not trade my
R6 for any other 600cc Jap bike. I love the the way she screams and picks up speed at high RPMs. Love the way it corners through turns, it likes to be ridden hard.
 
#91 ·
The part that connects to a gear at the top has a 10mm bolt. Take that bolt out, slide the ring off the gear, and put it somewhere like your peg or something. When your done Just slip it back on, but dont force it. It will slide on. Then mount the bike and feel the position if you dont like it, slide it back off, and adjust it. I usually adjust it twice before its in the same spot it was before.
 
#92 ·
I would suggest installing a Stahlbus oil drain valve when you change your oil. Itll keep you from stripping the threads in the oil pan and makes oil changes less messy.. no oil on the headers.. I got mine from Justin at AggRacing.com. He's another one of our awesome forum vendors
 
#94 ·
Ya about you getting the R-6. I read the first few pages then jumped to the end. Good choice you will not be unhappy. I love mine.

Working on getting it back on the road after getting hit by a suburban a year ago today. Need a wiring harness, head light then I am getting fiberglass racing panels. Then going up 2 teeth in the back and a power commander for now.

Have fun! Keep the stick side down!
 
#95 ·
Great thread. I'm Canadian and up here finding a mint CBR 600rr graffiti is almost impossible. That was my first choice. I ended up getting the same bike as you, 2009 R6 raven w/gold rims. It's my first 600 and I absolutely love the thing. I'd like more info. on what you think about the R6 as compared to the 600rr.
 
#97 · (Edited)
I did the following this weekend:

-Changed the oil to Amsoil 10W40 and K&N filter
-Hotbodies flushmounts
-New Pilot Power front and rear
-Complete suspension setup (with me on bike) preload-sag-damping
-Chain adjustment and lube

Got this integrated LED pulsing tail light on order, should do the install tomorrow. I couldn't be happier with this bike. Gotta love riding year-round here in Arizona. Was in the 80's today and it's November.






 
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