Do you use them? Which brand do you prefer/recommend?
I'm definitely looking to get one this winter for next season, but there are a lot of options. I have a 06 R6 with PCV/AT... but want to know if anyone likes/dislikes the Power Commander add-on or if they prefer/use another brand. I prefer an all-in-one package in stead of having to buy the sensor, shift arm and QS expansion separately.
i think the bazzaz setup is about the smoothest from what i've read. if i could redo it all, i'd get the annitori rl and an ecu reflash with a PIMP map.
Bazzaz is great with the individual gear kill times. However you're almost balls deep with Power Commander, so it may be cheaper to stick with them. Both are very good regardless.
You'll have to get the Ignition Module going the PC route. Yes you'll see threads where it works without it. But the reasoning is simple, most 600s these days fire on 8 injectors, the PC controls 4. So if you don't use the Ign Mod, when the QS initiates your engine is still combusting with half fuel resulting in jerky or not efficient shifts.
With the Ign Mod, you're cutting spark entirely resulting in a more efficient and smoother shift that's also better for your engine components in the long run.
I use PC on my personal bike, and have used Bazzaz on the shop bikes. I like both and have no problems with my PC setup.
Also, if you're anywhere near a college campus, talk to someone in the engineering school with access to the in-house machine shop to cut down your stock shift rod. The ones that come with the PC or Bazzaz setup are meh.
"The QEM allows the Dynojet Quick Shifter sensor to be used with the Power Commander V on bikes that have 8 INJECTORS. The QEM connects to the upper injectors and then into the PCV. "
Heard the Annitori was a very smooth unit and you don't need another or new module (like you do with Bazzaz); still debating what route I will be going but I believe Annitori because I don't want to have to re-do my Bazzaz.
My buddy has a Dynojet one on his 636 track bike and it started wigging out, randomly cutting out power when he'd go over bumps and stuff. Ran into another guy having similar issues at my last track day.
Apparently the spring on it wears out and this starts happening. Dunno how frequently it happens, or how much parts to fix it are, but found it interesting that I've run into at least 2 people who've encountered the problem.
Hey guys, does the quickshifter have an effect on gearbox wear? I'd guess that it has a positive effect because during every shift rpm decreases by the same amount so the shift is smooth, with little force on the shift lever.
What is the truth?
I have a stock ECU with PCV.... but I like the features of the Annitori and HM. Electronics are hit or miss, sometimes you'll get a unit that works for decades but someone else will get one that lasts 2 weeks, but a replacement will be the 'decades' worker.
So I might be going with Annitori... but will the kill time adjustment through the Annitori device be sufficient enough? It may need a little more reading into from myself, but seems like it's that or HM.
Out of the box, the 60 ms settting is pretty much perfect. The only thing I changed on my HM plus was the sensitivity. I had to make it less sensitive/reduce it for the smooth operating Rizoma rearsets.
The shift rods are like $15 and they are REAL nice!!! I forget if it's the shift rods or the shift sensor itself, but they are somehow threaded with both reverse and regular threads in the same hole!! :eek5
I disagree. The unit is really small. When i worked at bazzaz i was able to compare the systems. When i asked Amar (owner) about the bazzaz QS he said its nice to be able to pinpoint the kill times to exactly what you want. If i remember correctly he said the most comparable system to the Bazzaz was the annatori. Both are great systems.
But looking at the website, FYI, you'll also need a new shift rod and a 8mm-6mm conversion rod. At least that's what the checkout on the main site says. I'm going to see what my local seller has/can do the ordering grunt work for me since he's a dealer
Another question: I flipped the shift link so I'm using GP Shift on a stock-style setup (Vortex, uses the bracket under the frame, separate from the rearsets).
Edit: Retailer says it works with Push or Pull, doesn't matter the direction of the shift.
You set it for COMPRESSION or EXTENSION IIRC. So the push vs pull wording and complexity is avoided. It's a pretty dope sensor with no moving parts and some kind of material in it that changes composure under pressure. The HM plus is on a LOT of real high end superbikes I've seen. It's definitely a solid unit.
Like you said though, the replacement has been awesome, the two replacements to my other customer have been working great now too. But when mine did malfunction and randomly cut ignition it was VERY tough to troubleshoot. Everything from water in the gas was considered. The 85+ MPH run off I had when it decided to cut out mid turn SUCKED.. Especially since it was my first crash, but it is what it is man. Like the tires we run, we need to put our trust in these parts and make for the worst and hope for the best!
i don't know of the other brands, so maybe something out there is better.. but Dynojet quick shifters are very good. I have been racing with them for 9 years. In 9 years only had 1 fail, and my current 08 bikes i have raced 4 seasons now. no issues. My superbike has a flashed box with PCIII so i can only set 1 kill time for all gears. My ss bike has a YEC box so i can set different kill times for each gear. I start off with around 80ms for 1st to second, then down to 55 or so for the 5th to 6th shift. Varies on the course too.. more sweeping corner ya may wan't a little more kill time if you are shifting leaned over..
A word on the bouncing around.. yea, if your shift lever is jiggly, it's gonna move the sensor and make the ecu belive it's supposed to kill time. Same goes if your foot is hitting the shift rod. One thing that occurs as well will depend on your rear sets. The Graves rear sets are AWESOME. all i will use. But if you allow the peg bolt to loosen, the footpeg can rotate forward and move the shift lever just enough as you move around to make the motor hickup.. so just look over your bolts from time to time
Thanks for the info on the vibrations.... I use Vortex and have the stock style shift lever (under the frame). But I basically "pre-load" the shfit lever before I push it down all the way.... you know, that half push until you feel pressure. So I wouldn't want something like that or jiggling to affect the QS.
stop doing the "pre-load" thing, especially once you get a quick shifter.. IF you do that with a quick shifter, your motor is gonna cut out non-stop. Just hold the throttle wide open, once you are at the desired rpm, just bang the shift! easy. No preload needed. and as i stated, if you keep doing that, your gonna just create problems. The quick shifter kills the ignition for a few milliseconds that allows a FULL THROTTLE CLUTCHLESS (caps for emphasis ) upshifts.
I disagree. The unit is really small. When i worked at bazzaz i was able to compare the systems. When i asked Amar (owner) about the bazzaz QS he said its nice to be able to pinpoint the kill times to exactly what you want. If i remember correctly he said the most comparable system to the Bazzaz was the annatori. Both are great systems.
But looking at the website, FYI, you'll also need a new shift rod and a 8mm-6mm conversion rod. At least that's what the checkout on the main site says. I'm going to see what my local seller has/can do the ordering grunt work for me since he's a dealer
Another question: I flipped the shift link so I'm using GP Shift on a stock-style setup (Vortex, uses the bracket under the frame, separate from the rearsets).
Edit: Retailer says it works with Push or Pull, doesn't matter the direction of the shift.
But looking at the website, FYI, you'll also need a new shift rod and a 8mm-6mm conversion rod. At least that's what the checkout on the main site says. I'm going to see what my local seller has/can do the ordering grunt work for me since he's a dealer
Another question: I flipped the shift link so I'm using GP Shift on a stock-style setup (Vortex, uses the bracket under the frame, separate from the rearsets).
Will this also work for Push/GP Shift setup like this?
The "8mm-6mm" is because for some "strange" reason Yamaha has given the R6 an 8mm at one end and 6mm at the other. The R1 does not use this, in fact no other bike we know of uses this 8mm/6mm setup. Everybody seems to agree on 6mm linkage; except Yamaha on this bike...
So the question is, do you have stock footrests or aftermarket rearsets? If stock, then you need the conversion rod. If aftermarket rearsets, every one we know of swaps back to a full 6mm setup, so you will not need this part.
The RL will work with either standard or GP shift, so you are all OK there. If you want to send some photo's of your setup to info@annitori.com, we will be happy to sort this with you so your dealer can get the order correct for you.
Ohhh you had that one set up real nice. Those are some smooth shifts. Nicely done!
I think I'm going to go with Annitori, which also comes with low-med-high sensitivity settings... I know two other people with the same unit (diff bikes) and haven't had any issues.
Chief, do you use 60ms for each gear? Or is it just one overall setting for each gear...
Just because I'm outiftted with PCV doesn't sell me on getting the same make QS for it, I don't mind paying a little more for something better.
Bazzaz stand alone quick shifter cuts ignition. I have the standard ZFI and then added the quick shifter later. The quick shifter plugs into the ignition coils and works very well.
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