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2008 CBR 600RR Graffiti owner here...looking into possibly trading/owning a 2009 R6

16K views 135 replies 37 participants last post by  M.leeds11R6 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone. This is my first post. I ride a 2008 CBR Graffiti edition and I'm contemplating trading it for a 2009 R6. I just test rode the R6. The ergo's/seat height etc is definitely not half as bad as people make it out to be. I was very comfortable on it. The motor also makes good power everywhere (and isn't a dog like most say down low and midrange) it's just not half as torquey as my RR. The R6's engine spins VERY freely though. I noticed that it spins much more freely than my RR. It "SPOOLS"...and it does it fast. I opened the bike up quite a few times and yes up from 10k-17k rpm she spins and pulls seemlessly. The slipper clutch is nice. I read about people complaining about stalling in 1rst bc or the clutch and lack of torque down low...and while I do agree that the bike just needs a small rev action while letting out the clutch, it is by no means an "issue". I think those people just don't know how to use a clutch What I do notice that I did not like was that low speed cornering was a tad hard...with no steering damper etc you really need to push and pull the handlebars on turns. The front end feels heavy. All in all, the bike felt strong. My RR definitely has more umph from the get go...but the R6 is no slouch. Still really torn between my graffiti and this 09 R6.

Here's the breakdown:
2009 R6 Black/Charcoal. One owner. 6k miles. No mods except for fender eliminator. Needs new front tire and a few blemishes buffed. $6200

My 2008 CBR 600RR can be sold for $7600 (already have buyer standing by)

Both bikes have their perks obviously. I love my graffiti and she is MINT. I've done all maintenance and modifications on her.

I understand the pro's and con's of each bike. The RR is simply an amazing machine. I think maybe I just need to ask myself if I want something different and new eh? Plus, $1400 on top of it is a nice perk (for mods)

Here is my RR. Any help on the decision would be greatly appreciated. I really am interested in learning more about the 08-09 R6's!



 
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#98 ·
I've owned both a 2007 cbr 600 rr and a 2008 r6. I've tracked both bikes.

My impressions is that the cbr is easier to ride. The engine on the cbr is fantastic, with a very smooth power band and delivery. The bike is a little bit smaller than the r6 and has a better turn in. As far as ergonomics go, I was a little bit cramped on the cbr, even with adjustable rearsets. I am about 6'1 180 lbs.

The r6 is a bike when ridden fast, feels amazing. Once you get the r6 in the sweet spot, it really cuts through turns like butter. I really feels planted mid corner with a lot of front tire feel and input. I also really liked the top end on the r6. I felt it had really good drive out of corners, which allowed me to slingshot past a lot of riders. I also had lower gearing too, which I feel helps make up the lack of midrange.

Either way, you really can't go wrong with either bikes. They are both very competitive and fun bikes to ride.
 
#101 · (Edited)
Hey everyone I've got a few questions:

1. Upon cold start, the bike takes almost 4 full seconds to fire up. My battery is brand new and not the issue. When it does turn over, it idles ~1,500. Every bike I've ever owned has fired right up cold and strong and cold idled/auto-choked to up around 2,000 rpm before it crept back down slowly to normal operating temp idle. It's almost like this bike has no cold idle choke? I've read on this forum of people having this same issue. I read there was an issue with the 06 and some early 07's in which the plane bearing for the crank had too MUCH clearance, and when the bike idles, makes very low oil pressure. Is it true that in the 08 revision, Yamaha made slightly wider crank journals to alleviate this low oil psi issue at idle? I'm just worried about this low oil pressure issue coupled with an already low idle.

2. It fires up normally and right away after it's been warmed. Huge difference in time between cold start.

3. What is the correct OEM idle for these bikes? It seems way too low (mine seems to hover around 1300-1200 rpm. It's bouncy as well sometimes. I hate having to rev/throttle it every time I want top take off from a stop in first. My 08 CBR RR would idle pinned at 1,500 and you simply had to ease out the clutch and she'd start rolling. Definitely not the case with this R6. If I did that, it would simply stall.

4. What temp does the thermo start opening? What temp is the thermo completely open?

5. I'm planning on sending my ECU to OhioYJ to be reflashed. I'd like to have the throttle unlocked (taking off the EPA restrictions that close the TB's at high RPM) so basically flashing the ECU back to an 08's. I also think it's a good idea to have him raise my idle to 1,900rpm. My idea is that not only will this provide better idle engine oil pressure/flow, it will also help in first gear take off. I won't need to rev/throttle her so much to take off.

6. When cold, this motor makes a TON of chatter and valve/lifters/clicking/tapping noises. Is this normal? Sorry, I'm used to my CBR RR that was super quiet and smooth regardless of temp and rpm. I remember my old F4i's cam chain tensioner, now that was annoying...like a can filled with BB's. But this R6 is pretty damn chatter-y
 
#102 ·
the cold start issue and idle sound normal to me. both R6s that ive owned did the same. i have a ecu re flash and that helped resolve some of the smaller issues you just addressed. my idle is around 1900 - 2000 and i have no complaints there. the noise on cold start up, i think mine makes a bit more noise then warm as well. hopefully others will chime in as to that as well.
 
#103 ·
I got my ECU flashed and the cold start up is 22-2300 and then it backs off to 2000 within a few seconds. Once warm it is 12-1400. Pretty much same as stock once warm.
 
#104 ·
Ah I see. I'm hoping that after OhioYJ re-flashes my ECU that the idle will stick around 1,900-2,000 rpm regardless of temp.....Anybody else find it odd that the stock ECU cold idles as well as warm idles as low as 1,400-1,200? This seems super low to me. Especially on a bike that's characteristically down on power low end. No wonder pre-08 motors had oil supply/pump/low pressure issues at idle. Motor is barley turning! :throwup
 
#106 · (Edited)
Not sure, The PO didn't give me the manual. And 2k doesn't seem high, many people are running flashed ECU's with a 2k rpm idle and they love it! Easier to take off out of first and get going without having to rev. Theoretically, one would also think that the oil pressure would be higher and better at a higher idle as well...where are the Guru's at to chime in!??? OhioYJ??
 
#109 · (Edited)
So I installed my my motodynamic Sequential LED Tail Light in Smoke seen here:
http://www.motodynamic.com/product_...ucts_id=189&osCsid=pcp7bhn97nbre05b01ebgqoif5

The brake light works great but I was unable to connect the turn signal connections/wires. When I bought my bike, it had a fender eliminator on it and no turn signals. I am unsure what the PO did to the wiring/connectors. The 2 quick connectors on the sub harness of the motodynamic tail light for the turn signals do not match the type of connector (actually lack there of, see pics below, the 2 wires with metal connectors on the ends) on the bikes harness.


If you click on "VIEW INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS HERE", on the motodynamic link above, it is the connectors on the 3rd photo down from the top. It's the gray connector that I don't have on the bikes harness.

These are the directions that I'm stuck on: "Connect the longer end of the sub harness; Blue/Black wire to the gray connector and Yellow/Black to the black connector". Here's a photo of the harness/wires I assume are the turn signal wires that I need to plug into the motodynamic sub harness (white connectors). I'm assuming the turn signal connectors on the bikes harness were taken off by the PO. If these are the correct wires, what do I need to buy (connector-wise) to connect to the sub harness connectors?


 
#110 ·
Do the green and brown wires each have a black wire with them? If so, you can cut off the connectors the PO put on, cut the connectors off the tail light, then connect the wires directly.

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#111 ·
Thanks Glock- Ya you're right about hard wiring them. Harry over at Motodynamic confirmed the same thing. Looks like the PO put some bullet connectors on there. Gonna cut all the wires and hard wire it up! I have hotbodies flushies in the front so if I'm not happy with the integrated turn light rate, I may just get some resistors at radio shack. I'll post up the finished product!:)
 
#112 ·
I bought a flasher relay from somewhere online cause I have LED signals in front.. It replaces the stock relay located under the ECU.. That made my Motodynamic IT blink at the proper rate
 
#113 · (Edited)
Ya Glock I saw that relay! I'm doing the hardwiring tonight and I'll see if I can live with the rapid turn flash when I'm done. If not, it may just be easier to order that plug n play relay rather than dig into my flushmount signal wiring again for the resistors.

Any answers/feedback on my questions below? Thanks!:eek::popcorn:

1. Upon cold start, the bike takes almost 4 full seconds to fire up. My battery is brand new and not the issue. When it does turn over, it idles ~1,500. Every bike I've ever owned has fired right up cold and strong and cold idled/auto-choked to up around 2,000 rpm before it crept back down slowly to normal operating temp idle. It's almost like this bike has no cold idle choke? I've read on this forum of people having this same issue. I read there was an issue with the 06 and some early 07's in which the plane bearing for the crank had too MUCH clearance, and when the bike idles, makes very low oil pressure. Is it true that in the 08 revision, Yamaha made slightly wider crank journals to alleviate this low oil psi issue at idle? I'm just worried about this low oil pressure issue coupled with an already low idle.

2. It fires up normally and right away after it's been warmed. Huge difference in time between cold start.

3. What is the correct OEM idle for these bikes? It seems way too low (mine seems to hover around 1300-1200 rpm. It's bouncy as well sometimes. I hate having to rev/throttle it every time I want top take off from a stop in first. My 08 CBR RR would idle pinned at 1,500 and you simply had to ease out the clutch and she'd start rolling. Definitely not the case with this R6. If I did that, it would simply stall.

4. What temp does the thermo start opening? What temp is the thermo completely open?

5. I'm planning on sending my ECU to OhioYJ to be reflashed. I'd like to have the throttle unlocked (taking off the EPA restrictions that close the TB's at high RPM) so basically flashing the ECU back to an 08's. I also think it's a good idea to have him raise my idle to 1,900rpm. My idea is that not only will this provide better idle engine oil pressure/flow, it will also help in first gear take off. I won't need to rev/throttle her so much to take off.

6. When cold, this motor makes a TON of chatter and valve/lifters/clicking/tapping noises. Is this normal? Sorry, I'm used to my CBR RR that was super quiet and smooth regardless of temp and rpm. I remember my old F4i's cam chain tensioner, now that was annoying...like a can filled with BB's. But this R6 is pretty damn chatter-y
 
#114 ·
I'm assuming you ended up getting it? You'll be happy.
I had an 07 cbr 600rr for a whilea few years back. It was a good bike, but the r6 is definitely a better, more aggressive feel for what I use it for. Then again, I do use it for the track only.
Hope you're liking it!
 
#115 · (Edited)
Yes I agree the 07+ RR's were amazing machines. I commute on my bike so most people think I'm crazy for giving up my 08RR for an 09R6. I must say, the RR is just a beast in torque straight from idle. It's powerband is very linear. The R6 is no slouch, it's just that you don't see or feel the bikes potential until ~10k rpm...then you quickly realize why you bought it:flex:

One thing I am really not a fan of with the R6 is how the motor must be revv'ed to get out of first gear while releasing the clutch....the friction/clutch zone is very small and this motor does NOT like anything under 3k rpm in 1rst gear...boggs so hard. Just a little annoying when in parking lots or stop n go etc....with my RR you simply had to let out the clutch and the bike would roll and be ready to go. The R6 needs a little throttle. Another annoyance with the R6 is how WEAK it starts on cold startup. It turns over 6 times then starts up chugging to 1500 rpm. My RR would fire right up (1 crank) and cold choke to 2000+ rpm...just felt strong. This R6 seems to barley want to get out of bed in the morning and when she does, she doesn't seem to want/or have a cold choke function
 
#116 ·
Mine takes a couple of seconds to start, but nbd.. I'm not a morning person either.. as for the clutch, I learned how to ride on this bike so its fine with me. While learning I actually didn't touch the throttle until the clutch was all the way out.

Did you get that tail light wired up?

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#117 ·
Yep the tail light is all wired up thanks! Got a relay in there and she's functioning perfect. Wish I knew how to post a video. Any help? Any free site that I can upload video's to that's user friendly? I'm only used to posting pics from photobucket:eek5
 
#120 · (Edited)
Here's a video of my old 2008 CBR600 RR:


And the new 2009 R6:



I'll post up a video soon of the Motodynamic Integrated Sequential LED tail-light functioning!
 
#121 ·
in for how you feel after the flash, im getting mine flashed too sometime soon,

are you going to change up the exhaust?
 
#122 ·
To be honest, I think I am sticking with the stock exhaust for this bike. :yes My Leo Vince on my RR got annoying after a while and that was with the baffle IN! I really have come to appreciate quieter exhausts and with this R6, I just LOVE hearing the motor "zip" and whine. I think hearing a motor whine passing you is way sexier and meaner than a loud exhaust.

As for the tune with OhioYJ...I think I'll just have him take off the EPA restriction (throttle lock) that the 09's had in the ECU as well as have him raise my idle to 1900. That's about it! Unless someone else can school me on other settings I should have him change for a stock motor. I thought about timing advance as well as increased engine braking but I'm not sure if that's safe/good for me?
 
#123 ·
No way dude, stock exhaust is ugly IMO. At least powdercoat it black. And maybe cut it down a little. If I remember correctly, MJS has some stock cans that are black and cut down if you wanna check em out

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#124 · (Edited)
#125 · (Edited)
Made it to San Fran for the weekend, Bears - Niners game this Monday. Pics taken today in the Bay area. 2012 Street Triple R. Put 50 miles on her over the bridge and all over the town. The bikes my older brother's. Werkes pipe is loud.



 
#127 ·
Unfortunately I'm a Bear's fan:( I was born and raised on the north side of Chicago. Brutal game this past Monday. Campbell is embarrassing...don't know how the guy has a job. On another note, San Fran is a great city! Loved tearing up those crazy city roads on that torquey triple :flex:
 
#129 ·
When I bought the bike it had the Fender Eliminator on it already. I asked the PO what brand it was and he didn't know. So I have no idea what brand I have (anyone know? Pics previous pages). The Tail light will light it up a tad as the plate is so close, but I'd say depending on where you live, the FiveO may give ya chit:secret:)
 
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