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99-02 guys, post your carb settings/mods/elevation

109K views 333 replies 54 participants last post by  1genr6 
#1 ·
So I'm still having some issues with the jetting on my bike, and was wondering what everyone else is running. It's driving me nuts...

My mods/settings:

Yosh TRS slip-on
Ivan's jet kit
OEM & K&N air filters

Going from memory, but I think my needle clips are on the second notch, and my mixture screws are 2.75 turns out. Carbs have been synched, and I haven't checked my float levels.

Elevation is pretty close to sea level (Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada).


My issue is around 8000-9000 RPM, the bike feels like one or two cylinders miss temporarily. Power is reduced, and she sputters until she turns up a bit higher. I've tried running the mixture screws out to 3.25 turns out, and I've tried swapping my K&N filter for an OEM, and neither seems to fix the issue. If anything it currently runs better with the K&N, but not by a lot. It runs pretty well everywhere else in the RPM range, but 8-9K is a horrible spot to have a power loss.

Suggestions? Needles? Check the floats? Change the mixture? I haven't pulled the plugs recently, should I do so?

Cheers!
 
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#222 ·
I was having problems with the low speed and idle in excess I would fix one problem only to ecounter another and turning out the pilot screw 4 x brought me the best low and idle but syncn' carbs and adjusting needle pos would not fix, I read a comment chief said about if ya want rock solid idle go with #40 pilot jets so I figured he must know and wow once i did that everything else came together, I know you should work out main jet first and i would reccomend doing so. In retrospect the pilots made the biggest differance as to how the bike runs for me, made everything so smooth and made the adjustments applied afterwards more noticeable for me that it is, air fuel and needle clip changes I could see good or bad which way to go easier if that is possible just the way it appeared to me, understand I was also learning along the way too so my understanding of the process also improved. (I hope) I dont see a reason to replace the covers for the A/F screws either, just a good cleaning of the passageways with some carb cleaner ect. and adjustment. shush319 is wise and helpfull also I think you may be confused as to pilot jet and A/F but I could be wrong I dont want to make assumptions sorry
 
#224 ·
Impossible!
 
#226 · (Edited)
No but they can if there is that much junk in the system, a thrurough cleaning is allways best. I used 3 or 4 cans of carb cleaner and seafoam just to be sure. (And a bright flashlight)
and No you cannot remove anything effectively with carbs on the bike!! Take your time do it right or dont do it at all!! i cant stress that enough. Dont waste your time doing a half ass job because when its not running right you'll know why....
 
#228 ·
I used the carb cleaner in every passage unscrewed all the parts that were related pilots mains and emulsion tubes soaked in seafoam and sprayed the carb cleaner in the air jets and all passageways and checked with flashlight b4 reassemble just to be sure. Also taking time to be sure the small holes on pilots sides and emulsion tubes were all clear and clean. Also I took apart my fuel petcock and cleaned, found an abundance of muck in there for some reason, may have been just my bike but worth mentioning considering all that I found in that thing!!
 
#230 ·
Your probably right, so make sure that stuff is all clean, take your time, makes all the differance in the world as to how it will run. also that way you can hopefully rule that out as a problem later, it will pay off if you do it right, took me a couple of trys but once I got comfortable with taking em off and putting em on it was a breeze. I can take em off adjust and put em back on in 45 min now (thats tank airbox and cables hoses and accessories) so not too bad, considering it took me 3or4 hours just to get carbs off b4 lol
 
#232 ·
Here's what I've got: 02 r6
OEM air filter
FactoryPro spec custom V stax
Two Bros slip on (chopped)
Dyno Jet stage 1 kit, I think... (needles have 6 slots)
Clips on 3rd slot. 2 washers on top
Mains jets: 142's on 1 and 2
140's on 2 and 3
Pilots are 35's (WTF? Non Cali model???)
Mix screws are 2.75 turns out
200ft above sea level

I just cleaned carbs and it runs good and smooth through the whole RPM range with these new settings. Put a new set of plugs in too. I want to get some #40 pilots if it will make it run even better but I have no complaints as of now.
I have this adjustable timing advancer I want to install but need a second opinion on the way it should be set. I think I need to turn the outside piece clockwise to get the advance 3 degrees. The way it's set in the pic I believe to be advanced. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks
 

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#234 ·
If I had to guess, the big line in the middle is stock and you can go either +2 or -2 with the marks. I got lucky and scored a +4 Factory Pro awhile ago and what a difference that thing made. Best $50 bolt on I've bought for this thing.
 
#233 ·
advancer won't do you any good, you should probably just sell it to me..

How is your idle? I still have a bouncy idle on mine and can't figure it out.
 
#235 ·
advancer won't do you any good, you should probably just sell it to me..<br />
<br />
How is your idle? I still have a bouncy idle on mine and can't figure it out.

Yea it's not for sale and it idles smooth. But when I rev it and let go it hangs around 3k for a couple of seconds before slowly dropping to idle..


Back on my advancer, there's only 2 marks for advance or retard but it will slide over to where a 3rd mark should be. Are the marks to the left of the big "stock" mark for advance or retard?
 
#236 · (Edited)
I have no idea which way is advance. I have to change my timing cover with a Woodcraft one some time this week. If I can find my factory advancer, I'll hold it up to the FP one and I can tell from there which way is advance. Hopefully I can find the old one.

Hanging up on the idle means it is lean, try 3-3.5 turns out on the screws.

DJ is the only jet kit with jets that small and 6 clip positions. I've heard it is all but useless on these bikes. Ivans or Factory Pro is what everyone has used for the most part since these bikes were made.
 
#239 ·
Ok so i have never messed with carbs... i work on fuel injected cars all day as im a auto tech. :p so i figured id give jetting my carbs a shot. I have no idea what my elevation is, havent searched it yet. i live in waterloo IA and i am looking to either just buy seperate jets or buy a factory pro kit. What do you guys recommend? And also if i dont get the kit do i just shim the needles? Any help would be appreciated!!! Thanks

Bryant
 
#241 ·
Yes, just shimming the needles will work (seems to work better then FP needles IMO). You could get close with the jets by studying some of the settings listed here, but may need to adjust up or down 1 size for your particular situation.


Ok , since I have adjustable needles could I just copy your jet sizes and be better than the DJ setup? We have about the same engine mods. Or are the FP needles different than the DJ other than the notches?
If you do copy jet sizes, use genuine Kehin jets. Other than the notches, I really don't know about the DJ needles, I ended up putting the factory needles back in and shimming them before I got mine smoothed out (ended up adding another shim (think I'm at 1.1mm now) once I started hitting the track, made the 6-8k steady maintainer throttle around corners butter smooth, it was breaking up and annoying before).
 
#243 ·
I would think my set up would be a close start for you, i'm at 875' above. My bike runs awesome other than at idle.
 
#245 ·
Check out the thread "idle got the best of me" i listed my set up there, also i just posted a video of my bike.
 
#249 ·
Is it possible to replace just the o-rings on the mixture screws? I can't find them without having to buy the whole screw kit.
 
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