Yamaha R6 Forum: YZF-R6 Forums banner

99-02 guys, post your carb settings/mods/elevation

110K views 333 replies 54 participants last post by  1genr6 
#1 ·
So I'm still having some issues with the jetting on my bike, and was wondering what everyone else is running. It's driving me nuts...

My mods/settings:

Yosh TRS slip-on
Ivan's jet kit
OEM & K&N air filters

Going from memory, but I think my needle clips are on the second notch, and my mixture screws are 2.75 turns out. Carbs have been synched, and I haven't checked my float levels.

Elevation is pretty close to sea level (Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada).


My issue is around 8000-9000 RPM, the bike feels like one or two cylinders miss temporarily. Power is reduced, and she sputters until she turns up a bit higher. I've tried running the mixture screws out to 3.25 turns out, and I've tried swapping my K&N filter for an OEM, and neither seems to fix the issue. If anything it currently runs better with the K&N, but not by a lot. It runs pretty well everywhere else in the RPM range, but 8-9K is a horrible spot to have a power loss.

Suggestions? Needles? Check the floats? Change the mixture? I haven't pulled the plugs recently, should I do so?

Cheers!
 
See less See more
#2 · (Edited)
I was gonna post a thread similar to this but i forgot lol. hopefully we get a lot of people replying so this could be a first gen carb database. instead of power commander maps this is what we have...

anyway here are my mods:
Leo Vince slipon
Factory Pro 1.0 jet kit (with 152/148 main jets and stock pilot)
airbox modified (restrictor cut out, and the only air entering the box is from the air ducts up front and the side carb hoses.)
YEC pressurized float bowl clone mod

My jet kit settings are:
needles at the 5th notch, mixture screws at 3.5. float height set to 1mm higher. carbs synched about a week ago.

It was running very lean (plugs were white and there was surging at certain RPMs) so i raised the float level a bit which made it run much smoother. I still have a little tuning to do because I dont believe the needles should be on the 5th notch...

As for your problem Rad33, try lowering the clips on the needles so it runs a little richer. 8-9k is part of the RPM range that the needles heavily affect. Also if you pull your plugs and look at the color of the carbon buildup, it will give a good indication of how rich/lean your engine is running.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Still workin the bugs outta mine too.. It runs like a raped date at WOT all the way to the rev limiter. Breaks up a hair at part throttle when maintaining speed, and around 8k, I get a nice surge of power, and burping the gas shows a mild hesitation below 9k.

Motox is right, you should try to richen your needles.

My setup:
02 R6
HR1 Riot slip on running the baffle wide open
Factory Pro Velocity stacks
OEM air filter
Factory Pro 1.1Ti jet kit

Pilot screws 3.5 turns out
Needle clips are on the 3rd line from the top of the needle.
1100 Ft above sea level
Carbs never synch'd. Floats left as is.
 
#4 ·
Still workin the bugs outta mine too.. It runs like a raped date at WOT all the way to the rev limiter. Breaks up a hair at part throttle when maintaining speed, and around 8k, I get a nice surge of power, and burping the gas shows a mild hesitation below 9k.
Sounds just like my bike. Is it even possible to get a carbed bike to run well at low rpm/part throttle AND run very well at wide open throttle? Its like its either one or the other from what i've noticed :confused:
 
#6 ·
So I finally got around to pulling the plugs today. If anything, I'd say it looks like I'm running rich. All four plugs looked identical. Not the nice tan color I'd like to see, and not white-ish indicating running lean, but slightly darker/sooty color. Still figure I should try going a bit richer on the needles?
 
#7 ·
It's hard to say. I would try going riche on the needles cause I feel like the bog is aused by that. Lookin at the plugs is a good way to see overall perormance/mixture.

The plug would really indicate your main jetting setting. Since that's what the bike really sees.

with the factory pro kit the guy from factory pro said their needles seem to be rich, but you have the ivans. Despite what the factory pro guys said I'm gonna try and go richer. I'm 1 clip from as lean as possible now
 
#8 ·
Looks like Im not the only person trying to figure this out haha

Full akro system
BMC highflow
Factory pro jet

2.5 out and clip on 5th down from top. It runs great 8K+ but bottom seems like it can do some work, occasional bog and crummy start from stop. just replaced plugs and the old one seems rich, carbon build up and one of them seems wet a bit, not too much. Im gonna try to move to fourth clip and see how it runs tomorrow.
 
#10 ·
So with the 4th clip it feels a bit dif but not by much around the mid. I guess it'll save me some MPGs. I found out 2 of my float needle were just not good and leaking fuel slooowly and I cleaned it up a bit and it has gotten better. Last week I opened the carb and looked to find pools of gas on top of the valve. The idle is better, no more hanging before dropping. Doing the blip test now show signs of being lean at idle so im gonna try and do 3 turns out and see how it goes. My exhaust decided to snap off at the collector too so its loud and I loosing power. Sounds great and runs like a mad man in high RPM though haha.
 
#12 ·
I was wondering if running in cold weather will lean our bike out, like 60F. with windchill it must be like 50 something. I was running awesome this morning when it was nice and 80 out but on the way home from work it was 60 and it started to bog and lean pop from 3-7k rpm. works normal during WOT, maybe I should lower the needle back to 5...
 
#14 ·
Need Help!
Recently aquired 01' CLE R6
Has shortened Yoshi TRS(has to be off a suzuki(4bolt connection to mid pipe))
K&N Filter
New plugs
Just put Factory Pro 1.1Ti in it
Screws 3 out
Needles on 3rd clip
Would set floats if I knew what Factory height was.
Runs like GARBAGE between 4&8k(spit, sputters, surges, stumbles)
Above 8k runs great, pulls like a banshee to redline.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Oh yeah, I'm @ sea level (Florida)
 
#16 ·
Thanks for the info. Guess no one knows the float measurement from the carb surface? I'll have to make a gauge to check the way it shows in the manual.
 
#22 ·
Ive got a question maybe you guys can help me with. as far as I know my carbs are factory. when its 80-90 degree's outside it has a hesitation/sputter around 10K at WOT but when its 60 or below it runs perfect through the hole range. is this somthing a synch would fix? thanks I know Ive talked to one or two of you about this already just wanted to get the most opinions possible right now since I dont have the time to rip the bike apart this week.
 
#23 ·
If it runs better when it's colder outside like you are saying, the bike is running rich. The colder air mass is denser, and allows the bike to squeeze more combustible air into the combustion chamber..

At 10k RPMS, the slides are open and you are running on your main jets. The synching sets the carbs up so the slides all open simultaneously. You'd notice more of a breaking up around 7-8k if the carbs were way out of sync.

With that being said, have you looked at your air filter at all? If not, it could be dirty and that is what's causing the rich condition you are describing.
 
#27 ·
So, again, I'm spending winter days picking at the bike a bit.

When you guys are saying you're on the fourth clip/etc, are you referring to the fourth notch from the tapered end of the needle, or the fourth clip from the "stub" end of the needle?

Mine are currently in the middle notch (so third clip from either end), and they currently also have one shim.

I've still got that dead spot around 8000-9000 rpm. Which way will lean me out, and which way richens? I would asume moving the clips close to the tapered end of the needles will richen it? Correct?
 
#28 · (Edited)
So, again, I'm spending winter days picking at the bike a bit.

When you guys are psaying you're on the fourth clip/etc, are you referring to the fourth notch from the tapered end of the needle, or the fourth clip from the "stub" end of the needle?

Mine are currently in the middle notch (so third clip from either end), and they currently also have one shim.

I've still got that dead spot around 8000-9000 rpm. Which way will lean me out, and which way richens? I would asume moving the clips close to the tapered end of the needles will richen it? Correct?
Rad,
When referring to the clip it is always from the top down (i.e. 4th clip= 4th down from the top).
Also, what are your pilots screws set at? Mine didn't start to act right til I was 3+ turns out (currently 3.5 out, might go back to 3(lil rough around 7k)), still on 4th clip down though.
Have you cleaned the pilot jets yet? I was un-tunable until i cleaned mine. 2 of the 4 were almost completely clogged.

I'm running Factory Pro jets 155 (1&4 carbs), 152 (2&3 carbs).
K&N filter(runs better for me with my elevation and settings).
Yoshi TRS shorty.
Sea level elevation(Daytona Beach). 78 degrees today!
 
#29 ·
I'm running the Ivan's kit, so I've got 148's in all four, with 68/105 airs. Running the Ivan's needles, with the clips on the middle notch (third), plus a shim on each. Mixture screws are at 2 3/4 turns out. Plugs are showing a mild rich condition, if anything. Slip on Yosh pipe, and a K&N filter.

Runs good on the bottom end, just a bit of a stumble if I let it idle as low as it probably should. Terrible dead spot/miss around 8000rpms. Feels like one or two cylinders miss temporarily, and then once it rev's beyond that point, it runs strong again.

Thinking I may be running a bit rich at WOT around 8000rpm. Sound plausible?
 
#30 ·
running the ivansk kit with a yosh slip on and factory air filter.
needles 3rd from the top with both washers on top.
fuel screws 2 1/2 out. i live at sea level

pulls like a champ, a little slow below 6k if you just throttle on and it requires a blip of the throttle to start but it runs great. i think you guys who are having issues need to center the needle and go back to 2 1/2 on the screws and start from there. unless you are at a higher elevation
 
#31 ·
I'm at sea level as well, and have swapped to the same setting as you're using FW.

Needles on the 3rd notch, shims on top to take some of the extra slop out. Mix screws are 2 1/2 turns out.

The dead spot around 8000k is better, but not gone. The idle is terrible. If I try and idle it where it should be, it stumbles, stammers, and misses. Is there anything else that may be causing my issue(s). I've tried a number of carb settings now, swapped filters, etc, all to no avail. Is it possible I've got some bigger issue? Compression? Vacumn lines? Bad seal somewhere?
 
#32 ·
Well, had the motor out doing the 05' tranny swap to get 2nd gear back and I ran my pilots back in to 3 turns out instead of the 3.5 I was at before. Re-synced the carbs, and it runs like crap (poppin sputtering under 8k, wicked decel pop) again unless WOT. Gonna go back to the 3.5 turns and leave it.....

And my plugs were nearly perfect looking.
Didn't realize how a little .5 turn makes so much difference, nore how much I missed 2nd gear.
 
#34 ·
Update: 5/13/11
Back to 3.75 turns on the piolts and its as close to perfect as I can get it w/o going to a dyno. Wish i could get this 8k thing figured out....
Oh wait, if i just run WOT through 8K I'm good. :lmao
 
#33 · (Edited)
I finally decided to install a jet kit for My 02. I have a BMC Air filter and HR1 Riot slip-on. I purchased the Dynojet Kit Stage 1 and first went by the settings they provided.

Needles e-clip second slot from top with 2 washers
142 main jets 1&4, and 140 main jets 2&3 cylinders
Air mixture screws 2 turns out

After this it idled normal until It warmed up. Then the idle would hang around 3-4k RPM. Other than that it ran pretty good.

I PM'ed Chiefsmokedog for some advice and he informed me that 2 turns out on the mixture screws were stock. Which was weird when dynojet recommended that. So he suggested to turn them out 3.5 turns. I gave that a try but the idle still hung and actually lasted a bit longer before dropping somewhat.

For some reason I decided to try 4 turns out thinking it would help on the hanging idle, but this time it stayed idling around 3-4K. So I decided instead of tearing her apart again since it was getting dark and didn't have any light I decided to adjust the Idle Knob to lower the idle down to 1500-1750 RPM. Keep in mind the bike was already warmed up. After the adjustment and a blip of the throttle, it responded instantly and dropped back to normal RPM instantly. :toocool:

Going to take her for a spin tomorrow and see what the actual results are. Hopefully I got it set :sing

Final Settings are:
BMC Air Filter, HR1 Riot Slip-on
Dynojet kit Stage 1
Needles, e-clip second slot from top, 2 washers above e-clip
142 main jet 1&4, 140 main jet 2&3 Cylinders
Idle mixture screws 4 turns out.
Also roughly around 505 above sea level

PS: I would like to give thanks to Chiefsmokedog for some good advice!
I present you with a e-beer!
:cheers
 
#35 ·
I've got my carbs pulled off again. I've tried the mix screws, I've tried adjusting needles, all to no avail.

Anyone have a how-to that'll show me how to pull them apart further to make sure there are no plugged jets or something else I'm missing?
 
#41 ·
I wanted one, but last year when I called them, they told me they were indefinitely back ordered. Somethin about their tool and die contractor getting into business with smith & wesson. If u get one lemme kno! I did promise myself no more spending on the old bike, but rules are made to be broken! :laugh
 
#43 · (Edited)
LOL, Ign Adv rocks! Found 1 with a LONG and drawn out search (email notices and all). Called Factory Pro too, they said 60-90 days until they would possibly be making more....... this was awhile ago. Finally in a last stitch effort, tried mis-spelling a letter or 2 in searches and found a guy in Cali. that had 1 left in stock for $50 shipped. YAY!

After the install the 7-8k cruise suk'ed again until after I opened the pilot screwez to over 3.5 turns out. WOT is all you can ask for but cruisin @ 7-8k is rough unless ur doing 70+, then the ram air kinda smooths it out a bit but not perfect. But WOT is smooth through all revs and it pulls like HELL @WOT!
Best $50 I've spent on a performance mod.......

It does run a little warmer but I put Engine Ice in right before this and the temp after the install went back to avg running temp with regular antifreeze (between 170 and 180 unless sitting still). I live in Florida, so I can live with that for sure....

Good luck on the search for 1.........:toocool:
 
#45 ·
+4 and running 2.9ish gear ratio 16/47 (more top end, slower take off). 3.00 is stock, 16/48, which i'm going back to when I get the chance to switch the rear back (got the bike with -1/-1 from stock, weird right...).

Check this chart for gear ratios:
http://srs6.com/gearratiochart.html
2nd gear about 50mph and snatch it and it will flip you if your not careful.
 
#47 ·
^^:werd:toocool:

Might want to check with Factory Pro to get an eta on when they will have them again.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top