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Old 12-12-2005, 11:42 AM   #1
danimal252
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***Need info on lowering my r6 please help***

I have a 2005 r6 raven and would like to lower it. What type of lowering kit should I get and how much will it cost? I've heard that to correctly lower your bike I'd cost $1000, is that true? What are the pros and cons/difference between a $1000 lowering kit and a $150 lowering link? Would lowering it w/ a lowering link affect the factory warranty? I'm 5' 6 and am on my toes when I'm at lights. This is my first bike, any suggestions would be great. Thanks for your time.
Daniel
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Old 12-12-2005, 11:48 AM   #2
05yami
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when I bought my 05, I had it lowered before I took it home. The dealer charged I think around 160 for parts and labor and no it didnt effect the warranty. Now, with the "kit" you are probably replacing the rear shock if I am not mistaken.
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Old 12-12-2005, 12:22 PM   #3
DreamR6
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i asked this exact same question.... responses i got were dont lower it! there is a guy that is 5'3" and can ride just fine, u got 3 inches on him, u cna do it too. im 5'9" and i can stand flat footed but perfectly straight legs, almost tip toeing but i could still do it. hints i got were where boots with some thicker soles, shave the seat down a little bit, that would put you closer to the ground, or just get comfortable and deal with it. as long as you can touch you will be fine as long as you can get comfortable with it. and have some decent muscle lol. you will be fine. my suggestion is dont lower it.
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Old 12-12-2005, 12:26 PM   #4
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I just bought a lowering link so we see how it goes.I am 5'4" I would fell more comfortable If I could put my feet flat on the ground
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Old 12-12-2005, 12:34 PM   #5
danimal252
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Thanks for replying everyone. I really think I need to lower it because I've had a few close calls where I almost dropped my bike cuz of my height (or lack of). I'm 5'6 but it's mostly torso. I plan on riding w/ my girlfriend so I really need complete control @ lights. If I have to I'll spend $$$ to lower it correctly. Any idea of how much i'd cost? Thanks again.
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Old 12-13-2005, 08:17 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danimal252
Thanks for replying everyone. I really think I need to lower it because I've had a few close calls where I almost dropped my bike cuz of my height (or lack of). I'm 5'6 but it's mostly torso. I plan on riding w/ my girlfriend so I really need complete control @ lights. If I have to I'll spend $$$ to lower it correctly. Any idea of how much i'd cost? Thanks again.

Keep in mind that when you drop about another 100lbs on the bike it should lower an inch or so...
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Old 12-13-2005, 08:21 AM   #7
WWW_NAARDEN_BIZ
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damn! i should be selling concrete bags instead of lowering links, hahaha
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Old 12-13-2005, 10:38 AM   #8
mtnbkr
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You guys talk about bike geometry, meaning rake and trail of the bike right? Lowering the bike could potentially change the bike geometry and it could be a GOOD or a BAD thing. Too much rake can cause the bike to stir heavy and to turn lousy, too short of a rake can cause can the bike to wobble or be unstable at high speed but it turns quickly. Don’t believe me check the rake and trail of sportbikes and see their review or do it the hard way get a pen and pencil and do some physics and mathematical calculations.

For the benefit of those who are challenged vertically like myself, here’s my advice. For street riding (including twisties) you can lower your bike’s standover height for about 2 inches without changing your bike geometry and suspension. Shave the seat off by an inch (just an inch to leave some cushion) and an inch lowering link. Install the lowering link (1 inch setting) slide the fork on triple clamp down for an inch. Now check your rake and compare it with the stock, it should be the same if not really close to it. No bike geometry change since rake and trail are the same as the stock. Yes the ground clearance now is a bit lower but I don’t believe you need a full lean (running 70-90 mph on turns) on the streets anyway. I do ride lots of twisties and whenever I need to do fast tight turn I would slide my but off my seat and lean. And oh! don’t forget to tune your suspension, stock setting is OK but tuning it based on your weight and riding style make it a LOT better. It’s a different story when I’m doing tracks, I would install the stock “dogbone” and slide my fork back up and set my suspension for track. This is mainly to get back ground clearance for those high speed turns, helps lower the lap time. There you go you just got the best of both worlds.

OK has anyone here have lowered their bike or have use a lowered bike? I've seen a lot of advice here which is a GOOD thing but let's hear it first hand from those guy who did lower their bike or who have used a lowered bike. Come on guys step up it's for the benefit of everybody.
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Old 05-27-2007, 06:32 PM   #9
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Re: ***Need info on lowering my r6 please help***

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnbkr
You guys talk about bike geometry, meaning rake and trail of the bike right? Lowering the bike could potentially change the bike geometry and it could be a GOOD or a BAD thing. Too much rake can cause the bike to stir heavy and to turn lousy, too short of a rake can cause can the bike to wobble or be unstable at high speed but it turns quickly. Don’t believe me check the rake and trail of sportbikes and see their review or do it the hard way get a pen and pencil and do some physics and mathematical calculations.

For the benefit of those who are challenged vertically like myself, here’s my advice. For street riding (including twisties) you can lower your bike’s standover height for about 2 inches without changing your bike geometry and suspension. Shave the seat off by an inch (just an inch to leave some cushion) and an inch lowering link. Install the lowering link (1 inch setting) slide the fork on triple clamp down for an inch. Now check your rake and compare it with the stock, it should be the same if not really close to it. No bike geometry change since rake and trail are the same as the stock. Yes the ground clearance now is a bit lower but I don’t believe you need a full lean (running 70-90 mph on turns) on the streets anyway. I do ride lots of twisties and whenever I need to do fast tight turn I would slide my but off my seat and lean. And oh! don’t forget to tune your suspension, stock setting is OK but tuning it based on your weight and riding style make it a LOT better. It’s a different story when I’m doing tracks, I would install the stock “dogbone” and slide my fork back up and set my suspension for track. This is mainly to get back ground clearance for those high speed turns, helps lower the lap time. There you go you just got the best of both worlds.

OK has anyone here have lowered their bike or have use a lowered bike? I've seen a lot of advice here which is a GOOD thing but let's hear it first hand from those guy who did lower their bike or who have used a lowered bike. Come on guys step up it's for the benefit of everybody.

here here! i am one for hearing from someone that currently rides/drives a lowered bike.

reason being... just like the rest of us shorties out here, i'm about 5'8". and just sitting on a R6 feels very akward. start out with shaving the seat, and go from there i guess.

i think the fat girlfriend thing is out of the question. i've had too many already.
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Old 12-12-2005, 12:52 PM   #10
Jay
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I have to agree with most people try and shave your seat down. If you really want to lower it I have a set of lowering links I will sell you cheap. With those all you would need to do is raise the forks in the triple, not hard either and you should be set. The links have two settings 1&1/2" and 3" lower. Here is a ebay auction with links like I have.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/03-05...spagenameZWDVW

I had them on my bike for a year. They are nice just realize you will lose a little handling when you do this. I'll let them go for $20+shipping
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