If you have a PC AutoTune be prepared to weld your mid pipe on. The O2 sensor will hit your frame not allowing you to push the mid pipe towards the header enough. I just found this out today installing my M4 y-pipe. O..It is also ridiculously(Left cats in header) LOUD
1992 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - Sold
1997 Honda CBR 600 F3 - Sold
2006 Honda CBR 600 F4i - Sold
2007 Yamaha YZF-R6 - HB Flush Mount Blinkers(2-Wire to 3-Wire Mod), Fender Eliminator, Frame Sliders, Driven Smog Block Off Plates, PC-V, AutoTune, Stock Slip-on with Exup, M4 Y-Pipe(Welded and Cats Still Intact), Pazzo Racing Levers, DDM Tuning 5K HID's and 6K LED Third Eye
Eric10301:what about needing smog block off plates?
Wish2000: I am lookin at getting the t-tuner slip on mid pipe so no need for welding. An I am gutting the header out. Looking to make all the power I can
Last time I checked pretty much all the mid pipes were very close in price. I believe the M4 is stainless, the rest being standard steel.
I still prefer the MJS header route, you end up with a header you can just bolt on that is ceramic coated (the coating is very nice, much nicer than spray painting your header), and it removes the cats in the header tubes. It's something like $70-80 difference if you return your factory header to MJS compared to the mid-pipe. It definitely simplifies the install, no worries about cutting thing's wrong, or exhaust leaks, fitment issues, etc.