Re: 2008 CBR 600RR Graffiti owner here...looking into possibly trading/owning a 2009
Hey everyone I've got a few questions:
1. Upon cold start, the bike takes almost 4 full seconds to fire up. My battery is brand new and not the issue. When it does turn over, it idles ~1,500. Every bike I've ever owned has fired right up cold and strong and cold idled/auto-choked to up around 2,000 rpm before it crept back down slowly to normal operating temp idle. It's almost like this bike has no cold idle choke? I've read on this forum of people having this same issue. I read there was an issue with the 06 and some early 07's in which the plane bearing for the crank had too MUCH clearance, and when the bike idles, makes very low oil pressure. Is it true that in the 08 revision, Yamaha made slightly wider crank journals to alleviate this low oil psi issue at idle? I'm just worried about this low oil pressure issue coupled with an already low idle.
2. It fires up normally and right away after it's been warmed. Huge difference in time between cold start.
3. What is the correct OEM idle for these bikes? It seems way too low (mine seems to hover around 1300-1200 rpm. It's bouncy as well sometimes. I hate having to rev/throttle it every time I want top take off from a stop in first. My 08 CBR RR would idle pinned at 1,500 and you simply had to ease out the clutch and she'd start rolling. Definitely not the case with this R6. If I did that, it would simply stall.
4. What temp does the thermo start opening? What temp is the thermo completely open?
5. I'm planning on sending my ECU to OhioYJ to be reflashed. I'd like to have the throttle unlocked (taking off the EPA restrictions that close the TB's at high RPM) so basically flashing the ECU back to an 08's. I also think it's a good idea to have him raise my idle to 1,900rpm. My idea is that not only will this provide better idle engine oil pressure/flow, it will also help in first gear take off. I won't need to rev/throttle her so much to take off.
6. When cold, this motor makes a TON of chatter and valve/lifters/clicking/tapping noises. Is this normal? Sorry, I'm used to my CBR RR that was super quiet and smooth regardless of temp and rpm. I remember my old F4i's cam chain tensioner, now that was annoying...like a can filled with BB's. But this R6 is pretty damn chatter-y
Re: 2008 CBR 600RR Graffiti owner here...looking into possibly trading/owning a 2009
the cold start issue and idle sound normal to me. both R6s that ive owned did the same. i have a ecu re flash and that helped resolve some of the smaller issues you just addressed. my idle is around 1900 - 2000 and i have no complaints there. the noise on cold start up, i think mine makes a bit more noise then warm as well. hopefully others will chime in as to that as well.
Re: 2008 CBR 600RR Graffiti owner here...looking into possibly trading/owning a 2009
I got my ECU flashed and the cold start up is 22-2300 and then it backs off to 2000 within a few seconds. Once warm it is 12-1400. Pretty much same as stock once warm.
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Re: 2008 CBR 600RR Graffiti owner here...looking into possibly trading/owning a 2009
Ah I see. I'm hoping that after OhioYJ re-flashes my ECU that the idle will stick around 1,900-2,000 rpm regardless of temp.....Anybody else find it odd that the stock ECU cold idles as well as warm idles as low as 1,400-1,200? This seems super low to me. Especially on a bike that's characteristically down on power low end. No wonder pre-08 motors had oil supply/pump/low pressure issues at idle. Motor is barley turning!
Re: 2008 CBR 600RR Graffiti owner here...looking into possibly trading/owning a 2009
Quote:
Originally Posted by mac7504
What's the manual say? Isn't 2K high? And just wasting gas?
Not sure, The PO didn't give me the manual. And 2k doesn't seem high, many people are running flashed ECU's with a 2k rpm idle and they love it! Easier to take off out of first and get going without having to rev. Theoretically, one would also think that the oil pressure would be higher and better at a higher idle as well...where are the Guru's at to chime in!??? OhioYJ??
The brake light works great but I was unable to connect the turn signal connections/wires. When I bought my bike, it had a fender eliminator on it and no turn signals. I am unsure what the PO did to the wiring/connectors. The 2 quick connectors on the sub harness of the motodynamic tail light for the turn signals do not match the type of connector (actually lack there of, see pics below, the 2 wires with metal connectors on the ends) on the bikes harness.
If you click on "VIEW INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS HERE", on the motodynamic link above, it is the connectors on the 3rd photo down from the top. It's the gray connector that I don't have on the bikes harness.
These are the directions that I'm stuck on: "Connect the longer end of the sub harness; Blue/Black wire to the gray connector and Yellow/Black to the black connector". Here's a photo of the harness/wires I assume are the turn signal wires that I need to plug into the motodynamic sub harness (white connectors). I'm assuming the turn signal connectors on the bikes harness were taken off by the PO. If these are the correct wires, what do I need to buy (connector-wise) to connect to the sub harness connectors?
Do the green and brown wires each have a black wire with them? If so, you can cut off the connectors the PO put on, cut the connectors off the tail light, then connect the wires directly.
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