Will do. Mine is the one with the volt meter on it and it shows this one pair of cells being lame. A quick jump in the AM and it'll start and run all day no problem, but I'm still sad about it since it's only been in use for a couple thousand miles.
I'll contact him to repair it so it's not a paperweight. I've got a couple 4 cell speed cells coming to me soon anyway. I'm over all the cheap alternatives. I need a reliable battery in my bike. Especially when it's on the grid for a pro event. I was biting my fcuking nails ALL weekend over this battery. Thank god I've got the 8 cell or I woulda been high and dry and looked like a real awesome sponsor at the AMA rounds I spent every dollar on.
give it a shot and talk to them. i had a problem with my first one (likely my fault) and they sent out a new one no questions asked.
yes! and don't just read the motor octane of MR12 on the website.. (go to the SPECS sheet!) that is a rating most of us are NOT familiar with. The octane rating by what most of us recognize pump gas by, R+M/2 is 93 ..87 octane shown on the VP site is a different method of octane rating used in race fuels.
i honestly could care less what the markup is on a Ballistic battery.. they are comparable in price to other lightweight batteries, and work. not saying others don't, but I know these do the job. One of the biggest issues with people having issues with l.w. batteries, is using a regular charger on them overnight or way too long. You don't charge these more than 45 minutes.. ever.
I know there's motor octane and the research value. I've got a sweet cheat sheet someone dropped in the AMA paddock It has all the fuels lined up and what the R+M/2 value is that we ARE used to seeing. MR12 is definitley a lower octane fuel than say sunoco 100 from the pump! That shit is like CRACK too though!!!
My point about the ballistic batteries is that you get what you pay for. The quality isn't there unless you are only concerned with the case of the battery. The cells aren't great, there's no reason a 4 cell battery shouldn't start these R6's. So we had Chip? I think that was his name on here posting all we need is a 4 cell for our little 600's. Then it was evident that it was hit or miss at best with the batteries working well enough to start with only 4 cells. Then it was 8 cells for street bikes, 4 cells for track bikes.. Then it was just WTFE at that point. Who's gonna go through that shit again? Nto me!!! They went HUGE on marketing and not so huge on their cell quality. That's my take on it.
It's another knock off product if you know it's true origins... And I bet you may know this as well since you know a few people in the industry.
There's a reason you can't get good quality stuff at Walmart and Home Depot, etc... It's cause they strong arm the companies into making inferior products to protect the 50+% margin and very high volume order capabilities they require. So with them at the price point they are at, you do the math and tell me where the margins come from?
I've also seen them come and go from more than one local shop with nothing but trouble. Despite the extra 5% incentive on them, I have no interest and won't recommend them, neither will the reputable places in my area either. I'd send someone to Shorai first and I don't even push them.
The only person who has had such spectacular luck on them is Isaac. I wouldn't be surprised if it was cause it's warm where he was, and cause the 06-07 has less compression..
My .02
Quote:
Originally Posted by My94GT
give it a shot and talk to them. i had a problem with my first one (likely my fault) and they sent out a new one no questions asked.
Will do bro. It's doing no good for me right now and if repaired I'd consider it for the B-bike for sure.
if ya don't wanna sell Ballistic, no problem! but they work, and i don't think you could point out any single SMALL business that has not had growing pains, and customer service issues. Especially like a lightweight battery where 1/2 the issues or more are due to people improperly charging them.. Sure, there are other good lt wt batteries, but Ballistic does a good job. If they were suggesting a 4-cell for 600's early on? that may have been a mistake. But too many get caught up with the whole "i gotta save that extra 1/2 pound" LOL.. and don't get the "better" choice.. 8cell.
and the compression ratio of the 06-07 vs. the 08+ would have nothing to do with how well a battery cranked. We are talking 12:7 vs 13.1 to 1 ratios. Not significant.
but i'm with you. if you had a bad experience with em, it's no wonder you are not gonna pound the drum for them.. i and many others just have had good experiences, and the batteries DO work. Yes, i am aware of and have had personal and business dealings with the principals of Ballistic and Alien Batteries
Works sweet on my bike, still locks her up for tech:
$380 for the full fronts, crazy light, super strong, from the same guy:
Get a Shorai.
I've never had to balance mine, starts crazy strong every time.
I assume you're already running 520 and light sprockets, etc.
Lighter rims? Either CF or Marchesini.
-Jamie M.
that rear rotos is exactly what i needed! have you used the front? im a little worried about warping them and ending up on my face. the rear doesnt matter so much because nreally you only tap that in a holy shit im going in too hot moment to bring her in a bit more.
how long have you used your shorai for? do you think my idea of just starting the bike with the battery and removing it would work? i may have to try it on a track day one day.
lighter rims are too rich for my blood, haha. unless they are used! im not a fan of the CF, but i would go forged aluminum if the price was right.
There are a huge amount of people that use them on the track and have absolutly no problems.
ill check them out too, thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiefSmokeDawg
Will do. Mine is the one with the volt meter on it and it shows this one pair of cells being lame. A quick jump in the AM and it'll start and run all day no problem, but I'm still sad about it since it's only been in use for a couple thousand miles.
I'll contact him to repair it so it's not a paperweight. I've got a couple 4 cell speed cells coming to me soon anyway. I'm over all the cheap alternatives. I need a reliable battery in my bike. Especially when it's on the grid for a pro event. I was biting my fcuking nails ALL weekend over this battery. Thank god I've got the 8 cell or I woulda been high and dry and looked like a real awesome sponsor at the AMA rounds I spent every dollar on.
you sponsor an AMA team!? thats legit!
Quote:
Originally Posted by shnormo
You really could shave weight by sanding down non structural components. I.e. all the way at the end of the sub frame where the tail light used to be.
Big ticket items, light weight wheels. Snip unneeded wiring, titanium bolts it all comes down to money. Magnesium is lighter than aluminum.
i have been considering knocking off all non essential mounting brackets and things aswell but i dont have the room for a tear down. two bikes in a single garage with shelfing doesnt leave much haha. does anyone make a race harness for this thing? i know yoshi makes one for the gixxer. whats with the huge hole in the frame? that worrys me. ive never seen that before at our local track, haha.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MELK-MAN
most weight savings for the $ and time, is a Ballistic Battery.. but deal with the extra 1/2 pound or whatever and get an 8 cell not a 4 cell. They are still CRAZY light compared to an OEM battery and in over a year in both my bikes, i have never had to put a charger to them.
The rest is gonna be more money than the bike is seriously worth.. little things as noted in the post above? . have at it. knock yourself out
be warry of advancing the timing.. that should be determined by what FUEL you use, and how it performs on the dyno. With MR12 or most of the oxy fuels, you will find MORE power retarding the timing at higher rpms, NOT advancing. Just fyi. Yes, advance could help, but talk to a good tuner about what fuel benefits that ignition timing.
Slide stops. For sure. a must on this bike. as is a good tune.
my bike is tuned to run on race gas, but i never asked which one. hahaha. i just run pump gas for now. im tacking weight because thats an issue, where as horsepower isnt. i need to figure out my tire strategy better for next year as i kept spinning my rear up a lot. it makes for a very expencive race, lol. thats something that if i were to go that route i would have someone do it for me, haha.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiefSmokeDawg
MR12 is such low octane that advancing 4 degrees could lead to detonation easily. I'm sure that's why you make more power retarding it. It allows you to take advantage of the more flammable fuel that is also jam packed with oxygen. While I've seen plenty of bone stock newer higher compression R6's run it, and pickup a 2-4 HP from MR9 alone, I would never advise on a 4 degree advance running it.
And I'd buy anything other than a ballistic battery IMO. Preferably something that isn't ridiculously marked up and less quality to allow the HUGE margins parts unlimited requires... I'll make far less margins, if any selling speed cell anyday over ballistic. And I do this solely on the premises that I sell what I stand behind.
i know a little about batteries, and i know a cheaper batter is usually just as good as long as you take care of it. of course there is always a bad apple, though. ill look into all of them and weigh out what i figure will work best!
Quote:
Originally Posted by MELK-MAN
yes! and don't just read the motor octane of MR12 on the website.. (go to the SPECS sheet!) that is a rating most of us are NOT familiar with. The octane rating by what most of us recognize pump gas by, R+M/2 is 93 ..87 octane shown on the VP site is a different method of octane rating used in race fuels.
i honestly could care less what the markup is on a Ballistic battery.. they are comparable in price to other lightweight batteries, and work. not saying others don't, but I know these do the job. One of the biggest issues with people having issues with l.w. batteries, is using a regular charger on them overnight or way too long. You don't charge these more than 45 minutes.. ever.
im an RC guy aswell, so i know a bit about charging batteries. =) you just have to have a good charger that knows when the battery is full. how often have you had to charge yours? your bike doesnt recharge it? or have you removed the stator?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiefSmokeDawg
I've also seen them come and go from more than one local shop with nothing but trouble. Despite the extra 5% incentive on them, I have no interest and won't recommend them, neither will the reputable places in my area either. I'd send someone to Shorai first and I don't even push them.
The only person who has had such spectacular luck on them is Isaac. I wouldn't be surprised if it was cause it's warm where he was, and cause the 06-07 has less compression..
My .02
thanks for the info! i havent had a chance to use any of these so its good to know beforehand. i had a sponsor offer one up but as time was tight i diddnt have a chance to get in on it before the deadline.
i know a little about batteries, and i know a cheaper batter is usually just as good as long as you take care of it. of course there is always a bad apple, though. ill look into all of them and weigh out what i figure will work best!
im an RC guy aswell, so i know a bit about charging batteries. =) you just have to have a good charger that knows when the battery is full. how often have you had to charge yours? your bike doesnt recharge it? or have you removed the stator?
]
i have NEVER had to charge either of my Ballistic batteries. 8cell. Installed over a year ago and came charged, ready to instal. My race bikes only get ridden 1 time or so a month. Sometimes 2x a month, but then we have a 2 month break in the summer (brutal hot here in FL in the summer). Even during that 2 month break i never put em on a charger. Stock stator/charging systems.
another WEIGHT saver, if you are going to go with an aftermarket SHOCK. is the JRi shock. Do some google searching. They got a start in F1, and in nascar are on over 1/2 the cars there. Tim Godshall headed up an effort to do roadrace stuff, and the technology has spilled over to make a shock that weighs 3 pounds.. It is stupid light when you have any other shock in your hand to compare. The smaller body design is not only light, but makes for less internal seal drag. this provides better response to high speed bumps. (not fast mph high speed, small bumps that make the shock work up/down fast).
another WEIGHT saver, if you are going to go with an aftermarket SHOCK. is the JRi shock. Do some google searching. They got a start in F1, and in nascar are on over 1/2 the cars there. Tim Godshall headed up an effort to do roadrace stuff, and the technology has spilled over to make a shock that weighs 3 pounds.. It is stupid light when you have any other shock in your hand to compare. The smaller body design is not only light, but makes for less internal seal drag. this provides better response to high speed bumps. (not fast mph high speed, small bumps that make the shock work up/down fast).
How does less oil volume effect the service schedule of the unit?
[B]that rear rotos is exactly what i needed! have you used the front? im a little worried about warping them and ending up on my face. the rear doesnt matter so much because nreally you only tap that in a holy shit im going in too hot moment to bring her in a bit more.
I will be using his fronts next season. All the canadian superbike guys here run his front and rear rotors so if it'll hold up to that ish I assume it'll work for ya
Quote:
Originally Posted by #79
how long have you used your shorai for? do you think my idea of just starting the bike with the battery and removing it would work? i may have to try it on a track day one day.
I've had my Shorai about 7 months now, works sweet. No idea if the bike will run without a battery. I know my CBR 929 wouldn't run without a battery
How does less oil volume effect the service schedule of the unit?
i have no idea to be honest, contact Tim Godshall at JRi shocks or Thermosman.
but we are not talking 1/10th the oil volume. it's ALL the parts collectively, including a TI spring that make it only wight 3 pounds. But if you (not you specifically..LOL) are not servicing a shock one time a year ya really don't need an aftermarket shock that is THIS good (and costly). There was a cool article in November's RoadRacing World about JRi shock company. (where i got some of those specs from )