Well at 16k miles after only using YamaLube (I had no idea it was the worst oil on the market) I had carbon build up on the intake valves, I switched over to Amsoil and by the next oil change the valves were crystal clean. AND YES I KNOW it should not really effect the intake valves since they are being sprayed with fuel the entire time and should not ever come in contact with engine oil (but the crankcase does breath through the airbox), but I have honestly refueled at the same Exxon near my house every of the time (I have to refuel at different places away from home on long trips, obviously), but I can't realy quantify it but it happened. And yes the seat is AWESOME.
engine oil has NOTHING to do with intake valve buildup. zip. nada. The only way it would is if you had some leaking valve guide seals, where oil was running down the valve stem. However IF that were the case you would get smoke on start up.. like my 295,000 mile Acura vigor And if you had leaking guide seals, you would have leaking guide seals with oil 'A' and oil 'B'.
You get 2 things on your intake valves . 1-AIR 2-FUEL . So if you had any buildup, it was from a crazy rich a/f condition, or a LEAKING INJECTOR.
Oil in the airbox from pcv (positive crankcase ventilation) has nothing to do with this either unless you were crazy overfull with oil, or the bike tipped over and some oil ran up the breather hose.
The KIND of oil you ran in the engine, had nothing to do with "buildup" on the intakes. And for what it's worth, the CARBON build up that occurs on exhaust valves, won't even come off with the valve spun in a drill and wrapped with scotchbright pads. We try. Carbon - infant diamonds. hard. so it's kind of laughable to think carbon would come off instantly with an engine oil change or from the marketing gimmickry the gas companies would try to have you believe.
OK maybe its overkill but I bought the bike in 09 and it was an 07 with 4000 miles, original plugs and the oil had only been changed twice (stealer-ship receipts). So I have had it 3 years and I have put 35000 miles miles on her (with only a 5 mile commute to work). I have changed the plugs 6 times in three years, so twice a year I change my plugs. I dont think that is crazy but my bike also looks and runs like its Brand New. I can honestly say my bike is in dang near MINT Condition without a single scratch on her. Now there are signs of riding the hell out of her, super tiny pitting only from riding , Chief Smoke Dawg can attest to that when I rode up there for the BBQ. My intake valves even look brand new with a slight gold tint, Not a speck of carbon build up.
Yeah, I might be a little anal when it comes to my bike, But she is my baby. My girl is always complaining I wax my bike more than I wax her, lol. But hey to each there own. If you need any proof of what I claim, I have plenty of Pictures of how clean she is and Data logs of how she good runs in .csv format.
Oh and here is a pic I took last night....
nice bike, are your rims painted in 2 tone or are they powdercoated?
checking valve clearance is VERY easy.. adjusting valves is another story entirely. I would get a quote to CHECK valves. The 3rd gen valves are coated titanium valves. The hard coat just doesn't wear for a very long time. Once it wears off though, and the soft TI (soft compared to stainless steel) is exposed to the valve seats, the recess up into the valve pocket pretty fast, your clearance shrinks, and you get lower compression numbers. That leads to hard starts, and loss of power.
Again.. CHECKING clearance is super easy. Pull the tank and airbox outa the way. Get all the plug wires and coils out, the valve cover will come out, and then remove the timing chain/ignition cover. Rotate the crank with teh 12mm bolt to get the intake cam lobes pointed back for each pair you check.. and the exst. lobes pointing forward (all level with the head angle). Slide the feeler gauge under each lobe!
That's it! if you can't get the spec feeler in there, they are out of spec. If you can't get ANY feeler gauge in there.. the clearance is close to or zeroed out.
spark plugs every other oil change?? wow.. LOL .. benefit of that is his plugs should never get seized in the head
i just tackled this job last night cuz i have my motor out of my bike at this time, the manual said to have cam lobes facing away from one anotherso i lined up the mark and got the cylinder #1 to TDC verified it by magnet down in spark plug hole and hit piston, lobes were away from one another, but the book also says to rotate 180* to do cylinder #2 so i rotated the T mark 180* and the lobes on #2 were facing one another so im guessing turning the T mark 180* does not make the crank turn 180*. i ended up having to turn the T mark from the original casing line 540* to get cylinder #2 to be facing away from one another and another 540* for cylinder #4 then 540* to get to #3 to make all of them face out. did i do this correctly,cuz we checked it both ways and got different measurements.
now the odd part, i only have just over 10k miles on my bike and only checked them cuz the motor is out im having frame powdercoated, but i have a few exhaust sides that are .203 and should be .230-.300. the .203 fit easy but the .229 would not fit at all so im thinkin i have to adjust a few of those. The intakes were pretty good and some were at the preferred .15 with one or 2 at .179. seems wierd to have to adjust so many at only 10k miles but pretty sure we did it just right and i have heard a bit of a valve tick.
They're powdercoated, and I believe they're also for sale.
i was curious cuz im having my rims done right now in a trans blue but the guy said he couldnt do the outside lips in white or that it wouldnt come out right so im gonna have the outer lips painted white when there done.
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OES No Cut angle sliders,spools, bar ends
Watsen flushmounts-Ryan5544
Custom FE
Modified 05 Headers
Modified Devil Rocket CF slip on
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6k HIDs-AggRacing
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BMC Race Filter-Bauce Racing
Reservoir Socks-Slowboy
Got all my parts in for the valve adjustment except one. Its the Timing chain tensioner washer/gasket that goes on towards the top of it, not really to sure what it does but it calls for a new one. Anyone know if I can reuse the old one? The part number is 5SL-12214-00-00
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And if you had leaking guide seals, you would have leaking guide seals with oil 'A' and oil 'B'. 
their bikes bad
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