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Old 11-19-2012, 10:52 AM   #31
JShep720
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Re: rear tire kick out

If he just had the Chain installed is it possible that they adjusted the chain TOO tight causing the suspension to bind up and loose grip when it unload a little? Happens on the track if your chain is very tight and not allowing the suspension itself to work properly and keep the tire in contact with the pavement.

Not my diagnosis but food for thought.
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:37 PM   #32
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Re: rear tire kick out

Quote:
Originally Posted by GenPatton View Post
I mean no disrespect Chief, but I had to run a 14T/47T on my bike for a little bit because a company sent me the wrong sprocket, so I ran my wheel all the way back on the adjuster (So I can add a larger front sprocket and not have to add links), and between the forward setting, and the rear setting, I really felt no difference with the handling/turning of my bike on the street.

I've never ridden on the track (Hope to change that this upcoming year), and I definitely am not educated in how stuff works like wheel adjustment, but just from personal street experience, I don't see how it could affect him to where it's noticeable.
On the street you could probably run 14psi in the rear tire and not "notice" a difference. Street riding is a lot different than track riding, where you're actually [somewhat] approaching the limit of the machine.
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:39 PM   #33
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Re: rear tire kick out

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Originally Posted by pickpocket293 View Post
On the street you could probably run 14psi in the rear tire and not "notice" a difference. Street riding is a lot different than track riding, where you're actually [somewhat] approaching the limit of the machine.
Exactly .. so how could where the tire be adjusted possibly have such a noticeable impact on the OP's street riding? I just don't see it being possible. Unless this topic has moved from the OP's issues to just noticing a difference in wheel location on the track, if so, ignore me.
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:44 PM   #34
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Re: rear tire kick out

Quote:
Originally Posted by GenPatton View Post
I mean no disrespect Chief, but I had to run a 14T/47T on my bike for a little bit because a company sent me the wrong sprocket, so I ran my wheel all the way back on the adjuster (So I can add a larger front sprocket and not have to add links), and between the forward setting, and the rear setting, I really felt no difference with the handling/turning of my bike on the street.

I've never ridden on the track (Hope to change that this upcoming year), and I definitely am not educated in how stuff works like wheel adjustment, but just from personal street experience, I don't see how it could affect him to where it's noticeable.
Then you've never leaned the bike long enough to miss an apex, etc. When you've hit 1 turn 50 times, and then you move your axle well over an inch, then you go for time 51, you will be wide, off the apex, or the bike will turn differently. On the 3rd Gen, I've been all the way forward and back. All the way forward and it's a tank slap monster and nearly uncontrollable over bumps on the street.

If you're just cruisin around town, no you won't notice much of anything. But move that axle an inch and it's the difference between lifting the tire and not in most instances on the 3rd gen.

You setup a Gen 1 very long and tall in the front, and you get a TON of squat on the shock. It's insane, and the bike is long to begin with in regards to forks to accomplish the wheelbase, etc and it's a shitty setup.

It only takes a couple mm's of adjustment on the bike whether it be ride height, or sag and the bike acts much different. Maybe not to you, but to someone who's riding the edge of the tire, scrounging for tenths, it really makes a difference.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JShep720 View Post
If he just had the Chain installed is it possible that they adjusted the chain TOO tight causing the suspension to bind up and loose grip when it unload a little? Happens on the track if your chain is very tight and not allowing the suspension itself to work properly and keep the tire in contact with the pavement.

Not my diagnosis but food for thought.
This could be the best explanation yet. The OP could be getting ANTI-squat, vs excessive squat that I would expect since it's so tight. A very tight chain can hinder the suspension travel in the rear, chip sprocket teeth, and make tight spots in chains, etc..

Maybe the OP will return so we don't need to keep wondering what to debate over.
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:46 PM   #35
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Re: rear tire kick out

Quote:
Originally Posted by GenPatton View Post
Exactly .. so how could where the tire be adjusted possibly have such a noticeable impact on the OP's street riding? I just don't see it being possible. Unless this topic has moved from the OP's issues to just noticing a difference in wheel location on the track, if so, ignore me.
Some people THINK they're fast on the street... Really, due to the lack of feedback from the OP there's really no way to know any of it. I think his coolant was low, which forced his bike to almost lowside.
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:48 PM   #36
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Re: rear tire kick out

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Originally Posted by pickpocket293 View Post
Uhhh... Talk to a drag racer about that and see what they say. It works the opposite actually. With a longer length of the swingarm, more of the weight of the bike and rider are centered over the front wheel, so the rear is easier to break loose. That's why that video with the R1 drifting (picture above) has an extended swingarm.
You are correct. I had it backwards.

However the problem is still related to a heavy hand.

The longer wheel base will slow turning down a noticeable amount at higher speeds and with a proficient rider at hand. I tried it looking for stability and found the bike to turn too slow for my setup and needs. At the street rider level no discernible difference will probably be noticed. I would bet that you will notice more change simply switching from a 180 to a 190 profile tire.
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