A friend showed me recently how to replace the front pads, and whilst the majority of the job seemed easy enough, the bleeding of the hydraulic system didn't quite settle into my head as comfortably as perhaps I suggested at the time...
I have read the How To guide for later models of my two wheeled beast, and am wondering if they are the exact same instructions for my 99' model???
Is it essential to bleed the hydraulic system?? Or can I take the callipers apart, give them a clean with some brake fluid, new pads in, calipers back together and over the disc???
Well you don't have to bleed the brakes to change pads. If you haven't changed the fluid in a while you might wanna do that tho.
__________________ mods: woodcraft clipons and frame sliiders, leo vince slip on, 05 header mod, pcv, agg smog block offs and sbk res kit, robby moto sbk rearsets, 520 -1+2 renthal.set up, bauce racing ecu flash, ebc hh pads, and some small cosmetic stuff.
A friend showed me recently how to replace the front pads, and whilst the majority of the job seemed easy enough, the bleeding of the hydraulic system didn't quite settle into my head as comfortably as perhaps I suggested at the time...
I have read the How To guide for later models of my two wheeled beast, and am wondering if they are the exact same instructions for my 99' model???
Is it essential to bleed the hydraulic system?? Or can I take the callipers apart, give them a clean with some brake fluid, new pads in, calipers back together and over the disc???
If you take the caliper apart - as in, remove the piston from the caliper - then you'll definitely need to bleed the system.
If you don't open up the system to air in any way (open a bleeder valve, pull a piston out of a caliper, disconnect any lines) then there should be no need to bleed. If the fluid is more than two years old, I would take the time to flush it all out and bleed the system though.
Bleeding on your '99 will be almost identical to the other years. The only difference is that '05 and later bikes have a bleeder valve on the front master cylinder that your bike won't have. Unless you disconnect the brake lines, you most likely won't need to bleed the cylinder anyway.
If for some reason you do get air in the master cylinder, you can bleed it by wrapping a towel around the banjo bolt and cracking it open / closing in the same way you'd crack the bleeder valve. Same principle, just a lot messier because there's no nipple to hook up hose to.
Well...I put this job off for too long it seems. After finding my second lump of metal in a rear tyre in the space of 3 weeks, and rather than purchasing another new rear, I had the 3 week old rear plugged. After picking up my 99' r6 from the mechanic there was an instant metal grating sound, which was not there before. I rode home very gingerly after noting that any pressure on the rear brake pedal resulted in a nasty grinding sound much worse than the new metal scraping when not pressed...arriving home I saw the rotor bobbled and rancid.
I have new rear brake pads here at my house, now I assume I MUST change them before riding the bike anymore else I will do even more damage?
Why could having the rear tyre plugged have caused the brakes to change??? I knew they were thin before, but not scraping metal on metal like now...
What tools do I need for this urgently needed job?? Needle pliers...meths...brake fluid...
as always, all help is greatly appreciated.
cheers,
D
Well...I put this job off for too long it seems. After finding my second lump of metal in a rear tyre in the space of 3 weeks, and rather than purchasing another new rear, I had the 3 week old rear plugged. After picking up my 99' r6 from the mechanic there was an instant metal grating sound, which was not there before. I rode home very gingerly after noting that any pressure on the rear brake pedal resulted in a nasty grinding sound much worse than the new metal scraping when not pressed...arriving home I saw the rotor bobbled and rancid.
I have new rear brake pads here at my house, now I assume I MUST change them before riding the bike anymore else I will do even more damage?
Why could having the rear tyre plugged have caused the brakes to change??? I knew they were thin before, but not scraping metal on metal like now...
What tools do I need for this urgently needed job?? Needle pliers...meths...brake fluid...
as always, all help is greatly appreciated.
cheers,
D
Because whoever put the wheel back on probably aligned the rear caliper incorrectly.
Tools you will need are some sockets, like 6-12mm I think? Brake fluid, and a Phillips I believe. Pretty easy.
Try as hard as I can, spray dw40, wait a while, go at the ****ers again...but still, no avail...more dw40, allen key fits perfectly, even trying a few taps with a hammer, but nothing, not budging an inch. Any advice???
I am attempting to remove the left and right allen bolt...which is the first step of removing the brake pads???
Also...as mentioned above in this thread, the scraping, clearly metal upon metal gnashing sound appeared after I had picked the bike up from the mechanics...the rotor disc now looks like this>
And when I began to try change the pads, I noticed the rear bolt seemingly which helps to hold the caliper onto the frame was very loose...>
Last edited by thegutterpoet; 12-28-2012 at 11:35 PM.
How am I to remove the allen bolts??? I have tried too much and near to rounded off one of them...should they be tight enough to make even an allen key with a foot pushing down on it not enough to turn it???
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