the regular red fuel stabilizer is supposed to have a new formula that is made to fight corrosion in todays higher ethanol fuels. At least thats what it says on the bottle. I store my bike 4-5 months a year. I have had the bike for 9 years, and I have used the red stabilizer in it every winter with no problems.
Stabil now makes an ethanol treatment and do not reccomend their standard stabilizer for ethanol fuel, personally ive had great luck with startron
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if used per directions on the bottle, it wouldn't be a bad idea to use all the time. Especially if the bike will sit awhile. Also keep the tank full. If you have ethanol in your pump gas, this is even more important.
Every motorcycle winterization check list you read will tell you to fill your tank and add fuel stabilizer and I'll be the first to admit that I follow those instruction on most of my vehicles. The truth is that this is completely false if your were to leave your bike sit for more than three months.
The amount of condensation that could occur in such a small tank would be virtually nothing compared to the amount ethanol separation after the 3 month mark even if taken the most extreme example. Assuming you take a 4 gallon and ride it to almost empty on a very cold day with 100% humidity, park it in your heated garage, and open the fuel cap to check the fuel level, then close it and store it for winter. The total amount of condensation wouldn't equal 0.02 ounces. The amount of ethanol separation would far exceed that on a full 4 gallon tank after 3 months.
So what's the best way? Ideally, store your tank almost empty then add fresh gasoline before your first ride. This of course is only ideal if you plan on actually storing the bike and not starting it over the winter.
I have all the actual mathematical calculations done for supercharged racing engines on jet skis stored from November to March, but the premise is still the same.
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Every motorcycle winterization check list you read will tell you to fill your tank and add fuel stabilizer and I'll be the first to admit that I follow those instruction on most of my vehicles. The truth is that this is completely false if your were to leave your bike sit for more than three months.
The amount of condensation that could occur in such a small tank would be virtually nothing compared to the amount ethanol separation after the 3 month mark even if taken the most extreme example. Assuming you take a 4 gallon and ride it to almost empty on a very cold day with 100% humidity, park it in your heated garage, and open the fuel cap to check the fuel level, then close it and store it for winter. The total amount of condensation wouldn't equal 0.02 ounces. The amount of ethanol separation would far exceed that on a full 4 gallon tank after 3 months.
So what's the best way? Ideally, store your tank almost empty then add fresh gasoline before your first ride. This of course is only ideal if you plan on actually storing the bike and not starting it over the winter.
I have all the actual mathematical calculations done for supercharged racing engines on jet skis stored from November to March, but the premise is still the same.
So if I leave the tank almost empty like you say and create a vacuum in the tank with lets say some kind of suction device, there should be even less condensation?
the thing many are not understanding about the e10 fuels, is that it won't tolerate even tiny amounts of water.. the old mtbe fuels pre2006, could have a decent amount of water, and mix up and still burn. the e10 fuels will NOT mix with even a small amount of moisture in the system especially if the fuel begins to phase separate. That moisture comes from the condensation forming in an empty tank, and even as small an amount as that may be, is it worth it? And as you will have old fuel in the lines anyway, you would be better off storing with a full tank and draining the fuel with stabilizer to use in your lawn mower. The full tank will help inhibit rust too..
but do what ya want. I see zero benefit from storing with an empty tank other than saving a few minutes in the spring when you get to pour new gas in vs. draining the old gas first.. if you even would need to drain it if it has the prescribed amount of fuel stabil added.
In Canada shell 95 octain has no ethenol...that's what I use for storage in the tank
just because the pump doesn't say "contains ethanol" does not mean it is ethanol free. Many states here do not require the stickers on the pumps. If your pump clearly says "ETHANOL FREE" then you are good..
the thing many are not understanding about the e10 fuels, is that it won't tolerate even tiny amounts of water.. the old mtbe fuels pre2006, could have a decent amount of water, and mix up and still burn. the e10 fuels will NOT mix with even a small amount of moisture in the system especially if the fuel begins to phase separate. That moisture comes from the condensation forming in an empty tank, and even as small an amount as that may be, is it worth it? And as you will have old fuel in the lines anyway, you would be better off storing with a full tank and draining the fuel with stabilizer to use in your lawn mower. The full tank will help inhibit rust too..
but do what ya want. I see zero benefit from storing with an empty tank other than saving a few minutes in the spring when you get to pour new gas in vs. draining the old gas first.. if you even would need to drain it if it has the prescribed amount of fuel stabil added.
Like I said, I fill my tank, use stabilizer, and drain the tank in the spring (I put it in my wife's car which makes her happy, hehehe). My main point was for the average person that stores their bike over the winter and plans on letting it sit for 3 month or more and does not want to drain gas in the spring (which is quite a lot of people on this forum), it doesn't make any difference if you fill your tank and use stabilizer or leave your tank empty and save a few bucks.
Or more simply put, a full tank of gas is just as harmful as an empty tank, just for different reasons.
__________________ Current Mods: Full Leo Vince Factory EVO II carbon exhaust, Bauce Racing ECU, Bazzaz Z-Fi + AFM, DID ERV3 520 chain, Renthal 15/47 sprockets, Michelin Pilot Power 3 tires, BMC track filter, HyperPro RSC steering damper, Rizoma RRC rearset, Rizoma Radial Sport mirrors, Fren Tubo SS brake lines, Rizoma front and rear brake reservoirs, Puig DB light smoke windscreen, AGG smog block-off plates, Proton flushmounts, Shermoto Racing levers, Driven D3 grips, Motodynamic smoked integrated tail light, Rizoma chain adjuster, Rizoma gas cap, Rizoma oil filler cap, OEM solo seat cowl, BikeStyle passenger peg plugs, Shogun framesliders, Vortex swingarm spools, Gregg's Customs rear tag cover, Custom fender eliminator, 90 degree valve stems, CutomLED relay, Scala G9, Slowboy reservoir socks, Motul 300V, Engine Ice, NJG custom decal set, Pitbull front and rear stands
noted..regarding the ethanol..as far as leaving the tank empty i would never do that..look at how many people selling older bikes have rusty old fuel tanks (inside) and have to coat them...my 81 CB 750 F tank(32 yrs old) on the inside looks like it just came from the dealer.....no room for condensation means NO rust... if your not shure how good the fuel will be in the spring drain it and use it in the lawn mower...just my opinion.
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