one thing that makes it easier for some, if you don't use one of those plastic tools, is reversing your axle .. put it in from the caliper side. This lines it up automatically as the axle is what holds the caliper in place while you put the rear wheel into place (i like to hold most of the weight with my foot under the wheel-position with left hand, push axle with right). Myself and others do this on race bikes as you have rear wheels off a few times a day on average. You have to reverse the axle adjusters too of course as they fit to the axle one way. just back em all the way out, flip sides, screw em back in.
Thanks for the tips guys... The video was great too. I just needed to refresh my brain! Once I went to work,It all came back... Went together like a charm... No issues at all. Forgot how smooth a brand new tire feels :-)
I think about swapping the axle every time I have to put my rear wheel back on and I end up swearing at the stupid caliper bracket. Greg, by axle adjusters - are you talking about the blocks? I wouldn't think the adjuster bolts would have to get swapped. I'm sure this would all become very clear if I actually tried it, but I'm sitting at work and curious.
You don't have to switch the chain adjusters so the marks are facing inward like Melk Man has said?
I don't see why you would have to do anything else
__________________ mods: woodcraft clipons and frame sliiders, leo vince slip on, 05 header mod, pcv, agg smog block offs and sbk res kit, robby moto sbk rearsets, 520 -1+2 renthal.set up, bauce racing ecu flash, ebc hh pads, and some small cosmetic stuff.
you DO have to switch the axle adjusters guys. One end has a flat retaining thing. The other adjuster is flat (the one that the washer and large nut go on). You can just take the 12mm nylock nut off the back of the adjusting bolt, or just use the allen wrench to back the bolts all the way out of the swing arm and reverse the adjusters.. but you do need to swap the adjusters if you want to revers the axle.
this is the simplest way to help with the caliper when changing wheels.
BUT.. having someone fix the caliper to the adjuster (once you figure out which way you want the axle to go) makes life WAY easier. I had a welder weld the adjuster to the adjuster.. it must be PERFECT or the axle will be hard to slide, and the adjuster bolt will not line up at the back of the swingarm well. witchcraft racing and a couple other places for $50 i think , will drill/remove metal that is in way/bolt the adjuster to the caliper. Fast Frank racing will sell for $99 1/2 of the caliper and adjuster ready to go.. you just put the piston side of the caliper into this piece and you are ready to go instead of sending your parts in..
CAPTIVE SPACERS are sweet. and there are 2 kinds. One requires you to remove your current bearings and replace with the spacer/new bearing (as you can't slide the captive spacer into your current bearing or the axle won't fit ). http://shop.fastfrankracing.com/R6-R...Set-R6Rcap.htm sells SWEET captive spacers that simply slide into YOUR SEALS! no new bearings needed. I did notice you must fiddle a little bit with how far into the hub the rubber seal is to ensure there isn't too much drag, but once set, it REALLY speeds up wheel changes. I think they are $69 a set, and i got em anodized in black.
). 
Linear Mode
