I still love her....but a cold start on these bikes are pathetic : /

[R6_350z]

Originally Posted by Blade-Brown

This dude above is right...the colder it gets, the more my 09 starts and sounds like a huge turd

It dipped into the 40's last night here in Arizona (from the 80's last week ugh) which may the coldest it has gotten this year, and upon cold start today, she took about 5 seconds to turn over and then just sounded/looked pathetic. The bike fires right up after it's been initially started for the first time. She just doesn't like getting out of bed I guess

In addition to that, for the first time ever, I noticed a "sticky throttle" in which I'm assuming was attributed to the cold. I know since 06, Yamaha has been using the cable-less "fly by wire" throttle (YCC-T = Yamaha Chip Controlled Throttle) so there is no direct physical connection between the throttle at your hand and the throttle bodies. What I experienced was that upon letting off the throttle to clutch in and shift, the throttle/tube would either stick or even jump forward/up but not snap/roll back as it should. This happened for the first 15 minutes of the ride (letting off the throttle between shifts would rev/shoot up the rpms) and then eventually it started rolling back/functioning properly as it should. It was just a little scary to see that this chit happens...I don't feel like doing a wheelie into a curb when I'm merely trying to shift all because the throttle tube is sticky from the cold (WTF?)

38 degrees this morning bike started within a second or 2 idled normally and she was sitting there for 2 days..dont know what it is but your bike isnt running right bro

[Blade-Brown]

Originally Posted by R6_350z

38 degrees this morning bike started within a second or 2 idled normally and she was sitting there for 2 days..dont know what it is but your bike isnt running right bro

Thanks man. When yours started, did it feel like a strong start? As in, when it cranked over, did it "fire" up to say 2000rpm and cold choke down eventually? Or limp up and warm at the normal operating idle of say 1400-1200rpm? I'm gonnna exchange this cyclegear battery for a brand new one. I have a feeling it's the culprit.

[Mario J]

I never had a problem starting my bike --- Even after 40k+ miles.

[aleithauser]

Its 27* degrees out and I can go out and fire mine up within a second or two. Cold engines start harder than warm engines bro, just the way it is.

[Blade-Brown]

Originally Posted by aleithauser

Its 27* degrees out and I can go out and fire mine up within a second or two. Cold engines start harder than warm engines bro, just the way it is.

In addition, HIGH compression engines (like ours 13:1:1) start harder than lower compression engines as well...I understand the concept. I think my 3 month old cyclegear "Megaboost" lifetime warranty replacement battery is the culprit..it states it's the same specs as the OEM Yuasa...but I have a hunch the cranking amps/power is not as strong as it claims.

[bruiser]

Originally Posted by Blade-Brown

Thanks man. I'm at 7,200 miles as of current. How hard/invasive is the spark plug change? Do I need to lift/pull the tank etc? Do you recommend staying with the OEM plugs as a replacement? How involved is the removal of the AIS system? I assume this system was put in place for pollution/emission control and most likely just hinders performance eh?

To everyone else, I will definitely have cyclegear load test and top off/replace my battery and I'll post up what I find!

Ok, back to the chit-talking, this thread is kinda getting boring

Not hard, Pull the tank(completely for an easier time), Pull the air box off, unplug and pull the coils and use a 3-6'' extension and wiggle socket and repeat for each one, pull the coils one at a time and make sure to put back where that came from, Also make sure they get pushed ALL the Way down you will hear/feel a solid click or pop noise when they are seated.

the AIS is easy to remove, i used and angled pair of needle nose pliers for the hose clamps

[R6_350z]

Originally Posted by Blade-Brown

Thanks man. When yours started, did it feel like a strong start? As in, when it cranked over, did it "fire" up to say 2000rpm and cold choke down eventually? Or limp up and warm at the normal operating idle of say 1400-1200rpm? I'm gonnna exchange this cyclegear battery for a brand new one. I have a feeling it's the culprit.

started normal bro nice and strong and went straight to 2k and simmered down once my bike temp got to 110 down to about 1.5rpm's...bike has 26k stock battery with all my mods that have been on for years

[Blade-Brown]

Originally Posted by R6_350z

started normal bro nice and strong and went straight to 2k and simmered down once my bike temp got to 110 down to about 1.5rpm's...bike has 26k stock battery with all my mods that have been on for years

And THAT'S what I expect a normal cold start to look like....I'll swap the battery and post back

[Blade-Brown]

Ok so I called cyclegear to have them put a new CTZ10S MegaBoost replacement on the charger so it's topped off/fully charged when I pick it up tonight at 6pm. Question, the guy said that the batterys come ~80% charged. Does that sound right? Is 6hrs enough time to totally top the battery off? Sorry for my ignorance, I'm not savvy on how motorcycle charging works etc

http://www.cyclegear.com/eng/product...ies/web1004456

[Ridyn]

Started my bike today for the first time all week, took 2 seconds and idled fine. It's been hitting low 20's at night too and my garage isn't climate controlled.