It's been a while since I updated this thread.* I have done a few nickel and dime items and have continued working on the rearsets and linkage layouts:
First, the rear brake linkage set-up:
I cut off the brake pedal:
Made a tab for the linkage:
Shaped, drilled and welded the tab to the brake pedal clamp:
Cleaned it up a bit (had to grind off the rest of the chrome for paint eventually):
Here it is installed with the link attached:
...but why, you ask, did I use a shackle with a removable pin instead of a heim joint on the front joint?
Well, I'm glad you asked!* The kick starter cant be used with the rearsets in their normal position:
...so I made it so you fold the peg, and disconnect the linkage (without tools) and flip the brake pedal out of the way, and Voila!* The kicker* is functional!
Next, the shifter side:
As I mentioned before, the shifter that was included in the set pointed up, but this would cause issues with the linkage,
...so Kris Richardson from Old School Speed sent me a shifter that pointed down:
I drilled off the original ball joint from the shifter link:
And here it is...
Finally, the rearset brackets needed to be trimmed down to get rid of the excess:
With only an angle grinder and a bench grinder....not too bad, if I say so myself:
and here it is installed:
I need to get some 1 inch spacers made out of 1-1/4" round stock to replace the sockets I have between the brackets and the pegs, and I need to find some place to counter bore the mounting holes so the bolt heads will sit in a bit, then I can paint them.
__________________
Dear SpeedTV,
I, for one, will be extremely happy when you finally make the transition to a main line sports channel.
.....it will mark the end of your network pretending to be a motorsports channel.
Thank you for finally realizing what the rest of us already knew.
And after I made the tray, and got everything mounted and laid out the wiring:
I did have to lengthen the cable from the starter to the starter relay, and make a new negative batt cable, so I had to figure out how to crimp a 6 gauge wire terminal without spending a bunch of money on a crimper.* So I used my AMP crimper in the 10 gauge slot to start the crimp, then finished the crimp in a vise.* Then flowed solder into the crimp for a complete connection.* Ugly, yes, but 100% connected:
This is where all the electrical components used to be, behind the side panels:
...and this is how it looks, now:
Tune in next time when this gauge cluster get fluster chucked! ...or, Fun with LED's
__________________
Dear SpeedTV,
I, for one, will be extremely happy when you finally make the transition to a main line sports channel.
.....it will mark the end of your network pretending to be a motorsports channel.
Thank you for finally realizing what the rest of us already knew.
...so the original cluster is an abomination, IMO, so I gutted it and painted the gauges (mentioned in a previous post). I still wanted the indicator lights, so I took the inside housing and flipped it upside down:
Then I cut a plate out:
and mounted it on the housing:
One of the light socket holes was unused, so I used it as a mounting point:
Drilled holes for the LED's and painted it black:
And done!
__________________
Dear SpeedTV,
I, for one, will be extremely happy when you finally make the transition to a main line sports channel.
.....it will mark the end of your network pretending to be a motorsports channel.
Thank you for finally realizing what the rest of us already knew.
These cheap Chinese RFY shocks were included in the pile-o-parts I got with the bike.
CrazyPJ, from one of the Cafe racer forums is the only person that I have found that has rebuilt these things, and he states that they are not bad, but out of the box, they don't have enough oil, or Nitrogen. And I found that to be the case with mine...
....so it's "service time". And a HUGE thanks to PJ for answering my few...OK, a dozen....questions. Between PJ's help and the following video from Youtube, I was ready to tackle a set of shocks for the first time.
First, I bough an adjustable pin spanner wrench I found on eBay for 6 bucks (also good for my angle grinder)
Next, I need a spring compressor..which I don't have...but I do have a bead breaker on my tire machine:
..and the center stand that was removed from the GS...
...and some flat stock...and a vise...
Some creative use of a tie down to stabilize it, and now it's a make shift spring compressor:
With the spring off and the seal retainer removed (with the pin spanner wrench) I cut an 8" piece of tubing off of an old porch swing this is in the scrap heap. With the spring seats, a couple of washers and the shock shaft nut, I used the tubing as a puller to pull the shaft seal.
Here it is disassembled:
To reassemble, I followed the youtube video, with a few small modifications for the differences in design. In Crazy PJ's build, he drilled and tapped the shock body to install a bleed screw in this spot:
I didn't have a way to counter bore the hole to accept an o-ring, so I didn't do it. It isn't necessary, but it is a great idea, and allows you to get every bit of air out of the shock.
Here they are re-assembled. I took them to a tire store and had them charge them with 75 psi of Nitrogen.
Job done. Oh, I used 10 wt fork oil. We'll see how well it works. I might need to go up or down in weight.
__________________
Dear SpeedTV,
I, for one, will be extremely happy when you finally make the transition to a main line sports channel.
.....it will mark the end of your network pretending to be a motorsports channel.
Thank you for finally realizing what the rest of us already knew.
Linear Mode
