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Flash Tune Interface - Review - FAQ

484K views 3K replies 180 participants last post by  980ti 
#1 · (Edited)
WARNING

FlashTune's new owners, decided to release an update that will destroy the old gold box flash interface. I can only assume they thought it was no longer profitable so they choose to eliminate all the boxes currently in the market.

Just do a search on selfDestructFTDI() the code they used to purposely brick current devices. Once this came out they even tried to rename the routine to happyinterface() to try and hide thise. More here.

If your old flash interface still works, do NOT connect it to the internet, or the let the FlashTune software update. People are currently working on a way to unbrick these devices, but until then, safest bet is to use older offline versions of the software.

With these kind of practices, I will no longer answer questions about FlashTune. However I'll be happy to help people get old software working though so they can continue to use the hardware they bought.

Alternatives to FlashTune

You have other options to flash your R6 / R1 ECUs.

I suggest you look into Woolich Racing before making a purchase with FlashTune.




Since this thread has gotten huge, I'm going to try and have a list of important posts you should also read, that are buried in pages of info here.

- Troubleshooting - Connection Issues - Other Issues - Backing up your software.
- Those with Immobilizers read this
- 2012 ECU Flash List

- Software 1.5.4.0 changes
- Software 2.0.0.1 is out!


- Timing Recommendations.
- My Latest Map.

Coupon code for 10% off any products from flash-tune: EFJ124680

-Jamie M.



Mods Please do NOT sticky this!
I will add this into my existing FAQ when it's ready, we have enough clutter at the top of the forum already.

Ok so I've had some time messing around with my Flash-Tune flash interface. I've decided to start this thread to openly discuss some of the pros and cons, recommendations, and thoughts on the interface. I will eventually add this into my FAQ when I'm done (In a much revised manner).

Lets first go over some of the restrictions, and maps that are currently on the R6. All the maps I'm posting are for the 06-07 models, as I have an 07. The 08+ are actually quite a bit more restrictive though. (06-07 and 08-12 TPS maps compared here.)

This is the stock throttle map:

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This is the "race" throttle map, that is included with the software (Should be similar to the YEC). You can edit this map to be any values you want:

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The changes to the map seem mild, but it actually makes a noticeable difference. I was actually surprised to see the 06-07 R6 had a much less restrictive throttle map from the factory than the R1s and the 08+ R6.

This is the stock ECU timing, all values BTDC:

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These are the values they recommend and supply for bikes running 91+ octane fuel.

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I believe these timing advances are still a little on the conservative side, however for good reason. The quality of fuels today is all over the map, with little to no consistency. Even with these bikes having a knock sensor, detonation at the higher end of the RPM band could be catastrophic.

According to the "stock" flash file, the secondary injectors are actually not used as much as I would have thought.

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Again, this is "their" recommendation, included, which increase the proportion of the secondary injectors:

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6
#2 · (Edited)
Now I will admit, just my first impression of the device was not very good. A lack of documentation and software is my issue. First of all there is no documentation, no online help, no help files, and no software included at all. You can download the software, however, you must be connected to the internet to complete the install. The install file you download is only a ~ 400 kbs, then it downloads 22 MB. THen on top of this, the install purposely "hides" the program on your computer to try and prevent you from locating the files to even "create" an offline backup of this software. Perhaps I'm overly paranoid, but after shelling out the money for something that is somewhat "untested" I want to be sure I can still use this device even if the company goes under, or their web site goes off line. I was able to procure an off line version of the program, which is the only reason I did not return the device before even trying it.

This advice has tons of potential to anyone willing to take the time to adjust and tweak it as needed. However I believe they are more marketing this towards people who just want to import a Power Commmander map and are happy enough with a "in the ball park" tune. As we all know, downloaded maps are not an ideal setup.

Now I actually typed up a list of questions that I had and called Flash-Tune to ask them. After a couple phone calls I believe I reasonably understand how this thing works, and what the settings do, despite a complete lack of documentation.

First lets start with the main screen, which is probably all most users would ever use.

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Select ECU Base Map File - These are maps you've created, and maps they include. The include the stock ECM file, a pump gas, 91+ pump gas, and maps for two different types of race fuels.

Set YCC-T Throttle Options - This allows you to choose the stock throttle map, or the "race" map. The race throttle map can be edditted.

Reduce Engine Braking - This reduces the braking effect that letting all the throttle has. The max setting just about makes the bike feel like it's coasting when you letting off the throttle rather than slowing down quickly. This can take some getting used to, as reduced engine braking can help prevent unsettling the suspension in the curves, however it's amazing how much you can rely on the engine braking to slow you down.

High Load (TPS) FUel Map Bias - This is where you choose how soon the bike switches to the high load map. When you move to the right of "stock" it will change to a percentage. This percentage is a TPS value at which the high load map takes over. At stock this point can be random, as it's a calculated value. Going all the way to the left will result in only the "low load" map being used, which is NOT recommended. Going full right will actually disable the O2 sensor, and the low load map. This means the high load map is being used all the time.

Import Power Commander 3 or 5 Fuel Table - This is where you can import a power commander map into the ECM. This only changes the high load map. The low load map remains untouched. The software actually does a pretty good job of converting the maps over and blending the values into the high load maps from what I've seen so far.

Cooling Fan - This lets you change the point at which your cooling fan turns on.

YCC-I Intake - Lets you adjust the RPM for the YCC Intake. (08+ models)

Quickshifter - This is for enabling the quick shifter on the ECM. (Additonal parts and harness required)

US Model - I believe this actually has to do with the immobilizer, but I need to verify this!

Disable EXUP - Disables the EXUP valve.

RevLimiter - Adjust the rev limiter RPM.

Idle Speed - Adjust the idle speed.

Once you have selected the options, "Flash Wizard" walks you through the process of flashing. These steps must be performed in the correct order.

-Disconnect both connectors from the ECM
-Plug flash interface into the computer
-Connect the device to a 12 volt power supply
-Plug flash interface into the ECU.
-Click Ok
-Flashing takes 3-5 minutes.

Ok across the top you'll notice the drop down box that says "Viewing", this is where you can go to edit the maps prior to flashing. Again since there is no documentation and the titles are less than meaningful, I had to rely on my phone discussion with Flash Tune.

Fuel Map Load vs RPM - This is the low load fuel map.

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Fuel TPS vs RPM - This is the high load fuel map.

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On both these maps, you can select areas to increase or decrease. There is also a "blend" feature similar to using the Bazzaz software, however from the little I've tried it, it works much better. Editting these maps is similar to editting a map in the Power Commander or Bazzaz software. At the top you can change from viewing "actual value" to view as a percentage, which will let you see things in a format consistent with the Power Commander and Bazzaz software (viewing percentages of increase or decrease over stock).

Ignition Timing deg BTDC - This one is actaully self explainatory, just ignition timing. Be extremely careful when modifing values in here, I would not recommend making changes with a complete understanding of what you are doing. I would strongly recommend you use a pre-set map that included with the software.

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Injector Proportioning - This is the proportioning between the primary and secondary injectors.

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YCC-T Throttle By Wire - This is the throttle map. RPM values on the left, TPS values across the top, the chart is what the bike is actually doing.

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#68 ·
Quickshifter - This is for enabling the quick shifter on the ECM. (Additonal parts and harness required)

US Model - I believe this actually has to do with the immobilizer, but I need to verify this!
Just a couple things to edit in your OP.

The "US Model" is for disabling the immobilizer. If you have a Canadian or Euro (basically NON-US bike) and you DON'T remove the checkmark from this box, your bike WILL NOT START after you flash it.

And just so I'm perfectly clear, THERE IS NO WAY TO KEEP THE IMMOBILIZER FUNCTION ON YOUR BIKE IF YOU FLASH IT! My friend thought he could just leave "US" checked so he could keep his immobilizer function, WRONG. That's not how it works. If you have a non-US bike you MUST uncheck the box!

And where you say "Quickshifter - This is for enabling the quick shifter on the ECM. (Additonal parts and harness required)" that's not entirely correct. If you have say a Dynojet quick shifter, you connect one wire from the quick shifter to ground, and the other wire to Pin 21 on the small ECU connector and BOOM, the quickshifter works flawless, no harness to buy, no additional hardware. Super awesome PER GEAR adjustable delay quick shifter that CUTS ALL 8 INJECTORS! WOOT!

-Jamie M.
 
#3 · (Edited)
As for using the device it's pretty straight forward. However first realize there are some risks. You are flashing to the memory of the ECM, and should something go wrong, you may have a completely destroyed, unusable ECM. This is not the time to use an unreliable machine. Also the flash interface comes with alligator clips on the end for you to clip to the battery for a 12+ volt supply. I'm going to strongly recommend you go ahead and use a regular 2-wire connector. Most bikes use standard 2-wire trailer plugs for battery tenders. This is a perfect way to hook the interface into a power source without worrying about an alligator clip jumping off the battery mid flash (possibly destroying your ECM).



As for getting to the ECM the only thing you need to do is remove the seat, nothing else needs to be removed.

 
#4 · (Edited)
Ok I tried several different things while flashing my ECM, and came up with what worked best for me. First thing I did was take my current PCV map, along with the AT trims and accept all the trims. Now I only took the 3RD gear map, as this is generally what is recommended tuning with when using a YEC ECM. Using all my previous dyno runs, I manually leaned out the spot in the map where I had a known "false positive" lean area. This had to be leaned out because the AT suggests adding so much fuel to that spot (~5000-6000 RPM). I also richened up two weird "leaner" humps that I found in every run I made (~10000-11000 and ~13000-14000). The final result was the map I imported into the flash tune software. One thing to note here though, if your PCV map has maps for each gear, the flash tune software only uses the 1st gear map, so you will need to transfer the 3rd gear map to 1st to make sure it is imported into the flash tune software.

I did use the PumpGas91+ for some increased timing, and the changes to the injector proportioning map. YCC-T Throttle options, obviously I selected "Race" settings. For engine braking, I found for the street I prefer stock settings.

For the high load map bias, I actually chose to entirely disable the low load fuel map and O2 sensor. For one with my AT it is always changing my map to achieve the settings I set, so it is constantly making changes while the bike is busy flipping between two different maps.

I don't see any point to turning on the cooling fans sooner, so I left those alone. I also left the rev limiter alone, I do NOT recommend changing this.

I did zero out all the trims and all fuel maps on my PCV and AT.

After the flash I did notice I expierence the same increased idle, I've read many complaints about. It's not out of control, but your idle will increase with the "race" throttle map. I attempted to set the idle speed using the options to do so and reflash, however the idle will still not idle at the point you set. Generally it seems the bike will idle 200-300 RPM higher than whatever you choose under idle speed.

However I will say the bike feels much better after the flash. It feels like it pulls harder. However to prevent any sort of placebo effect, I plan on making a few passes at the local track to try and quantify any changes or improvements (as soon as it warms up some). I did try a few hard launches and the bike didn't want to bog down anymore when I wasn't perfect with slipping the clutch.

I will say so far, this setup seems to be working very well. After checking the trim section in my AT, I'm primarily getting 0-4% changes recommended, but the majority of the chart is 0s so far. Meaning with the bike not flipping back and forth between maps seems to be working quite well.
 
#5 · (Edited)
So who is this recommended for? I would say anyone could use this, beginners are going to have a bit of a learning curve. This has several advantages over a Power Commander (and Bazzaz for that matter).

Advantages -

-No extra devices, or wiring to install or run.
-Reduced Weight (not that a PCV is heavy)
-Controls all 8 injectors (unlike the PCV only doing 4, without the SFM) (Bazzaz does all 8)
-Install is much easier
-Frees up throttle restrictions.
-Allows increase in ignition timing.
-Supports quick shifter
-More tuneability

Disadvantages -

-Allows changes that could be dangerous.
-Flashing anything can be potentially risky. (Reasonably safe, but should something go wrong you could lose an ECM)
-More tuning options can result in a steeper learning curve to new users
-Complete lack of documentation, or help files from manufacturer. (At least the folks at Flash Tune are willing to help answer questions when you call them)
-Attempts to "hide" program to prevent the user from backing up software.
-Users are essentially the beta testers of a device that is still under development.

Despite all the risks, the advantages are very clear. However users must realize that just importing a Power Commander map won't result in a perfect running bike. This is just like a Power Commander or Bazzaz unit, you must tune it to your exact bike, a downloaded map won't be right.
 
#7 ·
Wow, thanks so much man :) I just ordered the flashing interface for my GF's 09 R6 and a few other friends that want me to flash their bikes. I've made my autotune "portable" so I can swap it between their bikes and make a full 3rd gear map to dump into the ECU :)

Your writeups are amazing!!! Thanks again.

I will post up results when I flash my GF's bike and other peoples as well.

One question, with the throttle blade map, why does it not open 100% at the lower RPM's when at WOT?

-Jamie M.
 
#13 ·
One question, with the throttle blade map, why does it not open 100% at the lower RPM's when at WOT?

-Jamie M.
You can change the values if you wish. I've been really sick this past week so I haven't gotten to mess with it much. Those are the values they recommend, I'm assuming its a copy of the YEC map?
 
#8 ·
So you could flash a friends ecm and it would be the same as if they bought it?
 
#9 · (Edited)
You got it! With the flash interface you can flash any R6 from 2006 to 2011 and any 2007 or 2008 R1 :)

Only problem is, if they did major mods (full system, etc.) they'd have to come back to YOU for a tune, as most dyno shops don't have the interface to update the map in the ECU.

EDIT: In case that last sentence doesn't make sense. If they did a major mod and need re-tuning, they could go to a dyno shop and they would make him a power commander map file. He brings his bike and that map file to you (or just his ECU) and you flash that power commander map into the ECU to correct the tuning ;)

-Jamie M.
 
#10 ·
So basically I could get this and then have it pay for it self..
I've been reading a lot about them lately and plan to have mine flashed. I just wanna learn more about tunning before I pull the trigger.
 
#11 ·
Yes! You could have it paid for by just flashing two friends bikes ;)

I haven't even received mine yet and I've already got it paid for twice over just on waiting list deposits! :D

Don't let the tuning scare you. It's got some really safe default maps and values in it. Plug in, click flash, done. As long as you're using minimum 91 octane (CAN/USA) fuel you're good to go!

-Jamie M.
 
#12 ·
That's it I'm getting it. A solid investment, can't pass that up lol.
I'm not scared of tunning, I wanna know all the terminology and and how the settings affect things. My good friend is pretty good at tunning cars and he said he would help out.
 
#22 ·
i run a PC and ignition module on my flashed bike (not on the YEC kit box bike). Make changes to fuel and ignition timing right on the pc software. Never had a need to make changes once it was set right the first time, and racin at the front.. Yes, it would be nice to make changes but i fear many would make changes that could/would do more harm than good and some riders wouldn't know if it was better or worse.. I mean does a track day guy really need to be concerned if the v-stacks of his 08+ bike should open 500rpm sooner or later??? LOL
 
#16 ·
I'm.currently running my PCV only for the AT capabilities. If you aren't running an AT (not a Bazzaz AT) I don't see the point in running both. They would both be doing the same exact thing.

If the rumors are true and they will be adding an "AT" function to this interface I will probably do away with my PCV and AT.

Since flashing my ECM I am running a zeroed map on my PCV.

This is only available for the 06+ R6.
 
#17 · (Edited)
If the rumors are true and they will be adding an "AT" function to this interface I will probably do away with my PCV and AT.
:toocool: WHEN!? Bring it! I was going to buy a PCV and AT to create the map for my current Flash-Tune but if there a plans in place for that i'll hold off!:)

Also just in regards to the "US Model" option my first reflash i didn't disable this and my bike refused to start but let out and almighty backfire.... Disabled this option and fired up straight away.... Fairly certain this is an imobiliser type option.... My bike is Australian Spec 2010 R6.

Greatly Appreciate your hard efforts in answering alot of the questions i had in the back of my mind!

Cheers!
 
#19 ·
It can pay for itself why not get it lol?
 
#20 ·
If you can find people who want their ECM flashed, I haven't really had a lot of interest from people so far. Plus there is some risk involved with flashing ECMs. Also its nice to have the interface to make changes as necessary.
 
#25 ·
They pushed down a new update. The engine braking now has quite a bit more adjustability and new options. They also changed the idle control, you can fine tune it manually now, as well as try and force a target RPM, however it's still not quite right. They are improving the idle situation, but it still has some way to go. I'll try and get some new screen shots and new thoughts up soon.

I've been doing lots of flashing lately and monitoring using the PCV and AutoTune, hopefully should result in a better tune. Still trying lots of things though.
 
#26 ·
I also will note, my small changes being suggested by the AutoTune was short lived. I've noticed some very healthy changes showing up as being recommended. Going to try and play with it some more, but that map that I originally loaded had literally thousands of miles on it so if a "set tune" was ideal, it should have already arrived at those results. I don't foresee me being able to do away with the AutoTune.
 
#27 ·
Ohioyj. just curious, do you do tunes as a job? Sound like you know a lot about it. Where would be a good place or way to learn about tuning? I have a friend that learned about it at uti, but I wanna know more specifics than what he has told me.

Thanks :cheers:
 
#29 ·
Ohhhh just got my hardware!



Sucks how the software buries itself on your system!!! lol.

I've already made a few maps! I have a 94+ map with 6 degree ignition advance up high, also tweaked the fly by wire throttle numbers a bit.

I also made a "super fuel saving" map that retards the ignition timing a bit and lets you run 87 octane fuel!!! :)

Once I dial the maps in using my Autotune I'll post them up so peeps can try them out :D

And Ohio, and other peeps out there. What's the highest octane common fuel you can get at the pump? Around here it's Sunoco 94 with 10% ethanol :( (R+M/2 or AKI).

-Jamie M.
 
#30 ·
Here the best we get is 93 with 10% ethanol, a good number of places only cary 91 with 10% ethanol
 
#32 · (Edited)
** Update:
So far risks of actually "killing" an ECM seem pretty low. I've run into a couple failed flashes, and they are cured simply by reflashing the ECM. However, realize as they update this software sometimes things take a step backwards, such as the idle fiasco that is still going on. Realize you are a beta tester.

I'm not sure if I made it clear enough, there are some risks with flashing your ECM.

There seem to be some R1s particularly which have not gone so well with the flash. There are some issues mentioned elsewhere, but here is one thread you should read. Update on the issue. - (It has been resolved)

When flashing your ECM, it is possible to destroy it. Those who have had the flash issues, have not been able to just flash back to stock.

Second this device is still being developed, and you are essentially "Beta" testers. Which means you will go through the good and the bad, as things are worked out.

We are essentially the "early adopters", and there is a lot of good things you can do with this device. So far after many flashes, I have had all positive results. Your results may vary, and you definitely need to think of the liability issues if you plan on flashing other peoples ECM to recoup some of your costs.
 
#33 · (Edited)
Hey OhioYJ, I figured I would post this in the thread instead of via PM.

So, my GF came over with her 09 R6 all excited for a flash. She didn't want to drive around with my autotune plugged in so I was pretty limited with what I could/wanted to change. One of her goals with the flash was to get rid of the 60% throttle restriction and also to save money on gas.

She's got a BMC race air filter, and Akrapovic slip-on with the baffle removed.

I didn't want to come up with a lean cruise map for it without having the autotune on there for protection, but what I COULD do is make it run on "regular" (87 octane AKI) gas!!! :)

I made a map to pull out 4 degrees of timing across the map to make up for the lower octane fuel. There was still some 91 in her tank so figured I'd flash the map before I changed fuels and just make sure everything was working good first.

After I flashed it, one thing I did notice, especially at high RPM in 3rd, is when I let off the throttle, there was almost NO engine braking at all, I had to get on the brakes to really slow me down :(. I left ALL of the engine braking settings at factory default, so couldn't understand WTF was going on! It was like the bike wanted to drive away by itself when I let off the throttle sometimes :(

I looked at the map again, specifically the fly by wire throttle map, and noticed that when the grip was at 0% throttle, the bike was adding as much as 6% throttle or MORE if the throttle wasn't COMPLETELY at 0% :( (circled on the map in red below):



I also noticed when I reduced the throttle from high RPM and was coasting down, when I applied the throttle to stop the deceleration and try and drive at an even speed, once I levelled it off it would then try and keep accelerating slightly (circled in purple above). I fixed this by making the throttle response more linear to the actual grip position instead of increasing it by RPM at the lower throttle numbers (16% throttle and under). Works SWEEET now :)



Here is the stock throttle map, just for comparison:



Now, when I was doing some testing I was flashing REALLY whacked out values in some places, just to make sure the flash was actually "sticking" to the ECU. What I found out is that for some strange reason, my GF's bike never gets to the "100%" TPS column in the fly by wire throttle. So, in the above map, you can see I've copied the 100% column to the 94% column and it works absolutely perfect now :D It's probably a TPS adjustment issue, but makes absolutely no difference now ;)

Her fuel light came on around this time so it was time to try some 87!!! :eek:

I double confirmed I was running the map with the timing 4 degrees retarded, filled her up with 87 and took her for a rip. I let the engine get nice and hot and tucked my go-pro between the frame and the side of the cylinder head and ran some 6th gear super low RPM full throttle roll-on's, no chugging, no pinging :) Then did some high RPM WOT runs in 3rd, with all the wind noise it was hard to tell if the engine was making any funny noises but DAMN does it pull like a missile! :D

I felt confident that everything was dialed in and handed it over to my GF to take for a rip. She was gone a lot longer than I expected, but when she finally came back, grin from ear to ear! She said she unintentionally brought the front up in 2nd gear, UNINTENTIONALLY! lol. She said it was an absolute monster "in the boonies", but still controllable "around town".

That's what I like to hear :D

So, here is the map (right click, save target as): http://likestuff.globat.com/r6/2012-05-04-FlashTune/08-11 R6 PumpGas87 Quick TAFB.ftm

This map is built, by hand, FROM THE STOCK ECU map. The changes include: four degrees retarded timing for use with 87 octane fuel, simulated quick turn race throttle.

I think that's it. These are the settings I used when I flashed her bike (her's is a Canadian R6 so that's why the US box is unchecked, also her EXUP is long gone due to her Akrapovic slip-on so I checked to disable EXUP as well).



If she's willing to lend me her bike more often I'll make some more maps for MORE POWER instead of CHEAPER FUEL, lol, and tune them with my autotune and post them up.

-Jamie M.
 
#34 ·
Interesting, I wonder where those weird throttle values came from?

Just flashed some new changes to my map but haven't gotten to try it out yet.

Ran at the drag strip yesterday, despite quite a bit of technical difficulties on the track part, didn't even get a time slip for the first run, I did pick up a pretty solid 1 MPH it seems. Can't really use my time as an indicator, as I suck at launching the bike, not willing to sacrifice my clutch, and gained a little weight since I last went (also saying something for still having a higher MPH, especially on a hotter day than last time).
 
#35 ·
Interesting, I wonder where those weird throttle values came from?
I re-downloaded the Flash-Tune software from scratch, just to make sure it wasn't anything I did.

I can confirm both the 6% in the 0% column, plus the progressive RPM/throttle "creep" at low throttle settings ARE IN ALL OF THEIR MAPS.

Well, I just checked the 06-07R6 91+ map and it's in there, as well as in the 08-11 91+ map :(

If you're having engine braking issues and you have all the engine braking settings set to 0, this is probably the cause ;)

Glad to hear you got to try her out!! :D Yeah, on the drag strip, super hard to compare runs. I'd say the higher MPH is a sign of MORE POWER but a crappier launch :D

What I do, is with my tank mounted camera, is put it in 3rd gear, at 5,000rpm exactly, snap it right to 100% throttle and using the video, time how long it takes to hit the rev limiter. That's my "dyno" lol. I always do it on the exact same spot/stretch of road so it should be a good comparison.

-Jamie M.
 
#36 ·
Interesting, you are correct sir its on my maps too (not that I thought you were making it up). I haven't experienced any side effects that I've noticed though with it. The other maps do by default make changes to the engine braking, I also knock those back down to 0%.

As usual apparently I'm only looking at the upper end of things.
 
#37 ·
Props to Flash Tune! Just heard from one of the guys having problems with the R1, Chris from FlashTune sent out a new ECM to the guy, it arrived quickly. Turns out this particular problem was another issue (so the bike is fixed). It's definitely good to see Flash Tune is being very customer oriented, and good customer service.

I know personally I've called them a couple times, been very helpful. and answered any question I've asked. Even if the sales person didn't know the answer, they found out for me.

I will still be leaving my warning in place, as flashing any device can be dangerous, and this product is still be developed. However at this point, I would say Flash Tune is an excellent company to deal with.
 
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