Thread updates. Basically ripped these posts off of their separate threads. Hit the link beside each to see the original thread.
Renthal 50mm Clipons + Renthal Hard Grips (LINK)
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I picked up a used set of 50mm Renthal clipons.
Obviously I needed to drop the fork tubes down through the triple clamp, so I proceeded to take the front end apart. All was well until I tried to put the forks back up into position. Up to this point I had kept the front wheel on, but there was no way I was getting the forks back into position with the wheel on. So brakes and the wheel come off.
Got everything buttoned back up, forks back to proper height.
I ended up snapping the little ratchet mechanism for the clutch. I was trying to bend it to clearance the clipon bracket. I was able to bend it to at least hold the clutch adjuster from spinning.
I had to remove the guide/brake res mount to clear the RH clipon. Now i've just ziptied the cables up so they don't rub on the fairing stay.
Took out quite a bit of fluid from the master. It was overfilled by the dealer when I got it checked over upon taking ownership a few years ago.
Also made a custom mount for it. Ended up using a MTB reflector mount, part of an MTB speedo mount, and some spare hardware. Lots of trial and error to get it sitting straight without stressing the line.
I hadn't drilled a hole in the LH clipon to mount the switch, and I had it all set up already, so just decided to ziptie it to the front. It'll fit in the nose nicely. Too much of a PITA to unhook and remove, just to put it back next year. Bike is track only this year to save on insurance. Next year i'll get it mounted up for the street.
Got some Renthal Hard grips on there as well. Dish soap and water in a spray bottle. Along with a little heat and elbow grease, they slide right on, and then dry as if they were glued on.
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Found a few problems when checking for steering clearance.
-First off, the throttle tubes were hitting the ram air covers, so I knew I had to rotate them out of the way.
--The cables weren't long enough, so I had to take apart the entire RH clipon, remove the throttle cables, and feed everything through behind the fork tube.
-Then, the brake line was hitting the ram air cover at close to full RH lock.
--I hammered a socket on the steering stop, which makes it stop just before the line hits.
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Also deleted my LH fan, as it was broken anyways. (Didn't spin up with the RH one. The drive motor is bad)
Also, tonight I got my used Woodcraft cut sliders mounted up and cut a hole in my track fairings for it. 3 cuts and some grinding later and it fit. Not the cleanest job, but clean enough for track. Also had to take a little off of the other side to clear the slider.
And I pulled my chain guard and horn.
Custom Shark fin / Toe guard. (LINK)
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I printed out a picture of the GYTR guard, used some trial and error with sizing of the image, and eventually got a template printed out.
Traced it onto a cutting board from Canadian Tire ($5), and then cut it out with the band saw. Planed the top edge afterwords. Did some sanding to clean it up.
Went to Canadian Tire to pick up some SS hardware, including lock washers. Marked out the holes and drilled. Test fit.
Krylon Fusion Satin Black (drying in the house):
Done.
Agg block off plates. (LINK)
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Ordered some blockoff plates from Agg.
Followed the install posted here:
http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r6-how-guides/29697-how-completely-remove-ais.html
The only points of my install that differed from his were:
-I didn't remove the tank, propping it gave me enough room.
-I didn't have a fancy cap, so I used duct tape and a ziptie
-My reed plates didn't "gently pop off", I had to use a pair of needle nose vice grips to get them off.
Other fun things:
Stock AIS system weight: 552g (1.2 lbs)
Agg blockoffs weight: 92g (0.2 lbs)
Total weight savings:
460g (1.0 lbs)
Started the bike afterwords to make sure there was no vacuum leaks, and it runs just as good as before. Didn't have it on the road (I did let the fan cycle a few times), but when the revs are dropping, there is less popping from the exhaust.
Also, if you rev it around 8K a few times, it shoots fire out of the exhaust
(Probably because I have an aftermarket pipe and no PCIII).
I guess removing the extra airflow from the AIS was enough to richen up the exhaust to the point of flame.
NOTE: According to Agg, I should have used the original gaskets or some RTV to help seal the plates. It's not crucial (not a high pressure system) but he recommends it.
Next time I have the airbox off i'll put the gaskets in.