Yamaha R6 Forum: YZF-R6 Forums banner

07 R6: How to remove extra plugs from front wireing harness on for track only bike

19K views 55 replies 18 participants last post by  cmb46 
#1 · (Edited)
Like the title says, this is how you remove all those extra plugs from the front wiring harness if you are going track only. My bike is a 2007 R6 so I'm not sure how similar this is to other bikes. I will not be riding my R6 on the street anymore. When I switch to track plastics (hopefully next week) I don't want all the extra plugs taking up room and looking ugly. What I have done takes all the light and relay plugs out of the wiring harness so that the only thing that remains is the plug to the gauge cluster and the sensor in the air tube. That is all you need on a track bike. This set up will allow you to keep the head light fuse in order to keep the back lights on the gauge cluster in case you want that.

This is what you have before.


And this is what you end up with.


I'm sure there are more wires that are not used but I removed everything required to get rid of the extra plugs. I'm not super good at reading electric diagrams so I only did the minimum required to remove the extra plugs. This is only for someone going to a track body that has no intention to EVER going back to a street bike. The process could be reversed but it would just be better to get a new front wiring harness.

First, you have to cut open the entire wiring harness. Don't hold back. Take out all the tape.

Second, there are five wires that need to be removed from the clear wiring harness plug. See the picture below


Third, there is a large red/yellow wire that comes from the clear plug. Close to the plug, this wire splits into two red/yellow wires and one blue wire. Cut the two red/yellow wires so it looks like the picture.


Lastly, cut out the solid dark green wire and the black/yellow wire from the back of the gauge cluster plug. You don't need these. Just tape them up after you cut them. Tape up the wiring harness and you are done.


This is the mess that was removed.


Check out the before and after picture. If you think it is worth the cutting and no turning back then do it. It is easy. I didn't see this anywhere else on the forum so I thought I would write it up here. If it has been done before I couldn't find it. It took me several hours but only because I tested the gauge after cutting every wire to make sure I didn't cut out something necessary.
 
See less See more
6
#2 ·
Nice write up
 
#5 ·
Hmmm prly wouldn't be hard to make your own wiring harness and sell the stock one
 
#7 ·
In that case I'd do it the way you did. I thought a full wiring harness would be worth a lot more than that.
 
#10 ·
Not expensive at all. I had a relay fail and it was cheaper to get a complete wire harness that included the needed relay than the relay itself. Weird how that worked out...
 
#11 ·
Thanks. About the brown wire, all you would have to do is look at the left blinker wires coming out of the main harness. The wires will be the same color. I suck at reading diagrams and I especially had trouble with this manual's diagram so I just went off of a little common since mixed with trial and error. I'm sure you could remove more wires from the front harness but I mostly just wanted to get rid of the extra plugs. Any additional information could help others that want to make their harness as light as possible.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Motorcycle.com App
 
#9 ·
Great write up... Maybe on a "need something to do" kinda day...

:cheers
 
#13 ·
The blue wire that connects with the red/yellow wire powers the back light. The red/yellow wires powered the headlights so in order to maintain the backlight you have to keep the headlight fuse. There may be another possible power source bit I was not being picky when doing this up.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Motorcycle.com App
 
#16 ·
Reaaally? I was interested in doing this just to clean it up. Didnt know it wasnt legal. Anything specific about it being wrong or giving an advantage since it's not touching the engine?


Sent from my iPhone using Motorcycle.com App
 
#22 ·
Wow, I never new cutting out connectors from the wiring harness would be against the rules. I'm sure they have some reason though. I guess I wont be cutting out all the extra wires from the main harness. This will be easy to replace if I ever decide to race this bike.
 
#27 ·
Take the harness completely off the bike, connect everything and spread it out on the ground. Start taking all tape off making sure to put zip ties at the spots where the harness splits or turns on every part that splits. Pick the connectors you want to remove and do it one wire at a time. I used a scribe to depin the connectors instead of cutting the wires. It's going to take a while, just go slow and pay attention to what you're removing. There's a few spots where three or four wires tie into each other and all Yamaha used was a circle piece of metal and electrical tape to hold it together. I used blue painters tape to mark these so that I knew to come back before I re wrapped the harness with tape to fix up these spots. Some I soldered and used shrink wrap, some I just cut the wires being removed as close to the circle metal piece as I could and re wrapped with electrical tape. When removing wires I lost the back light in the meters, so if you want that pay attention to what you're removing. I also recommend using the 3M high temp electrical tape, I buy it at Home Depot, it costs $3-$4 per roll and I recommend before you go and wrap your harness to put it on the bike and put everything back together and make sure it all still works. I also took the two plugs that go out of the frame on the right side and bought a large 16 pin connector, combined them into one, and routed everything by the throttle bodies and out the front of the frame. I also relocated the fuse box in front of the battery. The result is the rectifier is mounted where the bracket for it used to be, and the only electrical outside the frame is the short length that runs up the left inside to the ignition, and the short length that I ran up the right inside of the frame to the meters and thumb switch. I have both exiting right above the radiator in the center of the frame.


Sent from Motorcycle.com App
 
#28 ·
Take the harness completely off the bike, connect everything and spread it out on the ground. Start taking all tape off making sure to put zip ties at the spots where the harness splits or turns on every part that splits. Pick the connectors you want to remove and do it one wire at a time. I used a scribe to depin the connectors instead of cutting the wires. It's going to take a while, just go slow and pay attention to what you're removing. There's a few spots where three or four wires tie into each other and all Yamaha used was a circle piece of metal and electrical tape to hold it together. I used blue painters tape to mark these so that I knew to come back before I re wrapped the harness with tape to fix up these spots. Some I soldered and used shrink wrap, some I just cut the wires being removed as close to the circle metal piece as I could and re wrapped with electrical tape. When removing wires I lost the back light in the meters, so if you want that pay attention to what you're removing. I also recommend using the 3M high temp electrical tape, I buy it at Home Depot, it costs $3-$4 per roll and I recommend before you go and wrap your harness to put it on the bike and put everything back together and make sure it all still works. I also took the two plugs that go out of the frame on the right side and bought a large 16 pin connector, combined them into one, and routed everything by the throttle bodies and out the front of the frame. I also relocated the fuse box in front of the battery. The result is the rectifier is mounted where the bracket for it used to be, and the only electrical outside the frame is the short length that runs up the left inside to the ignition, and the short length that I ran up the right inside of the frame to the meters and thumb switch. I have both exiting right above the radiator in the center of the frame.
Yeah I've lost the backlight, I guess I could put it back in but we don't have any 24 hour race tracks here in NZ anyway.

I've already got the bike wired to turn on with the kill switch (though I'm going to change this to a switch, as I've learned you cannot get diagnostics with that setup) I also want to wire a single radiator fan up to a switch too, so I'm only going to need 2 fuses right? one for ignition and one for the fan (left or right)

Cheers for the direction! I think I'm just about done...if it works...
 
#29 ·
I have a running engine!!

she sounds a bit rough, hasn't been run since November, oil change, new filter, new spark plugs

Some guys in the mechanical department at uni are having trouble with the wiring loom on a 2008 r6, if I get the opportunity I'll make a comprehensive guide on how to strip the stock loom down for race bikes.
 
#38 ·
Yeah the OP appears to have removed his - I wouldn't recommend this.

Mostly cause when it's not plugged in the dash throws an error that it's missing.

It also provides the temperature component of the ideal gas law your bike undoubtedly uses to calculate how much fuel to push through to get the desired air-fuel-ratio.

I'll post up my harness in about 2 weeks, in the middle of exams at the moment.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top