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Bazzaz Z-Fi/AFM software question(s)

2K views 9 replies 4 participants last post by  Agg2001 
#1 ·
alright, well, i thought i was doing it right when i plugged up to the unit, got it to connect, saw the "self mapping" tab, clicked it, and hit "start". but when i came back to it a few days later (today), nothing was there. do i have to leave this beast ON after hitting start? is there no flash/memory that it stores this in once the bike is off? do i need to keep the system on once i hit "start" for it to actually create the recommended adjustment?

i've got one key, and my access to the unit is under my passenger seat. which means, i can open it, turn the system on, but then once i'm done riding/mapping, the only way to get her back open is to turn her off, then use the key to get the passenger seat off. will this lose my map? i'm so lost!!!

i'm planning on going out tomorrow morning to get a decent street map made (and to have a little fun after having not ridden her for nearly 2 weeks) and i would like to know how to get it functioning properly. thanks guys!
 
#2 ·
come on! somebody has to know. even if i get her "self-mapping" on the way out, what happens if i have to pull over to get gas? will i lose everything unless i take the laptop with me? that doesn't sound very workable.

PLEASE HELP! leaving here for the morning ride in about an hour or so (830 central), so i would REALLY like to know something by then if possible. thanks y'all!
 
#3 ·
Lets start fresh. Open your software after you have the bike in the on position (not running). go to the self mapping tab. Click stop (if started...sounds like it is) Then click retrieve. Once your self map loads clear it all out. This will start us fresh. Set your A/F ratio where you want it. (i have mine at 13.0 for my performance map) Then click start. Next click exit and your done. The system will self map for up to something like 5 hours even with the key off. Make your first few runs short and sweet, as you don't want to be romping on an untuned engine. When you get back from your run, connect to the software with the key in the on position. Click stop (to stop the self mapping), retrieve, and apply the changes you want. It's usually dead on so i usually apply all. This will send the changes to your fuel map curve. Now if you want to go again...hit start and your ready to self map again!
 
#4 ·
suhweet! it worked. thanks man. guess i didn't know about the "retreive" part. haha... oh well.

also, once i've done the retrieve, and want to keep mapping, do i need to clear the old data out? does each round of "selp mapping" need to start from scratch?
 
#5 · (Edited)
Ah yeah....forgot to tell you about that part. Start fresh each time. It will now be running off your "newly applied" map so starting from scratch is the best result. Oh and while i am at it...How do you like your -1 +2 setup? I had that on my old f3, but it had it when i started, so i could never gauge a difference. I was thinking -1 +1 for myself in fear that the rpm's would be to high for the interstate the latter way.
 
#6 ·
i LOVE the new gearing. the rpms do get up there when cruising... but only by about a 10-12% jump (6th gear at 6k rmps is NOW 60 mph... used to be 66 mph).

and thanks for the play-by-play. i was feeling like a squid having bought something that was looking to be too advanced for me. :) got the first round of tuning done (HUGE changes it suggested) and now i'm self-mapping again (for at least a few more days) and then i'll start it over again.
 
#8 ·
and thanks for the play-by-play. i was feeling like a squid having bought something that was looking to be too advanced for me. :)
you ARE a squid! lol jk just got mine on and have been tuning. That Two Bros Header (instead of my homemade one) and the Bazzaz ZFi w/AFM made a HUGE difference. I no longer bog out in low rpms like I used to. I am now waiting for the bike to cool. Before, I had a problem during startup where the bike would die at about 106 degrees. I would have to hold the throttle at around 2,000+ to keep it running. and sometimes when pulling the clutch on the highway, it would die as well. SO like I said, waiting on the bike to cool so I can see if it fixed that problem
 
#9 ·
You have to go in and manualy add fuel at low rpms for a good idle since the system doesnt log at idle . Also avoid long warmups blipping the throttle while logging because the readings will be wacked out . I went in and added about 15% at 1000,1500 , and 2000 rpms to get a good smooth idle.
 
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