Yamaha R6 Forum: YZF-R6 Forums banner

Any 06+ R6r stubby exhaust for 03-05 R6 or R6s

91K views 201 replies 59 participants last post by  Lemonshark 
#1 · (Edited)
STATUS: [COMPLETE]

Ok, so here's the mother of all how-to's - "installing a stubby exhaust for your 03-05 R6 or 06-07 R6S." Yes it works, no it's not a lot of work and yes its freaking awesome. Bigger pictures are available, just PM me.

Pictures will be at the end of the threads - 2 successful pipes done.

Tools/Materials
1/4" Black Steel (or whatever you want)
#6 metric hex allen wrench
12mm socket wrench
Pliers or Vice Grips
A vice (it helps A LOT)
Drill with a 1/4" bit
Crowbar
Some bolts with lock nuts. 12mm's are a good size.

I think that's it


Let's get down and dirty!

I assume you have already removed the stock exhaust. I'll write a howto later on to do that. For now, search the boards I'm lazy.

You need to drop the midpipe down about 1” in order to fit the snug the new stubby on without rubbing the swingarm. What I did here was took the black steel and created a bracket. This bracket is about 1.5” with 1” between the centers of the holes. You may need an assistant here to help wedge the midpipe down a bit.

Place the crowbar over the midpipe and push down. Install the bracket while the midpipe is lowered. You will have to hold this position until the bolts are tightened. I'm not going to explain much here, I hope you have an understanding.

Here’s the bracket



Before bracket is installed



After bracket is installed. Notice you will need a nut and bolt here. Make sure they're snug and make sure your using a lock nut.





Notice the drop – good. Put the new pipe in to verify it'll fit without rubbing. If all is well. Good. If not, you might need to make another backet to drop it down further.

Now, that hard part. Time to fabricate the bracket to hold the exhaust in place. I chose to install this bracket to the back of the peg. So this requires removing the rearset and removing the peg. Now this might be a PITA because of the lock-tight but you'll get through it. Pour warm water over it if it's tight. It'll help loosen the lock-tight.

Rearset is held on by 2 screws. Once they are out it'll give you enough flex room to move the rearset around so you can view the back.



Removing peg
Looking at the back you'll notice the screw holding the peg on. This will need to be removed. Hold the peg with a set of pliers and unscrew the hex screw. This part is PITA part I mentioned above.



Peg removed





Great, now your almost there. Time for the most time consuming part. This is where your going to make the bracket to hold the exhaust to the peg. Measure twice cut once. Keep that in mind. Also take note that you may have to install the rearset a couple of times to make sure the bracket is fitted correctly.

Line up the steel, make sure it aligns properly. Notice I had to make some cuts to make it fit snug where it wouldn't wobble around. Things are flush this way. I took an estimate of how many inches I'd need to get the steel from the back of the peg to the bracket of the new exhaust. Roughly 7-8" for starters, then cut as necessary. Mark the hole and drill.



Voila, one side done. Time to bend the bracket to fit around the swingarm and angle the exhaust out a little bit. This step required the vice for me. Since I had no protractor, I bent a little then fitted it to the exhaust and the rearset to assure it'll work.



Install the bracket and put the exhaust in place. This is where you'll fit the bracket for the second hole mounting the bracket to the exhaust. I forgot to take pictures so I'll piggy back this one.



Drill the holes and make the appropriate cuts to size down the bracket to look elegant. The hole for the exhaust clamp had to be drilled at an angle so the bolt would go through and sit flush on the clamp.



Finished bracket woot



Install the bracket to the rearset then reinstall the rearset. Tighten it all down. Install the exhaust and make sure all fitmet is correct.





OMG ALMOST DONE! This part is [INCOMPLETE]

Notice the exhaust just sits inside of the midpipe. We will have to enlarge the exhaust pipe to fit very SNUG inside the midpipe. For this we will have to get a pipe expander. You can rent these for 20$ at autozone. Once you return it you'll get your money back. Good deal eh. I will provide pictures tomorrow when I get the dang pipe expander. I'll write the instructions for it now though.

Put the pipe expander inside the exhaust pipe and enlarge it by 1/16" - 3/32". It's not a very big change so do it slowly and check it often. Once it fits snug, voila your done.

Dont forget to install the exhaust clamp.

If your still having leaks, pick up some exhaust putty. Apply this to your putty to your exhaust pipe smoothly. Once it dries, it'll expand and harden. To break this seal, just bang the mid-pipe once of twice and it'll fracture off.


Questions or comments?
 
See less See more
15
#2 · (Edited)
Taken with my cell phone, we need a better video camera.

Star6 06 R6s - Stage for howto
Pipe: Akrapovic CF Stubby
Video/Audio [old]: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUyK_NSduHw (20 degrees out @ 2am)
Video/Audio [new-hd]: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHXmmFZNIbA&fmt=22
Drive by: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QoB8HOkdJCY&fmt=22





--------

FLeiXiuS - My 07 R6s
Pipe: Yoshimura TRC CF Stubby
Video/Audio: http://www.youtube.com/v/dJxE6IO5Ye0 (old, I'll do another in summer)
Video/Audio [new-hd]: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rY6V4bjClWk&fmt=22
Drive by: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCij2bW-xJ8&fmt=22







--------

TMAN1985 - 2008 Yamaha R6s
Pipe: Yoshimura TRC CF Stubby



 
#3 ·
Saved for pictures and audio
 
#4 ·
Very nice write up dude ! TBH looks a tiny bit difficult with the brackets and what not, but nothing a lil time won't do to help. As for the questions:

1/ The akropovic sounds fairly quiet in the video. Would you rate it much lower in sound than the stock 06 conversion exhaust on the 05 ??
2/ Did you notice any performance decrease ? top end , low end ?
3/ can you get a baffle for the akropovic exhaust ?

thanks
 
#9 ·
Hey man, the exhaust is loud trust me. The video was done on my cell phone so the audio quality isnt as great as it could be. There is a baffle available...I might take a video later this evening. I've been sick all weekend so I might not get around to it.

As for performance, its too cold to drive her down to the dyno. On my bike, with the stubby yoshi, the power seems very much improved through the low-end. Again, I need graphs to prove but this will have to wait till next season.

killians31 said:
excellent write up! i am defiantly plan on giving this a try sometime in the near future. i have been planning on putting a jardine gp1 or slash cut on my 05, but have been a little torn on how i was going to do this (was probably just going to weld it).

seems like this is going to take a bit of work to get it looking good. but it looks like the only downside is the passenger peg still has the bolt up spot for the stock exhaust. personally this isnt too big of a deal, because i am probably going to powder coat everything when i do this, and cut off the bolt ups on the passenger peg before powder coating to make it look better.

but anyways, thanks for the write up

cant wait to see finished pictures.

p.s. is a pipe expander absolutely necessary?
The stock pipe holder will be cut off. I havent had time to do it nor do I have the tools right now to do it. But when I get the chance, I'll definitely add it.

The pipe expander just makes the exhaust pipe fit into the midpipe without any wiggle room. I'd say its required just so there's a limited chance for an exhaust leak. This is also why I have added the need for the exhaust putty. It just seals the finish and makes for one hell of a setup.
 
#5 ·
excellent write up! i am defiantly plan on giving this a try sometime in the near future. i have been planning on putting a jardine gp1 or slash cut on my 05, but have been a little torn on how i was going to do this (was probably just going to weld it).

seems like this is going to take a bit of work to get it looking good. but it looks like the only downside is the passenger peg still has the bolt up spot for the stock exhaust. personally this isnt too big of a deal, because i am probably going to powder coat everything when i do this, and cut off the bolt ups on the passenger peg before powder coating to make it look better.

but anyways, thanks for the write up

cant wait to see finished pictures.

p.s. is a pipe expander absolutely necessary?
 
#7 ·
Sweet deal... I am not a huge fan of the shorties but that looks really good....
 
#10 ·
#11 ·
i have the GYTR shorty on my 2003 r6, its really loud... i like it though. only drawback is that it is kind of high pitch. not as deep as i would like. but looks way better than before. it wasnt that hard, it just took a couple runs to the autopart store, and couple hours. takes a bit of fab work though.
 

Attachments

#12 ·
im debating on getting a jardine gp1 or a m4 gp exhaust for my 05. i want it to have a deep ballzy sound, probably going to go with the m4 gp..what do you guys think?
 
#13 ·
#14 ·
So I have the parts and plan to do this soon. I am personally starting with a stock 07 exhaust, but plan to do it with an Akra eventually. But as I design it in my head I came up with an issue.

How do you jet/program the bike to the shorty? Right now I have a map for the Yoshi, but what do I need to do for the shorty? You cant use a map for a different bike, but you also have a different pipe that needs to be mapped.
 
#18 ·
They both sound good, keep them clean though. Pollen around here ****ed my CF up.
 
#19 ·
this is a mod I would really like to do for my 05 but after much research I still can't find a definitive answer on power loss. I know the stock 06+ loses low down power and makes the ride quite lumpy, but is this the case with an akra or yoshi? I understand a PCIII is required for re-mapping, but is there actually any suitable maps available for these shorties on an 05?

I love the look of the shorter pipe but can't justify the mod if its going to lose me power...
 
#20 ·
I want to get my bike to the dyno after my block off plates and air filter are in. I'll let you know when i get results.
 
#25 ·
hey dude, just looking back through your (really good) write up and just wondering why you have manufactured the angled washer as you have...I cant see why you have gone to the effort of cutting up the block? surely you would be better off just using a normal washer than manufacturing the angled one, or am i missing something obvious?

cheers

edit - any news on power yet?
 
#26 ·
Doing it this way enables any pipe to fit. You make the bracket for your specific setup. Works magic, plus its way more secure. What do you mean by a normal washer?
 
#28 ·
I see your point, however I wanted to angel the bracket out to clear the swingarm. I don't think this would be enough to do so. You dont have to cut at an angle, you can just make the whole larger so it'll fit.
 
#30 ·
Normally these are drilled custom because I dont know how the mounts on the other pipes are. This method leaves you open to using ANY stubby for ANY bike.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top