Yamaha R6 Forum: YZF-R6 Forums banner

Bike won't start, or will barely start but dies

19K views 15 replies 6 participants last post by  Intuit 
#1 ·
Sorry to post yet another 'bike won't start' thread, but I've searched and tried a lot of the things posted and can't solve this. Hopefully it will just help someone in the future.

I have a 2009 R6 with about 3k miles.

I was installing a switch for a power wire for lights and wanted to run the wire under the tank area to the battery. So I unbolted the tank except the rear bolt so the tank could just lift up, hinged on the rear. I lifted the tank, ran the wire through, buttoned the bike back up. It was really simple.

Then the problem came when trying to start the bike back up. Turning the key and flipping the cut off switch, I could hear the fuel pump run and prime. I'd hit the starter and it would churn, but the bike wouldn't fire up. After quite a few more tries, there would be a few time it sounded like it would almost start up, but still wouldn't come alive. There's at least 1/2 tank of gas in there.

So I tried just turning the key to prime the fuel system a couple times before starting her up. That didn't really help much either. By now, the battery was weak and ran out of juice to even try starting anymore.

I plugged in the trickle charger and brought the battery back up to full charge. Now I decided to run a jumper from my car battery just to make sure it had juice. Still the same results.

Randomly, sometimes after doing the thing where I turn the key on and off a couple times to prime the fuel a couple times and then starting, the bike will fire up and run really rough for about 5 to 10 seconds and then die.

Also, the few times I can get her to actually start up, if she doesn't die right away, I've tried giving her some throttle to get the revs up, but as soon as I barely even turn the throttle, she dies immediately.

I've checked fuses, I've checked carefully as I set the tank back down that I'm not binding any lines, I didn't disconnect anything under there, but I checked everything and it all seems to be secured.

I can not figure this out and it's driving me crazy! If anyone has any ideas, I would greatly appreciate it! :confused:
 
See less See more
#3 ·
how many miles on it, what else is changed/modded on it? Are you 100% sure nothing was disconnected? what exactly did you do regarding wiring?
 
#6 ·
double check all your wiring, sounds like the fuel pump isn't working. And correct me if im wrong guys, there are wiring piece hooking into the front of the bikes wiring (ie. head lights) that affect the fuel pump and other ignition components...
 
#9 ·
Ok, so I checked all wiring and connections. Everything seems to be good and intact.

I checked all fuses including under the left side panel under the handle as well as all fuses under the seat including main fuse, fuel injection system fuse, ignition fuse, etc. All are fine.

I double checked all connections under the tank and to the tank, all are fine.

I tried starting with the gas cap open, still the same.

I checked intake passage and air filter area, all are fine.

I've pretty much run down to everything except pulling out the fuel pump.

Any other ideas before I resort to that?

Thanks again!
 
#10 ·
More updates.....

I've pulled the fuel line, ran a 12v to the fuel pump, the fuel line blows out plenty of pressure for fuel.

I emptied the tank and put in a fresh tank of gas.

Still does the same thing, starter will try and try, but engine just won't fire up.
 
#11 ·
Something interesting that might be a clue... hopefully someone out there can do a quick test and help me see if this could be part of the problem.

With the bike off, but the key on, I can see the green "neutral" light is on. The bike rolls back and forth fine.

Then, I kick it down into first, pull back the clutch lever all the way, and I thought it would roll around like it's in neutral, but it doesn't. It takes quite a bit of effort to push the bike forward. Does this sound normal? Can someone try and let me know?

I would expect it to roll just like neutral when the clutch is pulled in when in first gear. I'm not sure that would have an effect on the bike not starting, because I've been trying to start in neutral, where it rolls around just fine.

I checked the clutch cable from the handle all the way down and it's not binding or tied up anywhere and I never touched/adjusted it, but tomorrow I'll pull the fairing off again, just to double check.

Thanks for any help. Much appreciated.
 
#12 ·
Just out of curiosity, sat on the bike, kickstand up, bike in first gear, clutch lever pulled back all the way, tried to start the bike..... it lunged forward hard.....didn't start though.

Put it back in neutral, rolled it back into the garage. Tried to start in neutral, still same thing.

So
freaking
frustrated.
 
#13 ·
might be a long shot... but, my bike went into some kind weird limp mode, or auto shut down mode or whatever when i was adding the electronics to it after the header/pipe install.

I did this and it started right up.. I did not write this so i am copying and pasting it

DIAGNOSTIC MODE
Setting the diagnostic mode
1. Turn the main switch to “OFF”.
2. Disconnect the wire harness coupler from the fuel pump.
3. Press and hold the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons, turn the main switch to “ON”, and continue to press the buttons for 8 seconds or more.
• All displays on the meter disappear except the odometer/trip meter/fuel reserve trip meter/stopwatch
display.
• “dIAG” appears on the odometer/trip meter/fuel reserve trip meter/stopwatch LCD.
4. Press the “SELECT” button to select the diagnostic mode “dIAG”.
5. After selecting “dIAG”, simultaneously press the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons for 2 seconds or
more to activate the diagnostic mode. The diagnostic code number “d01” appears on the clock LCD.
6. Select the diagnostic code number corresponding to the fault code number by pressing the “SE-
LECT” and “RESET” buttons.
NOTE:
• To decrease the selected diagnostic code number, press the “RESET” button. Press the “RESET”
button for 1 second or longer to automatically decrease the diagnostic code numbers.
• To increase the selected diagnostic code number, press the “SELECT” button. Press the “SELECT”
button for 1 second or longer to automatically increase the diagnostic code numbers.
Pretty sure the injector on the right side is #4. Scroll through till you get to the numbers I posted earlier. Try #4, try #1 too just in case I'm wrong, but I'm pretty certain #4 is on the right, #1 is on the left.

In diagnostic mode,

61 should show you trouble codes, codes should rotate through every 2 seconds.
62 will clear the codes - Flip the kill switch to clear stored codes.

Make sure you write down any codes stored, or any codes you see on the gauge cluster when you turn the key on, might give you something to go on.




I cleared 61 & 63 to 0 using the kill switch.. She started, so thats awesome..
 
#14 ·
There was nothing wrong in any of the diagnostics checks.

I solved the problem. It was the fuel pump. I removed it, disassembled it, discovered that a grommet and plastic valve were sitting incorrectly, double checked all the internal parts and ensured they were repositioned properly, put everything back together, and now she fires right up and runs like new. In fact, the throttle response is very crisp and fully back to the point like she was new.

Thanks.
 
#15 ·
heyguys i have a 2012 yamaha yzf r6 and im encountering some problems with the starting i rode the bike this past saturday and on sunday when i decided to ride again, the bike ignition lights up the fuel pump would prime but when i flip the run switch then power up the ike would just click and all power would just cut out it would then light up the dash again ans same thing
now the fuel pump is not making the sound of priming and the bike just clicks when i power up
not withstanding the fact that the sound of a starter swinging to turn the engine is also MIA in so distort Help HELP HELP >>>> please
the pump is no longer making the sound of priming
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top