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Bike won't start...another one.

5K views 42 replies 6 participants last post by  topherchris 
#1 ·
Was running fine to ride over to tech and fill up, I pulled away and it started sounding louder and lower, sputtering a little bit. The bike stalled, restarted then did the same thing and stalled. It won't start now and is throwing a Code 46, it will crank all day though and very once in a while make an attempt to start. I've been searching and can't seem to find anything relevant. Quick replies are appreciated, I'm wasting track time.


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#10 ·
Yes I completely disconnected it and hooked it up OEM, I think it was actually your reply to a thread where that was the cure that prompted me to do that! I'm going through the manual now, I just swapped out the regulator and still 46.


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#13 ·
I was wondering why you linked to the R1 service manual! No worries, hopefully I'll have a short work day, I did do a full wire tuck on it and removed all the headlight an signal wiring...weird that it worked fine the first day and suddenly got weird on me, I'm extremely confident in my work, but we'll see.


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#19 · (Edited)
I'll check for spark tomorrow, no exhaust smell, wiring harness and connectors look good, I'll also pick up starting fluid tomorrow and see if that works. I didn't do diagnostic mode until your recommendation. I don't understand the results, but I'm going to research after I post, so please feel free to elaborate if you know, bike currently has tank and air box off and all connections electrical and hoses disconnected from each. Here is diagnostic mode results:
d01: 17
d02: 126
d03: 100
d05: 82
d06: 82
d07: 0
d08: 0.6
d09: 0.0 to 12.3 after switch is pressed
d13: 14 then 15 then 16 (quickly)
d30 to d50: 00 CEL blinks 5x
d51: fans run
d52 and d53: CEL solid
d60: 00
d61: 17 to 30 after switch
d62: 4 to 2 after switch
d63: 0
d70: 0

Edit: after reading the service manual I figured everything out...diagnostic mode is all good except the d01 (throttle valve throttle position sensor) when throttle is full open...it gives me 95 and the spec is 97-106. The code 46 or not starting doesn't seem to be related to that or show anything in diagnostic mode. I'm going to check spark and coils tomorrow then partially reassemble and see if it'll start with starting fluid. What's throwing me for a loop is I don't see how code 46 and not starting are related.

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#22 ·
Ok, looks like the bike is saying there are NO current codes, only old codes are EXUP exhaust valve code 17 and tip over sensor code 30.

If you go to Code 62 and cycle the kill switch a few times:

"Erases only the history codes when the engine stop switch
is turned from OFF to ON. If the engine stop switch is ON,
turn it OFF once, and then turn it back ON."

Then try and start the bike a few times and go back in and check code 60. You have to let it sit on 60 for a bit, it'll flash which cylinder/injector is having the issue, followed by the error code.

How did you initially know it was throwing code 46?

Give that a try and see what code it's saying.

-Jamie M.
 
#23 ·
Yes...I reset both those and it doesn't show them anymore. I also did like you said and it just shows 00 and doesn't change or have a CEL. I know code 46 because every time I turn the ignition on not in diagnostic mode it flashes code 46. Bike will crank all day but not start.


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#24 ·
Wow, code 46 is NASTY! It's called the Rossi code because so many Yamaha's get it and a ton of people can't fix it!

Have you tried bump starting your bike? Apparently it'll work fine.

Do you have a volt meter? Connect it to the battery and take a volt reading while the bike is trying to start.

I read a lot of reports of a pinched wire under the front sprocket cover, I believe it's the exup control wires? If they short out it can throw a code 46, make the bike not start AND people said as they were riding the bike got louder and lower until it cut out! They were able to bump start it though.

Code 46 in the YEC book says low power to the fuel injectors. Common causes are bad ground connections or bad power connection between battery positive post, fuse block, or ECU.

-Jamie M.
 
#25 ·
Yes I agree, it's driving me crazy. Ill check that voltage tomorrow. Bump starting didn't work, bike was low, loud, and sputtering prior to not working at all. It's kind of funny because I was riding to the rest room and I was thinking "Damn, this thing sounds good with no helmet or ear plugs...wait, no it doesn't!" I then grabbed the clutch because I was at the restroom and it died. I restarted an it died right away. Now won't start at all.


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#30 ·
Update...got starting fluid and the bike will start but dies out. After doing this the code 46 is gone, but the bike will still not run.
Don't you love that ish! If you get good with the spraying quickly across all the throttle bodies you can actually make it idle pretty good too!

So you KNOW the problem is fuel. The fuel injectors (i.e. broken signal due to power commander, corroded fuel injection harness wire due to previous installation of power commander, etc.). While you've got the tank up, check out the fuel injection connectors (they are the big, main harness connections). Take them apart, fill em up with dielectric grease, squish em back together, test again.

How old is the fuel? If you disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail and turn the key on it'll pump fuel out like a fire hose (to drain the tank), put in some 87 octane regular fuel and give er a go again.

I'm glad she runs :)

-Jamie M.
 
#29 ·
Since I'm at the point of a bike not starting because of fuel let me add this: I had suspected I had bad fuel and so I put it in two cans and filled them. The ratio would have been about 1.5:3.5. AND the last thing I did before it stopped running was put fuel in...so...is there a way to check/clean injectors and fuel system?


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