02 r6 ,just had a 520 ek chain sprocket change +2 rear-1 front and my tires keep sliding out on me . never happend before only thing I've noticed is the rear tire is all the way back of adjustment. chain needs to be shortened but it needs to strech first. tires are fairly new q2s. do i need to rest suspension. i almost slid under an oncoming truck, luckily i kicked my leg out and pushed myself up.
could be chain lube, silicon base or just weather change cold asphalt and tire. its just every time i pull my bike from a shop theres always something werd.
I'm not no mechanic, but if everything is new, I don't know why they put the wheel all the way back. I put mine at the front, so as the chain loosens over time, you then progressively move the wheel back to lessen the slack.
With your wheel already adjusted to the furthest back it can go, when your chain begins to loosen, you'll have to break the chain, adjust the link count and add a master link. Seems like too much work, I personally think you should find a different shop, or do it yourself. Chain & Sprockets aren't a hard job.
$ 65.00 labor chain & sprockets one link would be to much they told me, have to wait till it stretched. i here what your saying though i try to do as much as i can , but i didn't want to buy a chain riveter for only one time.
riders/racers can go fast with the axle position all the way forward, or all the way back. It sometimes helps a little bit to have it one way or another depending on the track and other setup characteristics.. but we are talking about bikes with WAY more hp than an 02r6 (no offense) and going way faster using the limits of traction of competition race rubber not street/sport tires. (again.. no offense)..
post number 2 was the winner. You need to learn better throttle control given the conditions you have
With the axle that far back, the bike isn't gonna turn too well. So shorten the wheelbase, or try lowering the front ride height a bit. I wouldn't be surprised if you're running out of tire cause you're trying to lean so far to make the bike turn.
You think so? I'm thinking this guy is getting throttle-happy on cold tires on the street with improper technique and is about two more corners like that away from killing himself. :fact
Is the chain slack correct? Why does it need to "stretch" before you can shorten it? (Chains don't actually stretch, they wear.)
If you don't have enough slack it'll essentially lock up the rear suspension, which isn't going to help with whatever you've got going on. Being poor throttle control, or a greased up tire. You didn't Armor All your tires did you?
There's so little info and so much to consider here.
What tire size? Especially the front.
What tire pressure front/rear?
Where is it you manage to lean so far your leg/knee is down?
How many miles on the tires? What would you consider the tread condition to be?
What's the ambient air temp, time of day, dew point, pavement temp low or high (day/night/cloudy/wet?).
It's impossible to throw out any one thing for OP here. But if we get the right info out of him, maybe he can make his way towards a much better overall setup regardless. And I don't want to discount geometry. This 02 can get so far out of a decent range between wheelbase and ride hieght, especially as if effects trail, and the way this lonnnng swingarm acts as a gigantic lever on the shock spring cannot be underestimated as a potential problem with his setup. Whether it's what caused him to lose all this traction, etc on a known decent tire is weird for sure tho
Another thing to consider is that having the axle back further should increase rear grip. This is because there is technically more weight transfer to the rear under acceleration.....
But we are also talking about a gear ratio conversion to which increases mechanical torque and also increases acceleration. The OP is simply 100% getting throttle greedy and breaking the tires adhesion limits.
To the OP, getting on the gas out of corners doesn't mean yanking the throttle back. It simply means opening it up and gradually adding more. Smooth is fast and safe. Aggressive is a fast way to find the limits of anything.
Another thing to consider is that having the axle back further should increase rear grip. This is because there is technically more weight transfer to the rear under acceleration.....
But we are also talking about a gear ratio conversion to which increases mechanical torque and also increases acceleration. The OP is simply 100% getting throttle greedy and breaking the tires adhesion limits.
To the OP, getting on the gas out of corners doesn't mean yanking the throttle back. It simply means opening it up and gradually adding more. Smooth is fast and safe. Aggressive is a fast way to find the limits of anything.
Uhhh... Talk to a drag racer about that and see what they say. It works the opposite actually. With a longer length of the swingarm, more of the weight of the bike and rider are centered over the front wheel, so the rear is easier to break loose. That's why that video with the R1 drifting (picture above) has an extended swingarm. :fact
i have never ridden any r6 older than an 03 model, but i just find it surprising that moving the axle forward or back on that older bike would make much difference. who knows though..
there is simply
no..
darn..
way..
.. that axle position has anything to do with the original posters problem.
the difference in 1 link (well 2 really as you can't do just 1 link) would put the axle position from the 1st mark, to almost the 8th mark on the axle adjuster. (of an 03 or later, i don't know what the adjusters look like on a 02 or newer).
I mean no disrespect Chief, but I had to run a 14T/47T on my bike for a little bit because a company sent me the wrong sprocket, so I ran my wheel all the way back on the adjuster (So I can add a larger front sprocket and not have to add links), and between the forward setting, and the rear setting, I really felt no difference with the handling/turning of my bike on the street.
I've never ridden on the track (Hope to change that this upcoming year), and I definitely am not educated in how stuff works like wheel adjustment, but just from personal street experience, I don't see how it could affect him to where it's noticeable.
On the street you could probably run 14psi in the rear tire and not "notice" a difference. Street riding is a lot different than track riding, where you're actually [somewhat] approaching the limit of the machine.
If he just had the Chain installed is it possible that they adjusted the chain TOO tight causing the suspension to bind up and loose grip when it unload a little? Happens on the track if your chain is very tight and not allowing the suspension itself to work properly and keep the tire in contact with the pavement.
Not my diagnosis but food for thought.
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