Dyno Charts...

OhioYJ · Jun 1, 2011

Ok, so I've purposely removed the numbers on these charts. As every dyno reads completely different, and their are way too many variables to compare numbers directly.

The one with the blue line is using a smoothing level 5, and slightly more stretched than the other (which helps make it look smoother), as it starts at 4k rpm, while the other starts from 0. The one that starts from 0 is using a smoothing factor of 4, so it will be slightly more jagged. I thought about making a new chart using the same exact scales, but don't want to get them too modified.

So who would say the power curves are fairly similar? Who says they are completely different?

oke

8Ball · Jun 1, 2011

The blue lines in both charts look pretty much like the same power curve.

OhioYJ · Jun 1, 2011

Dang my color blindness, there is a blue line in both charts?

8Ball · Jun 1, 2011

Top chart I see a red curve that peaks at 14K and a blue one that peaks at 14.5K
Bottom chart, I see a red a blue and a green.

The only diff I see between their delivery is around 4.25K and that could be the way the operator rolled on the throttle....since it is pretty low in the RPM range.

OhioYJ · Jun 2, 2011

Ok, so now would you believe one is a "mid-pipe" exhaust, and the other is one of the "big three" exhaust manufacturers top of the line?

I'm not saying the mid-pipe is just as good as the "race" exhaust, but for a fraction of the cost, it's definitely worth considering. Too many people on here are quick to say that mid-pipes, or MJS Headers are junk, when it's just simply not true. The factory header is actually very well designed, and works quite well once modified.

It'd be a better comparison if I was able to compare two bikes dynoed at the same time, on the same dyno, but I'd bet the results turn out just about the same.

Laughs_At_Squids661 · Jun 3, 2011

Also have to consider how many manufactures dyno run other products for the gains and say its there product. Seen it done many times in the automotive industry.

sdang50 · Jun 8, 2011

Wow, this was COMPLETELY helpful. thanks for this post! Decision made. Now I just have to save up for it. Props again Ohio!

Pallenaldo · Jun 8, 2011

OhioYJ: Nice to see a dyno chart in here.

Thumbs up!

Even though we are missing some infos.

Did you use the same map to all exhaust systems? Or did you/or your mechanic make a custom tune for each exhaust system?

OhioYJ · Jun 9, 2011

Pallenaldo said:
Did you use the same map to all exhaust systems? Or did you/or your mechanic make a custom tune for each exhaust system?

I have all the information, I'm just didn't want to just post up one of the major manufacturers dyno charts showing their exhaust really didn't do much better than a MJS Header.

One chart is one of the big names in exhausts, it's their dyno chart, and I'd be willing to bet it's tuned in very well, as the chart was used in their "sales pitch". Included in that chart originally before I removed the numbers, included both stock, and modified numbers.

The other chart is my bike, on a different dyno (every dyno reads differently another reason I removed the numbers). For my map I used the map Mike @ MJS Performance supplies for his header, then made a few tweaks, and running a auto tune. After seeing the dyno, and the AFR readout on a graph, I'm pretty sure I can tweak it out a little further. That chart was the first time, and probably only time my bike will ever be on a dyno.

The manufacturers chart did have an advantage of having the same year bike to compare stock and modified. On the charts I have I have my run 07 R6, and the stock bike that ran was actually an 08 R6. As far as difference between stock and modified, my bike with the MJS Header actually gained more.

Now usually manufacturers will pull out all the stops and don't care if things run tomorrow when doing these things. However if they actually just used a map tuned for their exhaust in this case, I do have a slight advantage using the auto tune, which could explain the additional power I gained. Especially with the ram air on these bikes, the amount of fuel needed varies quite a bit based on outside temperature, speed, gear, load, etc. Many cases, you just tune your map a little rich and hope thats it's enough that you don't run lean, say on a cold day, or 140 MPH, etc. With the AutoTune making live corrections I am able to run a little leaner and still be safe. Lean to a point makes more power, better throttle response, and better fuel economy. I'm still a hair on the rich side to be safe, but I'm quite sure I'm a bit leaner than what many tuners setup. (14.7:1 is "ideal", however with all the stuff in todays fuel, this ideal ratio can be as low as 14:1, I sit around 13.8 in the lower end (gets richer as RPMs/throttle increases).)

Overall there are tons of variables here. Heck I've seen some poorly designed mid pipes that probably wouldn't dyno near as well. So no matter what you choose, you still need to research and compare, just because something is a "brand name" doesn't automatically make it this much better because it's more expensive.

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