So I had been sort of complaining for a while about not being able to make a different fuel map for each gear on the bike. Brought this up in a thread with a DynoJet rep, and they pointed out the Power Commander has this ability, all you need to do is plug the speed sensor into the PCV and calibrate it.
As with pretty much doing anything to a sport bike, pretty much everything comes apart. Actually the lower half didn't need to come off, but I replaced the plugs again while I was doing this stuff. The tank and tail did have to come off though.
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The speed sensor wire you need to tap into, at least on my 07 R6 is the pink wire (this will be different if you have a Speedo Calibrator of some sort), this connector is under the gas tank. I ended up tapping into the SpeedoHealer harness rather than the factor wiring. For the SpeedoHealer, you need to tap the Green wire (Blue is connected to the pink, but that's signal in, you need signal out). If you have a speedo DRD or something and the colors are different than the SpeedoHealer than you want to connect to the other side of the pink wire, which is white with a yellow tracer.
![Image]()
Now notice the blue and green wires running to the PCV. Green is my signal from the speed sensor. Blue is the signal I added from the coolant temp sensor. Tapping into the coolant temperature sensor can allow you to tune differently based on temperature, or enable/disable the AutoTune based on coolant temperature and not just time. I'll admit for my purposes I really didn't need this, but since I had everything apart, I decided to just go ahead and do it just in case. The temperature sensor wire is Green with a White tracer on the small ECU plug, should be pin #26.
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This should help:
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Now while setting this up I found out you can also adjust the fuel map every 250 RPM, not just in 500 RPM increments. Calibrating the speed sensor was easy, just had it on the stand and you hold the throttle as steady as possible, and just go through the gears, clicking calibrate in the corresponding gear. Calibrating the coolant temperature sensor was easy to, just clicked enabled and left the values at the default settings, everything worked right away.
![Image]()
Full Size: http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/bike/pcvmod4.png
![Image]()
Full Size: http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/bike/pcvmod5.png
This originally started because after higher speed rides my AutoTune would trim my fuel table rich, then when I went back to "normal" street riding it would be rich for a short period while the AutoTune leaned it back out. Having a fuel table for each gear should eliminate these constant changes being needed. Or at least make it so such drastic trims are not needed all the time. As for converting to the 250 RPM increments, that should also allow me to smooth out my AFR a little and power band. It will definitely take some time to tweak it, but should be worth it in the end. For right now, I have converted the MJS Map over to the 250 RPM increments, then will just let the AutoTune trim as necessary.
This definitely has potential though. Another idea I had was to lean out the cruising area some just in 6th gear, that way only 6th gear at highway speeds would be affected (improved fuel economy for commutes), any other gear would not be affected, and on the rich side of "safe".
As with pretty much doing anything to a sport bike, pretty much everything comes apart. Actually the lower half didn't need to come off, but I replaced the plugs again while I was doing this stuff. The tank and tail did have to come off though.
The speed sensor wire you need to tap into, at least on my 07 R6 is the pink wire (this will be different if you have a Speedo Calibrator of some sort), this connector is under the gas tank. I ended up tapping into the SpeedoHealer harness rather than the factor wiring. For the SpeedoHealer, you need to tap the Green wire (Blue is connected to the pink, but that's signal in, you need signal out). If you have a speedo DRD or something and the colors are different than the SpeedoHealer than you want to connect to the other side of the pink wire, which is white with a yellow tracer.
Now notice the blue and green wires running to the PCV. Green is my signal from the speed sensor. Blue is the signal I added from the coolant temp sensor. Tapping into the coolant temperature sensor can allow you to tune differently based on temperature, or enable/disable the AutoTune based on coolant temperature and not just time. I'll admit for my purposes I really didn't need this, but since I had everything apart, I decided to just go ahead and do it just in case. The temperature sensor wire is Green with a White tracer on the small ECU plug, should be pin #26.
This should help:
Now while setting this up I found out you can also adjust the fuel map every 250 RPM, not just in 500 RPM increments. Calibrating the speed sensor was easy, just had it on the stand and you hold the throttle as steady as possible, and just go through the gears, clicking calibrate in the corresponding gear. Calibrating the coolant temperature sensor was easy to, just clicked enabled and left the values at the default settings, everything worked right away.
Full Size: http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/bike/pcvmod4.png
Full Size: http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/bike/pcvmod5.png
This originally started because after higher speed rides my AutoTune would trim my fuel table rich, then when I went back to "normal" street riding it would be rich for a short period while the AutoTune leaned it back out. Having a fuel table for each gear should eliminate these constant changes being needed. Or at least make it so such drastic trims are not needed all the time. As for converting to the 250 RPM increments, that should also allow me to smooth out my AFR a little and power band. It will definitely take some time to tweak it, but should be worth it in the end. For right now, I have converted the MJS Map over to the 250 RPM increments, then will just let the AutoTune trim as necessary.
This definitely has potential though. Another idea I had was to lean out the cruising area some just in 6th gear, that way only 6th gear at highway speeds would be affected (improved fuel economy for commutes), any other gear would not be affected, and on the rich side of "safe".
