FlashTune's new owners, decided to release an update that will destroy the old gold box flash interface. I can only assume they thought it was no longer profitable so they choose to eliminate all the boxes currently in the market.
Just do a search on selfDestructFTDI() the code they used to purposely brick current devices. Once this came out they even tried to rename the routine to happyinterface() to try and hide thise. More here.
If your old flash interface still works, do NOT connect it to the internet, or the let the FlashTune software update. People are currently working on a way to unbrick these devices, but until then, safest bet is to use older offline versions of the software.
With these kind of practices, I will no longer answer questions about FlashTune. However I'll be happy to help people get old software working though so they can continue to use the hardware they bought.
Alternatives to FlashTune
You have other options to flash your R6 / R1 ECUs.
I suggest you look into Woolich Racing before making a purchase with FlashTune.
Since this thread has gotten huge, I'm going to try and have a list of important posts you should also read, that are buried in pages of info here.
Mods Please do NOT sticky this!
I will add this into my existing FAQ when it's ready, we have enough clutter at the top of the forum already.
Ok so I've had some time messing around with my Flash-Tune flash interface. I've decided to start this thread to openly discuss some of the pros and cons, recommendations, and thoughts on the interface. I will eventually add this into my FAQ when I'm done (In a much revised manner).
Lets first go over some of the restrictions, and maps that are currently on the R6. All the maps I'm posting are for the 06-07 models, as I have an 07. The 08+ are actually quite a bit more restrictive though. (06-07 and 08-12 TPS maps compared here.)
The changes to the map seem mild, but it actually makes a noticeable difference. I was actually surprised to see the 06-07 R6 had a much less restrictive throttle map from the factory than the R1s and the 08+ R6.
I believe these timing advances are still a little on the conservative side, however for good reason. The quality of fuels today is all over the map, with little to no consistency. Even with these bikes having a knock sensor, detonation at the higher end of the RPM band could be catastrophic.
According to the "stock" flash file, the secondary injectors are actually not used as much as I would have thought.
Now I will admit, just my first impression of the device was not very good. A lack of documentation and software is my issue. First of all there is no documentation, no online help, no help files, and no software included at all. You can download the software, however, you must be connected to the internet to complete the install. The install file you download is only a ~ 400 kbs, then it downloads 22 MB. THen on top of this, the install purposely "hides" the program on your computer to try and prevent you from locating the files to even "create" an offline backup of this software. Perhaps I'm overly paranoid, but after shelling out the money for something that is somewhat "untested" I want to be sure I can still use this device even if the company goes under, or their web site goes off line. I was able to procure an off line version of the program, which is the only reason I did not return the device before even trying it.
This advice has tons of potential to anyone willing to take the time to adjust and tweak it as needed. However I believe they are more marketing this towards people who just want to import a Power Commmander map and are happy enough with a "in the ball park" tune. As we all know, downloaded maps are not an ideal setup.
Now I actually typed up a list of questions that I had and called Flash-Tune to ask them. After a couple phone calls I believe I reasonably understand how this thing works, and what the settings do, despite a complete lack of documentation.
First lets start with the main screen, which is probably all most users would ever use.
Select ECU Base Map File - These are maps you've created, and maps they include. The include the stock ECM file, a pump gas, 91+ pump gas, and maps for two different types of race fuels.
Set YCC-T Throttle Options - This allows you to choose the stock throttle map, or the "race" map. The race throttle map can be edditted.
Reduce Engine Braking - This reduces the braking effect that letting all the throttle has. The max setting just about makes the bike feel like it's coasting when you letting off the throttle rather than slowing down quickly. This can take some getting used to, as reduced engine braking can help prevent unsettling the suspension in the curves, however it's amazing how much you can rely on the engine braking to slow you down.
High Load (TPS) FUel Map Bias - This is where you choose how soon the bike switches to the high load map. When you move to the right of "stock" it will change to a percentage. This percentage is a TPS value at which the high load map takes over. At stock this point can be random, as it's a calculated value. Going all the way to the left will result in only the "low load" map being used, which is NOT recommended. Going full right will actually disable the O2 sensor, and the low load map. This means the high load map is being used all the time.
Import Power Commander 3 or 5 Fuel Table - This is where you can import a power commander map into the ECM. This only changes the high load map. The low load map remains untouched. The software actually does a pretty good job of converting the maps over and blending the values into the high load maps from what I've seen so far.
Cooling Fan - This lets you change the point at which your cooling fan turns on.
YCC-I Intake - Lets you adjust the RPM for the YCC Intake. (08+ models)
Quickshifter - This is for enabling the quick shifter on the ECM. (Additonal parts and harness required)
US Model - I believe this actually has to do with the immobilizer, but I need to verify this!
Disable EXUP - Disables the EXUP valve.
RevLimiter - Adjust the rev limiter RPM.
Idle Speed - Adjust the idle speed.
Once you have selected the options, "Flash Wizard" walks you through the process of flashing. These steps must be performed in the correct order.
-Disconnect both connectors from the ECM
-Plug flash interface into the computer
-Connect the device to a 12 volt power supply
-Plug flash interface into the ECU.
-Flashing takes 3-5 minutes.
Ok across the top you'll notice the drop down box that says "Viewing", this is where you can go to edit the maps prior to flashing. Again since there is no documentation and the titles are less than meaningful, I had to rely on my phone discussion with Flash Tune.
Fuel Map Load vs RPM - This is the low load fuel map.
On both these maps, you can select areas to increase or decrease. There is also a "blend" feature similar to using the Bazzaz software, however from the little I've tried it, it works much better. Editting these maps is similar to editting a map in the Power Commander or Bazzaz software. At the top you can change from viewing "actual value" to view as a percentage, which will let you see things in a format consistent with the Power Commander and Bazzaz software (viewing percentages of increase or decrease over stock).
Ignition Timing deg BTDC - This one is actaully self explainatory, just ignition timing. Be extremely careful when modifing values in here, I would not recommend making changes with a complete understanding of what you are doing. I would strongly recommend you use a pre-set map that included with the software.
As for using the device it's pretty straight forward. However first realize there are some risks. You are flashing to the memory of the ECM, and should something go wrong, you may have a completely destroyed, unusable ECM. This is not the time to use an unreliable machine. Also the flash interface comes with alligator clips on the end for you to clip to the battery for a 12+ volt supply. I'm going to strongly recommend you go ahead and use a regular 2-wire connector. Most bikes use standard 2-wire trailer plugs for battery tenders. This is a perfect way to hook the interface into a power source without worrying about an alligator clip jumping off the battery mid flash (possibly destroying your ECM).
As for getting to the ECM the only thing you need to do is remove the seat, nothing else needs to be removed.
Ok I tried several different things while flashing my ECM, and came up with what worked best for me. First thing I did was take my current PCV map, along with the AT trims and accept all the trims. Now I only took the 3RD gear map, as this is generally what is recommended tuning with when using a YEC ECM. Using all my previous dyno runs, I manually leaned out the spot in the map where I had a known "false positive" lean area. This had to be leaned out because the AT suggests adding so much fuel to that spot (~5000-6000 RPM). I also richened up two weird "leaner" humps that I found in every run I made (~10000-11000 and ~13000-14000). The final result was the map I imported into the flash tune software. One thing to note here though, if your PCV map has maps for each gear, the flash tune software only uses the 1st gear map, so you will need to transfer the 3rd gear map to 1st to make sure it is imported into the flash tune software.
I did use the PumpGas91+ for some increased timing, and the changes to the injector proportioning map. YCC-T Throttle options, obviously I selected "Race" settings. For engine braking, I found for the street I prefer stock settings.
For the high load map bias, I actually chose to entirely disable the low load fuel map and O2 sensor. For one with my AT it is always changing my map to achieve the settings I set, so it is constantly making changes while the bike is busy flipping between two different maps.
I don't see any point to turning on the cooling fans sooner, so I left those alone. I also left the rev limiter alone, I do NOT recommend changing this.
I did zero out all the trims and all fuel maps on my PCV and AT.
After the flash I did notice I expierence the same increased idle, I've read many complaints about. It's not out of control, but your idle will increase with the "race" throttle map. I attempted to set the idle speed using the options to do so and reflash, however the idle will still not idle at the point you set. Generally it seems the bike will idle 200-300 RPM higher than whatever you choose under idle speed.
However I will say the bike feels much better after the flash. It feels like it pulls harder. However to prevent any sort of placebo effect, I plan on making a few passes at the local track to try and quantify any changes or improvements (as soon as it warms up some). I did try a few hard launches and the bike didn't want to bog down anymore when I wasn't perfect with slipping the clutch.
I will say so far, this setup seems to be working very well. After checking the trim section in my AT, I'm primarily getting 0-4% changes recommended, but the majority of the chart is 0s so far. Meaning with the bike not flipping back and forth between maps seems to be working quite well.
So who is this recommended for? I would say anyone could use this, beginners are going to have a bit of a learning curve. This has several advantages over a Power Commander (and Bazzaz for that matter).
-No extra devices, or wiring to install or run.
-Reduced Weight (not that a PCV is heavy)
-Controls all 8 injectors (unlike the PCV only doing 4, without the SFM) (Bazzaz does all 8)
-Install is much easier
-Frees up throttle restrictions.
-Allows increase in ignition timing.
-Supports quick shifter
-Allows changes that could be dangerous.
-Flashing anything can be potentially risky. (Reasonably safe, but should something go wrong you could lose an ECM)
-More tuning options can result in a steeper learning curve to new users
-Complete lack of documentation, or help files from manufacturer. (At least the folks at Flash Tune are willing to help answer questions when you call them)
-Attempts to "hide" program to prevent the user from backing up software.
-Users are essentially the beta testers of a device that is still under development.
Despite all the risks, the advantages are very clear. However users must realize that just importing a Power Commander map won't result in a perfect running bike. This is just like a Power Commander or Bazzaz unit, you must tune it to your exact bike, a downloaded map won't be right.
Wow, thanks so much man I just ordered the flashing interface for my GF's 09 R6 and a few other friends that want me to flash their bikes. I've made my autotune "portable" so I can swap it between their bikes and make a full 3rd gear map to dump into the ECU
Your writeups are amazing!!! Thanks again.
I will post up results when I flash my GF's bike and other peoples as well.
One question, with the throttle blade map, why does it not open 100% at the lower RPM's when at WOT?
So you could flash a friends ecm and it would be the same as if they bought it?
You got it! With the flash interface you can flash any R6 from 2006 to 2011 and any 2007 or 2008 R1
Only problem is, if they did major mods (full system, etc.) they'd have to come back to YOU for a tune, as most dyno shops don't have the interface to update the map in the ECU.
EDIT: In case that last sentence doesn't make sense. If they did a major mod and need re-tuning, they could go to a dyno shop and they would make him a power commander map file. He brings his bike and that map file to you (or just his ECU) and you flash that power commander map into the ECU to correct the tuning
Last edited by toysareforboys; 04-28-2012 at 12:36 AM.
So basically I could get this and then have it pay for it self..
I've been reading a lot about them lately and plan to have mine flashed. I just wanna learn more about tunning before I pull the trigger.
Go fast parts:
Pipercross race filter, Leo sbk slip on, 05 header mod, pcv, bauce racing ecu flash, agg smog block offs, quick turn throttle, 520 rk gxw chain -1-1 renthal sprockets, ebc hh pads
, Shorai battery.
Robby moto sbk rearsets, woodcraft clip ons & sliders, armor bodies sbk fairings, db screen, vortex v3 gas cap, keyless ignition mod, agg sbk res kit,