hey all. how goes the battle? i currently have a foot of snow on the ground and im already going a little bit crazy so its time to start thinking about the winters build list.
recently ive been thinking about shedding some weight from my 2003 r6. it is my dedicated track bike and has the usual done to it. ohlins rear shock, braking front rotors, vortex clipons, aluminum front fairing stay, vortex rear sets, aluminum case covers, no fans, limited switch gear, akra stainless exhaust, race bodywork and i run limited fuel during races. i am by no means a fast guy but i run mid pack in intermediate at my home town race track.
i was looking into getting a lighter rear brake disc, and was wondering what most of you are using? the rear doesnt get used so the lighter the better, haha.
do you guys know what the lightest front brake disc is thats on an affordable level?
was also thinking about getting a ballistic or some other light weight battery. im not a fan of how you have to balance the cells in most of them but i guess thats something you have to deal with isnt it haha. i had an idea to instead of running the battery during the race, just make pigtails coming from under my seat and using the battery to start the bike then removing it. would the stator be able to keep up? i know when my last battery was on the frits my gauges would flicker and turn on and off, even though the bike seemed to run fine. i never ran it on the track though in that condition so im not sure if it would work.
i have also looked for a lighter rear subframe, but havent found much. anything i did find wasnt in stock anyways! haha.
have any of you eliminated the starter all together on your r6's? that would be a decent about of weight when you remove all of the heavy wireing aswell. i know of a guy who has done this on an r1 and i believe he removed his stator aswell. in that case would you have to run a battery and charge it between races then? as the bike wouldnt have anything to charge the battery?
i know the best thing you can do is reduce rotating mass. i usually use pirelli red stripes for practice and superbikes for races. they are the tires that seem to work best at our track. i just have a hard time spending 2gs on new wheels on a bike i got for less than that. lol.
anything else you guys are doing to lose weight? i have to sort of weigh the price vs weight differences out of course. i know the best weight loss is myself, but i am a prety light weight guy already. i am about 6' 155lbs or so. i have been bulking for a month now and will be cuting down in spring before the season starts. i hope to be back around 150 or so with much less body fat.
The owner usually garuntees his work.. Contact him and he will probably help you out..
Will do. Mine is the one with the volt meter on it and it shows this one pair of cells being lame. A quick jump in the AM and it'll start and run all day no problem, but I'm still sad about it since it's only been in use for a couple thousand miles.
I'll contact him to repair it so it's not a paperweight. I've got a couple 4 cell speed cells coming to me soon anyway. I'm over all the cheap alternatives. I need a reliable battery in my bike. Especially when it's on the grid for a pro event. I was biting my fcuking nails ALL weekend over this battery. Thank god I've got the 8 cell or I woulda been high and dry and looked like a real awesome sponsor at the AMA rounds I spent every dollar on.
most weight savings for the $ and time, is a Ballistic Battery.. but deal with the extra 1/2 pound or whatever and get an 8 cell not a 4 cell. They are still CRAZY light compared to an OEM battery and in over a year in both my bikes, i have never had to put a charger to them.
The rest is gonna be more money than the bike is seriously worth.. little things as noted in the post above? . have at it. knock yourself out
be warry of advancing the timing.. that should be determined by what FUEL you use, and how it performs on the dyno. With MR12 or most of the oxy fuels, you will find MORE power retarding the timing at higher rpms, NOT advancing. Just fyi. Yes, advance could help, but talk to a good tuner about what fuel benefits that ignition timing.
Slide stops. For sure. a must on this bike. as is a good tune.
most weight savings for the $ and time, is a Ballistic Battery.. but deal with the extra 1/2 pound or whatever and get an 8 cell not a 4 cell. They are still CRAZY light compared to an OEM battery and in over a year, i have never had to put a charger on it.
The rest is gonna be more money than the bike is seriously worth.. little things as noted in the post above? . have at it. knock yourself out
be warry of advancing the timing.. that should be determined by what FUEL you use, and how it performs on the dyno. With MR12 or most of the oxy fuels, you will find MORE power retarding the timing at higher rpms, NOT advancing. Just fyi. Yes, advance could help, but talk to a good tuner about what fuel benefits that ignition timing.
Slide stops. For sure. a must on this bike. as is a good tune.
MR12 is such low octane that advancing 4 degrees could lead to detonation easily. I'm sure that's why you make more power retarding it. It allows you to take advantage of the more flammable fuel that is also jam packed with oxygen. While I've seen plenty of bone stock newer higher compression R6's run it, and pickup a 2-4 HP from MR9 alone, I would never advise on a 4 degree advance running it.
And I'd buy anything other than a ballistic battery IMO. Preferably something that isn't ridiculously marked up and less quality to allow the HUGE margins parts unlimited requires... I'll make far less margins, if any selling speed cell anyday over ballistic. And I do this solely on the premises that I sell what I stand behind.
MR12 is such low octane that advancing 4 degrees could lead to detonation easily. I'm sure that's why you make more power retarding it. It allows you to take advantage of the more flammable fuel that is also jam packed with oxygen. While I've seen plenty of bone stock newer higher compression R6's run it, and pickup a 2-4 HP from MR9 alone, I would never advise on a 4 degree advance running it.
And I'd buy anything other than a ballistic battery IMO. Preferably something that isn't ridiculously marked up and less quality to allow the HUGE margins parts unlimited requires... I'll make far less margins, if any selling speed cell anyday over ballistic. And I do this solely on the premises that I sell what I stand behind.
yes! and don't just read the motor octane of MR12 on the website.. (go to the SPECS sheet!) that is a rating most of us are NOT familiar with. The octane rating by what most of us recognize pump gas by, R+M/2 is 93 ..87 octane shown on the VP site is a different method of octane rating used in race fuels.
i honestly could care less what the markup is on a Ballistic battery.. they are comparable in price to other lightweight batteries, and work. not saying others don't, but I know these do the job. One of the biggest issues with people having issues with l.w. batteries, is using a regular charger on them overnight or way too long. You don't charge these more than 45 minutes.. ever.
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