so I’ve been riding my 06 R6 on the track for a year now. I have about 15 track days under my belt and I run a pretty quick intermediate pace. im wanting to upgrade my suspension during the off season but am not sure which route to go. keep in mind im 6'1" and weight 225lbs with gear. I wanted to ask the opinion on what I should do in terms of upgrades. should I just re-valve and re-spring the current front a rear shocks or make the jump to an Ohlin’s, elka, Penske, Etc. if money was no option I would obviously put on the most expensive but im don’t think I would get my money’s worth out of it due to my skill level.
I am in the same position and my buddy that raced told me just to have the stock forks/shock refreshed. I met him half way and ended up refreshing the forks, but picked up an Ohlins shock.
I only weigh a little less than you so I can say if you are going to freshen up the front, spend the little bit of extra cash and get springs for your weight and valves. As for the rear, I've decided to wait until I can afford a nice aftermarket shock.
I would talk to Dave Moss about it since you run the local tracks to the Bay I assume. I would upgrade to a penske double clicker in the rear and do a piston kit in the front, You can probably get out the door for close to $1k if you source the shock used and have it refreshed (if it isnt already).
Im about the same size as you though, 6', 215lbs and I was able to fairly comfortably run A pace on street tires with just a good setup from Dave and 10wt maxima oil in the forks.
I would talk to Dave Moss about it since you run the local tracks to the Bay I assume. I would upgrade to a penske double clicker in the rear and do a piston kit in the front, You can probably get out the door for close to $1k if you source the shock used and have it refreshed (if it isnt already).
Im about the same size as you though, 6', 215lbs and I was able to fairly comfortably run A pace on street tires with just a good setup from Dave and 10wt maxima oil in the forks.
I just did this last month as per your recommendation Steph if you remember and the front end is definately stiffer just from trying to bounce the forks up and down. I won't be able to test them out anytime soon though.
I'd say freshen the components and get the baseline set. Then go from there. After market components will be superior to OEM, but if you can attain proper settings and feedback, why spend a ton of cash you could be spending on track days and tires?
We just did a live web cast with Dave Moss last night (7 November 2012) on the R1-Forum, and Dave and I are talking about putting one together for the R6-Forum for next Wednesday. If we do it, it will be four one hour sessions per month, where Dave present model specific information for about 30 minutes, and then we have questions and answers with him for 30 minutes. I'll post an announcement when I hear back from Dave Moss on the R6-Forum. But we had a really great time last night and everyone learned a lot. Could be a prime opportunity to ask your questions.
I run mid paced advanced, and good Amateur race times on stock suspension. Setup is key but stock can take you pretty far by itself. A fresh suspension that is tuned properly will get you through most of next year even if you are progressing great. Will you have better feel from aftermarket...probably....is it worth the cost? up to you.
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2010 YZF-R6 Blue Street Cruiser
thanks for the input everyone. as of now i think i will just revalve\repsring the front. as for the rear ill check the cost from my local shops on a rebuild and then compare it to what i can get an aftermarket for. who should i contact on the forums for good deals on shocks?
also, if i were to redo the front forks now and leave the back as is till i decide\incure the initial cost, would it make a big difference? or is it best to do it all at once.
thanks for the input everyone. as of now i think i will just revalve\repsring the front. as for the rear ill check the cost from my local shops on a rebuild and then compare it to what i can get an aftermarket for. who should i contact on the forums for good deals on shocks?
also, if i were to redo the front forks now and leave the back as is till i decide\incure the initial cost, would it make a big difference? or is it best to do it all at once.
you should expect to pay $100-150 to freshen up a shock, and $125-200 for freshening up forks provided no parts (no seals, bushings, bladder, etc.) fork springs are about $80 each? (not positive) shock springs are $90 for basic standard springs to $150-200 for race springs (tested to be exactly the rate indicated on the spring) or fancy metal springs (ti).
revalving forks? DanQ may be able to say to simply revalve stock forks, drop in cartridge kits may be $800-1300?
i would service/spring the forks before the shock if you really don't want to do both.. fork oil gets "dirty" faster than shock oil as forks move 1:1 for every bump-undulation and have more surface area exposed. shocks due to linkage, don't move as much, and have much less area exposed to the elements.
shocks are gonna cost $850 for basic 2 clicker penske to $1100-$1300 for a top-of-line ohlins or JRi shock. you can sometimes find decent deals on used shocks on race forums like WERA or CCS forums. I sold both my ohlins ttx shocks very quickly for $800 each. they were a couple seasons old, but serviced each season.
want - vs. - need
you should expect to pay $100-150 to freshen up a shock, and $125-200 for freshening up forks provided no parts (no seals, bushings, bladder, etc.) fork springs are about $80 each? (not positive) shock springs are $90 for basic standard springs to $150-200 for race springs (tested to be exactly the rate indicated on the spring) or fancy metal springs (ti).
revalving forks? DanQ may be able to say to simply revalve stock forks, drop in cartridge kits may be $800-1300?
i would service/spring the forks before the shock if you really don't want to do both.. fork oil gets "dirty" faster than shock oil as forks move 1:1 for every bump-undulation and have more surface area exposed. shocks due to linkage, don't move as much, and have much less area exposed to the elements.
shocks are gonna cost $850 for basic 2 clicker penske to $1100-$1300 for a top-of-line ohlins or JRi shock. you can sometimes find decent deals on used shocks on race forums like WERA or CCS forums. I sold both my ohlins ttx shocks very quickly for $800 each. they were a couple seasons old, but serviced each season.
want - vs. - need
Pretty much along the lines of any advice I'd offer.
Like Greg said; it really starts with the springs. If you can get the sag within the range needed, then most things will fall into place fairly well. If you need to make a significant change in springs, I would highly recommend the valving be addressed to control the newer spring rate.
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