Stalling when slowing/downshifting to stop - Mech Help?

[Brewhaha]

OK so before I begin, I have read over about 30 different posts and now I wanted to get some opinions.

2006 R6 Raven (9k miles)
The only mod I have done to my bike is ASV levers.

My idle is consistent at about 1,250 RPMs. No odd smells, no leaks, no noises.

My issue is when I am riding and coming from (30-50mph to a stop), downshifting using combination of engine and brakes my RPMs will drop to Zero. This issue started happening after I put these levers on and did my last oil change (1 week ago). I checked my oil level and it is exactly where it should be, and I am using the correct oil. The only idea I can come up with is that my clutch isn't disengaging properly causing drag and its stalling from improper adjustment? When the bike stalls out I can engage the clutch lever and turn it over without hesitation. It doesn't stall every time, but it does do it often. Any Ideas?

TIA!

[natedogg624]

is it mechanically stalling or electronically stalling?

my educated guess would be a failing clutch switch.

[Brewhaha]

After reading more posts on several different bikes, I'm starting to think the same thing. I'm not 100% sure if its mechanical or electrical. I don't even notice it died until I let out on the clutch half the time and feel the rear tire start to lock up.

[Brewhaha]

Im going to re adjust my clutch cable, im hoping this is the issue. It would sorta make sense since i didnt have the issue until i switched levers.

[xantonin]

Originally Posted by Brewhaha

Im going to re adjust my clutch cable, im hoping this is the issue. It would sorta make sense since i didnt have the issue until i switched levers.

Lift the back of your bike and try starting it in gear without pulling in the clutch. It shouldn't start.

If it does, then it's your clutch switch. Check under your clutch lever to make sure it's engaging it proper. It might just need to be adjusted.

[Brewhaha]

OK here is an update. I tried all of the things listed above and even took my bike to a performance shop. They were convinced that they had it fixed after multiple runs on the dyno.

-Bike will not start without pulling clutch in unless in neutral. (rules out the clutch switch afaik)
-Had oil serviced again
-Fresh 93 octane fuel
-Had new NGks installed
-New Airfilter (last one was nasty dirty)
-Had throttle bodies aligned/adjusted

While cruising at highway speed I can pull the clutch to coast and it will drop to idle speed perfectly. No dipping below at all. Braking will cause stalls as soon as I start downshifting/using engine braking. This isnt every time. If im under 5k most of the time it wont stall as long as I let the engine slow down to near stalling rpms before I engage the clutch lever. Anything above 5k to stopping will stall just about every time. most of the time the way I actually notice is because my headlight will cutout while downshifting.



cliff notes: Bike still stalls when coming to stop. Had all obvious things looked over. No codes on diagnostic mode.

[natedogg624]

Just because you can't start in gear without the clutch doesn't necessarily rule out the clutch switch which I'm still 95% sure is the culprit here. The switch is not necessarily a closed open switch, there is a voltage reading that the cpu uses.

From one of the smartest Yamaha guys I e-know -

Here is what the ECU does. The ECU monitors pin #6(large connector), that is tied into the clutch switch circuit. That pin can get a ground through the clutch switch (closed, clutch pulled) and sidestand switch (closed, up position) or the neutral switch. At higher RPMS with closed throttle, when that pins voltage is high (open circuit) the ECU will activate its decel funnction and hold YCCT open for less engine braking as the RPM's drop it will revert to a normal position (the switch over has changed over the years). During decel the ECU will also cut off the injectors (EPA junk). During closed throttle decel the rear wheel is powering the engine, when the clutch is pulled, the ECU gets a ground on pin 6 which indicates - normal idle, injectors fire everything works great. This also happens in neutral.

Without the clutch switch functioning as you decelerate the rear wheel is keeping the engine running, you pull in the clutch and RPM's drop very quickly (remeber little or no fuel) and the engine will stall before the ECU can correct a low RPM condition.

link

I wasn't able to start in gear without clutch, but it was still the clutch switch that fixed this problem. It's a cheap switch, I'd change it out.

[Lucky3623]

Put it into diagnostic mode and see if it throws any codes.