who has done or checked valves on R6's? what mileage did you check and what did you find on the first check?
Reason i am asking, i have an 05 R6 with 10k miles, motor is out of the bike so i thought id check the valves, did it by the book with each piston at TDC verified and with cam lobes facing out away from one another like book said. Buttt with only 10k miles on my bike all of my exhaust valves are to tight and 4 out of the 8 intakes are tight also, the other 4 intakes are in the preferred location of .15
that leads me to believe i did it 100% correct but only having 10k miles im not sure why i would have so many valves tight. bike has had a stock pipe on it its whole life till i got it 2k miles ago and seemed to be babied as its literally showroom clean.
Cyl #1 Ex .203 .203 IN .152 .152
Cyl #2 EX .203 .203 IN .127 .127
Cyl #4 EX .203 .203 IN .152 .127
Cyl #3 EX .229 .203 IN .152 .127
you say the bike is 'showroom clean'.. imho that just means someone took the time to make it look good.
do you know for sure the bike was not raced/tracked from its first mili on the odo?
It is odd that you would have so many tight valves, and quite a bit out.
When i checked it on my old 03 it had almost 30k on it, with a few trackdays, and not 1 was OT.
It sounds like you did check them correctly, but if you still have it apart, have another go at it to be sure, then just replace what needs replacing and pat yourself on the back from preventing some damage.
thanks guys, i am going to double check it this afternoon again to be sure but nearly 100% i did it all right, thats what struck me as odd is everyone says the valves are usually good at those 25-30k intervals and at 10 mines not.
this is like my 15th bike so i know what im lookin for when buying bikes and theres noway this has 2 or 3 times the mileage on it im very sure of that. i worked for a yamaha dealer for some time and have seen bikes in the showroom not as clean as this one is, not to say it couldnt have been riden very hard or high rpms without up shifting so idk what could have caused it but im gonna go ahead and double check then get them adjusted to fall in the middle of that spec range. this is my second 05 R6 first one had 1800 miles on it when i bought it in 06 and this bike rides tighter all around with 8800 miles on it then when i got it. i've owned this one from 8800-10400
Odd Ryan just changed his around 10k BC they were out of spec. I did mine at 25k miles and they were quit a bit to tight.
why do they get tighter? Spring loosening up?
__________________ mods: woodcraft clipons and frame sliiders, leo vince slip on, 05 header mod, pcv, agg smog block offs and sbk res kit, robby moto sbk rearsets, 520 -1+2 renthal.set up, bauce racing ecu flash, ebc hh pads, and some small cosmetic stuff.
Odd Ryan just changed his around 10k BC they were out of spec. I did mine at 25k miles and they were quit a bit to tight.
why do they get tighter? Spring loosening up?
valve clearance gets smaller between the bucket and camshaft, because the valve stem comes UP as a valve wears.. have to picture in your mind the head with the valve train. A valve face wears, it flattens and mushrooms a bit, so the valve moves UP into the valve seat of the cylinder head. As a result, the distance between the bucket on top of the spring/retainers/keepers, move up toward the camshaft lobe.
Run em long enough, and there will be ZERO clearance, and you don't get the valve even sealing against the cylinder head valve seat.. loss of compression, hard starting, etc. because the valve is held OPEN a tiny amount.
no way should a 10k bike have tight valves.. but then how does a bike that is 7 years old (nearly 8) only have 10k on it?
and MY question is why is the motor out??
valve clearance gets smaller between the bucket and camshaft, because the valve stem comes UP as a valve wears.. have to picture in your mind the head with the valve train. A valve face wears, it flattens and mushrooms a bit, so the valve moves UP into the valve seat of the cylinder head. As a result, the distance between the bucket on top of the spring/retainers/keepers, move up toward the camshaft lobe.
Run em long enough, and there will be ZERO clearance, and you don't get the valve even sealing against the cylinder head valve seat.. loss of compression, hard starting, etc. because the valve is held OPEN a tiny amount.
no way should a 10k bike have tight valves.. but then how does a bike that is 7 years old (nearly 8) only have 10k on it?
and MY question is why is the motor out??
Got ya makes sense
__________________ mods: woodcraft clipons and frame sliiders, leo vince slip on, 05 header mod, pcv, agg smog block offs and sbk res kit, robby moto sbk rearsets, 520 -1+2 renthal.set up, bauce racing ecu flash, ebc hh pads, and some small cosmetic stuff.
.. and the problem with lots of hours on valve springs, and the reason you replace valve springs (especially in race motors) is the risk of valve float at high rpm. There is a minimum spec length for springs indicated in the manaual, but if you are spending $60+ per valve to rebuild an engine, it's silly to not spend $9 or so per spring as well. If a spring wears, at high rpm, it may not pull the valve up as fast as it should. The piston is on it's way up and if the valve is a tad late in getting back to the head seat they make contact.. bad. not good. One time when you really need good springs is if you mistakenly downshift when you should go up, or down shift too many gears too fast and dump the clutch. There is NO rev limiter for overrev by way of downshifts.. if the slipper clutch doesn't slip enough, you could theoretically have an engine go beyond 16,000rpm. that is one surefire way to end up with broken valves and and expensive rebuild on a "to do" list.
valve clearance gets smaller between the bucket and camshaft, because the valve stem comes UP as a valve wears.. have to picture in your mind the head with the valve train. A valve face wears, it flattens and mushrooms a bit, so the valve moves UP into the valve seat of the cylinder head. As a result, the distance between the bucket on top of the spring/retainers/keepers, move up toward the camshaft lobe.
Run em long enough, and there will be ZERO clearance, and you don't get the valve even sealing against the cylinder head valve seat.. loss of compression, hard starting, etc. because the valve is held OPEN a tiny amount.
no way should a 10k bike have tight valves.. but then how does a bike that is 7 years old (nearly 8) only have 10k on it?
and MY question is why is the motor out??
if you saw the bike i think youd believe its only got 10k but one of those things ya never know, i see bikes around here all the time with well under 10k miles that are 5-10 years old, i live in NY and we dont ride from October to April or so. Motor is out of the bike because im having the entire frame subframe swingarm rims and etc all powdercoated thats all, bike is absolutely mint in every way shape or form, its my second 05 R6, first one had 1800 miles on it and this bike feels just as tight overall, who knows maybe i got a fluke tighter engine but glad im getting in to do it now instead of waiting another 10k.
One time when you really need good springs is if you mistakenly downshift when you should go up, or down shift too many gears too fast and dump the clutch. There is NO rev limiter for overrev by way of downshifts.. if the slipper clutch doesn't slip enough, you could theoretically have an engine go beyond 16,000rpm. that is one surefire way to end up with broken valves and and expensive rebuild on a "to do" list.
Linear Mode
