Adjusting geometry?

[Brzrkr]

So I'm trading for a 2004 R6 and I had a question regarding suspension geometry (correct me if I'm missing anything).

The bike is stock suspension-wise with the exception of the front being lowered by an inch. It handles pretty phenomenally and I wanted to find out before I messed with ride height what changes that would make to the handling vs. the stock geometry/ride height.

I want to find out what I will be changing first by returning the front forks height to stock before I consider taking it to a suspension guy. I don't think I'll need to adjust sag, rebound and compression much from what I experienced on my test ride.

Also, side question, is it possible to take the front end from a 2005 and put it on a 2004? any fabrication required?

[Fallis]

Are you sure it's only lowered in the front? And by an inch?

Is it possible they just moved the clip-ons to be underneath the triple clamps? In stock form, they're on top of the triple clamps, and then the forks will be flush with the top of the clip-on clamp.

I'd expect lowering the front by an inch (25mm), with no other changes would make the bike extremely twitchy. Normally you make changes on the order of 3-5mm if you're looking to make the bike turn in faster, or account for a taller tire.

[Brzrkr]

I asked him if he had done anything to the suspension i.e. parts or lowering and what not. He said it was completely stock save for lowering it one inch on the front. I'm not sure what measurements that I have to make to determine what is stock etc.

I do know that on my 2001 when I asked the suspension guru at the track to reset my geometry to stock to account for a 120/70 he said he had to adjust it by 10mm. I have started to pick up on sag, compression and rebound thanks to DanQ's guide, but I'm not quite up to scratch in knowledge on geometry and ride height.

[DanQ]

If the clip ons are still on top of the triple, flush the tubes with the clip ons, set sag to your desired range, and ride for a while. 25mm drop is too much in my opinion. She will shake like a beast if it gets out of shape.

If you are running 120/70 on the front you can pull them through about 4-6mm, but really don't need more than that to accommodate for the tire change. The laden height of the tire didn't change by that much.

Just my opinions though.

[Brzrkr]

I'll have to take another look when I pick up the bike. I think the clipons are on top but I'll double check everything.

[Brzrkr]

well, never mind, he sold the bike from under me. but I can pick up my 150 holders from him from across the state -_-

Either way it's good to try to understand what it's changing.

So if I lower the front, it makes the steering more sensitive?

[ChiefSmokeDawg]

Originally Posted by Brzrkr

well, never mind, he sold the bike from under me. but I can pick up my 150 holders from him from across the state -_-

Either way it's good to try to understand what it's changing.

So if I lower the front, it makes the steering more sensitive?

It makes the bike turn sharper and requires less lean angle.

You would have needed to adjust your sag and settings afterwards all the way around the bike as well. That much of a rake/forward pitch transfers much more weight vs the correct ride height.

Low in the front is nice on the street sometimes. I had my 02 like 5mm too low in the front and loved it till I got to the track with it.

Raising the front up will make the bike run wider on the exits of turns when you're on the gas the front decompresses much more and you allow it to extend to a taller ride height and the bike goes wider and turns less sharp, and requires more lean angle.

Twitchiness, constant bar input, and things like that are a tell tale sign of a low front end whether it be sag or ride height.