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R6 FAQ, Fuel Controllers, Exhaust, Maps

336K views 456 replies 90 participants last post by  BigBoyMoto 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
R6 FAQ - (Updated 11-26-14)

This thread is a work in progress; it hopefully will answer any question about the 06+ R6 Exhaust and Fuel Controllers and even contains PCV, PCIII, and Bazzaz Maps.

The Cliff Notes for those that don't want to read. Although I strongly recommend you take the time to read the sections below.

Section I - Fuel Controllers

Section II - Maps

Section III - Exhaust 06+

Section IV - PCV and Software

Section V - PCV AutoTune

Section VI - FlashTune Flash Interface

Section VII - Installs

Section VIII - R6 Maintenance

Section IX - Sprockets and Chains

Section X - Suspension
- Suspension Settings
 
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#36 ·
First I would like to thank you for all the work, it really helped me a lot!

I just finished the welding and painting today and welded the MJS mid-pipe onto my stock headers. It runs terrible now without power commander so i'm planning to buy one this week. I have a question about the MJS map you provided. I now run everything stock so stock air filter and slip-on just deleted the big box and the cat. Can I use this MJS map? I don't know what this map includes but hope you can help me out.
 
#37 ·
Due to all the variables you'll probably still have to try a few maps and see what you like best. Technically that MJS map, was done for a MJS Header, GYTR slip on, aftermarket air filter. However most people find the MJS map works well for them, even with just the mid-pipe.
 
#38 · (Edited)
Great work out there ... descriptive and informative with a nice pictorial representation.

Couple of questions :

1. You posted maps for the Bazzaz unit on your post #3. Which year R6 is it for? Because, on the Bazzaz website there is no map for the Graves System. My bike is 07 R6 with Graves System. [Reason : I had maps for 91 and 98 gas on a built motor which is destroyed now and i am using a stock motor. I just want to use the selftune Z-AFM to start with, but wanted a base map to compare]

2. I plan to have a standby exhaust system with the stock header, stock can (as you described).[due to sound restriction at one of the local track]. In another thread [http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r6-maintenance-technical/158716-05-header-07-r6-complete.html] it is not mentioned to enlarge the flange holes, but other posts i see folks enlarging? Also, if i use the MJS header OR stock header with mid-pipe and buy a stock can, can i just eliminate the EXUP servo motor installed on the can [I currently have Graves system and my ECU is reflashed, so it should not throw any code]. I just need a "quieter" exhaust system.

3. When installing smog block-off plates, the reed valve "fins/plates" held by one screw need to be removed. Also there is a grate underneath it, that need to be removed too. I didnt see it mention in your HOW-TO.
 
#40 ·
1. You posted maps for the Bazzaz unit on your post #3. Which year R6 is it for? Because, on the Bazzaz website there is no map for the Graves System. My bike is 07 R6 with Graves System. [Reason : I had maps for 91 and 98 gas on a built motor which is destroyed now and i am using a stock motor. I just want to use the selftune Z-AFM to start with, but wanted a base map to compare]
Those Bazzaz maps where converted from the PCV maps straight from the DynoJet website.

2. I plan to have a standby exhaust system with the stock header, stock can (as you described).[due to sound restriction at one of the local track]. In another thread [http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r6-maintenance-technical/158716-05-header-07-r6-complete.html] it is not mentioned to enlarge the flange holes, but other posts i see folks enlarging? Also, if i use the MJS header OR stock header with mid-pipe and buy a stock can, can i just eliminate the EXUP servo motor installed on the can [I currently have Graves system and my ECU is reflashed, so it should not throw any code]. I just need a "quieter" exhaust system.
Most say the holes do need to be slightly enlarged. I have come across a couple people say they did not need to though. Enlarging the holes isn't that big of a deal though. I will be adding that into the FAQ though, as I meant to mention it. Thanks!

If you use an MJS header or mid-pipe with a stock slip-on your bike will be pretty loud. (If you use the stock header with the muffler (box underneath the bike) still on it wont be that loud, obviously.) The factory slip on does not really muffle anything, it just houses the EXUP, which helps with low end power (Except I'm guessing you have a YEC since you said the ECU is reflashed, will the YEC still support the EXUP?). Yes you can remove it from the stock slip-on though if you wish. Leaving the cables off will cause the valve to stay open (it has a spring on it), removing it from the slip on altogether is a bit more difficult.

3. When installing smog block-off plates, the reed valve "fins/plates" held by one screw need to be removed. Also there is a grate underneath it, that need to be removed too. I didnt see it mention in your HOW-TO.
Those don't need to be removed. You can remove them to help save shed a few more ounces, but they can be left in.
 
#39 ·
Wow looks like lots of good info! Will give it a read when I get home!

:cheers
 
#43 ·
WOW great info here!
Thank you OhioYJ!

Yesterday I've removed the stock can for a Racefit Growler supersport.
I was surprised that the sound didn't increase much...

So I'm now thinking what to do.......

If I leave the cats as original and only remove the big muffler, what will the sound do? I think the cats are also decrease the sound or not? So maybe with only remove the big muffler the sound is louder but not too loud......
And then it is not necessary to re-map the R6 or use a fuel controller?

Thanks!
 
#44 ·
The cat does quieten the exhaust down some, but not a ton. Removing the muffler will make the largest difference in the volume level of the exhaust, and performance.

Without a fuel controller there will always be a few weird spots throughout the RPM band, when you open up the exhaust that much. Leaving the O2 sensor in will help some. Lots of people run without the fuel controller for a while, but most end up admitting it and getting one eventually.
 
#48 ·
Ohio, what do the trims from the autotune do if they are not accepted?(I'm assuming they do nothing) And if I were to change base maps, should I delete the trims and start over?

I just had an autotune installed with block offs and I decided to give the akrapovic base map another shot, to see if the popping noise would stop. But I still get popping. Should I go back to the graves map? Or give the autotune some time to get a good average reading.


I plan on hooking the speed sensor wire up to the PCV like you said. Would this help with the poping noise?

Sorry for all the questions
 
#49 ·
Ohio, what do the trims from the autotune do if they are not accepted?(I'm assuming they do nothing)
They are doing exactly whatever they say. The PCV AutoTune is NOT like the Bazzaz unit. You don't have to accept the trims for them to be used. The trims are always being applied, it just won't adjust your base map until you accept the trims. I basically never accept the trims.

And if I were to change base maps, should I delete the trims and start over?
Yes, I don't recommend trying to use trims based off a different base map. Clear them and let it start over.

I just had an autotune installed with block offs and I decided to give the akrapovic base map another shot, to see if the popping noise would stop. But I still get popping. Should I go back to the graves map? Or give the autotune some time to get a good average reading.
What does your AFR target table look like? When does it pop, under acceleration or deceleration?

I plan on hooking the speed sensor wire up to the PCV like you said. Would this help with the popping noise?
Depends on why it is popping. Having separate maps for each gear makes a big difference, and keeps the AutoTune from having to constantly make wild adjustments to your map. I strongly recommend doing this.

Sorry for all the questions
Only way to learn is to ask questions.
 
#52 ·
Could you possibly send me your whole map so I could take a look at it? Or perhaps post of up pictures of fuel map and trims?

Those target AFRs are a little rich down low, but shouldn't be enough to cause that much of an issue. The smog block off plates should have eliminated a lot of the popping under decel. The rapid popping sound sounds weird, is it an actual pop, or more of a hesitation?
 
#53 · (Edited)
What base map would you recomend for k&n smog block offs clamp midpipe and gytr slip on?
Im getting alot of popping on decel cant really afford the auto tune or dyno time just yetbut will in the near future. Right now im using the m4 map.


also is there a way to add and take away fuel from my laptop?
 
#54 ·
What base map would you recomend for k&n smog block offs clamp midpipe and gytr slip on?
I would try the MJS map, a lot of people have good luck with that map with mid-pipes of any brand. Try both the standard map, and I have a richer version of it too you can try.

also is there a way to add and take away fuel from my laptop?
Yes, select the area you wish to change, by clicking and dragging with the mouse, or holding shift and using the arrow keys, then hit page up or page down to increase or decrease every value selected by 1. My recommendation when trying changes in that manner is to try increase by 4, decreases do by 2 and see what you get.
 
#56 ·
also while calibrating the tp it doesnt show and voltage change...what gives? even one d01 ....on another diag mode forgot what number but it went from 18-101...dont know if its different for an 09
 
#57 ·
I couldn't find the 09 FSM, but the 08 FSM still says 01 is the correct DIAG mode number says it should range from 12-21 - 97-106.

Looks like 13 14 and 15 are also TPS test functions.
 
#59 ·
So would you say that the Autotune would replace taking the bike to a tuner and having it run on a dyno? I won't have a HP chart but I should be running pretty optimum power?
That is correct. Since the AutoTune will adjust as needed your bike will always be running at an optimum point. And if you still really want the HP chart, you a dyno run is much cheaper than a dyno tune.

Dyno numbers are over rated anyways. It's more important that the bike runs well and feels good to you.
 
#60 ·
How does the Auotune exactly work? I'm running a map from the website now with my PC V but planning on buying the Autotune.

Do you still load a map in the PCV with autotune? Or does it come with presettings or something thats optimal for your bike and the auotune help to reach these settings?

If so, how do you know which are the optimal settings for my '08 for example
 
#61 ·
I would suggest running a base map, that way it will take the auto tune less time to make its adjustments. You will have to fill in the AFR target tables once auto tune is enabled. My suggestion would be to use one of the MJS maps with AFR targets I have posted in this FAQ.

I do have a richer version that makes slightly more power you can try if you want as well. PM me your email and I can send you two versions to try.
 
#62 ·
Any suggestions/alterations on the MJS maps or FA ratios for road race/track use? I have everything I need for my 2006 R6 so I'll be building throughout the winter... unfortunately won't have a chance to road test until the spring.

Super thanks cuz I know this will be a good starting point at the very least for the auto-tune. Awesome write up.
 
#63 ·
Any suggestions/alterations on the MJS maps or FA ratios for road race/track use?.
Usually on the track, a richer map would probably be better. I've found the leaner map seems to have better throttle response, but not as smooth as a richer map. With a richer map it's easier to smooth with the throttle in the corners. You can be smooth with the lean map just have to be more gentle with the throttle roll on. I prefer the lean map myself. Here is links to the "lean" and "rich" map so you can try both and see which you prefer:

OhioYJ said:
This is a basic map, with the AFR tables, 500 RPM resolution:

http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/bike/pcv_maps/MJS_AFR_500.pvm

Same map, with the AFR table, but uses separate maps for each gear, I strongly recommend setting the PCV up this way (in my opinion this is necessary) (250 rpm resolution on this one):

http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/bike/pcv_maps/MJS_AFR_Gear_250.pvm

This map is using much richer AFR targets. I've found this map to make roughly 0.5 - 1 HP more on the dyno. It is slightly smoother as well. However I've found these richer targets to be more temperamental to temperature changes and other environmental changes, and have since gone back to the "leaner" map (my lean map is still definitely on the safe side of rich).

http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/bike/pcv_maps/MJS_AFR_250_G_Richer.pvm

These are my AFR tables, this is the "leaner" map that I prefer:

http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/bike/afrmap.png

This was the "richer" AFR table:

http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/bike/dyno/newricherafr.png
 
#64 ·
Thanks, this write up is a HUGE help. So it's proven that the PCV w/ Autotune can work on a 2006/2007 R6.

Does anyone have any experience with the Secondary Fuel Module and/or Quick Shift Sensor on the 2006/2007 R6?
 
#65 ·
Works fine on my 2007.

My recommendation is do not use the Secondary Fuel Module for the Quick Shifter. The "correct" way to kill the motor for a quick shifter is using the ignition module. Cutting fuel is unreliable and can create dangerously lean conditions. The secondary fuel module is worth some low to mid-range power though. However it's not the recommended method to use the quick shifter.
 
#66 ·
somebody knows how to test the o2 sensor for the autotune kit. i believe my sensor is bad. it shows 14.85 at idle, but when i check the trim after several days of driving, it suggest to rich the A/F pretty much everywhere on the map.

so, lets say i start with a base map (like the one Ohioyj suggested with his A/F table). with the autotune set=up to 30% increase, 20% decrease. the trim will come out maxing at 30 almost everywhere and if i accept the changes and keep testing, it will keep suggesting me to increase the fuel until i lose the idle completed. it doesn't feel bad under WOT even though my map is on 40,60,80 across the the table.

i also tried to follow the instructions recomended by dynoyet to test the o2 sensor:

-remove the sensor and place to the ambient.
-power the sensor at least for 1 minute before the test
-then i press the test button on the autotune module.
-the light flash quickly then pause like it should, now i am suppose to count the number of flashes after the pause and compare it to a table on the instructions. but the light start blinking slowly and never stops :confused:.

any suggestions?????

BTW: i believe i have an exhaust leak. but it could be the o2 sensor too :(
 
#67 · (Edited)
somebody knows how to test the o2 sensor for the autotune kit. i believe my sensor is bad. it shows 14.85 at idle, but when i check the trim after several days of driving, it suggest to rich the A/F pretty much everywhere on the

i also tried to follow the instructions recomended by dynoyet to test the o2 sensor:

-remove the sensor and place to the ambient.
-power the sensor at least for 1 minute before the test
-then i press the test button on the autotune module.
-the light flash quickly then pause like it should, now i am suppose to count the number of flashes after the pause and compare it to a table on the instructions. but the light start blinking slowly and never stops

BTW: i believe i have an exhaust leak. but it could be the o2 sensor too :(
Don't accept any of those super rich trims, go back to an unaltered base map, as your map shouldn't be 60+ all over.

And exhaust leak can definitely cause the sensor to read improperly. You need to solve the exhaust leak as well. You do have smog block off plates right?

I've never used the self test function in the auto tune, but my understanding is the light should stop blinking then you check to see if the number of blinks vs your elevation is in the acceptable range. The 60 seconds they tell you to wait is critical, O2 sensors have to be a minimum temperature to read correctly, so it needs time to preheat itself. I would recommend you call dynojet and talk to there tech support, they are very helpful.

As already mentioned an exhuast leak will give you problems, if you already suspect this I would start there.
 
#68 ·
Question related to smog block off plates: does the air injection system need to be removed? Any problems/damage that might occur if you don't, or is it just a weight factor people consider?



From Bayside Performance:

Application: Yamaha R1 (2004-09) / R6 (2003-09) / R6S (2006-09)

Description: Graves Motorsports Smog Block Off Plates are designed to seal off the ports on the valve cover used by the air injection system (a.k.a smog pumps or AIS).

The air induction system (AIS) burns unburned exhaust gases by injecting fresh air (secondary air) into the exhaust port, reducing the emission of hydrocarbons.

Once these are capped off the air injection system can be safely removed. These Smog Block Off Plates are made from CNC'ed billet aluminum and feature the Graves Motorsports "G" logo. There are two reasons why you want to remove the air injection system from your bike;

* 1. If you are using your motorcycle on a closed course (racing, track days, etc.) you will want to remove all unnecessary equipment from your bike for reduced weight and ease of maintenance.
* 2. To get an accurate Air:Fuel (A/F) ratio when dynoing the bike. The air injection system pumps fresh air directly into the exhaust stream in order to burn off any unused fuel. Unfortunately by doing this the A/F ratio is thrown off by the extra "fresh air" in the exhaust stream. By removing the air injection system you can achieve an accurate A/F ratio.
 
#69 ·
You won't be able to properly tune the bike on a dyno or with an AutoTune module if you don't plug the AIS. You can save some weight by removing it as well.

Other than that it doesn't hurt or help to leave it or remove it.
 
#70 ·
hey great artical ,

quite in depth.

i have had some great results with the JB Pro, it is fully compatible with power commander PCIII and PCV maps as well has the option of using its own system. this is great because the JB Pro unit is a fair bit cheaper than PCII and the JB Pro can stall upto 10 maps which are interchangeable.

this is great has most of my customers have it fitted and mapped with a dry and wet map, it is also spot on for those inparticular that race in the superstock class as it conforms to the regs!

if anyone would like more info on the JB Pro or any other product be it dynojet or bazzar then dont hesitate to follow the link. I am happy to help!

ta

mick

geetechperformance


:jump
 
#72 ·
You don't have to. If you have a PowerCommander or Bazzaz unit I would leave it out. If you don't have a fuel controller and just put the header on, I would put it back in.
 
#73 ·
i am new to the sportsbike community. I have a 2003 r6, and i have a question that noone else has been able to answer point blank. My bike's exhaust was cut by the previous owner, all i have is the header pipe with a chrome tip welded on for my exhaust output. i notice that after about 20-30 minutes of riding my bike has hic-ups that are very noticeable and jerky. the bike only has 4400 miles on it. i had it serviced just to tune it up, but it is still doing the same thing. My guess is that with it having a K&N aftermarket air fiter and the (header only) exhaust, it may be running lean. My question is can i keep this setup, and add a power commander in order for the hic-ups to go away, or will i have to buy a full exhaust. I like the placement of the pipe by the right peg, and don't want a high mount. Will this make the bike run smoother, i get embarrassed when i sit in traffic, and all you hear are the rpms jumping from about 1000-1500 and back down, or being looked at like i dont know how to shift because the bike is shaky on take off. I just want a smooth ride all the way no matter how low the rpms. Please give advice, any would be helpful. Thank you.
 
#75 ·
i have the laptop hooked up now to calibrate the tps and now it works.....but i does go all the way to 100 instead of 98 is that bad also the voltage reading isnt steady. when the throttle is closed it reads .625 and drops to .622 rapidly is that ok? fully open it read 4.095 and rapidly drops to 4.093 is that ok?

its saying min volt is .617 and max is 4.100 sound right?


when i get out of daig mode it says the %throttle is at 4 and full throttle is 54? is it cause the bike isnt running?


also just loaded the MJS map and will have the autotune installed sometime this week just need the bung welded in.
 
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