If your changing the res because it’s too old, you definitely need to flush the fluid. ...........................
.............If the res[ervoir] looks brittle and faded and is a sign of distant past maintenance................
Regular, direct sun exposure, actually; both the fading and the cracks from a combination of the plastics degrading and thermal expansion/contraction.
BTW, avoid letting hot water touch any rubber. It will irrecoverably stretch the rubber topper used in that reservoir. Fortunately I had an extra.
Replaced cracked front master cylinder and bled the replacement quite a bit too well. (used velcro strap to force the lever while I cracked the bleed screws)
The lines are under so much pressure now, that the front wheel is a little hard to roll by hand and touching the lever begins to significantly slow the bike, before the brake switch is engaged to light up the rear. I'll have to go back and release some pressure from the system. I may be able to use paper or business cards as a spacer between pad and rotor.
As implied by others, unless you're a 300 pounder, the rear won't handle a lot before sliding. I've used more rear than normal (not to the point of sliding) to help balance out some of the tire wear... and also because I thought it would create less wear on the front pads. But I've seen now that the front pads last forever anyway so no point. The manual tells you to use some rear, but using more than designed/intended eats the pads for lunch. But they're cheap and quick/easy to swap. If you're not using organic pads for the rear, using too much rear will also chew through your rotor, necessitating early replacement. (and that isn't cheap or quick)
The forward most pad carrier for the rear caliper can also get damaged/worn/indented, keeping the pad from backing off like it should. That pad carrier is apart of the bracket support. (#10)
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Good to take a peek at that when doing a pad/rotor/caliper service.