Since this thread was unearthed...
To other folks, it is recommended that you *NEVER* exceed the combined amperage for that fuse. So if you're using an "Add A Circuit" type product, the combined amperage of the TWO fuses should never exceed the number of the original SINGLE fuse. So if that original single fuse was 10 Amp, to avoid overloading any connectors/wiring on that circuit, you could/should only use two 5 amps fuses.
I've tested one of these types of products before and it's a bad design in my opinion. I would expect that one of the slots would be the original fuse... for example let's say 15 Amp. Then the second slot would SLAVE off of the original. But that's not how these work. Both fuses are their own circuit. So adding another 5 amp fuse along with the original would potentially put 20 Amps over the original wire. This is really bad design! The added fuse should slave off of the original, in order to avoid the potential of overloading the circuit. Yes, it could potentially rob power from the original circuit and cause weird issues, but that's a hellova lot better than creating a hidden short, deep within the potentially tens of feet of wire harness bundles that many vehicles have.
- The polarity wasn't very clear on the outlet I purchased. Caught my first USB charger on fire. Didn't hurt the bike or the headlight fuse though!
- Weather proofing! Where will you put yours? I'm thinking as long at the outlet is facing DOWN then it'll probably be pretty weather proof if you put it out of the way.
- I would consider making your mount easy to access. When I take road trips I always carry a tire repair kit along with a small tire pump, and an outlet will come in handy in emergencies!
- You could also do the SAME thing by just wiring an outlet inline with our battery. As long as you have an inline fuse and a toggle switch.
- If you decide to mount your outlet under that cowl that covers the fuse box, I'm pretty sure they make quick release fairing fasteners... for easy access... just in case?
The tire repair kit and pump sounds like a good idea. But here are some things to consider...
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<<............The regulator per '08 manual is only 35 Amps, of which your headlights, tail lights and turn sigs are probably the biggest consumers. So if you have a bunch of electrical add-ons, such as a third-eye, radio (significant), heater (big consumer), quick-shift + servos, 12v outlet, USB power jacks, shift indicator (minor), ton of LED strips... that can all add up.>>
Bottom line, I doubt the voltage regulator, let alone the internal wiring, will have enough overhead to drive an air-pump without soon overheating and damaging the wiring/connectors/regulator. Electrically speaking, the *last* thing you want to have is to have some wire, hidden deep within a wire harness bundle, melt through its insulation and short with adjacent wires. That can be a time consuming and downright aggravating situation for most people to figure out.
Any pump in this motorcycle would need to be connected directly to the battery. Maxing out the regulator while it has no airflow and the engine idling is probably not good for it either, so the key would need to be off. Then the pump could drain the tiny battery... creating another issue. True the regulator will be maxed while charging the battery, but much of it will occur while the bike is moving, engine output at higher RPMs.
There are rather small, light weight Li-Ion packs, such as those from Rugged Geek, that are specifically designed to jump-start vehicles with weak batteries. (Note about Li-Ion in Cold Weather - To view links or images in this forum your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
) As long as you're monitoring voltage and not draining such a jump-start battery flat, (voiding the warranty in many cases,) the pump should be able to run off of one of those. That would be better.