Steering Dampers - Page 4 - Yamaha R6 Forum: YZF-R6 Forums
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post #31 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-17-2018, 09:30 AM
I eat my R6
 
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Re: Steering Dampers

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Originally Posted by TurboBlew View Post
again... your greeness is apparent. Yes the S1000RR is a nice bike.
Id bet you think the ABS, traction control, and launch control are worth something in regards to safety.
Outside of traction control... the other 2 require real skill and balls. No abs pump can compare.
Anyway... my 12yr old gsxr will accelerate away from an S1000RR like its parked. Like zero to 168 mph in 1320'. Thats a hand actuated clutch and foot shifted.
Comes across the scales at 460lbs wet. Makes nearly 3x the torque of an R6 at 1/2 the rpms...lol.
It was in the dry. The ABS didn't matter. It shouldn't be a contest when riding to see how powerful and raw a bike is compared to one with aids. People crash all the time on the track and street being so macho. I've launched hard at 10k RPM where I had just enough wheel slip. Around 95% throttle 5% clutch or less. I knew I could never replicate it again. So what if we race and I win. So what if you win? The amount of time it takes to actually setup such a race isn't worth it. What is worth it is racing hard to where we can race again. Not where you go down because you thought you were faster and tried to keep up but you couldn't safely.
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post #32 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-17-2018, 10:29 AM
Just made this great wheelie.. did you see it?!
 
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Re: Steering Dampers

Are we measuring dicks? Can I get in on this? Iím a Bomb Tech. Your turn!


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post #33 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-17-2018, 03:02 PM
Why yes I don't!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Re: Steering Dampers

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Originally Posted by Peanut_EOD View Post
Are we measuring dicks? Can I get in on this? I’m a Bomb Tech. Your turn!


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cant see any pics.
I was gona put some bad explosive pun in this post but it would have bombed
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Whats the bomb tech equivalent of a "steering dampener"??
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post #34 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-17-2018, 03:09 PM
Why yes I don't!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Originally Posted by AntDX316 View Post
It was in the dry. The ABS didn't matter. It shouldn't be a contest when riding to see how powerful and raw a bike is compared to one with aids. People crash all the time on the track and street being so macho. I've launched hard at 10k RPM where I had just enough wheel slip. Around 95% throttle 5% clutch or less. I knew I could never replicate it again. So what if we race and I win. So what if you win? The amount of time it takes to actually setup such a race isn't worth it. What is worth it is racing hard to where we can race again. Not where you go down because you thought you were faster and tried to keep up but you couldn't safely.
not sure what you are launching?
The key to launching any bike is at peak torque. Im sure there is
a near equivalent in modern electronics... however you still need a good clutch hand.
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post #35 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-17-2018, 03:46 PM
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Re: Steering Dampers

The limitation on launching any super sport is going to be the fear of up-ending it. The automated throttle nanny is going to eliminate that, thus allowing a less experienced rider to safely explore the lower end of its potential 0-60 times.
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post #36 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-23-2018, 07:22 AM
Why yes I don't!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Re: Steering Dampers

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The limitation on launching any super sport is going to be the fear of up-ending it. The automated throttle nanny is going to eliminate that, thus allowing a less experienced rider to safely explore the lower end of its potential 0-60 times.
interesting because I tried this with a couple of people that have "launch" aides. Aint no substitute for proper technique.
And by 60 times I hope you mean 60' and not 60mph. Cause 60 mph is a queer assed Road & Track stat that only non riding pedestrians quote. By the time even the most exotic cars are eclipsing 60 mph... a motorcycle would be accelerating well into triple digits.
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post #37 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-23-2018, 12:10 PM
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Re: Steering Dampers

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Originally Posted by TurboBlew View Post
not sure what you are launching?
The key to launching any bike is at peak torque. Im sure there is
a near equivalent in modern electronics... however you still need a good clutch hand.
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Dragging the clutch slightly is how to launch hard. I used to be scared of doing it thinking it would instantly loop the bike but it actually loops harder if I don't drag clutch at 10k RPM or higher.
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post #38 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-24-2018, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by AntDX316 View Post
Dragging the clutch slightly is how to launch hard. I used to be scared of doing it thinking it would instantly loop the bike but it actually loops harder if I don't drag clutch at 10k RPM or higher.
There is no dragging of nothing when you do it correctly. If you have lazy springs, worn clutch, or a sticky cable... then you are not applying the full force of peak torque.
There is also a weight transfer component.
If you are launching an R6... 10,000 rpms is kind of low.

Its really simple. You put the bike in gear, bring the RPMs up, situate your weight bias, and let the clutch lever fly. The sudden application of ~45 ft lbs to the drive train will lurch the bike forward you only disengage the clutch if your weight bias transfers incorrectly or the rear tire loses traction. Works the same if the bike makes 50ft lbs, or 65 ft lbs or 100 ft lbs of torque.
Well when you get above 85ft lbs the risk of failure on stock cast components is pretty high. Also if your bike has an extended wheelbase there are other nuances with a hand operated clutch.

Want to see how its done...watch a Supercross heat or main. Those guys are leaving in 2nd or 3rd gear because just the miliseconds it costs to engage a gear change and subsequent drive loss means the difference between 1st and 10th place into turn 1.
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post #39 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-26-2018, 05:57 PM
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Re: Steering Dampers

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Originally Posted by TurboBlew View Post
There is no dragging of nothing when you do it correctly. If you have lazy springs, worn clutch, or a sticky cable... then you are not applying the full force of peak torque.
There is also a weight transfer component.
If you are launching an R6... 10,000 rpms is kind of low.

Its really simple. You put the bike in gear, bring the RPMs up, situate your weight bias, and let the clutch lever fly. The sudden application of ~45 ft lbs to the drive train will lurch the bike forward you only disengage the clutch if your weight bias transfers incorrectly or the rear tire loses traction. Works the same if the bike makes 50ft lbs, or 65 ft lbs or 100 ft lbs of torque.
Well when you get above 85ft lbs the risk of failure on stock cast components is pretty high. Also if your bike has an extended wheelbase there are other nuances with a hand operated clutch.

Want to see how its done...watch a Supercross heat or main. Those guys are leaving in 2nd or 3rd gear because just the miliseconds it costs to engage a gear change and subsequent drive loss means the difference between 1st and 10th place into turn 1.
Yeah but then you risk damaging the chain and sprockets more. It's like if you go full brake from no brake, you can loop the bike. If you let it drag a bit you risk nothing. I'm on a 520 kit w/ aluminum rear sprocket. I know I should have gotten steel but at the time the price cost more so I've assumed it's better after I've read 'hardened' but then realize it's less integrity than steel.
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post #40 of 44 (permalink) Old 12-19-2018, 01:14 AM
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Re: Steering Dampers

Would you recommend the ohlins steering damper or GPR V4 for a predominantly track bike?
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